Passive Go Module Replacement Does Not Need Coded To Car.

RyanDavies · 07-21-2016, 01:19 PM

Just figured I'd post this, given that I had done a bunch of searching over the past week or so after water ruined a passive go module in the taillight area of the E82 (and seems that this is common).

Dash would go crazy during lateral load, likely water sloshing around and grounding out the circuit. Dried out, and the car worked fine with no craziness, but no passive go (door handle unlock/lock worked), oddly, the trunk would not open keyless either. Ordered up a replacement passive go module from eBay. Plug and play, although it did take a key cycle for it to turn on.

Downeaster1 · 07-21-2016, 01:58 PM

Technically, it does have to be programmed and coded. The module, if uncoded, may keep the vehicle awake and not allow other modules to be coded if the VIN doesn't match with the KOMBI and DSC control units. A good example of this would be the battery. When you replace the battery, you don't need to register it in order for it to work and the car to start. You need to register it to provide adequate charge information to other modules for correct draw, or risk significantly reducing the life of the battery or worse.

asbrr · 07-19-2017, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downeaster1

Technically, it does have to be programmed and coded. The module, if uncoded, may keep the vehicle awake and not allow other modules to be coded if the VIN doesn't match with the KOMBI and DSC control units. A good example of this would be the battery. When you replace the battery, you don't need to register it in order for it to work and the car to start. You need to register it to provide adequate charge information to other modules for correct draw, or risk significantly reducing the life of the battery or worse.

Waking up an old thread.

Thanks Downeaster1, I've been hit with the dreaded Passive Go module flooding issue also. Replacement unit from eBay is on the way, and have been thinking about this coding issue.

Can only the dealer do the coding procedure, or is it possible for anyone with one of the 3rd party coding apps to do this? Is there a specific set of steps or when "coding a module", it's only a single procedure being referenced and there's only one way to do it?

Thanks in advance.

Downeaster1 · 07-23-2017, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asbrr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downeaster1

Technically, it does have to be programmed and coded. The module, if uncoded, may keep the vehicle awake and not allow other modules to be coded if the VIN doesn't match with the KOMBI and DSC control units. A good example of this would be the battery. When you replace the battery, you don't need to register it in order for it to work and the car to start. You need to register it to provide adequate charge information to other modules for correct draw, or risk significantly reducing the life of the battery or worse.

Waking up an old thread.

Thanks Downeaster1, I've been hit with the dreaded Passive Go module flooding issue also. Replacement unit from eBay is on the way, and have been thinking about this coding issue.

Can only the dealer do the coding procedure, or is it possible for anyone with one of the 3rd party coding apps to do this? Is there a specific set of steps or when "coding a module", it's only a single procedure being referenced and there's only one way to do it?

Thanks in advance.

You?ll need someone with either the factory ISTA/P or an Autologic table to code them correctly.

asbrr · 08-14-2017, 09:24 AM

UPDATE: did the module swap, worked fine, now on the hunt for someone to do coding or worst case go to the dealer....

jefftodd · 03-30-2018, 03:09 PM

Second whoever said it doesn't need to be coded. Replaced mine with one from ebay used, same #s, plug and play. Simple enough remove "carpet" from right side rear trunk area several push pins and mesh cargo holder ,then support bracket. There it is in foam "bracket". Mine was covered in dark sticky stuff, prob dried coke. No cooler in trunk, dang cargo thing looks like a grate spot.

mzollo93 · 06-15-2018, 12:11 PM

I just did the same and still nothing from the system works- where should I look into next? or am I a rare case of it needs to be coded

MONEY · 01-25-2019, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jefftodd

Second whoever said it doesn't need to be coded. Replaced mine with one from ebay used, same #s, plug and play. Simple enough remove "carpet" from right side rear trunk area several push pins and mesh cargo holder ,then support bracket. There it is in foam "bracket". Mine was covered in dark sticky stuff, prob dried coke. No cooler in trunk, dang cargo thing looks like a grate spot.

Hi Guys,

This has happened to me, there is a ton of water inside the wheel well and I am not sure what to do next? Is there a "How to" on resolving this? What parts to purchase etc?

Any help will be greatly appreciated, and I look forward to hearing from you.

falconer · 01-26-2019, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MONEY

Quote:

Originally Posted by jefftodd

Second whoever said it doesn't need to be coded. Replaced mine with one from ebay used, same #s, plug and play. Simple enough remove "carpet" from right side rear trunk area several push pins and mesh cargo holder ,then support bracket. There it is in foam "bracket". Mine was covered in dark sticky stuff, prob dried coke. No cooler in trunk, dang cargo thing looks like a grate spot.

Hi Guys,

This has happened to me, there is a ton of water inside the wheel well and I am not sure what to do next? Is there a "How to" on resolving this? What parts to purchase etc?

Any help will be greatly appreciated, and I look forward to hearing from you.

I had the same issue with the module sitting in water. I ordered a used one off eBay, found fuse 61 was blown so I replaced it. Disconnected both door handles and reconnected it all back up and it's working now.

LuisBoston · 05-21-2023, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by falconer

I had the same issue with the module sitting in water. I ordered a used one off eBay, found fuse 61 was blown so I replaced it. Disconnected both door handles and reconnected it all back up and it's working now.

Thanks to those who came before me…

After experiencing the same symptoms (keyless ignition, proximity key trunk release not working, but keyless door handles still work), I decided to check my Passive Go module. The well where it sits in styrofoam was soaked, and the bottom of the module shows signs of corrosion.

I’ll be replacing the module, but does anyone know how to keep the water out? What’s causing water to get in there?

LuisBoston · 05-21-2023, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by falconer

I had the same issue with the module sitting in water. I ordered a used one off eBay, found fuse 61 was blown so I replaced it. Disconnected both door handles and reconnected it all back up and it's working now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by falconer

I had the same issue with the module sitting in water. I ordered a used one off eBay, found fuse 61 was blown so I replaced it. Disconnected both door handles and reconnected it all back up and it's working now.

Thanks to those who came before me…

After experiencing the same symptoms (keyless ignition, proximity key trunk release not working, but keyless door handles still work), I decided to check my Passive Go module. The well where it sits in styrofoam was soaked, and the bottom of the module shows signs of corrosion.

I’ll be replacing the module, but does anyone know how to keep the water out? What’s causing water to get in there?

Lucky1 · 08-13-2023, 07:54 AM

Same question here. Went 15 years before this became an issue. Has something “given way” (like a gasket?) over time to allow this water in? And how do we prevent it?

cerealwars · 01-04-2024, 01:51 PM

I can't speak from experience, but seems a simple way to check would be to hit the area with a garden hose/pressure washer and check for water ingress by looking through the rear seat opening with a flash light. Tail light gaskets are one place to look, and the entire trunk seal is the other big one.

07-21-2016, 01:19 PM	#1
RyanDavies Lieutenant 63 Rep 448 Posts Drives: 2012 128i MSport Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Washington, DC iTrader: (2)	Passive Go Module Replacement Does Not Need Coded To Car. Just figured I'd post this, given that I had done a bunch of searching over the past week or so after water ruined a passive go module in the taillight area of the E82 (and seems that this is common). Dash would go crazy during lateral load, likely water sloshing around and grounding out the circuit. Dried out, and the car worked fine with no craziness, but no passive go (door handle unlock/lock worked), oddly, the trunk would not open keyless either. Ordered up a replacement passive go module from eBay. Plug and play, although it did take a key cycle for it to turn on.
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07-21-2016, 01:58 PM	#2
Downeaster1 BMW Master Tech 587 Rep 850 Posts Drives: E30, E36, E82, E90, F10, F80 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: SoCal iTrader: (0) Garage List 2015 Aston Martin V ... [0.00] 2010 Lamborghini LP ... [0.00] 1985 Alpina C2 2.7 [0.00] 2017 BMW M3 [0.00] 2008 BMW 128i [10.00] 2013 BMW 135is [0.00] 1992 BMW 325i [0.00]	Technically, it does have to be programmed and coded. The module, if uncoded, may keep the vehicle awake and not allow other modules to be coded if the VIN doesn't match with the KOMBI and DSC control units. A good example of this would be the battery. When you replace the battery, you don't need to register it in order for it to work and the car to start. You need to register it to provide adequate charge information to other modules for correct draw, or risk significantly reducing the life of the battery or worse. __________________ 135is #502 of 586 BMW LED Performance Wheel \| OEM FULL Carbon Fiber \| E9X M3 Gauge Cluster \| E9X Exterior Mirrors \| E9X M3 Full Suspension \| E9X M3 Diff \| PT-CAN2 Enabled \| Bilstiens \| Michelin PSS's \| NBT Navigation Retrofit with Touch Pad
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08-14-2017, 09:24 AM	#5
asbrr Major 542 Rep 1,233 Posts Drives: 2014 335ix M-Sport Join Date: May 2015 Location: Toronto iTrader: (1)	UPDATE: did the module swap, worked fine, now on the hunt for someone to do coding or worst case go to the dealer....
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03-30-2018, 03:09 PM	#6
jefftodd New Member 0 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2009E88 Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: SouthCarolina iTrader: (0)	passive go module fixed key issues E88-09 Second whoever said it doesn't need to be coded. Replaced mine with one from ebay used, same #s, plug and play. Simple enough remove "carpet" from right side rear trunk area several push pins and mesh cargo holder ,then support bracket. There it is in foam "bracket". Mine was covered in dark sticky stuff, prob dried coke. No cooler in trunk, dang cargo thing looks like a grate spot.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-15-2018, 12:11 PM	#7
mzollo93 New Member 0 Rep 5 Posts Drives: 128i Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: texas iTrader: (0)	I just did the same and still nothing from the system works- where should I look into next? or am I a rare case of it needs to be coded
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08-13-2023, 07:54 AM	#12
Lucky1 Colonel 647 Rep 2,051 Posts Drives: '08 128i Coupe SGM 6MT Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0) Garage List 2015 Porsche 911 Ca ... [0.00] 2008 128i Coupe [0.00] 2006 Z4 M Roadster [0.00]	Same question here. Went 15 years before this became an issue. Has something “given way” (like a gasket?) over time to allow this water in? And how do we prevent it?
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01-04-2024, 01:51 PM	#13
cerealwars Riffraff 78 Rep 84 Posts Drives: 128i 6M, 1UZ S13, '62 C10 Join Date: Apr 2023 Location: Detroit Metro Outskirts iTrader: (0) Garage List 2010 BMW 128i [0.00]	I can't speak from experience, but seems a simple way to check would be to hit the area with a garden hose/pressure washer and check for water ingress by looking through the rear seat opening with a flash light. Tail light gaskets are one place to look, and the entire trunk seal is the other big one.
	Appreciate 0 Quote