Mightymousetech installs Ohlins

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by ornicar

Correct with 1M or M2 wheel bearing you have the benefits of the pin.

The wheel bearing offset is the same between F8x and our cars e8x e9x

the 14mm wheel bolt is an amelioration compares to the 12mm. Stronger. 140N.m / 120N.m wheel torque.

Some tuners sell it as a track kit upgrade.

The important thing you have to understand is that with f8x knuckles your caliper will be offsetting +11mm outside and +R5 (radius + 5mm) so check if you ill have enough clearance to fit your wheels without wheel spacers.

attached the caliper spacers i used

If I am only converting the front, would be weird having 14mm bolts on the front and 12mm on the rear. Car won't be driven on track, so don't really see any benefit to switching to 14mm threads.

I am hoping the caliper bracket from Hydra Performance will negate that.
Pics from ShocknAwe

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

The ecs floating 2pc CSL rotors I used are direct fit to the nonM hubs. One of the reasons I used them.

I may switch to the M hubs eventually but why replace them if theyre in good shape on a mostly street driven car.

You are able to use the rotor screw with the ECS version?

I am planning on getting the RB rear brake rotors anyways, as they are the only two piece rotor that still uses the parking brake, as far as I can find. So would be nice to match the front and rear rotor brands.

It's only money. LOL

I also read through your entire build thread, big thank you BTW!

Just curious, it was not mentioned there, what final front camber did you end up at? I might have to run the +30 camber correcting knuckle to maintain my -2.2 or so.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

You are able to use the rotor screw with the ECS version?

I am planning on getting the RB rear brake rotors anyways, as they are the only two piece rotor that still uses the parking brake, as far as I can find. So would be nice to match the front and rear rotor brands.

It's only money. LOL

I also read through your entire build thread, big thank you BTW!

Just curious, it was not mentioned there, what final front camber did you end up at? I might have to run the +30 camber correcting knuckle to maintain my -2.2 or so.

I'm actually not sure where I am with camber. Looks like -2.5 but y'know.

Ecs sells rotor screws that fit as a kit with the rotors.

Need to sell someone my nonM RB 2 piece front kit.

[MightyMouseTech]

Crap! Wish I had one of my wheels here at work.

[2008e92328i]

I like your taste in cars. Out of the four pictured, which one is your favourite?
Also, how do you like ohlins?

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by 2008e92328i

I like your taste in cars. Out of the four pictured, which one is your favourite?
Also, how do you like ohlins?

Still trying to figure out exactly what I am going to do about the Ohlins. For now, looks like I am going to install the new 1M specific kit, and go with the M2 front knuckles, E46 M3 CSL rotors and the Hydra brackets, stock 1M upper mounts with Dinan camber plates. In the rear will install the 1M lower camber arms. My 1M suspension will be nearly complete. Still need to find out if the M2 knuckles add any additional camber or if I have to go with the +30 minute camber correction version. I have enough camber at -2.33.

Only the 1er is my own car, although I have driven all of the cars in the pic. I honestly find the R8 (manual V10) a little too civilized and not very entertaining. It is too capable any anything even remotely street legal. The Type R is also very fun, it is like it is hardwired directly into your brain, soooooo much fun. Not very comfy for day to day driving though. I find the 1er the best combination of fun and day to day civility. It has a bit of lunacy about it, there is a twinkle in its eye that it will catch you out if you misstep at any point. That is what makes it exciting.

There is a reason I drive a 1er, when I could have any of the vehicles pictured.

[2008e92328i]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Still trying to figure out exactly what I am going to do about the Ohlins. For now, looks like I am going to install the new 1M specific kit, and go with the M2 front knuckles, E46 M3 CSL rotors and the Hydra brackets, stock 1M upper mounts with Dinan camber plates. In the rear will install the 1M lower camber arms. My 1M suspension will be nearly complete. Still need to find out if the M2 knuckles add any additional camber or if I have to go with the +30 minute camber correction version. I have enough camber at -2.33.

Only the 1er is my own car, although I have driven all of the cars in the pic. I honestly find the R8 (manual V10) a little too civilized and not very entertaining. It is too capable any anything even remotely street legal. The Type R is also very fun, it is like it is hardwired directly into your brain, soooooo much fun. Not very comfy for day to day driving though. I find the 1er the best combination of fun and day to day civility. It has a bit of lunacy about it, there is a twinkle in its eye that it will catch you out if you misstep at any point. That is what makes it exciting.

There is a reason I drive a 1er, when I could have any of the vehicles pictured.

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Still trying to figure out exactly what I am going to do about the Ohlins. For now, looks like I am going to install the new 1M specific kit, and go with the M2 front knuckles, E46 M3 CSL rotors and the Hydra brackets, stock 1M upper mounts with Dinan camber plates. In the rear will install the 1M lower camber arms. My 1M suspension will be nearly complete. Still need to find out if the M2 knuckles add any additional camber or if I have to go with the +30 minute camber correction version. I have enough camber at -2.33.

Only the 1er is my own car, although I have driven all of the cars in the pic. I honestly find the R8 (manual V10) a little too civilized and not very entertaining. It is too capable any anything even remotely street legal. The Type R is also very fun, it is like it is hardwired directly into your brain, soooooo much fun. Not very comfy for day to day driving though. I find the 1er the best combination of fun and day to day civility. It has a bit of lunacy about it, there is a twinkle in its eye that it will catch you out if you misstep at any point. That is what makes it exciting.

There is a reason I drive a 1er, when I could have any of the vehicles pictured.

Looking forward to a review after you are done with everything!

[MightyMouseTech]

Well, an email has been sent to Hydra Performance to order the caliper brackets.

Looks like I am going to make the plunge and convert the front to M2 knuckles so I can run the new 1M specific front and rear dampers.

Going to have to look into exactly which M2 front knuckles I should install. Either the standard knuckle, or the +30 minute camber correcting knuckle. I will be installing the stock 1M upper mounts with the 1M Dinan camber plates. I already have the 1M front lower wishbone and thrust rods. I don't want to increase camber any further, so may be going with the +30 minute camber correcting swivel bearings. In my email to Hydra I asked if the swivel bearings increased camber, hopefully they have an idea if it changes at all with this mod.

Also have to decide on spring rates. Want to keep it on the soft side. This will not be a track car.

[MightyMouseTech]

Well, lucky for me we have an F8X M3 in the shop with a damaged swivel bearing.

I did a quick measurement of the distance from the mounting face for the bearing and the hole for the lower wishbone.

Looks like it is 68.6mm.

Now need to find a 135i swivel bearing and make the same measurement. This should tell me if it has any affect on camber.

Anybody have an E82 swivel bearing kicking around?

fe1rx ShocknAwe

[fe1rx]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Well, lucky for me we have an F8X M3 in the shop with a damaged swivel bearing.

I did a quick measurement of the distance from the mounting face for the bearing and the hole for the lower wishbone.

Looks like it is 68.6mm.

Now need to find a 135i swivel bearing and make the same measurement. This should tell me if it has any affect on camber.

Anybody have an E82 swivel bearing kicking around?

fe1rx ShocknAwe

Not exactly, but from my measurements of the front strut geometry, I suspect they are quite different. I measured to the ball joint centre, which should be a bigger distance than what you measured (if the geometry was the same), and I got 60.4 mm from the bearing mounting face.



By the way, why not use the 1M / M3 version of this?

Also, do you need a puller to get the strut out of the knuckle, given that the bottom part is not split? If so, can you share an image of what the puller looks like?

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by fe1rx

Not exactly, but from my measurements of the front strut geometry, I suspect they are quite different. I measured to the ball joint centre, which should be a bigger distance than what you measured (if the geometry was the same), and I got 60.4 mm from the bearing mounting face.

By the way, why not use the 1M / M3 version of this?

Also, do you need a puller to get the strut out of the knuckle, given that the bottom part is not split? If so, can you share an image of what the puller looks like?

There is no special tool required for removal, you just spread open the top portion like doing a normal strut. There is a special tool required for installation however. It grabs the pin on the bottom of the strut and pulls it down into the knuckle. Attached the best pic I could find for it.

In your measurements, that is to the ball joint center. The stud on the ball joint is at quite the angle, I will have to install a joint in the knuckle and repeat the measurement. I believe that will greatly reduce the measurement. I think the F87/F8X will be much closer to the stock 135i knuckle measuring it that way.

As for the why, I would like to keep my stock brake calipers. I wish somebody made an adapter bracket to use the 135i calipers with the 1M/M3 knuckle with some kind of brake rotor. That would make life much simpler. As of now, the only brake adapter I know of is from Hydra Performance which have made it to work with an F87/F8X knuckle. The adapter is posted above by Shocknawe.

Edit:
Hmmm, maybe it is possible to use the 1M/M3 knuckle and use the stock 135i caliper?!?

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1525998

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by fe1rx

Not exactly, but from my measurements of the front strut geometry, I suspect they are quite different. I measured to the ball joint centre, which should be a bigger distance than what you measured (if the geometry was the same), and I got 60.4 mm from the bearing mounting face.

Attachment 2527206

By the way, why not use the 1M / M3 version of this?

Also, do you need a puller to get the strut out of the knuckle, given that the bottom part is not split? If so, can you share an image of what the puller looks like?

this is the puller for OEM Shocks absorber.

[Biginboca]

FYI maybe this is helpful here... I just swapped F80 M3 front knuckle and hub onto my e92 328i and gained camber from -1.7 to -2.4.

(I previously had the -1.7 with e92m3 LCA and Tension strut, plus elongating the strut mounts 1/4”. I never removed the control arms or strut during the swap so that gain was all from the F80 knuckle).

Looking at the knuckles (e8x e9x series) side by side to the F8X there is an obvious difference in the angle the strut enters the knuckle while the mounting points all appeared identical to me.



For brakes I am running F30 340mm front caliper with a e9x 335 348mm rotor. To make this work I had to shave 6mm thickness off the caliper mounts on the spindle. Then run a 5mm wheel spacer (open the wheel spacer ID to 79.00mm from 72.56mm) behind the rotor and a 79mm/72.56mm hub ring for the rotor to seat properly centered. And shave a few mm off the brake pads at the ID section of the rotor and run a 20mm long rotor screw. I also pressed the 3 pins on the F8X hub about 2mm deeper so they didn’t stick out past the 5mm rotor spacer I made. Everything works great and I’m thrilled with the added camber but I wasn’t expecting it lol

Wheel spacer and hub ring (I have 2 extra hub rings in case anyone wants to go this route I’d be happy to send them along at no charge.)



Brake pads before shave:



After shave, which took literally 3 mins on belt sander:

[ShocknAwe]

Not sure I understand. You have two choices when using a M upright/knuckle/swivel bearing. Either use a M damper, or use a sleeve on a nonM damper. But with M Ohlins dampers you get independent height adjustability allowing you to run neutral preload.

No puller necessary, I just adjusted my front ride height and it dropped in and out seamlessly.

[MightyMouseTech]

@Biginboca

Thank you! That is very valuable info. So using the F87/F8X knuckle increases camber 0.7 degrees. So even using the +30 minute (0.5 degree) camber correcting version will still increase camber 0.2 degrees, by pushing the bottom of the wheel out. Not ideal.

Will look into using the 1M/M3 knuckle and try and figure out how to fit the 135i brakes to it. May just order in a new knuckle and see what's what.

[ShocknAwe]

Oh hell no last thing I would want to do is reduce outboard clearance more by pushing the bottom out further.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Oh hell no last thing I would want to do is reduce outboard clearance more by pushing the bottom out further.

Is the front fitment tighter on e82 vs e92? I’m running a 18x9 et 30 (now effectively ET25) with a 245/35r18 and have zero rub, albeit I have -2.4 camber now also. I could definitely run a 255 on a 9” wide rim with a et35 now if I wanted to.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Is the front fitment tighter on e82 vs e92? I'm running a 18x9 et 30 (now effectively ET25) with a 245/35r18 and have zero rub, albeit I have -2.4 camber now also. I could definitely run a 255 on a 9" wide rim with a et35 now if I wanted to.

The E82 is mechanically an E90 with a smaller body. Significantly less room for tires. The widest you can go in front without fender mods is 245, and even to do that you have to increase camber with a camber plate of some kind. Adding the M3 lower arm to increase the camber actually reduces fender clearance slightly.

[SKI-R]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

The E82 is mechanically an E90 with a smaller body. Significantly less room for tires. The widest you can go in front without fender mods is 245, and even to do that you have to increase camber with a camber plate of some kind. Adding the M3 lower arm to increase the camber actually reduces fender clearance slightly.

For factual purposes- strictly speaking, up front 255 CAN be done without fender mods or rub, less than ideal for daily purposes.....autocross focussed. I never tried the M3 arms because of the reduction in clearance.

[cwlo]

By the way, I am running the F80 upright with the front Brembo F30 brakes. I found a Range Rover rotor that has the exact specs to make this setup work, so no additional work is required. Rotor from a 2006-2009 LR3 or Range Rover Sport.

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by cwlo

By the way, I am running the F80 upright with the front Brembo F30 brakes. I found a Range Rover rotor that has the exact specs to make this setup work, so no additional work is required. Rotor from a 2006-2009 LR3 or Range Rover Sport.

Great information! do you have the Part number of this brake disc please?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by cwlo

By the way, I am running the F80 upright with the front Brembo F30 brakes. I found a Range Rover rotor that has the exact specs to make this setup work, so no additional work is required. Rotor from a 2006-2009 LR3 or Range Rover Sport.

Are you taking about the rear LR3 rotor? That’s the only one I’m seeing as 13.78” (350mm) and it’s a one piece so looks pretty heavy. Also aren’t those rotors only 20mm thick when new? The F30 Brembo calipers are made for a 30mm thick rotor you might not have enough piston length to run that rotor as the pads wear down.

If the specs I found on google are correct then that rotor is a poor choice as an upgrade for our cars and you have likely not improved and maybe lowered your braking ability/capacity.