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      07-11-2017, 06:17 PM   #89
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I feel for you buddy. Just switched over to imgur about 6 months ago from Google photos because I was having hosting issues across multiple automotive forums. Reuploading and editing posts, especially for something picture heavy like a build thread, was absolutely maddening.
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      08-02-2017, 10:12 AM   #90
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Finally got all the pictures (I think) uploaded to imgur. Will be starting the replacement of photos in the build thread. What a PITA.

Front page restored. Gotta figure out how to resize those pictures to a reasonable dimension.

All pages restored.
  • TCK Coilover install, rear end upgrade, oil filter housing repair, photos and summary coming in the next couple days.
  • Suspension repair, short shift kit, and spring/camber plate upgrade next on the work docket.
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      08-02-2017, 01:05 PM   #91
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On another note, changed out the transmission fluid with fresh Redline MTL yesterday afternoon. If you're over 30k past the last change, CHANGE THAT FLUID GUYS! I had been dealing with some really horrendous (1st world problems) gear behavior. Nothing broken, but sticky/notchy and sometimes wouldn't want to slot into gear properly. New fluid, no complaints other than a worn shifter assembly, which will be fixed soon.

Change that fluid!
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      08-02-2017, 07:41 PM   #92
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TC Kline Racing Single Adjustable Coilovers.

So I did this a while back. Quite a while back actually. I've had some problems with the rear dampers, but I'm still convinced it's a good kit. More on that later, let's take a look.

I previously had Bilstein B6 (HD) dampers and Swift Spec R springs. I am still to this day a fan of that setup. So why switch? I really wanted the ability to set my ride height and achieve a relatively light weight suspension setup, but NOT have to spend a lot of money to do it. Additionally, I wanted a set of coilovers which I could switch to Swift springs without any necessary adapters or additional money.

I talked to TC out at the main Ohio shop and we settled on 350lbs front and 600lbs rear for my usage. Daily duty with light performance driving fit the bill for those specs well. I called up Dinan and they sourced me the 12mm sleeves for my rear shock mounts, and I was off to my garage to do the install. I think it took me ~10 hours to install in total. Would have had it done very quickly, but one of the front dampers had excess paint on it. Believe it or not, it wouldn't fit the spindle without refinishing.

So out came the old parts. All old mounts came out too.



Bent end links. Luckily I was replacing them:



Found this nice little asshole present. Man I hate the roads here. One of the reasons I wanted a suspension I could customize the ride height easily with.



New parts!



So let's do the front first.




I strongly recommend a Schwaben spindle spreader. Between this and my big ass pry bars I was able to get the spindles open. Like I said before, one of the dampers had too much paint on it. What a PITA.





Put together this little combo to tighten the top hat nut. Worked like a champ.





All together with new HPA endlinks:



First shot at mounting the wheel didn't leave me enough clearance.. so I cleaned up the hub, and slipped on a 3mm spacer. Ended up being about enough for 2 pieces of paper. Small amount of anti-seize on the hub surface. I know some folks don't like doing this, but after having my wheels bind to the hub, I don't care, don't tell me what to do!












NOW ON TO THE REAR

The TC rear height adjusters are really nice heavy units. Greased them up with some anti-seize and they went right into the old upper spring cup mount point.





Here's the rear shock mount sleeves. 10mm vs 12mm Dinan. Use the correct parts folks.





After talking with other folks having issues with fitting the rear dampers through the body with the dinan mounts, I checked to make sure it fit on the shaft alone. So far so good.



Test fit!



Now here's one thing I really don't like. There's no lower spring isolator. The spring just sits in the lower camber link. After living with these coilovers for a couple years at this point, I can say I DO notice it. I talked with Fe1rx, and he supplied me a solution. That's coming soon!

Here's the spring and damper back in.



Buttoned up. Plenty of thread space. Maybe an issue with 1M/M3 dampers on the HPA M-type lower camber link? Perhaps. I guess I'll find out when I replace dampers.



Done!





Impressions

This kit really is fantastic. For the money, I don't think it can be beat. I had some issues with my kit and QC, but that's fine. It all went in at the end of the day. I had my alignment specs set to the same as I had with the old suspension. Even with an increase of over 100lbs on each corner, bump control is vastly improved, comfort is up, less bump steer, less overall BOUNCINESS, good god. And less rattles. We all like less rattles.

Other good things? Steering feedback and turn in is improved. I can't wait to put on my TC camber plates to really evaluate this. We'll see.

Things I don't like? I'm not sure if it's a problem with my kit but I've had a sagged spring in the rear, and the lower mount bolt threads stripped on both rear dampers. One of them I take credit for, must have cross threaded the nut when I put it on. Was hasty and at the end of the install, too tired, and not paying attention. The other was courtesy of my BMW dealer after they fixed a really badly broken bolt in my suspension that I couldn't get out. Car won't ever be going back there. I'll gladly eat the couple hundred from my own pocket for a new damper than EVER set foot in that crapshoot again. But, still, both? Do Koni dampers have soft threads? I've never had a problem like this before with any other damper manufacturer on any car. Very strange. I currently have my old Bilstein dampers back there while I figure out a solution. To be completely honest, other than a harsher and faster bump response from the high pressure gas monotube, they feel pretty similar.

As always, any questions, fire away.

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      08-03-2017, 09:49 AM   #93
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Pictures resized and fixed. Think I got all the links. If you see some that don't work, please let me know!
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      08-05-2017, 10:07 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Pictures resized and fixed. Think I got all the links. If you see some that don't work, please let me know!
Good work and dedication!!!
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      08-05-2017, 11:34 AM   #95
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Nice updates.

You contact TC about the rear shocks? Oddly enough I had issues with the stud on one of my B8s. The stud broke off. I drove over to bilstein and they replaced it. They said it usually happens when the nut is over torqued. Of course the one time I didn't use my torque wrench it broke, but I knew the torque was really low on that nut so I do think the stud was defective.
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      08-05-2017, 04:31 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Nice updates.

You contact TC about the rear shocks? Oddly enough I had issues with the stud on one of my B8s. The stud broke off. I drove over to bilstein and they replaced it. They said it usually happens when the nut is over torqued. Of course the one time I didn't use my torque wrench it broke, but I knew the torque was really low on that nut so I do think the stud was defective.
I'm going to call him and see if he can do anything for me. As it is, I think I want to switch to the M3 type lower camber link and run the M3 rear dampers. So maybe he'll be willing to discount that in exchange for me sending these back. We'll see.

So that I understand you properly, what do you mean by the "stud"?
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      08-05-2017, 04:49 PM   #97
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Started the detail process. Washed and clayed. Compound and polish is tomorrow. Need to do some rock chip and road rash repair too.

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      08-05-2017, 05:19 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
I'm going to call him and see if he can do anything for me. As it is, I think I want to switch to the M3 type lower camber link and run the M3 rear dampers. So maybe he'll be willing to discount that in exchange for me sending these back. We'll see.

So that I understand you properly, what do you mean by the "stud"?
Sorry. I was referring to the threaded part at the bottom the shock that goes through the mount on the lower camber arm.

If you go to the m3 arm, my recommendation would be to go to the dual action rear shock. I initially wanted to run the SA, but the threads were too short at the top of the shock and didn't stick out enough to get the nit on. I have many pictures if you want to see.

The dual action has much more threads at the top. They are awesome as well.
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      08-05-2017, 05:30 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Sorry. I was referring to the threaded part at the bottom the shock that goes through the mount on the lower camber arm.

If you go to the m3 arm, my recommendation would be to go to the dual action rear shock. I initially wanted to run the SA, but the threads were too short at the top of the shock and didn't stick out enough to get the nit on. I have many pictures if you want to see.

The dual action has much more threads at the top. They are awesome as well.
Ah. Yeah, thanks for clarifying.

That was my thought yes, to do the M3 D/A dampers in the rear. I remember your pictures of the lack of threads on the SA dampers, we even compared thread length when I was installing these coilovers way back.
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      08-05-2017, 07:36 PM   #100
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I admire the dedication Shocknawe! Hey if you don't mind, I have a question. A general one actually. You mentioned rattles on one post above and was wondering, is that a normal thing with coilovers on the 1er? Might not be an apples to apples comparison, but I have Öhlins R&T with the Swifts up front for clearance, Dinan fixed plates and M3 front control arms. Might be missing something else but with this current setup, on the roads i drive on, the rattling upfront annoys the hell out of me. Made me think that something might be loose under there. Did a visual without the front wheels last night but nothing looked amiss. I know that was a mouthful and sorry if this is jacking your build thread. I just don't know where the rattling js coming from. PM me if that is better. Thank you in advance!
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      08-06-2017, 12:40 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black View Post
I admire the dedication Shocknawe! Hey if you don't mind, I have a question. A general one actually. You mentioned rattles on one post above and was wondering, is that a normal thing with coilovers on the 1er? Might not be an apples to apples comparison, but I have Öhlins R&T with the Swifts up front for clearance, Dinan fixed plates and M3 front control arms. Might be missing something else but with this current setup, on the roads i drive on, the rattling upfront annoys the hell out of me. Made me think that something might be loose under there. Did a visual without the front wheels last night but nothing looked amiss. I know that was a mouthful and sorry if this is jacking your build thread. I just don't know where the rattling js coming from. PM me if that is better. Thank you in advance!
I don't experience any rattles with my coilovers (yet).
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      08-06-2017, 01:35 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black View Post
I admire the dedication Shocknawe! Hey if you don't mind, I have a question. A general one actually. You mentioned rattles on one post above and was wondering, is that a normal thing with coilovers on the 1er? Might not be an apples to apples comparison, but I have Öhlins R&T with the Swifts up front for clearance, Dinan fixed plates and M3 front control arms. Might be missing something else but with this current setup, on the roads i drive on, the rattling upfront annoys the hell out of me. Made me think that something might be loose under there. Did a visual without the front wheels last night but nothing looked amiss. I know that was a mouthful and sorry if this is jacking your build thread. I just don't know where the rattling js coming from. PM me if that is better. Thank you in advance!
I have never had rattling from my suspension directly. What I have had is rattles from my sunroof, pillar paneling, etc due to suspension harshness. With the TC coils those rattles were reduced.

Hope that helps!
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      08-15-2017, 10:21 AM   #103
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Burger Tuning SSK

The BMS Short Shift Kit is made by Shiftek. I picked up the E series N54 version from another member. I don't usually buy used parts from persons unknown, but I couldn't pass up this deal. Glad I took the chance, the part was in good condition.

I found the install to be a bit of a PITA. Not difficult by any means, but really tight space. In particular, the rubber seal boot on the shift arm itself was a huge pain to get out, and then back in again.

Order of operation was the following:
1. remove knob and shift boot
2. remove huge foam insulation, then smaller foam cutout beneath
3. remove rubber boot (PITA). I found the best way to do it was to peel up the neck, and pull it off backwards. It's really stuck on there.
4. get under car and remove triangular pan (8mm screws)
5. remove 10mm nuts and bend back heat shield
6. remove c-clip on stock shift lever, slide linkage pin out of bearing
7. Use needle nose pliers to rotate bushing on shifter 90*, it only rotates one way, go gently
8. Pull out stock shifter!
9. Replace with new SSK, attach with small hex screws. I had a small set torx, luckily had a T10 torx key which fit in the small space well. If you don't have those, I would recommend using a saw to cut an allen key. My shifter was gently used, and preassembled from the previous owner, but there are a few clips and springs to assemble between the carrier and shifter if not. It's all super tight!
10. Reverse the rest.

Here are the pictures.

Stock shifter.



BMS SSK installed. Important to orient the bend in the same direction as stock, towards you!


The small hex screws are between the metal carrier body and the center console frame. Super tight space in there. As I said above, luckily I had a small torx key that fit. Many folks cut an allen key. Glad I didn't have to ruin one of my allen keys. I fit the screws on the right in by hand from the cabin. The screws on the left I had to fit from below the car, and blindly. Not a big deal, just time consuming.

Rubber boot back in. This thing is evil.



Foam insulation back in. The upper block is really deceptively large. The plastic clip you see on top is scavenged from the original BMW shift boot. I use it in this orientation to make my Redline Goods shift boot fit well.



Shift boot and knob reinstalled




Impressions


I love this shift kit. The larger hex screw seen on the shifter shaft allows the knob height to be adjusted up and down, as well as allowing the knob itself to be rotated to suit the drivers hand. I adjusted mine all the way down, and rotated the knob a tiny bit clockwise. Seems to fit my hand and arm position much better now.

Now, this does not fit as perfectly as the OE BMW shift kits. The shift knob is now oriented slightly away from me (read, towards the passenger) when in neutral. Additionally, I need to source a teflon washer for the linkage pin. The new SSK bushings aren't as wide as the OE bushing. This translates to slight play when shifting into 5th and 6th. It's worth noting that this "play" is still tighter and precise than my stock shifter was, but I suspect that's because my stock shifter was worn out.

The knob being oriented a little away from me is definitely different. It does put the 1-2-3-4 shifts in almost a straight line, which I really like. The gates for 5 & 6 now feel a little far away, but I'm already getting used to it, and my arm is in a generally better position for driving. I'm still not sure how I definitively feel about the change, but so far it's growing on me.

Overall, it's a huge win. With the combination of a (1cm?) lower knob, ~30% shorter throw, and increased rigidity thanks to the coil sprung metal ball jointed shifter, my gear throws finally feel SOMEWHAT reminiscent of those from my old Honda 6MT. Still not as good though. Maybe the billet shift rod will get me to that smooth rifle bolt action I've been pining after.
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      08-16-2017, 03:04 PM   #104
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Front Swift coilover spring upgrade

In pursuit of springs which are lighter and stronger per rate, I switched to swift springs again.

As I was pretty happy with my current front/rear ratio, I selected 392lb front springs, and 672lb rear springs. The rears will be installed tomorrow (maybe).

Side by side:




Believe it or not, the Swift 7k spring is 1 ounce lighter than the 6.5k TCK VVS spring. Not a big difference. However, I did weigh my old Swift Spec-R front spring. 4 pounds 7 ounces, compared to the Swift coilover spring at 2 pounds even. So comparing swift springs OE style to coilovers, it represents almost 2.5 pounds weight reduction at the two front corners, or ~5 pounds on the front axle. Whew.


TCKR plates vs OE top hats:



I really wanted to like these camber plates. Bolted them up and great, felt fine, and were adjustable, which is what I wanted. BUT. The damper thread gain was negligible, and I really didn't like how they bolted up to the shock tower. So I took them off and put the OE top hats back on. I will be installing the Dinan fixed plates this fall before my next "real" alignment. I'm sure someone can make use of these TCK plates, they'll be going up for sale soon.


TCK front reinstalled with OE top hat and new Swift 7k front spring.



As you can see from this picture, and the first, I also installed Swift thrust sheets. Honestly, I'm not sure they help. Spring compression seems more controlled and fluid, but that could just be attributable to the springs themselves. I will say I did have some gouges in the spring perches, which indicates to me that the TCK VVS springs caught and bound on me previously. For $25, it's not a big gamble. For anyone considering swift thrust sheets on the lower perch of TCK SA coils, you may need to bore out the thrust sheets by 1mm. They fit the upper perch perfectly, but were slightly too small for the lower. Fixed in 5 minutes with a dremel, but be aware!


As always: any questions, fire away!
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      08-16-2017, 04:10 PM   #105
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nice update. where did you end up buying the springs from?

what didnt you like about how the camber plate installed on the car?

did you ever reach out to racing brake?
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      08-16-2017, 06:44 PM   #106
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Quote:
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nice update. where did you end up buying the springs from?

what didnt you like about how the camber plate installed on the car?

did you ever reach out to racing brake?
Get my swift springs stuff from KamiSpeed. Best prices I've found, good customer service, and free shipping.

The camber plates were secured by free bolts. They fell out several times while I was trying to bolt the strut up to the strut tower. When they fall out the adjustment plate moves. Nothing really wrong with that once it's secured, but I didn't want to have to deal with that in the future. Maybe the new design TCKR plates don't have that minor flaw. For now, the OE top hat is sufficient, and once I'm closer to my annual alignment, the Dinan plates will be a perfect addition. I'll take the cash from these TCKR plates once I sell them and put it towards a new Stg2/2+ (Walbro 450) LPFP. I've been looking at the Precision Raceworks modular LPFP setup. I like that I can add another pump/assembly without taking it out and trading for a different bucket/bracket/whatever.

Racing Brake is on my list of phone calls for tomorrow. After reading more about their 2-piece F/R kit, I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a full car kit, minus SS brake lines (my OE lines are fine) and RBF600 fluid (don't want to change fluid >1x per year). Just have to find out if there's any special install notes or additional parts I'll need outside of their rotors/matched pads and anything else in the box. I really like that they are 2 piece SLOTTED rotors. I really didn't want cross-drilled rotors. I also really like that I can keep the parking brake. Mine is badly out of adjustment so it'll be a good time to take care of that.
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      08-18-2017, 09:50 AM   #107
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Rear suspension repair and Swift coilover spring upgrade:

For this I selected Swift 10" 65mm ID rear coilover springs with a 672 lbs/in or 12 kg/mm spring rate. Why 12k with a 7k front spring? My previous setup used TCKs own VVS coil springs at 350/600 lbs/in. This accounts for a 58.33% front biased spring rate. As I liked the F/R suspension balance, I wanted to preserve that ratio. With these rear springs, the ratio at least with my (possibly incorrect) math is preserved.

I also opted to add Swift thrust sheets top and bottom of the springs, and after discussion with our local suspension expert, Fe1rx was kind enough to supply me his spare set of custom rear lower spring isolators. More on these below. Not pictured are new lower shock mounts. One of the mounts was stuck on the old TCK damper, and the other had 30k miles on it, so I opted to replace them as a set with new OEM Febi Bilstein mounts.



Despite my love of the TCK coilover setup, I've had some issues with the rear dampers. My left rear damper bottom mount or stud nut seized on the right damper, and the left damper nut couldn't be removed at all. Perhaps they got overtorqued? I'm not sure.

I need to cut the nut off the left damper so I can see the threads. I had to remove the lower mount torx bolts (E12), lube the mount itself up really well, and pull the whole thing out of the lower camber arm. Almost didn't come out.

With the damper out I was able to spin up the rear TCK spring height adjuster and remove the spring without dropping the camber link. This is one of the huge benefits of coilovers, the bolt to drop the camber link is torqued to 122 ft lbs. Without an impact gun, it's a workout to get that loose and then to tighten again after.



With the TCK VVS rear spring out, I dusted out the rear camber link. I've been wrenching on my own cars for years now and every time I do suspension work I am still blown away by how much dirt/sand/gravel gets stuck in there.

On to the rear lower spring isolators. With standard coilover setups, the spring sits in the recess of the arm. BMW secures the stock rear springs with lower and upper rubber isolators/spring pads. After switching to TCK SA coils, I could occasionally hear the rear spring popping/knocking in the lower arm. If I had to wonder, probably getting stuck and then popping loose upon rebound. I had noticed that Fe1rx made a set of isolators when he did his Ohlins coil install. I reached out and he graciously sold me his spare set. Shipping from Canada is always pricy, but these are worth it.




As you can see, the back side of the isolator is machined out to match the curvature of the recess in the well of the camber link. This gives the spring something FLAT to sit on. Adding thrust sheets to this and the height adjuster above allows the spring to spin even when compressed.

With that, the isolator and thrust sheets were installed, and new 10" Swift springs monkeyed back into place.



Here's a closeup of the spring sitting on the isolator. It fits so well the thrust sheets stay put under the spring, which is a good thing. Provides a smooth surface to allow the spring to rotate and further reduce the chance of binding.



So with that done, I opted to put my old Bilstein B6 dampers back in on the rear. They had been abused heavily in their tenure on the car a few years back, but they're still in great shape. New rear mounts went in, the 12mm upper shock mount sleeves for the Dinan RSM were swapped back for the necessary 10mm sleeve since the Bilstein dampers are not externally adjustable.



Then, nothing left to do but repeat on the other side! This was easier as the TCK stud on this side was only damaged slightly and the nut came off with some force. As compared to being totally FUBAR on the left. Thankfully I had a matched set of quality rear dampers sitting around right?



And another closeup..




Impressions and final thoughts

First thing, I weighed the TCK VVS springs, the Swift coilover springs, and my old Swift Spec-R springs.

REAR:
  • TCK VVS springs (600 lbs/in): 5 lbs 1 oz.
  • Swift coilover springs (672 lbs/in): 4 lbs 14 oz.
  • Swift Spec-R springs (503 lbs/in): 5 lbs 15 oz.

FRONT:
  • TCK VVS springs (350 lbs/in): 2 lbs 1 oz.
  • Swift coilover springs (392 lbs/in): 2 lbs.
  • Swift Spec-R springs (201 lbs/in): 4 lbs 7 oz.

This is good information to have. Despite having an almost 100 lbs/in increase in spring rate, the swift coilover springs are 3 ounces lighter. Each. Coupled with the front springs, I have removed 8 ounces from the suspension. Really insignificant overall, but I like removing unsprung weight where I can.

What's really shocking to me is the difference between the Swift coilover springs and the Spec-R springs. 4 lbs 14 oz on the front axle, and 2 lbs 2 oz on the rear axle weight savings. I didn't weigh the front dampers, so real weight savings switching from OE BMW style strut to coilover is unknown, but here we are.

The differences are pretty minor overall. I don't know if it's the new springs, or the thrust sheets, or both, but the car is much more compliant on bumps and sudden elevation changes. Bump steer is reduced, and harshness is reduced as well, despite increasing spring rate. Changing to the bilstein rear dampers seems to have increased rigidity / tightened things up in the rear. I wonder how the valving compares between the B6 and TCK Koni external. I know the B6 is a much higher pressure gas tube.

I had some lateral movement under WOT in dry conditions which is now resolved. I suspect it's a combination of removing a sagged spring, and possibly the high pressure gas tube dampers. I need to drive more and start putting the car through its paces to compare the straight TCK SA setup to the new TCK/Swift front and B6/Swift rear setup.

With the increased rear spring rate I feel the car now needs a limited slip differential. I am getting some more tire spin in the corners, though despite keeping the ratio the same as before, the car feels more neutral. I probably haven't pushed it hard enough yet.

The next (and probably last) steps for the rear end are going to ultimately be the HPA M3 type rear lower camber link, TCK Dual (or maybe single) adjustable M3/1M rear dampers, and I think a Wavetrac LSD.

As always: any questions, fire away!
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      09-12-2017, 06:50 PM   #108
ShocknAwe
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Update from the bowels of September!

It's been about a month since I fixed my rear suspension and swapped to Swift products. I had the car up in the upstate SC for some hard mountain driving this past weekend due to evacuating early for Hurricane Irma. Luckly we didn't get hit with anything more than a tropical storm out in Charleston, but it was a good excuse.

Thoughts on the Bilstein dampers in the rear as a temporary (or not) measure:

They match really well with the Swift 672lb rear springs. I always thought the bilstein damper was a bit harsh with the spec-r rate springs I had before switching to coils, but it's remarkably smooth here. Now, I lack the ability to change rebound in the rear, so if I was driving on a track that demanded it, I'd miss that.

There's no bounce, no feeling of load discrepancy L/R. Makes for a very planted, somewhat firm rear end. That being said, I haven't checked the valving, and I don't know how long these will last like this.


In other news:
I've been shopping new wheels to go along with the body work that's upcoming, and am considering a split set of Enkei RS05RR in silver. Very nice looking, and light, 18" wheels. Around 18-19 pounds each, which would be a moderate reduction from my current 22lbs front and 25lbs rear. Considering 18x9.5et22 up front and 18x9et50 in rear, 265 on all four corners. Would change to a 18x9.5et35 once the rear quarters are done, but that's not coming anytime soon. Thoughts?

Did a log somewhat recently and with 18-19psi, my turbos are bouncing off max PWM. So they're tired. Looking at replacing them with either Pure Stage 2 DD, MMP Stage 3, or VTT GC Lite twins. Feedback from any who own the aforementioned sets is welcomed!

LPFP pressures are failing too, so it's time for a new LPFP! Trying to decide between the Fuel-it Stage2+ Bucketless and the Precision Raceworks Stage 2+ Modular.

That's all for now, back to work!
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      09-13-2017, 06:05 PM   #109
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Talk to chadillac2000 about the fuel and turbos, he's in that process right now!

I'm really liking your suspension setup
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      09-14-2017, 08:47 AM   #110
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Absolutely fantastic work on a)all the suspension tinkering and b)getting all your pictures back live. I haven't yet delved into really working on improving the suspension yet with my E82, but I can't get enough of that TCK porn. As I've mentioned, I thoroughly enjoyed the build quality and performance from their products on previous cars. The sad truth is that I just don't push this 1er handling wise enough to warrant high dollar upgrades.

As far as fueling goes, I can't recommend the Fuel-It! Stage 2 LPFP upgrades enough. I've ran them in my 535i and 135i, and both have worked flawlessly since day one, while simultaneously providing all the fuel I've thrown at them. Granted these were just FBO power levels with E40-E60. I'll be keeping a close eye on my LPFP and HPFP when I get my GC Lites installed to see if they can keep up. I won't have the ability to run 100% E85, but mixing takes about a few minutes more at the pump than normal, which is a small price to remain fully DI. Look forward to seeing what you decide on!
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