Burger Motorsports Spark Plug Socket

[Mega Man]

Can someone who's used this give me their 2 cents on this?
I'm considering this or the actual BMW one if anyone can chime in on one working significantly better than the other, or if this one is bad.

On another note - COBB AccessPort is great - it makes noticeable power on any of the maps beyond stock. My only gripe is that I believe this is the culprit behind my misfires. COBB even made a video on diagnosing BMW misfires due to the AccessPort "This increased power has caused some owners to experience misfire issues."

When I first got the AccessPort, I ran it with Stage 1 Sport +FMIC ST basically daily thinking nothing of it. I later had misfire issues and took it to get serviced - replaced coilpacks on cylinders 3 and 6 + the spark plugs. I then uninstalled the AccessPort and hadn't used it since. I tracked it a few weeks ago and prior to tracking it re-installed the AccessPort. I'm now having misfires on cylinders 3, 4, and 5.

It's great COBB made a video addressing how to fix the issue - I'd just rather not have the issue in the first place.

If someone could give me some help on my misfires, I'd also appreciate it given the information below:
- Cold start idle has a noticeable change in sound, it sounds smooth followed by an intermittent blip; tachometer ever so slightly reflects this "blipping sound"
- Warm idle idles around 800-1000 RPM (shouldn't it be ~600?), it'll drop to about 1000 when coming to a stop, and a few seconds later fall to about 800 and sit there (or come back up to 1000)
- It doesn't really fluctuate, it's not bouncing up and down while idling. It either floats at 1000, or drops to 800 and stays there, or it will go back up to 1000 and stay there, but once it chooses where to be, it stays there.
- No CEL and when toggling the menu options for "CHECK," the Check always comes back, "CHECK OK"
- How do I know it's cylinders 3, 4, and 5 that are mis-firing? The AccessPort tells me so when I check codes.
- I can't honestly say there's a loss of power by feel, on one occasion while getting on a freeway on ramp it did stutter and then basically feel like limp mode (No CEL at that time, and no codes were thrown when I checked it after getting home)

[Jorgensen54]

I didn't realize I would need a thin-wall when I first did my plugs, so a quick trip to autozone was called for. I got this:
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-an...ket/750016_0_0

My 2¢ - Does the job and is marginally cheaper. Don't waste your money on unnecessary branded tools... even if they do have a mythical magnet.(Also, I may have gotten lucky, but mine has the rubber grommet for holding onto the plug upon insertion/extraction)

[Ric in RVA]

Whenever I hear weird idle
I Think vacuum leak.

[juld0zer]

I use a Ko-ken brand socket for all 14mm bi-hex plugs. Works perfectly with the matching Ko-ken 3/8dr wobbly extension set.

[thewubwub]

Originally Posted by Mega Man

Can someone who's used this give me their 2 cents on this?
I'm considering this or the actual BMW one if anyone can chime in on one working significantly better than the other, or if this one is bad.

On another note - COBB AccessPort is great - it makes noticeable power on any of the maps beyond stock. My only gripe is that I believe this is the culprit behind my misfires. COBB even made a video on diagnosing BMW misfires due to the AccessPort "This increased power has caused some owners to experience misfire issues."

When I first got the AccessPort, I ran it with Stage 1 Sport +FMIC ST basically daily thinking nothing of it. I later had misfire issues and took it to get serviced - replaced coilpacks on cylinders 3 and 6 + the spark plugs. I then uninstalled the AccessPort and hadn't used it since. I tracked it a few weeks ago and prior to tracking it re-installed the AccessPort. I'm now having misfires on cylinders 3, 4, and 5.

It's great COBB made a video addressing how to fix the issue - I'd just rather not have the issue in the first place.

If someone could give me some help on my misfires, I'd also appreciate it given the information below:
- Cold start idle has a noticeable change in sound, it sounds smooth followed by an intermittent blip; tachometer ever so slightly reflects this "blipping sound"
- Warm idle idles around 800-1000 RPM (shouldn't it be ~600?), it'll drop to about 1000 when coming to a stop, and a few seconds later fall to about 800 and sit there (or come back up to 1000)
- It doesn't really fluctuate, it's not bouncing up and down while idling. It either floats at 1000, or drops to 800 and stays there, or it will go back up to 1000 and stay there, but once it chooses where to be, it stays there.
- No CEL and when toggling the menu options for "CHECK," the Check always comes back, "CHECK OK"
- How do I know it's cylinders 3, 4, and 5 that are mis-firing? The AccessPort tells me so when I check codes.
- I can't honestly say there's a loss of power by feel, on one occasion while getting on a freeway on ramp it did stutter and then basically feel like limp mode (No CEL at that time, and no codes were thrown when I checked it after getting home)

I've personally used that Burger Spark Plug tool before, and it works great! Used it several times and it fits perfectly. I used a cheap on from Amazon I believe and that one was super tight to the point where I was scared that I could break the plug.

Also, in regards to your misfiring issue, how many miles do you have on your car? When I ran the MHD initially (87000+ miles), it started to misfire so I just replaced all the coil packs and spark plugs just for piece of mind. I didn't bother testing out which coil pack, or spark plugs worked.