Need Help with O2 Sensor Diagnosis (Chart Included)

[Ovation]

Hi! First off I want to apoligize if this isnt the right place for this. This is the first time posting on the forum but I think I made sure to navigate to the correct place!

I have a 2011 BMW 135i (N55) with production date of March / 2010.
Link to my log: https://datazap.me/u/ovation/march-2...ata=2-14-15-20

When I first got into doing my own modification I had done the intercooler, Catless DPs, and charge pipe. Ever since I did that (Just under a year ago) I have been fighting a rough idle. I have confirmed with shops, along with smoke tests that I do not have any leaks. So I eliminated that possibility. I will post below things I have replaced since I have owned the car (Yes most were required) but some were a waste. I have MHD and have the care on a stage 2 + (91 Oct). I have taken the tune off and back on many times to see if it would make a difference in how the car is running to no avail.

-Ignition Coils
-Spark Plugs
-Alternator
-Starter
-Valve cover (PCV Valve)
-Oil changes every 5000km
-Trans fluid
-Walnut Blast
-MAF Sensor
-Fuel Filter/Regulator
-Both Vanos Solenoids

There could be more but those are the noticable ones. I have done many tests on the HPFP in terms of checking the Rail Pressure Mean PSI. There is only one sensor to test on the n55 so I dont have a way to test the LPFP. I guess my main question is about the O2 sensors and their reading levels...but from the little knowledge on their levels they seem to be WAY off from each other. Now I am on a catless system, and in MHD I have set it so that I am on catless so that I dont throw a CEL. But I have a few questions about that. Will the O2 sensors still cause issues even when tuned to not throw a CEL? Should the levels be the same since there is no cats in the car? Why does the post cat sensor drop to exactly 1 when I am coasting and not hitting my pedal? But the pre cat stays around 1.50 and then jumps when I let off the gas? I enabled the post and pre cat readings on my graph along with the pedal postion, and RPMs to get the best idea. But I also enabled my timing corrections, boost, fuel rail pressure mean (PSI), ect. I dont know enough to pinpoint a diagnosis, but I have been fighting this for a while. The only things I havent replaced are the HPFP, LPFP, and the injectors. But with my symptoms is hard to pick one and pull the trigger. The codes I have got over the months are the following...which I know everyone is going to say HPFP. But with when this started happening, the timing would just be bizzare. So thats why I wanted to start with O2 sensors first and whether they can cause issues still. I have a shadow code that comes up every now and then. But its once every 2 weeks or so and it must just get triggered quick and then not be a problem since its NEVER active...No codes leading to cylinders or anything. I checked my spark plugs and they are all normal to the wear and tear, no fuel or oil on them. On cylinders 3 and 4 I have noticed the white insulation on the coils have gone more yellow/brown though than the others and thats the only physical difference between all of those.

Codes over the last year:

*Shadow*
2BDE - Fuel high pressure during fuel injection release: Pressure too low.
2BF0 - Kraftstoffhochdruck bei oder nach Freigabe der Einspritzung (2. Umweltbedingungssatz nach Zeitverzogerung): Druck zu niedrig
That second code is in german and is scares me haha but I thought I would include it as it comes with the first one.

I apologize for being all over the place but the car has been running great other than this. Throttle response is slow too when I hit the gas. It always is great when I reset all my adaptations and then after a few days the rough idle comes back and it goes. My question is that if it was the HPFP or LPFP wouldnt the car have problem starting at this point? My cranks are almost instant every single time. No long cranks unless its -20c out. Plus its been like this for almost a year. I know how much I am hurting my engine running it with a rough idle for that long and enough is enough.

Thank you for the help. I will answer any questions anyone has if needed too.

[Ovation]

I should also mention that when I turn my AC on, the rough idle gets worse and more agressive. Another thing that might not matter or is natural but I want to give as much info as possible!