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10-19-2021, 09:47 AM | #1 |
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280 km/h Kombi TRC/Nettodat request
Hi guys,
I'm swapping out the dash overlays with some Venoxy ones. Problem is, my car is a US Spec (dash to 160 mph/260 km/h), and I got an overlay to 280 km/h. Speed is currently reading 10% higher, which is a lot (especially at higher speeds). I'm trying to find coding/VO to compare and change. Would you please be so kind to share your TRC/VO/nettodat if you have a 280km/h dash? Thanks guys! |
10-20-2021, 01:15 PM | #2 |
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Perfekt Toolbox is what you're looking for I believe.
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10-20-2021, 01:17 PM | #3 |
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10-20-2021, 02:19 PM | #4 |
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You're the man!
That was exactly what I needed. Ended up making the fuel gauge and oil temp gauge more accurate as well! Thread closed from my perspective, hope this can help others too in the future! One thing this solves, too, is that there's no "coding" available to show accurate speed on US cars (only available for the digital speedometer). This solves this too. Cheers! Thanks so much iminhell. |
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10-22-2021, 09:38 AM | #5 |
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This is the first I have heard of PerfektToolbox, I did some searches and found some stuff about it on the E90 and E60 section of the boards.
To get my speedometer accurate, do I only need to change the "display speed" values to reflect the "real speed" values? Will I need to do anything else? Is the odometer also still spot on accurate? This sounds what I have been looking for the past few years. Fortunately, this speedometer error was a lot easier to fix on the old E46 chassis. |
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10-22-2021, 11:44 AM | #6 | |
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No, just changing the speeds won't change it. At least for me it didn't, you can try (test drive button) and see after each flash. You might need to change the motor stops settings. |
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10-22-2021, 12:10 PM | #7 |
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For reference, here is mine. From stock 160mph/260km/h speedo to a 280km/h speedometer.
Notes: - I changed the dampening for cosmetic purposes only, assuming it'll move the needle faster when decelerating. - The starting point at 100 stops was something I did because of the position of the needle after removal (I couldn't get it to sit on 0 perfectly, it was a bit below 0). Cosmetic too, but it makes my needle rest on 0 now. - I went from "top to bottom", meaning, I figured out how many steps got the needle exactly on 280 (in my case, 6950), and opened a calculator to divide it by 2 to get 140, divide it by 2.8 for 50, and then by 5 for 10. That worked well for me. Perhaps there's a better way I'm willing to learn! I got the speedometer to be 100% accurate to 220 km/h. At 240, 260, and 280, the true speed is 2km/h less. Which I'm happy with. And I'll likely not see much of. With the application, you can write as many times as you want, so a bit of trial and error is ok. Change things around, write, "test drive" and repeat until satisfied. Last edited by ________; 02-11-2023 at 02:07 PM.. |
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10-22-2021, 12:13 PM | #8 |
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Another thing I was never able to get done with coding on the 1 series (it works on the E90) was to get the cruise control display to show km/h. Even coding for km/h, it always showed mph.
With perfekt toolbox it now shows km/h! This is really a great tool in addition to ISTA and NCSExpert. |
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10-23-2021, 09:27 AM | #9 |
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Thanks for the reply Onesie and I really appreciate the short write up!
This will definitely be something I will be doing on my cars. It is good to know that cruise control and everything else will still work without issues. You answered the questions I had. Doing the quick division on the step motor positions to correlate with the corresponding speed seems logical to me. However, now I see where trial and error will come into play to find the proper upper and lower step motor value. It still looks pretty straight forward and easy to figure out despite this! |
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10-23-2021, 10:16 AM | #10 | |
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The trial and error process is actually fun. My spouse was mesmerized by the needle moving lol and the "write" function takes a fraction of a second to complete. It's super super quick. The whole thing above took me less than 10 minutes and I started off from nothing. Here's what I think might work for you: 1- change the display speeds to the actual speeds and write. See if that works when you "test drive". 100 should be 100. 2- if not, then "test drive" to the highest speed on your speedometer. If it falls squarely on the highest speed you know your highest motor steps are right. Then start going back to where the speed goes off. As you can see from mine you're free to change the actual speed too to something easier to calculate. Please don't forget to backup everything before you start. There's a "whole backup" function on the main screen I missed doing. Then there are individual backups for each section (speedo, tacho, fuel, oil temp, cruise). Those I've done. Easier to revert to the backup to flash again if you're beyond your trial and error threshold lol I've opened the backup to take the screenshots above, so it works well. Have fun!! |
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