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10-22-2013, 10:38 PM | #1 |
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Daily Rotors selection?
Hi everyone,
I am currently on the hunt for a new set of rotors for my car. I am planning on using Hawk HPS pads for the front and back and would prefer drilled and slotted rotor providing the price doesn't get ridiculous. Does anyone have any recommendation as I am currently on a budget and do not want to over spend. I just notice rotors range from $50 to $250 so I am unsure of what to get. it will mostly be for daily driving and an occasional track day 1-2 times a year. Keep in mind that i am from Canada so shipping cost does factor in too. |
10-22-2013, 11:20 PM | #2 |
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If you're looking for drilled/slotted there aren't heaps of options for both out there.
BMWP rotors are drilled/slotted in the front and dimpled/slotted in the rear but the fronts have been known to show signs of cracking when overheated. Others have tracked them with no problems at all. If you do get drilled rotors, I would suggest making sure that you have sufficient cooling solutions and make sure you have proper cooldown laps to help prevent this. ECS also have drilled/slotted rotors which are pretty cheap but not sure how these perform.
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10-23-2013, 10:09 AM | #7 | |
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Buy centric blanks. rockauto.com Even if you get serious about tracking, you'll kill even the most expensive stock-sized rotors in pretty short order. Just not enough heat capacity. Better to run blanks. |
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10-23-2013, 10:32 AM | #8 |
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10-23-2013, 10:58 AM | #9 | |
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When you say Centric Blanks, do you mean tehir C-trex line? Thank |
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10-23-2013, 12:47 PM | #10 | |
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10-23-2013, 12:51 PM | #11 | |
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They lasted every bit as long as OEM BMW rotors on my M3 on the track (about 6 days) before stress-cracking sets in. And no difference in street longevity. Really hard to justify pricey hunks of iron for street driving, and for the track, unless you have a BBK, the car will kill rotors way too quickly (aka well before they're worn down) to justify buying something more expensive. |
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10-23-2013, 05:36 PM | #12 |
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Go to Advance Auto and buy whatever is cheapest and has the warranty. I do this with my E36 M3 track car and they last a full season with no issues. Keep the receipt and on the off chance you have issues, return them and get a new set under the warranty.
I'll never understand why people think they need slotted/drilled/gold plated rotors especially for a DD. |
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10-23-2013, 06:22 PM | #13 | |
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10-23-2013, 06:38 PM | #14 | |
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Shocked you get a season out of them though. What's your E36 weigh? E46 guys on stock sized-rotors go through a set of fronts every few weekends. Some Corvette guys buy generic blanks by the pallet (no joke). |
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10-23-2013, 06:50 PM | #15 | |
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Seriously though, drilled rotors do nothing for performance, they just fill with dust anyways. |
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10-23-2013, 09:17 PM | #16 | |
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I feel your pain. Odd rotor choice for BMW on that one (although I still WANT one). No reason not to run one of their more common rotor choices. My buddy has a Z4M, similar to my E46 M3, but the rotors? Yeah, slightly larger, but still too small to make any tangible difference, and 4x the cost. Uggg....but it's soo sexy. S54 for life. |
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10-23-2013, 09:42 PM | #17 | ||
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And free floating rotors are pretty cool |
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10-24-2013, 01:32 PM | #18 | |
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I guess I should define what a season is for me. My dad and I both drive it 3-4 events a year, he does HPDE and I'm now doing TT with NASA. I consider that to be equal to a full season doing 6-8 events. We run Hawk DCT-60 front and HT-10 rear pads. The car weights 3200 lbs with a full tank and driver (~200 lbs). I have a friend that tracks a C5 and he goes through rotors like he does fuel. |
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