fe1rx goes full spherical

[houtan]

Thank you. Do you recall what brand/ model retaining compound you used? My googling resulted in more options than I was expecting.

[fe1rx]

Originally Posted by houtan

Thank you. Do you recall what brand/ model retaining compound you used? My googling resulted in more options than I was expecting.

Originally Posted by houtan

Thank you. Do you recall what brand/ model retaining compound you used? My googling resulted in more options than I was expecting.

Loctite 609

This one can be used to augment a press fit, and I had it on hand.

My other go to retainer is 638, but it is intended for sliding fits, so isn't really well suited for this application.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by fe1rx

Loctite 609

This one can be used to augment a press fit, and I had it on hand.

My other go to retainer is 638, but it is intended for sliding fits, so isn't really well suited for this application.

Thanks. I will plan to do the same.

For the RTABs, did you use any sort of lube when pressing them in? My YouTube research shows people doing it both ways.

[houtan]

Sorry, another question. I’m in the process of installing the BW lower camber arm bearing and realized I have a problem, my bushing cups won’t allow me to press the bearing all the way in. The instructions say you can use a socket for this part. But I have no clue if they mean I can use a socket on the inner sleeve or something else. I’m worried about damaging the bearing if I put a socket on the inner sleeve. How did you press the bearings in to the gold sleeve?

Thanks,
Houtan

Never mind. I found the correct cup in my other kit!

[fe1rx]

Originally Posted by houtan

Never mind. I found the correct cup in my other kit!

You can never have too many of those!

[houtan]

Quick question on the RTABs. Did you try to mimic the position of the stock bushing or just center them in the hub/ subfram? Mine are offset slightly but the offset on the same side doesn’t match nor does it seem to match Left to right. With the lack of symmetry it seems I should just do my best to center them but I also have no clue what I’m doing!

[fe1rx]

Originally Posted by houtan

Quick question on the RTABs. Did you try to mimic the position of the stock bushing or just center them in the hub/ subfram? Mine are offset slightly but the offset on the same side doesn't match nor does it seem to match Left to right. With the lack of symmetry it seems I should just do my best to center them but I also have no clue what I'm doing!

Check this out:

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=24700024

As noted there, the offset is a tuning parameter. At very least, set them the same on both sides.

[houtan]

So I finished this I stall a couple of weeks ago. Everything feels great. Ran into a couple of things I wanted to share here. Nothing on the technical level like the op though. fe1rx, hopefully that’s ok but if not let me know and I will delete.

Install tips:
1. use some sand paper, I used 120 grit, to clean the hole after removing the bushing. I probably did what equals about ten full revolutions. Then I went over the hole with a smal red scotchbrite pad. Basically the surface was very clean when I was done. Then I cleaned the hole with some rubbing alcohol to remove any particles.

2. Use some sort of lube, not water based. I had some super lube laying around so that’s what I used. Very thin coat in the hole the bushing is going into and thin coat on the outside of the bushing.

3. Freeze the bushing overnight. I think one and two would have been enough but I did this anyway.

When I tried to install the bushings that were frozen overnight without prepping the hole, they kept going in crooked. After the hole prep, they went in straight for the most part.

2. Factory trailing arm modification: I went with the BW bushings. When installing my factory rear trailing arms, I noticed the arm was touching the bearing boot. So I ended up shaving off a little of the arm so there is sufficient clearance.

[Donkeyshins]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

I took delivery of Millway front tension arm bearings the other day and I thought I'd share their construction. Like others they use a clamping ring instead of a spiral snap ring. The main bearing area starts off with a 70.04mm diameter before knurling, which is darn close to the 2.758" diameter you derived, though not the full, 30mm width of the arm. The overall shaft width is 29.96mm ensuring some clamping force from the retaining ring. The knurling has a 1mm pitch (which on a 70.04mm diameter is almost a perfect 220 knurls) bringing the diameter up to 70.25mm. The lead-in to the tension arm is turned down to 69.75mm. My sample of (2) were identical. The bearings are Lemforder part number 33326792553.

Actual install is a ways off, but I don't anticipate any issues. The Millway rear inner camber bearings and RSFBs are on their way as well, but stuck in UPS limbo. I expect them to be as equally well made. They're also relatively inexpensive. The tension arm bearings were $250.44 shipped.

How are the Millway bearings holding up for you? I'm interested (at some point) in making a similar upgrade to my TRW tension arms.

Thanks!

[amg6975]

Seeing this pop up reminded about the tread on M3post about various hardware issues after going spherical.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1781245

Originally Posted by amg6975

After doing spherical I had one bolt on both sides back out. I Loctite'd them but one of those bearings was pretty shot. This spring when I replaced that bearing I also had the thought to use some nicer bolts. Single shear bolts freak me out.

ARP 664-1009 is what you want. I installed with a little dab of medium Loctite just because. If your car has some miles on it you may want to run a M12x1.5 tap through the knuckle, the stock bolts don't go all the way through in two of the locations so it was a little crunchy to get the ARP bolt all the way in.

Torque spec is 98 ft-lbs for the ARP bolt. There are three locations on each side.

I have not had any issues since switching to the ARP bolts.

[psubmw]

Originally Posted by fe1rx

Check this out:

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=24700024

As noted there, the offset is a tuning parameter. At very least, set them the same on both sides.

This was always my question too. I replaced my RTAB bushings on my 335 and always questioned how to get the correct depth, especially on the subframe side. I'm very interested in looking at what you linked.

I also find it weird that, at least for e90 3 series, the camber arm ball joint is inserted into the knuckle more rearward than centered in the ear.

Do you find that poly bushings in the subframe side of the camber swing arm add any harshness or noise? What about the monoballs in place of the rtabs?