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      08-22-2019, 04:44 PM   #1
JPuehl
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N55: Front crank seal orientation for installation?

Does anyone know what the orientation is supposed to be when installing the front crank seal on an N55? "Pucker" side in or out?

I've replaced my seal twice and both times the BMW seal comes setup on the white plastic guide with the "pucker" pointing towards the closed end of the guide, which would be pointing towards the outside of the engine if installed that way. The seal I removed from my car (with about 35k miles at the time) and what I have seen in videos online have the "pucker" pointing into the motor, which not only is counter-intuitive but harder to get right and requires you to change the orientation on the guide. Seems if the "pucker" was supposed to point into the engine the supplier would put it that way on the guide. I've read that the arrow on the flat side should be installed pointing the direction of crank rotation which would have the "pucker" pointing inside the motor. You can see the arrow on the flat side of the seal in the pic of the bottom of the install guide.

I need to change the same seal on my wifes 335i w/N55 and want to make sure I get it right (this time if I haven't been doing it right on my car).
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      08-23-2019, 07:14 PM   #2
Gizmo135i
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So there are two different style seals, a thick one and a skinny one like yours, they changed it at some point in I think 2012. The lip is supposed to point in towards the engine, the reason the white piece is installed backwards is because you’re supposed to slide it from there onto the installation special tool which bolts to the end of the crank, and then you press it from there into the engine.

I’ve never tried changing one without the tool, but be careful it is easy to damage the sealing surface or flip it inside out and it is hard to tell if you did once it is installed.
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      08-23-2019, 07:56 PM   #3
bbnks2
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Looks like its upside down on the white cup... this isnt difficult... it should only go in one way and it should be very obvious lol
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      06-19-2021, 02:37 PM   #4
crhenkel
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sealant and primer or not?

so when do I use the expensive sealant and primer bmw sells to install a front crank shaft seal on a54 orN55 in my case?
The seal I am installing is the upgraded one and I did not rebuild or open the engine case. just had serpentine belt shred and need to replace the crank seal.

the sealant and primer cost more than the BMW OEM seal.
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      06-20-2021, 07:29 AM   #5
Gizmo135i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
so when do I use the expensive sealant and primer bmw sells to install a front crank shaft seal on a54 orN55 in my case?
The seal I am installing is the upgraded one and I did not rebuild or open the engine case. just had serpentine belt shred and need to replace the crank seal.

the sealant and primer cost more than the BMW OEM seal.
If the belt is inside the engine then you really should remove the oil pan and maybe the valve cover to make sure there is no belt material tangled in the timing chain…. It also likes to collect in the oil pickup tube and cause oil starvation.

Also I’m not aware of an upgraded one, just two different types depending on the production date. One of them your supposed to put the sealant and the other it’s not necessary. The one with the sealant has two flat spots on either side which you are supposed to line up with the seam between the block and bed plate, and then inject the sealer into the corners with a syringe.
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      06-20-2021, 01:10 PM   #6
crhenkel
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Shredded belt mess

Thanks a lot. I purchased the primer and sealant in case. I think I have the year make combo that doesn’t need it but your info will allow me to be sure. Also ESC Tuning will allow you to return them if not needed.
And yes. You are absolutely correct on the belt shred issue.
That is my plan.
I have all parts to drop oil pan to check. I do think I have oil starvation noise going on. Pick up
Tube blockage. I also am sure the front seal is bad due to belt pieces.
I have already pulled and replaced valve cover and gaskets. Did the check and s good clean out there.
Note. If you are dropping the oil pan yourself like I am. Not a fun or quick job. But fairly. Simple and straight forward.
If you drop the pan,,,,,you might as well
Consider doing the following:
New non liquid filled motor mounts
New O rings and gaskets on and in pan along with new bolts
New front sway bar links
New performance front sway bar bushings
Replace o2 sensors
And do your catless down pipe install at t hi s time.

Yes. Sounds like a lot. But guess what. It is all accessible and has to pretty much be removed or unbolted to get the pan our any way. Really.
All those parts roughly cost me $1500 including the tools kit to do the front seal.
Even the Indy shop wanted $1500 JUST to do the oil pan check and clean out with parts. Really!
That $1500 included everything including oil change for the front gearbox and the engine!
Do the work your self and totally get everything back to new or better for a fraction of the cost to just do the oil pan gasket.
Oh by the way. Do not forget!!!!
I also bought the add on kit to install the shield that goes over the front crank seal to stop a shredded belt from ever being able to
Enter again. And it included the mount to prevent the crank shaft bolt from ever stripping or spinning as well.

Last edited by crhenkel; 06-20-2021 at 01:15 PM.. Reason: Addition
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      06-21-2021, 12:56 PM   #7
dtla1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crhenkel View Post
Thanks a lot. I purchased the primer and sealant in case. I think I have the year make combo that doesn’t need it but your info will allow me to be sure. Also ESC Tuning will allow you to return them if not needed.
And yes. You are absolutely correct on the belt shred issue.
That is my plan.
I have all parts to drop oil pan to check. I do think I have oil starvation noise going on. Pick up
Tube blockage. I also am sure the front seal is bad due to belt pieces.
I have already pulled and replaced valve cover and gaskets. Did the check and s good clean out there.
Note. If you are dropping the oil pan yourself like I am. Not a fun or quick job. But fairly. Simple and straight forward.
If you drop the pan,,,,,you might as well
Consider doing the following:
New non liquid filled motor mounts
New O rings and gaskets on and in pan along with new bolts
New front sway bar links
New performance front sway bar bushings
Replace o2 sensors
And do your catless down pipe install at t hi s time.

Yes. Sounds like a lot. But guess what. It is all accessible and has to pretty much be removed or unbolted to get the pan our any way. Really.
All those parts roughly cost me $1500 including the tools kit to do the front seal.
Even the Indy shop wanted $1500 JUST to do the oil pan check and clean out with parts. Really!
That $1500 included everything including oil change for the front gearbox and the engine!
Do the work your self and totally get everything back to new or better for a fraction of the cost to just do the oil pan gasket.
Oh by the way. Do not forget!!!!
I also bought the add on kit to install the shield that goes over the front crank seal to stop a shredded belt from ever being able to
Enter again. And it included the mount to prevent the crank shaft bolt from ever stripping or spinning as well.
Might also be a good time to do your rear main seal, maybe water pump and thermostat, hell new strut mounts and gaskets, control arm bushings, BOV upgrade, and probably more. How deep down the rabbit hole will you go...?
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      06-21-2021, 11:57 PM   #8
crhenkel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Might also be a good time to do your rear main seal, maybe water pump and thermostat, hell new strut mounts and gaskets, control arm bushings, BOV upgrade, and probably more. How deep down the rabbit hole will you go...?
Already have done a lot of what you mentioned when it was due or needed.
I get your point of the rabbit hole. I am not doing just to do.
But alot of what either needs done or is going to need done soon is SO much easier to get at with the subframe dropped.
Now is definitely the time to do it.
Parts are but a mere fraction of the huge cost a shop wants to do the labor on these jobs. Most of what I am going to replace will already be unbolted.
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