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[chris82]

So I finally got myself some new wheels, after years running the Apex Aero 7 I decided to go with the ARC8 in 17" size and hankook RS4 235/45/17 tires. The fronts fit great but rears are a problem, I'm lowered on Eibach lowering springs/koni yellows, and m3 camber links, camber is at -2.7 and -2.8 back there and still rubs on the fender liners and possibly the metal fender itself but I'm not positive. From what I've read on countless threads here; this fitment shouldn't be an issue. Does the RS4 run really wide? Should I try a 40 tire sidewall instead of 45?

[PcarDefector]

Originally Posted by chris82

So I finally got myself some new wheels, after years running the Apex Aero 7 I decided to go with the ARC8 in 17" size and hankook RS4 235/45/17 tires. The fronts fit great but rears are a problem, I'm lowered on Eibach lowering springs/koni yellows, and m3 camber links, camber is at -2.7 and -2.8 back there and still rubs on the fender liners and possibly the metal fender itself but I'm not positive. From what I've read on countless threads here; this fitment shouldn't be an issue. Does the RS4 run really wide? Should I try a 40 tire sidewall instead of 45?

Surprised you're having fit issues but that could be due to your 1.7" drop. Im sure you saw these notes from Apex.

https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...-Fitment-Guide

To check rubbing, get some white shoe polish and apply thick strips 90* to the tread direction. The edges of the tread down to the widest part of the sidewall (apply to inside and outside edges) are more important. Drive for 15 mins or until it rubs a few times.

The scraps on the tread or sidewall and the marks left by the shoe polish will show you the contact points.

If contact is on the inside, you can use a small spacer. If you have 40mm offset and rubbing on the fender lips, spacers won't help so you'll have to roll the fender lips.

Going to 235/40 may help as the average diameter is about 1" less so you will have 1/2" more clearance in height. However 235/40x17 isn't a popular size and selection is small in 200AAA spec so the best tire will be the RT660.

Also check out tire rack to compare tread and sectional width between different tire manufacturers. You can also raise the car 5-10mm higher with camber plates (if you don't already have some) and rubber spring pads like Monroe (another 5mm)

[chris82]

Originally Posted by PcarDefector

Surprised you're having fit issues but that could be due to your 1.7" drop. Im sure you saw these notes from Apex.

https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...-Fitment-Guide

To check rubbing, get some white shoe polish and apply thick strips 90* to the tread direction. The edges of the tread down to the widest part of the sidewall (apply to inside and outside edges) are more important. Drive for 15 mins or until it rubs a few times.

The scraps on the tread or sidewall and the marks left by the shoe polish will show you the contact points.

If contact is on the inside, you can use a small spacer. If you have 40mm offset and rubbing on the fender lips, spacers won't help so you'll have to roll the fender lips.

Going to 235/40 may help as the average diameter is about 1" less so you will have 1/2" more clearance in height. However 235/40x17 isn't a popular size and selection is small in 200AAA spec so the best tire will be the RT660.

Also check out tire rack to compare tread and sectional width between different tire manufacturers. You can also raise the car 5-10mm higher with camber plates (if you don't already have some) and rubber spring pads like Monroe (another 5mm)

Thanks for the suggestions I'll try them. I did read all the notes on Apex's web page for the 1 series and that's exactly why I went with the 235 on that particular wheel. I know the car is lowered but it's not aggressive and I figured with all the negative camber I had this would not be an issue at all. I have a feeling I'll have to get these fenders rolled lol

[spidertri]

I definitely had to roll my rear fenders to get the 245/40-17 RE71Rs to fit nicely on a 17x8.5 et40 ARC8.

235/45 is an odd size being a little taller than stock but looks like RS4 might run a bit wider than the RE71Rs. Do you have solid rubber rear shock mounts?

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by chris82

Thanks for the suggestions I'll try them. I did read all the notes on Apex's web page for the 1 series and that's exactly why I went with the 235 on that particular wheel. I know the car is lowered but it's not aggressive and I figured with all the negative camber I had this would not be an issue at all. I have a feeling I'll have to get these fenders rolled lol

IMHO, don't f*ck your body up, do the narrow hub conversion. I looked at your build. Why cheap out now? Cuz it's easy?

[iminhell1]

Personally, I'd look into having the rims offset cut down. CnC, lathe whatever the machine shop feels comfortable with.
To me it's the least headache option to explore.

I'm on stock arms and a 255/40 17 on a 17x9 +45. Very minimal rub. So little that I had to look hard to find it. And TBH I can go closer to the shock still, but I'd have to shave the rim. If I can get some negative camber, I'd sit perfect. Also, lowered on Eibach sportlines.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Personally, I'd look into having the rims offset cut down. CnC, lathe whatever the machine shop feels comfortable with.
To me it's the least headache option to explore.

I'm on stock arms and a 255/40 17 on a 17x9 +45. Very minimal rub. So little that I had to look hard to find it. And TBH I can go closer to the shock still, but I'd have to shave the rim. If I can get some negative camber, I'd sit perfect. Also, lowered on Eibach sportlines.

Depending on the rim, that could be a lot of meat to remove to get the required clearance. And, what do you do when you get a tire with a cross-section that rubs somewhere else after having removed only just enough?

The hub conversion is 10mm additional clearance pretty much free and clear. Should be cheap, too, given the glut of E9X 3-series at the junk yards.

Obviously I am biased having done the conversion preemptively.

Because I didn't want to start a thread like this.

[iminhell1]

It's easier to add spacer than remove.

But if he could find a E9x at some place like U-Pull, then he's into the conversion for dirt cheap.

[Expert@ApexWheels]

Sorry to hear about the fitment issues. This fitment is a rare one for us, but in most of the cases I've seen the 235/45-17 will fit. I suspect the added width of the RS-4 and the lowering is combining to make this setup rub. 235/40-17 was our standard recommendation for this setup on a few chassis including the 1 series for a few years because of its smaller diameter/easier fitment but we were getting quite a few complaints from customers about tire availability in that size so the baseline recommendation was changed to 235/45-17 which has worked for quite a few customers. I suspect that the shorter aspect ratio 235/40-17s would fix the problem, but you would need to switch tire models.

Do you know if the M3 links have a spacing effect when installed? I know we sometimes see fitment issues with the M3 arm conversions that space the wheel outward slightly up front so I'm wondering if they might also be contributing to this rubbing in the rear.

-Tom

[iminhell1]

I believe Chris has seen this --> https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1604010

[chris82]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

IMHO, don't f*ck your body up, do the narrow hub conversion. I looked at your build. Why cheap out now? Cuz it's easy?

Basically yes. I don't have time for anything else tbh

[chris82]

Originally Posted by Expert@ApexRaceParts

Sorry to hear about the fitment issues. This fitment is a rare one for us, but in most of the cases I've seen the 235/45-17 will fit. I suspect the added width of the RS-4 and the lowering is combining to make this setup rub. 235/40-17 was our standard recommendation for this setup on a few chassis including the 1 series for a few years because of its smaller diameter/easier fitment but we were getting quite a few complaints from customers about tire availability in that size so the baseline recommendation was changed to 235/45-17 which has worked for quite a few customers. I suspect that the shorter aspect ratio 235/40-17s would fix the problem, but you would need to switch tire models.

Do you know if the M3 links have a spacing effect when installed? I know we sometimes see fitment issues with the M3 arm conversions that space the wheel outward slightly up front so I'm wondering if they might also be contributing to this rubbing in the rear.

-Tom

Thank you for chiming in Tom.

I realized the car was lowered but figured with all the camber I run, the wheels/tires should be fine. I'm unsure about the M3 camber link and if it pushes the wheel out further, it may very well be the case. Regardless, will have this solved once the fenders are rolled. I will also look into a smaller sidewall tire for the next set as that seems to be another quick fix. Perhaps a 245 square is possible with a smaller sidewall and rolled fenders. Certainly can't see it being an issue in the front with how the 235 fit right now.

[Expert@ApexWheels]

Originally Posted by chris82

Thank you for chiming in Tom.

I realized the car was lowered but figured with all the camber I run, the wheels/tires should be fine. I'm unsure about the M3 camber link and if it pushes the wheel out further, it may very well be the case. Regardless, will have this solved once the fenders are rolled. I will also look into a smaller sidewall tire for the next set as that seems to be another quick fix. Perhaps a 245 square is possible with a smaller sidewall and rolled fenders. Certainly can't see it being an issue in the front with how the 235 fit right now.

After pouring through some threads, it doesn't seem like the camber link is the culprit here although someone else more well versed in rear suspension geometry may be able to confirm or deny this aspect of your issue. I've been going back and forth about updating the fitment guide with a few of my colleagues, but I definitely think it needs a note on that size which I'll add. The RS-4s have caused issues with some fitments in the past, so I suspect they are the primary cause of the rubbing.

I mentioned our newer 17x9 ET52 wheel coming out soon on another thread. Let me know if you are interested in a set of those. They will likely launch with a discount or group buy of some kind, but I can provide you an additional discount on top of that because of your fitment issue with this set based on our guide. DM me if that's an option you're interested in.

-Tom

[mindspin311]

Originally Posted by Expert@ApexRaceParts

I mentioned our newer 17x9 ET52 wheel coming out soon on another thread. Let me know if you are interested in a set of those. They will likely launch with a discount or group buy of some kind, but I can provide you an additional discount on top of that because of your fitment issue with this set based on our guide. DM me if that's an option you're interested in.

-Tom

Hey Tom, I would definitely be interested in that ET52 setup. Please keep me in mind for potential group buy participation.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Expert@ApexRaceParts

After pouring through some threads, it doesn't seem like the camber link is the culprit here although someone else more well versed in rear suspension geometry may be able to confirm or deny this aspect of your issue. I've been going back and forth about updating the fitment guide with a few of my colleagues, but I definitely think it needs a note on that size which I'll add. The RS-4s have caused issues with some fitments in the past, so I suspect they are the primary cause of the rubbing.

I mentioned our newer 17x9 ET52 wheel coming out soon on another thread. Let me know if you are interested in a set of those. They will likely launch with a discount or group buy of some kind, but I can provide you an additional discount on top of that because of your fitment issue with this set based on our guide. DM me if that's an option you're interested in.

-Tom

I couldn't find that other post you mentioned, do you guys happen to have a timeline for release of those? I was thinking of finally re-finishing my 18", but would kinda rather go for new 17's honestly.

[spidertri]

Wasn't planning on getting a new set of wheels, but I am very interested in the 17x9s as well. Especially if they are EC-7s or SM-10s...

[Expert@ApexWheels]

I don't want to hijack this thread too much, so I'll be brief. We will be launching the 17x9 ET52s with a Group Buy later this week or early next week. The wheels will be our ARC-8 design. ETA for the wheels is looking like late June depending on shipping logistics. We just sourced photography for these wheels yesterday which has been holding up our launch so we are working on the final details now. Here is a teaser to hold you over:

Wheels: 17x9" ET52 ARC-8
Tires: 255/40-17 Nitto NT01s

15mm front spacers.

I know many of you will have questions about these wheels, but I would encourage you to either wait until we have our Group Buy thread up or DM us directly and I'd be happy to answer what I can. I'll post a small bump here when that thread is live so those subscribed to this thread will be notified. Apologies for the distraction!

-Tom

[Expert@ApexWheels]

Apologies for the delay everyone, We've had a busy few weeks with our first in-person meeting at the APEX office since the start of COVID and a Laguna Seca team track day a week ago along with several new members joining our marketing team. I have more excuses regarding this delay than a racing driver, but onto the good stuff:

Our 17" Track wheel Group Buy is now live and can be found here: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...5#post27751655

Thanks for your patience! We hope to see you over on the other thread and on GangUp. More importantly, we hope to see you on track putting these wheels to the test!

Give us a wave if you overtake one of our cars. We won't be too mad.

-Tom