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      11-19-2018, 04:33 PM   #89
drwillb
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I know this thread has been kind of dead but I am alive and kicking.

Got a bit side tracked this summer. Had to tend to maintenance items and got carried away. Wound up putting a PS1 turbo in because "I was in there."

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1454708


Lately, I've been dealing with oil cooler problems and should have that resolved by this weekend.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1538694


When am going to get to the subframe? If there's a warm weekend in December, I may tackle it then. Otherwise, I'll wait for the spring thaw.
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2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD
Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i
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      01-06-2019, 06:05 PM   #90
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Still haven't gotten to the rear end but I took advantage of weather in the upper 40s and put my improved JB4 back in the car. Running with no tune for 3 weeks really sucked. I can't believe how lame 300 hp can feel.

Prior to Christmas, I ordered the latest JB4 board, a new boost solenoid wire (my connector broke), and the fuel sensor wires. I had bought my JB4 from these forums in 2016, shortly after buying my car and I didn't know much about the 1er at that point. Turns out I had a Stage 2 v1 board running my n55.

I'm glad to say I now have the n55 PWG v4 board with the fuel pressure sensor wires my harness was missing. I also removed the MAP and MAF wires since they were no longer needed, ran the JB4 +12v wire to the boost solenoid, and ran a +5v wire out for the bluetooth adapter. All was neatly packed in wire sleeving and heat shrink was used to keep things tidy.

I had bought the crimper and pin remover needed to work on the D-sub connector found on the JB4 harness but neither worked. The wire used on the harness is too thick so the pin removal tool will not work. Also, crimping new pins onto the thicker gauge wire required cutting a few strands of the copper conductor in order to make it work. I put the project aside for a week then found a D-sub connector on Amazon that uses screws to retain each wire. It's a little bigger but saved lots of headaches and cursing.

That problem solved, I then addressed the other annoying thing on the harness. The connector for the boost solenoid does not use sealed pins and is not waterproof as all factory BMW connectors. It may not seem like an absolute necessity but my 4 month old boost solenoid already had corrosion on both pins. I wire brushed those clean and then applied dielectric grease to protect them. The new fuel pressure wires from BMS were of the proper waterproof type but the old TMAP and new boost solenoid connectors were not. I used black RTV silicone to seal these up.

Prior to cutting the wires off the old D-sub, I made a diagram with wire-pin relationships. I'm glad to say that the car started right up and nothing got fried. I admit I was holding my breath and kept my fingers crossed.
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2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD
Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i
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      05-02-2020, 11:48 AM   #91
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It’s finally happening!!! Rear end swap time.

I’ve had plenty of free time over the last three weeks now that I’m self-unemployed. Unfortunately, the weather has been non-stop wet and chilly in north Jersey. Definitely the worst April on record.

The plan is:
Rear end swap with full M3 subframe. Only diff, axles, hubs, and calipers are used. Everything else is new.

New 1M driveshaft

Put the Y pipe on the PE exhaust

Get rid of the Vorschlag front camber plates. Put in Dinan fixed plates.

E46 tranny mounts.

Whatever else I can think of.
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      05-02-2020, 01:26 PM   #92
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Looking forward to seeing and hearing about the swap. Looks awesome.
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      05-11-2020, 06:35 PM   #93
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Well, 3 1/2 years and 1 pandemic later, the subframe is finally in!! I'm not going to go into the detail of how it's done since there are several write ups and YouTube videos to help get you through it. Actually, on paper, it's very simple: drop exhaust and driveshaft, disconnect parking brake and hydraulic lines, remove 4 subframe bolts and your done. Just like that, no sweat. I you look at Spencer's video on YouTube that exactly how it went for him. Great, I'm ready: did my homework, took notes, got all sorts of internet bookmarks, let's go.

Yeah, not so much. In theory, it's exactly as you'd expect. In actuality, the gremlins had a field day. I'm only going to go over the gremlins here since it really is a straight-forward job.

I'll mention some very helpful resources for doing the final bolt up. Between these and NewTIS.info you'll have everything you need:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1330067 great resource for M3 spec torque values. Just about every torque value needed is listed here.

Spencer's rear subframe video

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1117936 good subframe swap thread

http://www.onelapx1.com/blog/how-to-...w-actually-fun coding out the diff nannies. Don't forget to do this when you are done.



Here's basically how it went.....
1. remove underbody shields. Great confidence builder since pretty much nothing can go wrong here. Just make note of any missing fasteners so you can order them when done.

2. making great progress, let's take the exhaust down. This became gremlin number one when 3 out of the 4 studs snapped when trying to back off the nuts. I ran off to Harbor Freight for an air hammer, air saw, and 25" breaker bar, and some other stuff. ALL got used in this project. I knocked off the 4th stud with the hammer, finished removing the exhaust, and decided I would return to this at the end. You'll read about it further down.

3. drive shaft out. Front bolts easy after removing tranny support and placing jack under tranny. No big deal. Rear 50mm nut was unreal. This was gremlin #2. I had read that for some this came relatively easy, for others it was a bear. For me, it took everything I had and the 25" breaker bar to get this sucker moving. After over an hour of wrestling with this, I called in my 16 year old son, added the floor jack handle to the breaker bar and it was still a huge job getting the rear shaft nut completely loose. Major time drain. Two tips on this: a) look at the picture below, place a solid object at the center drive shaft joint to prevent it from turning b) when looking towards the rear of the car, turn the big nut clockwise to release it.

4. release brake lines. Gremlin #3 was waiting for me. I went to remove the rear rotors in order to release the parking brake cables. I guess 105k miles on the original brakes gave them a chance to really settle in on the drums. I could not remove the rotors as they were hung up on the brake shoes. I knew something was wrong because I'd been experiencing an intermittent scraping sound from the rear. I chose to ignore that since this job was coming up. It took Thor's Hammer (look at my previous posts) and a piece of 2x4 to knock the rotor off. It took so hefty hitting. Fortunately, rebuilding the parking brakes was on my to-do list from 3 years ago and I already had the parts. Gremlin 3-2 had to do with the hard brake lines on the chassis. These connect to the rubber inner lines that jump over to the subframe. I had a stainless line kit ready to go disconnecting all of the points was on the list. Well, one of the chassis tubes/pipes started to twist when I tried to back off the nut on the line. Looks like the nut had fused to the metal brake line. I snugged it all back up and figured "I'll get back to that." You'll see later.

5. final steps before dropping the frame. Since I was working alone I figured I'd remove a lot of the big components to make this lighter and easier handle. I disconnected the inner axle flanges then removed all control arms from the hub carriers and out came the axles and hubs. Bottom nut on shock absorbers were also removed. Calipers and rotors had already been removed. Pull the 4 bolts and down comes the subframe. Piece of cake. No gremlins here.

6. new frame goes in. Simple since I had made cradle to hold the fully assembled subframe. This this is easily over 300 lbs fully assembled and I'm working alone. Line up the cradle, drop the car onto the subframe, and pop in 4 bolts. Sweet, just like on TV Sunday morning shows or How It's Made.

7. control arms. Not so easy. I had not tightened anything on the subframe since the control arms need to be torqued with the hub at ride height (13 3/4" as per my friend's 7k mile full stock 1M). Here things got interesting. Seems that the combination of M3 rear sway bar and M3 rear spring make for a very stiff suspension. So stiff that jacking up the lower control arm at the hub ends up lifting the whole car without compressing the suspension. Curse, think, curse, re-think. Alright, remove the shock bolt, support the control arm, remove control arm bolt, remove spring, replace control arm bolt, don't connect shock, and now I can lift the lower arm. Great. Now to get at the bolt on the top two control arms and apply 74 ft-lbs torque. More fun. Eventually got all the arms done on both sides then had to re-install the springs and and shocks and settled for just torque them down wherever they were. I'll be taking the car in for an alignment so getting to the lower arm bolts at ride height on the alignment rack will be easy. This all took the better part of a day. Too much back and forth and tight spots and cursing.

7a. inboard axle flanges. I'm a do-it-once-do-it-right, spend-the-money-on-good-parts, while-you're-in-there kinda guy. The manual calls for new bolts on the axle flanges (and guibo and rear drive shaft CV joint) and I had not ordered any of those way back when. I went off to my local dealer to order all of the above. Drive shaft was about $60 for bolts. Axle bolts was $14 per bolt x 12. I bought the drive shaft bolts since they were going to get buried under layers of stuff and because these were all torque +degree bolts. The flange bolts I passed on because of expense, easy accessibility down the road, there was no +degrees after the 89 ft-lbs, and besides, I'd re-used flange bolts on several track cars with no problems. Besides that, my son said "There's 12 of them, how many are going to fail?" Good logic. I went with that.

8. brakes. Parking brakes is something I'd only done once before and using a generic tool for those damn return springs didn't make this job any fun. Simple but full PITA. Rotors and calipers I could do with my eyes closed. The calipers I had rebuilt a couple of years ago so I knew they were ready to drop in. No gremlins, just nasty return springs.

9. drive shaft. I used a brand new 1M shaft so no drama to be expected. This comes with brand new guibo, center bearing, and rear CV so there should be many miles of trouble free driving. No big deal to hang this up but I did get lost in what I thought was a problem. I put the shaft up and pushed the guibo bolts through after removing the cross brace. The bolts were hitting part of the tranny. Curse, think, curse, internet major research, try again. Seems that the shaft was tipped slightly and the bolts ran into interference. There's not much wiggle room in there. When everything was bolted up there was 2-3 mm clearance between the tip of the bolts and the tranny. Another time drain.

10. exhaust. I've had the PE exhaust in place for 4 years but never did the Y-pipe because I had a downpipe on the shelf and was waiting to see how that sounded before I cut off the resonator. The DP never went in and it probably won't now that I'm running JB4 w/BEF and a PS1 and because NJ is very strict about that sort of thing. There's an upward looking camera that the car gets driven over during DMV inspection and I rea lly don't want to hassle with DP bolts again. Yes, the gremlin at step 1 was back to haunt me: snapped DP studs. I did a lot of research and tried heat but I only have a propane torch. This might as well have been a Bic lighter. No good. I tried the air hammer. No good. Liquid Wrench soaking over several days did nothing. I had a ball joint tool that I thought I could use to push on the studs but it was too big. In the end, thank goodness I had a brand new drill bit set and I just went at it. I used 7 steps of bits with lots of lube. The key is to run the drill dead slow and let the tip of the drill bit bite its way through. As soon as you build rpm you get no bite and lots of friction and heat resulting in a dead drill bit. This was a solid 4 hours if not more for drilling. Fine, bolt up the exhaust, replace all the shields.

11. final testing. Car still on lift. Start the car. Yeah, gonna have to do the MHD cold start delete. Sounds fine after 30 seconds but loud before that. Good thing I didn't do the DP and Y-pipe. Put the car in gear, get the wheels spinning. No noises of any kind. Both wheels turning in same direction. Good. Test brakes. Hmm, pedal drops slowly. Stop car, get out, and look at brake fluid on the ground. Right, that brake line from a few days ago. Yeah, there had to be a final gremlin.

12. brake line. Curse, think, curse, research. I ordered a flare tool to make proper bubble flares, I also ordered a couple of unions, and I'll put them all to work. Access to the brake connection is way "in there." I've tried getting in to tighten the one nut but everything is just flexing and the nut isn't turning. The plan is to remove one control arm that is in the way, cut the hard brake line, and use the long steel pipe off the subframe I took off in order to repair the bad section. Fine, that's another couple of hours. Wait, better allow the better part of a day.

In all, I put 8 long days into this project. Not quite the slam dunk Spencer experienced. Why so much trouble? I think it comes down to an 8 year old car with 105k miles in the northeast with super salty winter roads. The DP studs and brake line are definitely attributable to that. The rear drive shaft nut? who knows? It wasn't rusty so maybe it was a gremlin.

If you think you want to do this it doesn't take a lot of skill but it does take a wide range of tools and you need a lift. I have a 36" lift and that was fine for clearance. However, a lot of it would have been much easier with a full lift. You are constantly looking for the right tool and being able to not have to roll and crawl out each time would be great.

Still to do: brake line, tranny and diff fluids, alignment, new summer tires. How about those front camber plates to be changed out? That'll have to wait. I'll live with the noise for now.
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2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD
Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i

Last edited by drwillb; 05-11-2020 at 09:08 PM..
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      05-14-2020, 06:35 PM   #94
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Alright, brake line is fixed!!

I was ready to cut and splice and get all insane with the problem but a good night's rest brought me off the ledge.

1. Access to the nuts on the hard lines coming from the front of the car was very difficult and even after engaging, I couldn't turn them much. I decided to cut the little extensions on the platform where the lines sit in order to get better access but then realized this would also allow me to get the whole line assembly down as follows.

2. Once the extensions were cut, bend the pressure spring things back so that the flexible hose and nut assembly could be pulled down. This allowed the engaging lobes on the connectors to come out of the anti-rotation notches in the platform. I used the Harbor Freight air saw I purchased a couple of weeks ago.

3. Now I could hold the top nut steady and back off the nut on the flexible hose. Cutting the hose with a dremel and disc at the metal crimped connector allowed me to get a deep socket over the nut.

4. Everything's apart, now put it back together. I had ordered crows foot flare nut wrenches and they came in last night. Couldn't have done it without these.

5. Test time. Bleed the brakes again, start the car, and stand on the brake pedal. No leaks!!
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2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD
Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i
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      05-15-2020, 09:25 AM   #95
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Dang that's a lot of work, looking for to hearing your review/impressions of the new setup.
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      05-15-2020, 07:46 PM   #96
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Where are you getting the super blue from, I miss that stuff.
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      05-16-2020, 01:02 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BronkaidBrah View Post
Where are you getting the super blue from, I miss that stuff.
NOS in my garage. That was my last can. I just ordered 2 cans of TYP200.

That stuff is so precious that I took what collected in the ziplock bag and put it back in the reservoir.
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2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD
Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i
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      05-16-2020, 01:07 PM   #98
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New tires and alignment this morning. This thing feels tight and tracks straight. No more jiggle mid turn.
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2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD
Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i
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      06-09-2020, 04:08 AM   #99
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Lots of pages to read, however i'm doing the conversion myself. Rear subframe is attached so far. Question for y'all, is the front conversion a simple pnp? Just looking to keep the brakes power equal. Is the front hubs interchangeable with the m3 knuckle/hubs and is able to reuse the 135i front subframe?

Last edited by Bluesz; 06-09-2020 at 04:37 AM.. Reason: my very poor grammar. it's probably still bad.
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      06-09-2020, 05:13 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesz View Post
Lots of pages to read, however i'm doing the conversion myself. Rear subframe is attached so far. Question for y'all, is the front conversion a simple pnp? Just looking to keep the brakes power equal. Is the front hubs interchangeable with the m3 knuckle/hubs and is able to reuse the 135i front subframe?
Overall, the front conversion is PnP simple bolt on, even the body panels.

Front subframe does not need to be changed. Front brakes will only fit an M3 knuckle/hub carrier not the 135 carrier. When you go to an M3 knuckle you will then need an M3 strut since the 135 strut will not fit.

If you are looking to “balance” the car you need to go all in and do the front sway bar and control arms as well.

Once the front suspension is done then you want to do the 1M fenders and bumper so you can get a bigger tire on the front. I run 255 square but could easily do 265.

All you need is time, skills, tools, and more money.

Last edited by drwillb; 06-09-2020 at 08:30 AM..
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      06-10-2020, 06:44 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesz View Post
Lots of pages to read, however i'm doing the conversion myself. Rear subframe is attached so far. Question for y'all, is the front conversion a simple pnp? Just looking to keep the brakes power equal. Is the front hubs interchangeable with the m3 knuckle/hubs and is able to reuse the 135i front subframe?
Overall, the front conversion is PnP simple bolt on, even the body panels.

Front subframe does not need to be changed. Front brakes will only fit an M3 knuckle/hub carrier not the 135 carrier. When you go to an M3 knuckle you will then need an M3 strut since the 135 strut will not fit.

If you are looking to "balance" the car you need to go all in and do the front sway bar and control arms as well.

Once the front suspension is done then you want to do the 1M fenders and bumper so you can get a bigger tire on the front. I run 255 square but could easily do 265.

All you need is time, skills, tools, and more money.
Thank you for the reply!
Looks like you completed the swap, did you have to change/upgrade the brake booster as well?
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      06-10-2020, 10:27 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesz View Post
Thank you for the reply!
Looks like you completed the swap, did you have to change/upgrade the brake booster as well?
I have not upgraded the booster and master....yet. Both are sitting on my bench.

I also have the steering rack and collapsible joint.
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2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD
Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i
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      06-13-2020, 10:36 AM   #103
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Awesome write up, looks very good!
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      10-07-2020, 06:36 PM   #104
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Awesome stuff! Thank you for documenting your build - it’s a good wealth of information - just the thread I’ve been looking for

I’m at the point where I need to upgrade to the M3 front wheel carrier/knuckle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
Overall, the front conversion is PnP simple bolt on, even the body panels.

Front subframe does not need to be changed. Front brakes will only fit an M3 knuckle/hub carrier not the 135 carrier. When you go to an M3 knuckle you will then need an M3 strut since the 135 strut will not fit.

If you are looking to “balance” the car you need to go all in and do the front sway bar and control arms as well.

Once the front suspension is done then you want to do the 1M fenders and bumper so you can get a bigger tire on the front. I run 255 square but could easily do 265.

All you need is time, skills, tools, and more money.
So is it just the following two parts that bolt right on, to fit M3 struts?

1) M3 front wheel carrier/knuckle 31-21-2-283-435
2) M3 front wheel bearing and hub assembly 31-22-2-282-670

Parts #2 & #6 in the diagram below:
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      10-07-2020, 06:54 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1spirit View Post
Awesome stuff! Thank you for documenting your build - it’s a good wealth of information - just the thread I’ve been looking for

I’m at the point where I need to upgrade to the M3 front wheel carrier/knuckle.



So is it just the following two parts that bolt right on, to fit M3 struts?

1) M3 front wheel carrier/knuckle 31-21-2-283-435
2) M3 front wheel bearing and hub assembly 31-22-2-282-670

Parts #2 & #6 in the diagram below:
Yes, those two parts are needed. Are you also doing the M3 control arms and tie rod? If you do the control arms then the tie rod is necessary because the 135 rod is a bit shorter and you end up needing to wind out the end fitting so it’s not biting a lot of threads on the rod. That’s my understanding. The 135 rod tie rod will work but may become a safety issue. I do recommend the control arms because of the bearings vs. bushings on the ends. You have to read the posts by Felix for this.

You’re also going to need sway bar links. These have a different pickup point on the M than on the 135.

If you’re doing the control arms then you’ll also need the specific headlight leveling sensor.

As I stated in a post above: if you're going to do the front end, do all the bits for the front. Yes, it's expensive but the car is totally transformed. I ran the car with full 1M front and full stock rear for 3 years and it was SO much better than stock. Running the 255 tires all around and much tighter M front was a huge improvement. Adding all the rear parts makes you realize why the 1M is so highly regarded.

Any way, I used the threads by TUN3D to guide me through this. His work was documented down to the nut and bolt. My goal was not to re-write a how-to. My focus has been on documenting problems that come up when going through this build.

I couldn't have done it without this:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862256


Here's the front end thread. This includes a full parts list with parts numbers:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1058161

Last edited by drwillb; 10-07-2020 at 07:06 PM..
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      10-07-2020, 07:40 PM   #106
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Yes, I have all the popular M3 bits in the front, including the sway bar and control arms. Good call on the tie rod - will have to get those too.

I have the HPA adjustable sway bar endlinks so that should be no problem with the different pickup point.

Car has the non-M Ohlins kit which has been performing beautifully for both the street and track, but I’ve been experiencing coil bind on the 7” front springs (7kg/mm, or 392lb/in) which are needed for adequate tire clearance. Unfortunately, with the non-M dampers, there needs to be a good amount of preload for proper fitment in our chassis, which does not help coil bind. The tire is also rubbing away at the metal next to the strut tower on hard compression at the track.

The best solution would be to upgrade to the 1M Ohlins front dampers, where the preload adjustment is independent of the spring perch/height adjustment (plus better valving), and what you did to the front is the ticket

I’ll read up on the threads by fe1rx and TUN3D - thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
Yes, those two parts are needed. Are you also doing the M3 control arms and tie rod? If you do the control arms then the tie rod is necessary because the 135 rod is a bit shorter and you end up needing to wind out the end fitting so it’s not biting a lot of threads on the rod. That’s my understanding. The 135 rod tie rod will work but may become a safety issue. I do recommend the control arms because of the bearings vs. bushings on the ends. You have to read the posts by Felix for this.

You’re also going to need sway bar links. These have a different pickup point on the M than on the 135.

If you’re doing the control arms then you’ll also need the specific headlight leveling sensor.

As I stated in a post above: if you're going to do the front end, do all the bits for the front. Yes, it's expensive but the car is totally transformed. I ran the car with full 1M front and full stock rear for 3 years and it was SO much better than stock. Running the 255 tires all around and much tighter M front was a huge improvement. Adding all the rear parts makes you realize why the 1M is so highly regarded.

Any way, I used the threads by TUN3D to guide me through this. His work was documented down to the nut and bolt. My goal was not to re-write a how-to. My focus has been on documenting problems that come up when going through this build.

I couldn't have done it without this:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862256


Here's the front end thread. This includes a full parts list with parts numbers:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1058161
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      09-21-2023, 08:55 AM   #107
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Hi. Do you know how much wider is M3 rear suspension vs 135? Ie say I put in rear subframe from m3 with all extra bits, how much wider do the wheels sit
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      09-21-2023, 10:07 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by us722 View Post
Hi. Do you know how much wider is M3 rear suspension vs 135? Ie say I put in rear subframe from m3 with all extra bits, how much wider do the wheels sit
It's been 3 years so I'm going from memory.

If you are doing a full swap with LSD, axles, and M3 hubs then the face of the hubs end up 10mm inboard of the 135 hubs. That's 10mm per side. So, the width is actually narrower but it offers much more options for wheels. Track width is still limited by the fenders.
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2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD
Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i
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      09-21-2023, 04:48 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
It's been 3 years so I'm going from memory.

If you are doing a full swap with LSD, axles, and M3 hubs then the face of the hubs end up 10mm inboard of the 135 hubs. That's 10mm per side. So, the width is actually narrower but it offers much more options for wheels. Track width is still limited by the fenders.

Maybe it’s the other way around? I found this guy after some googling:


Compared to the 2011 BMW 135i Coupe, the 1 Series M Coupe is 0.2 inches (5mm) longer, 2.1 inches (53mm) wider, 0.5 inches (13mm) taller, and rides on the same 104.7 inch (2659mm) wheelbase.

https://www.bmwblog.com/2010/12/10/bmw-1m-full-specifications/#:~:text=Front%20and%20rear%20track%20widths,104.7 %20inch%20(2659mm)%20wheelbase.
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      09-21-2023, 05:14 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by us722 View Post
Maybe it’s the other way around? I found this guy after some googling:


Compared to the 2011 BMW 135i Coupe, the 1 Series M Coupe is 0.2 inches (5mm) longer, 2.1 inches (53mm) wider, 0.5 inches (13mm) taller, and rides on the same 104.7 inch (2659mm) wheelbase.

https://www.bmwblog.com/2010/12/10/b...m)%20wheelbase.
You are stating body dimensions not dimensions related to the subframe. Yes, of course the 1M body is wider, just look at the bulging fenders.
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2012 135i Mods: air scoops, CP, K&N filter, PS1, ADE FMIC, BMW PE, JB4, 1M front body, full M3 suspension front and rear, M3 brakes front and rear, M3 rear subframe and LSD
Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i
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