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      03-12-2018, 07:39 AM   #89
RyanDavies
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FWIW, my 2012 128i M-Sport had glued-on front sway bar bushings. I wanted to swap back to the stock bar to test at some point and realized it was fruitless because no matter what I'd do I'd be fighting bar bind, couldn't separate easily without starting to destroy the bushing, so gave up. Don't recall the rear, but don't think there.
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      03-12-2018, 07:53 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
FWIW, my 2012 128i M-Sport had glued-on front sway bar bushings. I wanted to swap back to the stock bar to test at some point and realized it was fruitless because no matter what I'd do I'd be fighting bar bind, couldn't separate easily without starting to destroy the bushing, so gave up. Don't recall the rear, but don't think there.
That's because 128i M Sport cars didn't have a rear bar.
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      03-12-2018, 09:21 AM   #91
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I stand corrected. I have never seen or heard of this before, and it goes against everything you want a bar to do. Bbanks, sorry then. I guess I am wrong. I have had the bushings off so many car's swaybars, and never seen them adhered to the bar.
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      03-12-2018, 09:58 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
That's because 128i M Sport cars didn't have a rear bar.
Mine certainly did.
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      03-12-2018, 10:49 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
Mine certainly did.
Whoops, other way around. The non-128 M Sports had no rear bar
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      03-12-2018, 10:55 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
I stand corrected. I have never seen or heard of this before, and it goes against everything you want a bar to do. Bbanks, sorry then. I guess I am wrong. I have had the bushings off so many car's swaybars, and never seen them adhered to the bar.
No apologies needed. I didn't know any of this either until a few weeks ago when I put my stock sway back in. Now I know and after all these years of no one mentioning stuff like this lol. It's definitely something to consider when changing springs rates and sways because a binding bushing will have consequences for effective wheel rates in ALL situations and not just in roll. Seems like a cost saving driven alternative on BMWs part. A 350lb front spring with a binding stock sway is probably stiffer on corner entry then a 450lb spring and an aftermarket bar that doesn't contribute to the effective wheel rate under compression at corner entry.

Last edited by bbnks2; 03-12-2018 at 11:12 AM..
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      03-13-2018, 01:49 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
That's because 128i M Sport cars didn't have a rear bar.
I promise you it did, it took like 4 damn hours to yank it out and put the other one in, lol.

Lots of modern FWD cars have this with their rear bars.
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      03-14-2018, 04:09 PM   #96
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Interesting that seem people's bars have glued on bushings. That certainly wasn't the case for my OEM front bar. I ground down the bushing base and shimmed it so it's currently bind-free.

Been playing with my drift car recently, so the 1'er hasn't been getting much attention. Going to drop the subframe and install the 18mm UUC bar in short order.
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      04-04-2018, 11:43 AM   #97
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Updating this for any one who is interested:

Installed the UUC rear bar. Took about 3 hours, was easier than I remember it being.

Went to Willow Springs this past weekend, and with the bar set to it's softer setting the car is delightful to drive. Seriously. This is how a rear-wheel drive car is supposed to feel. Nice and throttle adjustable, understeer all but vanquished.

For context, I picked up 10 MPH of cornering speed (that's not a typo) through T2 at Big Willow because the car no longer understeers it's front tires to death through the entire corner. I tried all sorts of different lines:

- Outside line with late apex
- An "In-Out-In" line
- The middle of the road line

Any way I tried it, the car handled beautifully. Only managed to pick up 2 seconds of lap time because I was contesting with traffic. It's very annoying when McLaren drivers with egos won't let you pass and block the track. I'm guessing once I dialed the car in, I could have run a 1:32-33 at Big Willow.

Even more annoying is cording another fucking tire in the second session, ending my day. This is the second set of Nexens I've corded the outside edge of on the rear tires. Even with rear camber at -2.3. Moving on. These tires are fast, but absolute junk and cannot handle limit driving.
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      04-04-2018, 11:54 AM   #98
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Damn. That is impressive. Very impressive. Thanks for the update.

Just because I am lazy, can you remind us of your current spring/sway bar set up? Obviously, the UUC rear bar, but what is the front?
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      04-04-2018, 12:03 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Damn. That is impressive. Very impressive. Thanks for the update.

Just because I am lazy, can you remind us of your current spring/sway bar set up? Obviously, the UUC rear bar, but what is the front?
Suspension:

- TCK S/A shocks
- 336F/700R springs
- OEM 135i front bar shimmed, with modified bushings to fix binding.
- UUC rear bar

Alignment:

Front: -3.3* camber, 0 toe, 7* caster
Rear: -2.3* camber, 1/8" total toe-in

Until I ran the Nexens, I actually had rear camber set at -1.7 and had literally perfect rear tire wear. Corded a pair of SUR4 in 1.5 track days with this setup. Changed it to -2.3*, which is the maximum you can get out the stock arms, and got 2.25 track days on a new set before cording the outside edge, again.

I've run some fast lap times on the Nexens, but the astronomical cost of having to junk two sets of them within 4 events, is too much to handle.

Also, just bought a front BBK for the car, and I'm super duper broke now, so I'm taking a forced respite from track days for a bit.
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      04-04-2018, 12:21 PM   #100
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Watched one of your videos and notice you double clutch on downshifts. I was just wondering why you prefer that method vs. just a single clutch cycle?

Last edited by mKilgore; 04-04-2018 at 12:28 PM..
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      04-04-2018, 04:44 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mKilgore View Post
Watched one of your videos and notice you double clutch on downshifts. I was just wondering why you prefer that method vs. just a single clutch cycle?
I've had a number of cars with shitty transmissions, or worn out synchros. At this point, it's become habitual, and smoother rhythmically for me to do it that way.
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      04-05-2018, 08:03 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Damn. That is impressive. Very impressive. Thanks for the update.

Just because I am lazy, can you remind us of your current spring/sway bar set up? Obviously, the UUC rear bar, but what is the front?
Suspension:

- TCK S/A shocks
- 336F/700R springs
- OEM 135i front bar shimmed, with modified bushings to fix binding.
- UUC rear bar

Alignment:

Front: -3.3* camber, 0 toe, 7* caster
Rear: -2.3* camber, 1/8" total toe-in

Until I ran the Nexens, I actually had rear camber set at -1.7 and had literally perfect rear tire wear. Corded a pair of SUR4 in 1.5 track days with this setup. Changed it to -2.3*, which is the maximum you can get out the stock arms, and got 2.25 track days on a new set before cording the outside edge, again.

I've run some fast lap times on the Nexens, but the astronomical cost of having to junk two sets of them within 4 events, is too much to handle.

Also, just bought a front BBK for the car, and I'm super duper broke now, so I'm taking a forced respite from track days for a bit.
try the Hankook RS4s. i have them on my daily A3 that sees some track time. they are pretty good and around the same price. the a3 suffers from no camber and the rs4s have held up great. no excessive outside wear at all
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      04-05-2018, 08:35 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortShift View Post
try the Hankook RS4s. i have them on my daily A3 that sees some track time. they are pretty good and around the same price. the a3 suffers from no camber and the rs4s have held up great. no excessive outside wear at all
That's my next move, once I sell some non-vital body parts. I ran RS3's for years, and RS2's before that. Have a connection within Hankook who can hopefully knock a touch off the price tag for me.
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Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18
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