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08-08-2016, 05:01 PM | #1 |
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60k maintenance on a N55?
So I'm due for an oil change, and I figure I may use this opportunity to do a little checkup on the car. Any input on some things I should do?
Past maintenance (all done in the last 8k miles): New waterpump New thermostat New expansion tank Full coolant flush New valve cover New spark plugs New idler pulley |
08-08-2016, 06:05 PM | #2 |
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Power-steering, transmission, and differential fluid. Mine were all black at 75k. Maybe clean the boost solenoids? Definitely check for any sings of gasket leaks. Other than that? Don't make problems where there are none. You should've installed a DV+ while you had the water pump out
If you haven't done it yet, upgrade your transmission mounts. It take 5 minutes to do and will make a world of difference in shifting. I was getting locked out of gears during hard pulls and while turning. Now I can shift at redline again without a hitch. Go with UUC. The m3 mounts are just as soft as stock. I actually filled my stock mounts with Liquid Nail polyurethane (6.99). The result is a solid bushing about the same durometer as the solid UUC mounts. Just requires a day or two to let them "cure." Last edited by bNks334; 08-08-2016 at 06:11 PM.. |
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08-08-2016, 08:32 PM | #3 |
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Good tips on the fluids, I'm fairly certain the previous owner did the transmission fluid around 45k but I'll double check.
I've read the transmission mounts add a lot more unwanted noise, is that true? |
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08-08-2016, 08:42 PM | #4 |
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I want to say that because the mounts are stiffer they do indeed make a few other things clunk a bit when not shifting smoothly on cold starts. If you're smooth with the clutch there are no additional noises though.
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08-09-2016, 10:01 AM | #6 |
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I would change your brake fluid(every two years), (engine)air filter, diff fluid, maybe your dct trans fluid.
Also check your polly ribbed alt/ps belt, wipers and your brakes for wear(and parking brake).
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08-09-2016, 04:16 PM | #7 | |
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My BMS catch can hasn't caught a single drop of oil in the past year. There is still some oil residue built up at the throttle body though. I'm sure my valves are black but I doubt there is any actual buildup of material like n54's see. |
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08-09-2016, 04:22 PM | #8 | ||
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08-10-2016, 07:39 PM | #9 | |
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A catch can is cheap insurance, but a valve cleaning is a waste of money if the cars not displaying any symptoms. |
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02-15-2019, 06:24 PM | #10 |
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Bump to this thread.
I did some normal maintenance when I bought my car around 35k (air filter, spark plugs, some other fluid changes). I'll have to check my log... which apparently I haven't kept between phone switches so I'll have to boot up my old phone. I'm thinking that I should probably do spark plugs, air filter, power steering fluid flush, and...? I'm on a DCT 135is. Changing belts would be a real PITA since this is a 135is convertible. (Doing the oil filter housing gasket was a nightmare enough. I don't look forward to doing spark plugs again either.) I've considered doing a walnut blast but I don't have an air compressor and I'd be doing it on the street as with all my normal work. Feels like this work might take longer than an 8 hour day and I have to get it all done in those 8 hours of light. (And, of course, who knows if it'll be raining or not! That'll be fun to work in...) |
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07-13-2019, 04:02 PM | #11 |
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Bump. Anyone got more things to add here? I'm about to do the 60k+ maintenance. I'm at 65k and been putting it off. Gonna do an oil change, change air filters, spark plugs, and what else?
Wish we could link a bunch of guides for everything. |
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07-13-2019, 06:12 PM | #12 | |
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Dack
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