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      06-28-2020, 03:04 PM   #177
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Haven't updated this in a little bit since I haven't really done much to the car besides drive it.

Got my 335i front brakes on. Grabbed some $80 calipers off eBay, spent a few months slooowwwly cleaning them up and painting them. New seals too.

Gave the brakes and clutch a full flush too. 2 years is definitely long enough for the fluid to get nasty!

As for coding/brake biasing - a Porsche tech told me not to worry much about the larger piston, stating the slave cylinder and proportioning valve will make a much larger difference.

That said, I did add +SPBR to my VO to "retrofit" performance brakes and that definitely improved pedal feel. Thinking of just adding the 42mm rear 328i calipers so the increase in piston size is sort of proportional between front and rear. The rears could use a good clean-up anyway, and why not just rebuild them.
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      02-02-2021, 09:12 PM   #178
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Swapped my interior to terracotta leather!! The beige was aging terribly
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      02-03-2021, 09:05 AM   #179
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Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
Swapped my interior to terracotta leather!! The beige was aging terribly
What'd the full swap run you? Were you able to find a full donor car?

Also, trying to get some details on your exhaust setup. When you say 392 Scatpack Charger "straight-thru" muffler, what do you mean by that? The most applicable thing to our cars that Google found was a Vibrant 1142.
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      02-03-2021, 04:52 PM   #180
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What'd the full swap run you? Were you able to find a full donor car?

Also, trying to get some details on your exhaust setup. When you say 392 Scatpack Charger "straight-thru" muffler, what do you mean by that? The most applicable thing to our cars that Google found was a Vibrant 1142.
I bought it piece by piece, a mix of online and local. Not a good financial decision at all.

So my old roommate has a 2018? Scatpack Charger that he did a muffler delete to and he gave me both mufflers. I used one in place of the stock muffler, and kept the stock resonator. It's like half the size and you can look straight through it - unlike the stock one where it's spaghetti inside.

Look for Mopar dudes who just did an exhaust to see if they'd sell it
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      06-27-2021, 08:41 AM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
Swapped my interior to terracotta leather!! The beige was aging terribly
Really like those terracotta leather! Could be wrong, but don't recall any of the 1 series coming with this interior color. Just curious which car did you pull these off and how did you get the matching door cards? Would love to do the same to my car. Were you able to replace the black door card to terracotta at the rear seats?
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      06-27-2021, 06:23 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WgSo View Post
Really like those terracotta leather! Could be wrong, but don't recall any of the 1 series coming with this interior color. Just curious which car did you pull these off and how did you get the matching door cards? Would love to do the same to my car. Were you able to replace the black door card to terracotta at the rear seats?
It did come for the 1 series, this is "(LWB8) Terracotta Boston Leather". Just flipped thru the 2009 catalog and the 2013 one. Seems it wasn't available for all years - the 2009 catalog doesn't list. Pic is from 2013.

Found all the pieces on eBay. Front seats are out of a 330i, rear seats E82 of course. Door cards are from an E88 convertible. And no sadly I don't have the rear seat lateral panels/cards. They exist but they're really hard to find, so black substituted for now. Won't spend the money at the dealership either.

Something weird, the center console armrest, door card armrests, and I think the door card inserts are leather on the E88 convertible, but continue to be vinyl even if you get leather seats on your E82 coupe. Soooo I got a leather center armrest without the phone wire

More weirdness, if I remember right, the NA market for E82/E88 called this color "terracotta", while everywhere else it's just "terra". You can see on other models that "terracotta" is lighter and more orange.
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      07-15-2021, 06:51 PM   #183
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Very intrigued about the MAF delete and replacing it with an IAT sensor. Have a few questions for you if you don't mind.
  • What are the benefits of doing this, what kind of gains did you measured or experienced?
  • Any negatives to doing this mod?
  • Is the IAT sensor plug and play, as in, does not require additional parts/adapter to install and car functions without additional coding? If not, do you mind providing all the necessary things and procedure to installing it?
  • What tune currently can take advantage of this that would also support 3SIM, headers, and MILVS for an automatic car? If there are multiple, do you recommend a specific one?
  • Might end up buying a new Euro Intake from ECS, it comes with a tiny sensor. Do you know if that is the IAT you have listed in your first post?

I know this is a large set of questions, once again, hope you don't mind.

Thanks in advance!

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      07-20-2021, 11:17 AM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WgSo View Post
desertman123

Very intrigued about the MAF delete and replacing it with an IAT sensor. Have a few questions for you if you don't mind.
  • What are the benefits of doing this, what kind of gains did you measured or experienced?
  • Any negatives to doing this mod?
  • Is the IAT sensor plug and play, as in, does not require additional parts/adapter to install and car functions without additional coding? If not, do you mind providing all the necessary things and procedure to installing it?
  • What tune currently can take advantage of this that would also support 3SIM, headers, and MILVS for an automatic car? If there are multiple, do you recommend a specific one?
  • Might end up buying a new Euro Intake from ECS, it comes with a tiny sensor. Do you know if that is the IAT you have listed in your first post?

I know this is a large set of questions, once again, hope you don't mind.

Thanks in advance!

The gains are, as always, up for debate. But the main benefit is throttle response and feel. I haven't driven a MAF car in a while to compare but I just remember it being more consistent and smooth with the IAT. You can also see it's like a 1/4 of the size as the MAF and doesn't disrupt the airflow - which in itself will be negligible but combined with the rest of the intake tract and tune ends smoothing the whole experience.

No negatives as long as you install the proper tune, and reset adaptations afterwards. If you don't, the DME won't allow throttle input while you're on the brakes (so no heel toe)

It is 100% plug and play physically. Same connector as the MAF and occupies the exact same spot. You need a tune to coincide. Bimmerlabs has one available. The difference in the tune is that it now reads AFRs primarily off the O2 sensors and not as a calculation of the mass flow in the intake. Hassmachine argues that this is more how BMW intended this motor to run, while the MAF is mainly to help the US emissions monitoring systems.

You'll have to talk to Bob at Stage FP to see if he supports the Euro IAT. Kassell Performance is another option to ask. I'm personally running a custom Bimmerlabs tune.

That little sensor inside that airbox is your Euro IAT
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      07-20-2021, 12:13 PM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
The gains are, as always, up for debate. But the main benefit is throttle response and feel. I haven't driven a MAF car in a while to compare but I just remember it being more consistent and smooth with the IAT. You can also see it's like a 1/4 of the size as the MAF and doesn't disrupt the airflow - which in itself will be negligible but combined with the rest of the intake tract and tune ends smoothing the whole experience.

No negatives as long as you install the proper tune, and reset adaptations afterwards. If you don't, the DME won't allow throttle input while you're on the brakes (so no heel toe)

It is 100% plug and play physically. Same connector as the MAF and occupies the exact same spot. You need a tune to coincide. Bimmerlabs has one available. The difference in the tune is that it now reads AFRs primarily off the O2 sensors and not as a calculation of the mass flow in the intake. Hassmachine argues that this is more how BMW intended this motor to run, while the MAF is mainly to help the US emissions monitoring systems.

You'll have to talk to Bob at Stage FP to see if he supports the Euro IAT. Kassell Performance is another option to ask. I'm personally running a custom Bimmerlabs tune.

That little sensor inside that airbox is your Euro IAT
Has BimmerLabs gotten cruise control working on their MAFless tunes?
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      07-20-2021, 02:39 PM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Popov View Post
Has BimmerLabs gotten cruise control working on their MAFless tunes?
Don't think anyone on the 325/328 side has had issues. It might be only broken on the 128i

Completely forgot to mention that - I'm so used to not having it.
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      07-20-2021, 09:02 PM   #187
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desertman123 Thanks a lot for the detail reply, this has been very insightful and helpful.

Additional questions on the IAT. According to ECS, the IAT is 2 pin, while the MAF has 5 pins, just want to double confirm that it's the same part you mention and still plug and play?

Will the bimmerlab tune work on an automatic car?

If I go with Bob/StageFP, I may go down to him and get a Dyno tune. To save money, I plan on installing the parts on my own before driving down. If I install either or both the IAT and AA Header, do you know if the car would still run without a tune right away?
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      11-06-2021, 10:12 PM   #188
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Finally started my Euro xenon retrofit.

My DEPOs were really on their last legs. The lights turned on, that's about it. The lens fogged up quiet fast, they let it in moisture, and the plastic just crumbled apart. Looked decent enough for what was originally a halogen car though. The driver's side one must've gotten cooked from the lack of airflow by the airbox. I grabbed onto it to remove it and the whole thing just caved in.

The retrofit is quite a project. Finally did enough research to make it manageable though. I got the upgraded FRM installed and coded - added $522 to my VO. The actual headlight install is very easy, remove the bumper and out they come. Nice to remove all the extra wiring, ballasts, cancellers, etc. from the aftermarket lights.

Now I just need to work on wiring. Unfortunately this is something that differs from E90. The 3 series guys need to bridge a few wires and they'll be up and running. Not the case for us. When you tell the car you now have the xenon light option, it moves which pins are active on the lighting computer. Specifically, I need to move the angel eye and high beam shutter wires. You can hijack the old high beam and side light wires that already run to the computer, and just change their spots on either end.

After that, I need to install the headlight level sensors and their wires. I have the rear sensor in and the wires running to the FRM, but not pinned in. I haven't even started the front. Got all the parts I need sitting in a few boxes - I ordered parts from BMW and also cut up a junkyard E90 for a bunch of connectors/wires/pins.


https://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewto...0ea2d#p1171162


Also check out the other needy car that takes up all my time (1992 Honda Beat).

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WgSo View Post
desertman123 Thanks a lot for the detail reply, this has been very insightful and helpful.

Additional questions on the IAT. According to ECS, the IAT is 2 pin, while the MAF has 5 pins, just want to double confirm that it's the same part you mention and still plug and play?

Will the bimmerlab tune work on an automatic car?

If I go with Bob/StageFP, I may go down to him and get a Dyno tune. To save money, I plan on installing the parts on my own before driving down. If I install either or both the IAT and AA Header, do you know if the car would still run without a tune right away?
Yes plug and play. The bimmerlab tune should work regardless. Not sure if StageFP supports the Euro IAT/MAF delete. But the car will run mostly fine on a stock tune even if you're full bolt-on
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      11-06-2021, 11:05 PM   #189
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Quote:
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What the f*ck is this abomination?

Sorry. Was that too judgy? At least post a trigger warning.
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      11-07-2021, 08:12 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
What the f*ck is this abomination?

Sorry. Was that too judgy? At least post a trigger warning.
TW: 4yr old DEPO V2s

Well if you needed ANY more affirmation to never buy aftermarket lights, there it is. Like I mentioned before, I guess the air stagnated between the airbox and headlight and just roasted the sh*t out of it. The plastic pulls apart like a tenderly cooked rib.
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      05-01-2022, 11:22 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatd you do to your 1 series today thread
On Facebook a few of the guys were talking about this aluminum valve cover made for the blacktop/plastic N52 VC motors. Being that I was already in the midst of trying to use the original magnesium cover, I jumped on it quickly.

It's an eBay original part - not exactly what I was trying to toss on the car but I've multiple positive reviews from other people. It comes with gaskets, although I used all OEM Rein/whoever gaskets instead.

The build quality I'd give an 8 or 9 out of 10. It's quite nice, especially for the price, but you do have to nudge it back and forth a little to get everything to line up, and it won't perfectly. Cast piece with machined gasket mating surfaces.

The PCV system is interesting. There's a removable chamber on top which go to the internal breathers, and the PCV valve itself (which appears serviceable - wonder if it just takes the normal PCV valve spring/diaphragm you can find easily these days). I didn't bother opening it up.

Definitely a little heavier than stock. (edit, Plastic is 7.5 lbs, Mg is 5lbs, Al is 9 lbs) Makes it even more of a pain to install.

Also used the opportunity to install a new PCV hose, Eldor ignition coils, a new intake VANOS solenoid and a few missing nuts/screws around the engine bay. Car runs sooo smooth now.
To add, I was originally going to swap the magnesium cover on, but that ended up being way too much of a pain.

What's required, in case anyone is thinking of doing it:

- Magnesium cover (obv), beauty cover with mounting bracket, hardware, etc.
- Oil pan with drain tube for external PCV (specific to manual/auto)
- The entire external PCV system (need to check if you have a 1 or 2 port intake manifold)
- Carve out a weekend to do a tandem valve cover and oil pan job + extras
- Handful of little things needed, brackets to hold the external PCV onto the manifold, this electrical distribution plug to split power to all the PCV heating elements
- The wiring harnesses are actually different between the silver and black top motors. The blacktop harness will be stretched unless you extend it, shave the Mg cover a little bit, swap the harness, etc. You can see it in this video series (he ended up going custom PCV with a catch can too).

I bought nearly everything before I found out there's an Al version of the plastic cover. Immediately returned it all, sold the cover/oil pan and bought the easy way out. So glad I did.
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      05-01-2022, 03:12 PM   #192
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I'm looking at eBay now and I see a listing for a "filemoto", and there is a discounted scratched/return (or something) VC for $140. Did the box that it came in say where it was made? Wondering if this an example of a Chinese knockoff, but one that was engineered to be improved. Also does it use the OEM VC gasket when the one it came with needs to be replaced?

So did ya do the MILVS "while you were in there"...I mean you took a pic with them centered...
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      05-01-2022, 05:38 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrathOTM View Post
I'm looking at eBay now and I see a listing for a "filemoto", and there is a discounted scratched/return (or something) VC for $140. Did the box that it came in say where it was made? Wondering if this an example of a Chinese knockoff, but one that was engineered to be improved. Also does it use the OEM VC gasket when the one it came with needs to be replaced?

So did ya do the MILVS "while you were in there"...I mean you took a pic with them centered...
No sadly no specifics, it was just a normal box with the VC and a bag of bolts in there. And yep the normal OEM gaskets fit just fine.

And no I did those years ago haha just wanted to take a picture.
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      05-12-2022, 04:20 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatd you do to your 1 series today thread
On Facebook a few of the guys were talking about this aluminum valve cover made for the blacktop/plastic N52 VC motors. Being that I was already in the midst of trying to use the original magnesium cover, I jumped on it quickly.

It's an eBay original part - not exactly what I was trying to toss on the car but I've multiple positive reviews from other people. It comes with gaskets, although I used all OEM Rein/whoever gaskets instead.

The build quality I'd give an 8 or 9 out of 10. It's quite nice, especially for the price, but you do have to nudge it back and forth a little to get everything to line up, and it won't perfectly. Cast piece with machined gasket mating surfaces.

The PCV system is interesting. There's a removable chamber on top which go to the internal breathers, and the PCV valve itself (which appears serviceable - wonder if it just takes the normal PCV valve spring/diaphragm you can find easily these days). I didn't bother opening it up.

Definitely a little heavier than stock. (edit, Plastic is 7.5 lbs, Mg is 5lbs, Al is 9 lbs) Makes it even more of a pain to install.

Also used the opportunity to install a new PCV hose, Eldor ignition coils, a new intake VANOS solenoid and a few missing nuts/screws around the engine bay. Car runs sooo smooth now.
To add, I was originally going to swap the magnesium cover on, but that ended up being way too much of a pain.

What's required, in case anyone is thinking of doing it:

- Magnesium cover (obv), beauty cover with mounting bracket, hardware, etc.
- Oil pan with drain tube for external PCV (specific to manual/auto)
- The entire external PCV system (need to check if you have a 1 or 2 port intake manifold)
- Carve out a weekend to do a tandem valve cover and oil pan job + extras
- Handful of little things needed, brackets to hold the external PCV onto the manifold, this electrical distribution plug to split power to all the PCV heating elements
- The wiring harnesses are actually different between the silver and black top motors. The blacktop harness will be stretched unless you extend it, shave the Mg cover a little bit, swap the harness, etc. You can see it in this video series (he ended up going custom PCV with a catch can too).

I bought nearly everything before I found out there's an Al version of the plastic cover. Immediately returned it all, sold the cover/oil pan and bought the easy way out. So glad I did.
Thanks for posting this! This looks like an awesome option and with it being aluminum it won't warp over all those heat cycles!
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      07-02-2022, 12:00 PM   #195
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Got my car back on the road after about a 3 week wait.

Been having problems starting for the last few months. Starter would just stop cranking halfway through. Thought it was the starter so I got the TYC one off Amazon that's decently well regarded. That worked for like 2 days before it started having the same issues. Ripped that one out and put a genuine Bosch in there. Same deal.

Also, there would be a relay going nuts in the glovebox's fusebox.

Started poking around to see if the wiring was going bad: I replaced the ground strap off the valve cover near the jump points, and the one near the motor mount. Same deal. One day it just completely died. Refused to start and all the electronics in the car were going nuts turning on and off.

Scanned it and got some wacky CAS module codes. Did some research and saw that CAS dying isn't unusual. So I took mine out (along with the DME and keys) and sent it to some repair shop on eBay. He said it was completely toast, so I ran to LKQ. Out of 6 cars, only 2 of them still had their CAS modules.
Sent the modules his way, he worked his magic cloning mine. Got it back today and the car is working 100%!
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My 2008 128i - Sparkling Graphite/Beige - Sport pkg - 6MT - Click me!
Parents' 2014 528i - Mineral White/Ivory White - fully loaded
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Last edited by desertman123; 12-03-2022 at 03:30 PM..
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      07-02-2022, 12:18 PM   #196
Almuliman
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"LKQ"?
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      07-02-2022, 01:47 PM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Almuliman View Post
"LKQ"?
They are a part recycler/scrapper. They are like junkyard but they do their own disassembly and stuff.
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      07-13-2022, 06:40 AM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
Got my car back on the road after about a 3 week wait.

Been having problems starting for the last few months. Starter would just stop cranking halfway through. Thought it was the starter so I got the TYC one off Amazon that's decently well regarded. That worked for like 2 days before it started having the same issues. Ripped that one out and put a genuine Bosch in there. Same deal.

Also, there would be a relay going nuts in the glovebox's fusebox.

Started poking around to see if the wiring was going bad: I replaced the ground strap off the valve cover near the jump points, and the one near the motor mount. Same deal. One day it just completely died. Refused to start and all the electronics in the car were going nuts turning on and off.

Scanned it and got some wacky CAS module codes. Did some research and saw that CAS dying are indeed starting to die. So I took mine out (along with the DME and keys) and sent it to some repair shop on eBay. He said it was completely toast, so I ran to LKQ. Out of 6 cars, only 2 of them still had their CAS modules.
Sent the modules his way, he worked his magic cloning mine. Got it back today and the car is working 100%!
Same thing I had although mine was less consistent and took a bit longer to sort out.

Details of my CAS failure for anyone in the future are here: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...3#post28625233
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