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      11-05-2014, 10:32 AM   #23
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Couple of pics on this thread that I uploaded previously

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...1#post16063961
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      11-05-2014, 11:06 AM   #24
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Looks like there's 2 versions the B12 and EIBACH Sportline sport spring and the B12 with Eibach Pro-Kit application-specific progressive rate performance springs. Which one has the lower ride height?
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      11-05-2014, 11:44 AM   #25
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In the interest of keeping stock height, and keeping costs low, would a combination of Koni Sport fronts, TCKline rear external adjust, 2011+ linear stock springs, E93 FSB, be a decent budget setup for dual duty 135i?

How about FRONT fender and wheel clearance with Konis compared to stock struts? I would really like to keep my current 18x8.5 ET52 stock RIM + 10mm spacer + 255/35R18 EP tires stuffed in there ...

Thanks.

Edit: Had a chat with the fine folks at TCKline, looks like the S/A and D/A coilver kits both come with front/rear height adjusters allowing stock height if that is what is desired. Pardon the newbie comment, but Im not sure if other manufacturers allow stock height ...
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      11-08-2014, 02:09 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazil769 View Post
Looks like there's 2 versions the B12 and EIBACH Sportline sport spring and the B12 with Eibach Pro-Kit application-specific progressive rate performance springs. Which one has the lower ride height?
Pro-Kit= 1.6 Inches (40mm)

Sportline= 2.0 Inches (50mm)
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      11-09-2014, 04:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
In the interest of keeping stock height, and keeping costs low, would a combination of Koni Sport fronts, TCKline rear external adjust, 2011+ linear stock springs, E93 FSB, be a decent budget setup for dual duty 135i?

How about FRONT fender and wheel clearance with Konis compared to stock struts? I would really like to keep my current 18x8.5 ET52 stock RIM + 10mm spacer + 255/35R18 EP tires stuffed in there ...

Thanks.

Edit: Had a chat with the fine folks at TCKline, looks like the S/A and D/A coilver kits both come with front/rear height adjusters allowing stock height if that is what is desired. Pardon the newbie comment, but Im not sure if other manufacturers allow stock height ...
I went from stock dampers to the TCK Singles. Inner clearance with the front suspension is about the same. Youre setup should be fine, it's pretty much what I run, albeit in 18" form versus my 17s.
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      11-09-2014, 04:54 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
I went from stock dampers to the TCK Singles. Inner clearance with the front suspension is about the same. Youre setup should be fine, it's pretty much what I run, albeit in 18" form versus my 17s.
Thanks for your feedback.

The people at TCK recommend the Dual setup over the single if the car sees the track often. I was aiming for the singles with their camber/caster plates to keep costs close to 2.1k. They claim that the compression adjustment in the duals would prevent minor rubbing that I get under hard compression with the tire sizes I use in the front. The duals are supposedly better suited for a car that sees the track. Not sure I want to spend that much on the duals though or in the same price range as the Ohlin's R&T .

Is your car dual duty? Are the TCK singles a massive improvement over stockers?

I watched some of your Youtube content, and noticed you wound up with a leaking and clunking rear shock. How well did TCK handle the issue?
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 11-10-2014 at 07:31 AM..
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      11-09-2014, 07:07 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Thanks for your feedback.

The people at TCK recommend the Dual setup over the single if the car sees the track often. I was aiming for the singles with their camper/caster plates to keep costs close to 2.1k. They claim that the compression adjustment in the duals would prevent minor rubbing that I get under hard compression with the tire sizes I use in the front. The duals were much better suited for a car that sees the track. Not sure I want to spend that much on the duals.

Is your car dual duty? Are the TCK singles a massive improvement over stockers?

I watched some of your Youtube content, and noticed you wound up with a leaking and clunking rear shock. How well did TCK handle the issue?
I do have a dedicated DD since my work has me travel long distances, but it broke down last week, so the 1'er has been getting full time miles. Beyond that, it does see regular street use in the canyons, and general fun weekend driving. The TCK are VERY street friendly for an aftermarket suspension, which is great. The only issues I have run into are occasionally bottoming out (front) over very severe expansion joints at speed, and running out of travel going over/down steep drives leaving parking lots, etc, and picking up a wheel (rear).

It passes the patented "Girlfriend Test" i.e. I picked her up after installing the coils, and she couldn't feel a difference. I have rebound set at about 50% F/R for street use. Any more rebound and the car was too sensitive to any oscillation or change in pavement. Having it a bit slower on the rebound makes it more relaxed/grippier for street use. First track day is this upcoming weekend, so we will see how they do.

Clunking was resolved. The seeping from the upper seal of the shock was deemed to be normal, and didn't seep any further beyond that initial amount.

If I had the money, I would have went D/A. However, I would rather put the ~$700 difference towards seat time, and learn to be a faster driver, since that's the biggest limiting factor right now. Also, I was not certain that I would know how to sufficiently tune Doubles. At least with the Singles, there's only one knob for me to mess with, and I can't mess it up too bad, right?
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      11-09-2014, 07:20 PM   #30
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Also, I went to a local canyon road that I am pretty quick at, with another very fast friend in his FR-S who also just installed Ohlins on his car. So we both were feeling out our new suspensions. The TCK's were compliant enough to work well in the canyon roads, which are decently bumpy, and provide superior grip to the stock suspension due to reduction in roll putting less stress on the tires. The "limits" of the car now feel much higher. Over, or understeer is much harder to find, and we were pushing pretty hard near the end.
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      11-09-2014, 07:22 PM   #31
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TCK is correct that compression would help alleviate minor rubbing. Compression basically "forces" the shock back down to the road...it resists being compressed.

However, too much compression (or not enough) will lead to changes in handling dynamics.

Compression adjustments are amazing. With that being said if you're not doing anything competitive you'll be fine with SAs. There is a significant learning curve with adjusting the suspension, you can mess up handling dynamics quite easily if you don't know what you're turning
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      11-10-2014, 07:42 AM   #32
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Jake and Kyle: Thanks for your input! I could see myself get frustrated with the dual adjustments. I remember reading a couple of your posts regarding the challenge in finding the right balance for your autocross events.

Would singles with stiffer springs somewhat compensate for the lack of compression adjustments in the dual? Would I be able to remove some of the front camber due to the stiffer roll resistance? Looking to strike the right balance for decent street compliance and track grip and car control ...
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      11-10-2014, 08:06 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Jake and Kyle: Thanks for your input! I could see myself get frustrated with the dual adjustments. I remember reading a couple of your posts regarding the challenge in finding the right balance for your autocross events.

Would singles with stiffer springs somewhat compensate for the lack of compression adjustments in the dual? Would I be able to remove some of the front camber due to the stiffer roll resistance? Looking to strike the right balance for decent street compliance and track grip and car control ...
Even with full blown suspension, you need camber. Unfortunately this is something you can't avoid. You'll have to personally find a balance between the track and street.

You might be able to get away with less on the ZIIs, but I ran -3.5* and still would of liked more.

Springs control how much a car will roll, rebound controls at what rate the car rolls. Unfortunately these will not compensate for compression, which adjusts how fast or slow a shock will compress under load.

With TC Camber/Caster Plates, you can get a ton of caster in the car. Caster basically helps the tire maintain effective camber throughout the steering range. So as the wheels turn, the wheel actually gains camber (instead of losing). This will help some as well versus other camber plates at fixed caster
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      11-10-2014, 08:34 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
Even with full blown suspension, you need camber. Unfortunately this is something you can't avoid. You'll have to personally find a balance between the track and street.

You might be able to get away with less on the ZIIs, but I ran -3.5* and still would of liked more.

Springs control how much a car will roll, rebound controls at what rate the car rolls. Unfortunately these will not compensate for compression, which adjusts how fast or slow a shock will compress under load.

With TC Camber/Caster Plates, you can get a ton of caster in the car. Caster basically helps the tire maintain effective camber throughout the steering range. So as the wheels turn, the wheel actually gains camber (instead of losing). This will help some as well versus other camber plates at fixed caster
Got it now. Thanks!

Might try suare set of Yohoma AD08-R's or ZII StarSpec's 255/35R18's on my 18x8.5 RIMS next season. Also contemplating a switch to 245/40R17 DOT R-compound on a cheap set of used BMW 17x8 RIMS.

Got also to think about that variable when I pull the trigger on a suspension upgrade ...

All will depend on available fund$ in Feb-April 2015 timeframe ...
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      11-10-2014, 08:41 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Got it now. Thanks!

Might try suare set of Yohoma AD08-R's or ZII StarSpec's 255/35R18's on my 18x8.5 RIMS next season. Also contemplating a switch to 245/40R17 DOT R-compound on a cheap set of used BMW 17x8 RIMS.

Got also to think about that variable when I pull the trigger on a suspension upgrade ...

All will depend on available fund$ in Feb-April 2015 timeframe ...
If you get R-Comps you'll probably want to get more spring. I don't know what ranges you're considering yet.

As well, I'd personally go ZII*. I haven't heard much people on the AD08-Rs on cambered cars
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      11-10-2014, 10:26 AM   #36
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Speaking of affordable suspension, and getting back to OP topic - has anyone considered the Fortune Auto 510 series coilovers?

Ive just received a recommendation from them, based on my requirements. The recommend 510 coilovers with 10k front and 13k rear spring rates.


http://www.fortune-auto.com/510series.htm

Some stats:

"Ultra" Digressive piston
Compliant track suspension solution
5 year Manufacturer's Warranty (1 year on piston)
Swift springs upgrade available
Rebuild-able in the USA
Revalve-able in the USA
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 11-10-2014 at 10:42 AM..
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      11-10-2014, 10:28 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Speaking of affordable suspension, and getting back to OP topic - has anyone considered the Fortune Auto 510 series coilovers?

Ive just received a recommendation from them, based on my requirements ...
http://www.fortune-auto.com/510series.htm
Nevermind. Thinking about BC Coilovers
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      11-10-2014, 10:55 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Speaking of affordable suspension, and getting back to OP topic - has anyone considered the Fortune Auto 510 series coilovers?

Ive just received a recommendation from them, based on my requirements. The recommend 510 coilovers with 10k front and 13k rear spring rates.


http://www.fortune-auto.com/510series.htm

Some stats:

"Ultra" Digressive piston
Compliant track suspension solution
5 year Manufacturer's Warranty (1 year on piston)
Swift springs upgrade available
Rebuild-able in the USA
Revalve-able in the USA
Do your research. On paper they look good but there's not much real world reviews/tests of them. Be aware that the parts are not manufactured in the USA; they are only designed and assembled there. You're probably getting parts from Taiwan or China
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      11-24-2014, 12:52 PM   #39
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Back on the topic of affordability..Dackelone suggested shock mounts from dinancars. Have any of you guys used these? Or heard about them from someone who has them. http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E88-128....0L/ES2651653/

Do i also need front shock mounts?
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      11-26-2014, 11:45 PM   #40
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I'm using the powerflex rear shock mounts. They work great and are a nice upgrade over stock. Front mounts are ground control street camber plates.
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      11-28-2014, 02:23 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkkyyMan View Post
Any opinions on the B12 Kit with the Dinan camber plates?
Recommended depending on what you want to do with the car. If lowering for looks only then not needed. If you will be tracking the car then you should get some additional camber. I have the Dinan's on my 1 and have -1.5 camber. Combined with 235 front and 245 rear I have effectively no understeer. Also recommend some stiffer shock mount bushing in the rear as someone else recommended. I'm running Powerflex but have heard good things on the Dinan's too.

I had ordered a B12 when I got my 1 but there was a 2 month backorder at the time and cancelled the order. So in my anxiousness I ordered Bilstein sports + BMWP springs. That combined with some Eibach bars, Dinan camber plates, and Powerflex bushings has given me a very tight well balanced car. I'm sure there are better combinations out there but I have really no complaints and would recommend the same to anyone.
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      11-29-2014, 01:40 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
no SWIFT spring + Koni? hmm
If price is a concern...
Koni Yellows, $550 + Swift springs, $314 = $864
Daily driver, love the drop, ride quality great, no rubbing. I'm very satisfied with what I went with, price and use played a big part in the decision. Thanks to all on the forum for the info.
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      12-11-2014, 01:05 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeelToe View Post
Recommended depending on what you want to do with the car. If lowering for looks only then not needed. If you will be tracking the car then you should get some additional camber. I have the Dinan's on my 1 and have -1.5 camber. Combined with 235 front and 245 rear I have effectively no understeer. Also recommend some stiffer shock mount bushing in the rear as someone else recommended. I'm running Powerflex but have heard good things on the Dinan's too.

I had ordered a B12 when I got my 1 but there was a 2 month backorder at the time and cancelled the order. So in my anxiousness I ordered Bilstein sports + BMWP springs. That combined with some Eibach bars, Dinan camber plates, and Powerflex bushings has given me a very tight well balanced car. I'm sure there are better combinations out there but I have really no complaints and would recommend the same to anyone.
Thanks!
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      12-11-2014, 02:23 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazil769 View Post
Back on the topic of affordability..Dackelone suggested shock mounts from dinancars. Have any of you guys used these? Or heard about them from someone who has them. http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E88-128....0L/ES2651653/

Do i also need front shock mounts?
Definitely do those. They firm up the rear upper mounts and the Dinan ones also increase damper travel by 1cm IIRC. It's a win win, and as you can see, not expensive either.
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