Winter Project List

[Dmak]

Originally Posted by GoodMoodley

This is as per Stett instructions.

11. Fender liner vents. There are a number of ways you could do this. Wtypically cut a rectangle hole in the liner and call it a day. Rocks generally fling off the rear of the tire, not the front. We have cars running this way for 13 years with not a single issue. Obviously if you live down a gravel road or something unusual like that then obviously it would be ideal to install some coarse mesh on the back side of the liners. It doesn’t have to be fine mesh, we want airflow. You can attach the mesh with some sheetmetal screws, washers and speed clips. Or some machine screws, washers and nuts. You can also cut slits or use a hole saw and cut holes like perforation. No, no
ducts are needed, the fender well is a big duct. And no, those silly “brake ducts” that were on the car (if yours was equipped) did not do a thing, trust me.. we’ve tested it. They serve zero purpose. Yes you can keep your fog lights, we usually remove them for the extra airflow.

Ic. Thats good. Maybe because the cooler is so huge that it pretty much cover all of the fender liner at the back that no air can flow around it like some other smaller cooler.

Project looking good. Looks like theres should be lot of time to get the car ready for summer with the virus going on around the world.

Stay safe everyone

[fast1eddy]

Originally Posted by GoodMoodley

Valve Cover Done!

On to the rest of the list.

Midway through my valve cover. Decided to go with original BMW part after taking to my mechanic. Looks like I'll need spark plugs too.

[GoodMoodley]

Originally Posted by fast1eddy

Midway through my valve cover. Decided to go with original BMW part after taking to my mechanic. Looks like I'll need spark plugs too.

I found that getting the VC back in is much easier if you pull the trim off around the windshield wipers and remove the upper plastic portion of the firewall off that sits right behind the engine. This provides some extra room so you don't have to damage the gasket due to limited room.

[fast1eddy]

Originally Posted by GoodMoodley

I found that getting the VC back in is much easier if you pull the trim off around the windshield wipers and remove the upper plastic portion of the firewall off that sits right behind the engine. This provides some extra room so you don't have to damage the gasket due to limited room.

Thanks for the tip but I've got the valve cover back on already. Was just gonna torque it down but dropped my torx bit and extension down the engine bay. Now I gotta pull the undertray. Good thing I've got nothing but time.

[fast1eddy]

Found a nice surprise when I took off my undertray. Rear main seal leak. The fun never ends with this car.

[GoodMoodley]

Originally Posted by fast1eddy

Found a nice surprise when I took off my undertray. Rear main seal leak. The fun never ends with this car.

I think mine is leaking as well. Joy oh joy.

[fast1eddy]

Originally Posted by GoodMoodley

It is not very difficult if you have the right tools.

I used this to press bearings in and out.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...UTF8&psc=1

I also used this to pull axles back in which made the job even easier but is not necessary.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800102~bav/

And one of these to press out the axles and pull the hubs out.

https://www.amazon.ca/8milelake-Exte...86&sr=8-13

There is a thread all about the process

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=975919

And by the way I love those wheels.

Looks like I'm going to have to do this hub swap after all. Watched a few YouTube on the process. Doesn't look too difficult depending on how seized the axles are. What brake rotors did you use and where did you get them ?

[GoodMoodley]

Originally Posted by fast1eddy

Looks like I'm going to have to do this hub swap after all. Watched a few YouTube on the process. Doesn't look too difficult depending on how seized the axles are. What brake rotors did you use and where did you get them ?

I used Zimmerman 150.3477.52 rotors

I ordered them through a local guy who just did some work out of his garage. I used to buy LiquiMoly oil from him for a good deal.

This is the full kit that ECS sells. The rotor in this kit will work fine as well.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...33416760058kt/

[GoodMoodley]

Precision Raceworks Stage 2 LPFP assembled and ready to install. But that will have to wait for tomorrow.

[fast1eddy]

Originally Posted by GoodMoodley

Precision Raceworks Stage 2 LPFP assembled and ready to install. But that will have to wait for tomorrow.

Is there anything you're not doing to your car ?

[GoodMoodley]

Originally Posted by fast1eddy

Is there anything you're not doing to your car ?

Haha. I'm not changing the colour.

[Dmak]

Originally Posted by GoodMoodley

I used Zimmerman 150.3477.52 rotors

I ordered them through a local guy who just did some work out of his garage. I used to buy LiquiMoly oil from him for a good deal.

This is the full kit that ECS sells. The rotor in this kit will work fine as well.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...33416760058kt/

How much was the rotors? Did your guy got it within canada?

I m also looking to do the hub swap.

[fast1eddy]

Originally Posted by Dmak

How much was the rotors? Did your guy got it within canada?

I m also looking to do the hub swap.

I'll be doing some research tomorrow to see if I can find them in Canada. So far everything I see is from Europe. I checked with Bavaria BMW on the oem 130i rotors but they are $242 each and a month to get. Rockauto has the hub kit at a great price.

[fe1rx]

In response to the original question - aero.
[IMG][/IMG]
Details to follow ...

[GoodMoodley]

Originally Posted by Dmak

How much was the rotors? Did your guy got it within canada?

I m also looking to do the hub swap.

It was a while back and I don't remember the exact price but it was a bit pricey. I am not sure where he sourced it from.

[fast1eddy]

Originally Posted by fe1rx

In response to the original question - aero.
[IMG][/IMG]
Details to follow ...

Whatever you're doing I'm sure it's way above my head. Usually is haha

[fast1eddy]

Originally Posted by Dmak

How much was the rotors? Did your guy got it within canada?

I m also looking to do the hub swap.

Looks like they aren't available here. I called ECS and they sell the rotors separately but don't list them to save confusion. $158.02 each US plus freight. Should land about the same as dealer parts but quicker. If you want to order together to save on shipping charges I'm in. Could do the same with the hubs from Rockauto.

[Dmak]

Originally Posted by fast1eddy

Looks like they aren't available here. I called ECS and they sell the rotors separately but don't list them to save confusion. $158.02 each US plus freight. Should land about the same as dealer parts but quicker. If you want to order together to save on shipping charges I'm in. Could do the same with the hubs from Rockauto.

Thx for the offer. But i m not ready to buy at this time seeing how the economy is shit now. Also the price on the rotors is the reason i still havnt done it....

[519.E82]

I had a fun parts list starting to build up, got new track wheels and tires i need to mount and balance when im back at work, I had wheel studs and the white line rear bushing inserts on order but cancelled both of those and spent the money and then some buying a new inner DISA valve, so ill have to pull the intake manifold again

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by 519.E82

I had a fun parts list starting to build up, got new track wheels and tires i need to mount and balance when im back at work, I had wheel studs and the white line rear bushing inserts on order but cancelled both of those and spent the money and then some buying a new inner DISA valve, so ill have to pull the intake manifold again

What a PITA. How did you diagnose the DISA, did you have symptoms or you have the appropriate scan tools? I feel some pretty nasty torque "dips" where you would expect as the switchover happens (around 3Krpm and 4.2Krpm), I just don't have reference for what it should be and don't have the right diagnostic tools to test them. Valves came with the manifold which had about 130K Kms on it. No codes or warning lights...

[519.E82]

Originally Posted by asbrr

What a PITA. How did you diagnose the DISA, did you have symptoms or you have the appropriate scan tools? I feel some pretty nasty torque "dips" where you would expect as the switchover happens (around 3Krpm and 4.2Krpm), I just don't have reference for what it should be and don't have the right diagnostic tools to test them. Valves came with the manifold which had about 130K Kms on it. No codes or warning lights...

.
So I use INPA on my laptop to scan it and i do have a shadow code commonly associated with the failure. The only symptom i would say I have is if im in standard drive mode the car has hesitation in the lower RPM range. I havent got to drive the car much for a while but i think between 1500-2k rpm was a lot of hesitation, so i would assume the valve may be stuck open. It wont show a CEL or a standard code, its one of BMW's many hidden codes since its not a catastrophic failure. My valves and manifold is from an 08 X3 im not sure the mileage but the seller said that the valves dont normally fail since its the updated version so i never replaced them on install due to budget. I also did test my larger outer valve last year probably like 4k km ago so i know it should be good

Edit: I tested the valve with ISTA and made a video and put it on youtube if you want to see how.

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by 519.E82

.
So I use INPA on my laptop to scan it and i do have a shadow code commonly associated with the failure. The only symptom i would say I have is if im in standard drive mode the car has hesitation in the lower RPM range. I havent got to drive the car much for a while but i think between 1500-2k rpm was a lot of hesitation, so i would assume the valve may be stuck open. It wont show a CEL or a standard code, its one of BMW's many hidden codes since its not a catastrophic failure. My valves and manifold is from an 08 X3 im not sure the mileage but the seller said that the valves dont normally fail since its the updated version so i never replaced them on install due to budget. I also did test my larger outer valve last year probably like 4k km ago so i know it should be good

Edit: I tested the valve with ISTA and made a video and put it on youtube if you want to see how.

Hm thanks - so what I did do before installing the manifold is I removed the valves, cleaned them up and inspected the seals, and hooked them up to the cables on the engine. Started the car (noted the position, the both reset to "home") and then revved the engine through the two transition RPMs and each one opened and closed at the right time. Figured that was enough.

From the looks of the ISTA test, it's doing the same thing? Of course the vales could have failed since....but I've felt the torque dips since the start and it's not hesitation per se like you describe. Bah, may just leave as is unless it really bothers me...car drives pretty smooth otherwise.