BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      12-06-2019, 05:30 AM   #23
Gangplank
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When it comes to modifications on anything with a motor there is a recommended order to things.

Driver (HPDE classes/track days)
Suspension (pick your upgrade)
Brakes (fluid/pads)
Power (tune - your choice)
Repeat

Control before power. It's no good to go faster if you can't control & stop the car/bike.

The brakes on the E82 are adequate for the street daily driving. The suspension is the weak point of these cars but it's not hard to improve (RSFB & better shocks to start).
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      12-08-2019, 01:21 AM   #24
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To me the 135 was great from the factory with one glaring deficiency. Suspension.
1. Whiteline RSFB
2. M Performance suspension
3. E93 M3 front anti roll bar
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      12-08-2019, 09:42 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
When it comes to modifications on anything with a motor there is a recommended order to things.

Driver (HPDE classes/track days)
Suspension (pick your upgrade)
Brakes (fluid/pads)
Power (tune - your choice)
Repeat

Control before power. It's no good to go faster if you can't control & stop the car/bike.

The brakes on the E82 are adequate for the street daily driving. The suspension is the weak point of these cars but it's not hard to improve (RSFB & better shocks to start).

+1

The best thing I got from my C6Z was that I wasn't as skilled a driver as I thought. That car was unforgiving!

My wife got me some driving classes as an anniversary present years ago.....I'm still not any good though.

Also a vendor gave me a pass to the BMW 1 day M driving school...it comes up in 2 weeks.

I'm excited!
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      12-08-2019, 01:36 PM   #26
Olgeezer1
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Hard to keep it to just 3. Improvement felt with every upgrade. First, CDV swapped for Zeckhausen Racing unit cured worst clutch engagement I've ever experienced. Then I think wheels/tires/shocks ( Apex 18x 8 1/2, square Mich.PS4S, Bilstein B6 ) and 3rd, DISA manifold + AA tune. Need to throw rear subframe inserts in here too. Affordable improvement for loosey goosey rear end.
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      12-10-2019, 11:43 AM   #27
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My Three

1. Bimmer Performance Center Tune
2. Euro Air Box (if for no other reason than ease of function)
3. Carly App to code out LED flicker, add digital speedo and much more
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      12-10-2019, 04:33 PM   #28
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On my 128i:

1. LSD. Had an MFactory, now I have a DiffsOnline custom 3-clutch. The degree to which this changes the behavior of the car cannot be understated. It's a fantastic modification that everyone with an interest in driving should do at some point.

2. Ohlins Road and Track coilovers.

3. Clutch Delay Valve delete. Drastically improves daily drivability of the car.
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(SOLD) 2009 BMW 128i 6-Speed Coupé | Monaco Blue with Black Sensatec | chris_flies' 128i thread
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      12-10-2019, 06:08 PM   #29
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Mine are super cheap. Well, the first two are cheap, anyway.

1. CDV delete
2. Golf tee mod
3. Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ (after using up a set of MPSS in about 25,000 miles)

Love this thread!

Peace... Mack
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So, that's it. I am doomed. There is no patch, no methadone, no substitute. Curse you BMW. Curse you and your seamless power delivery. Curse the incredible sense of road feel. Curse the comfort, the luxury, the envious looks from the masses. I am... hopelessly addicted.
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      12-18-2019, 12:22 AM   #30
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I know you meant value to mean cheap, but the most VALUE modification I've done to my car was also the most EXPENSIVE modification I did voluntarily.

(say voluntarily because my wastegate broke, necessitated me repairing, replacing or upgrading my turbos. Hence, the most expensive modification I've done to date has been upgraded turbos; but I maintain that wasn't voluntarily)

A LSD.

If I were to start again, I'd do:
* Downpipes
* MHD Flash Tune
* LSD
* MP4S Tires

If I had to choose 1 of the above, I wouldn't. I'd choose a second hand WRX. It is pointless having a 135i/335i with a stock diff, stock handling and a MHD tune. It's idiotic to run-flat tires on our cars under any circumstance. Sorry, it's just not fun to drive; you may aswell pay half the price and have a worked Subaru WRX.

Even with stock power, the car is better with a LSD, but it's 10x better with MHD + LSD.
And you can put up with a spongy subframe & bouncy shocks when you've got both back wheels locked together under power. It doesn't handle well, but it handles predictably, and it's fun.

... then I'd proceed to spend $3k per annum keeping the N54 on the road, the same as what I've done with this one.
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      12-25-2019, 08:39 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric in RVA View Post
Things that are truly free

CDV removed. Free
Clutch return spring removed. Free
Pedal covers removed and skateboard grip tape applied. Scraps are free at board shop usually. extra points if color matched. Free


M3 control arms.

Some aural enhancement.
Exhaust.
Golf tee mod FREE.
PE then aftermarket.
Intake
Cut a hole in airbox lid FREE
Buy an aftermarket intake kit


Summer tire / winter tire if you live somewhere with seasons.

Can you show me a picture of the airbox, I'm considering doing it.
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      12-25-2019, 09:31 PM   #32
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1 - No more run flats.
2 - EBC pads and rotors
3 - M3 control arms and new tie rod ends.

Agency Power downpipe and axle back.

VRSF fmic

MHD

She drives like she should have from the factory.
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      12-25-2019, 10:11 PM   #33
Ric in RVA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kheadley View Post
Can you show me a picture of the airbox, I'm considering doing it.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...2&postcount=40




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      12-26-2019, 12:41 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric in RVA View Post
Thanks, does it sound noticeably louder/better?
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      12-27-2019, 07:35 AM   #35
Ric in RVA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kheadley View Post
Thanks, does it sound noticeably louder/better?
Like any other open intake. Maybe a little less loud since sound it aimed forward.

I have stock and open to swap between and I prefer open.

It is unobtrusive day to day unless you stand on it. I think it "finished" the exhaust I added.

I will try to make an interior sound file next time I drive it.
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      12-27-2019, 02:31 PM   #36
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In addition to everyone else:

M3 Tension struts - $130

I'm surprised not more people mentioned the M3 tension struts. The M3 control arms require a full alignment and may have some downsides, but you can replace just the tension struts without changing the geometry. They're just $130 if you get the TRW parts - new hardware will set you back a little more.
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      12-27-2019, 09:49 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderguts View Post
In addition to everyone else:

M3 Tension struts - $130

I'm surprised not more people mentioned the M3 tension struts. The M3 control arms require a full alignment and may have some downsides, but you can replace just the tension struts without changing the geometry. They're just $130 if you get the TRW parts - new hardware will set you back a little more.
Good info but if may add, that little extra bit of neg camber from the control arms goes a good way in helping correct push and stiffer bushings then the stockers is really noticeable in steering feel.
Doing both the struts and controls at the same time simplifies the job. Only negatives that I can think of is the additional cost of the alignment and more uneven tire wear. You can get the tensions and control arms set for about $300-350. Worth the cost of admission for me
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