I Need Help Replacing Oil Pan Gasket!

[128ibro]

I have E88 128i noticed my oil pan leaking. Soon will be time to do oil change, but I need help replacing the gasket.

I know dropping the subframe and working with jack stands not the easiest thing.

Any enthusiast with knowledge how to do it interested in doing this fix!!

[desertman123]

Get the engine brace from harbor freight, it's like $60 after you use the 20% coupon (which you can find on Google). While you're there, buy the 1/4" torque wrench. The torque spec for the pan bolts is like 8N•m + 90° if I remember right - don't just wing it, follow the spec.

After you rig it up, it's super straight forward. Just follow the DIY from E90Post. Make sure you order the correct oil pan bolt set for manual/automatic(do not try to do this with reusing bolts, you'll just give yourself a headache).

Also would recommend new motor mounts "while you're in there". You can use the $50 OEM Corteco brand ones.

It's a lengthy job that requires lots of tools, but I would not consider it very difficult (I had A MUCH harder time with the valve cover and AA headers)

[128ibro]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Get the engine brace from harbor freight, it's like $60 after you use the 20% coupon (which you can find on Google). While you're there, buy the 1/4" torque wrench. The torque spec for the pan bolts is like 8N•m + 90° if I remember right - don't just wing it, follow the spec.

After you rig it up, it's super straight forward. Just follow the DIY from E90Post. Make sure you order the correct oil pan bolt set for manual/automatic(do not try to do this with reusing bolts, you'll just give yourself a headache).

Also would recommend new motor mounts "while you're in there". You can use the $50 OEM Corteco brand ones.

It's a lengthy job that requires lots of tools, but I would not consider it very difficult (I had A MUCH harder time with the valve cover and AA headers)

Thanks for the recommendation. I realized that the bolts made of aluminum very light weight and break fast if over tightened.

Have you had any problems while doing this job?

Can you please send links for DIY's on how to do the oil pan gasket and engine mounts?since you did them already you can tell which DIY the most helpful.

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by 128ibro

Thanks for the recommendation. I realized that the bolts made of aluminum very light weight and break fast if over tightened.

Have you had any problems while doing this job?

Can you please send links for DIY's on how to do the oil pan gasket and engine mounts?since you did them already you can tell which DIY the most helpful.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1180020

This is the DIY I used

Only problem was a bolt snapped - fix it by just getting the 1/4" torque wrench lol

[Dackelone]

Are you SURE the oil pan is leaking?

What is way more common is the oil filter housing(OFH) gasket to leak oil down the block onto your oil pan gasket. You won't see any oil on your garage floor... bc the belly pan hides(contains) fluid leaks quite well.

Dack

[Lucky1]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Are you SURE the oil pan is leaking?

What is way more common is the oil filter housing(OFH) gasket to leak oil down the block onto your oil pan gasket. You won't see any oil on your garage floor... bc the belly pan hides(contains) fluid leaks quite well.

Dack

Funny, my dealership misdiagnosed my oil pan gasket leak for this exact reason They thought it was the OFHG but I had already replaced it. My indy mechanic showed me wet oil coming out of the worn gasket area in the pan and that the OFHG was dry as a bone.

What other "while you are" things should OP and I address besides motor mounts? Don't want to have to drop this subframe again. I'm at 125K miles.

[128ibro]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Are you SURE the oil pan is leaking?

What is way more common is the oil filter housing(OFH) gasket to leak oil down the block onto your oil pan gasket. You won't see any oil on your garage floor... bc the belly pan hides(contains) fluid leaks quite well.

Dack

I already did the OFHG. Easiest thing I've done on this car, but bit of challenge to get the bolt under the manifold without removing the manifold.

I can see that it is the oil pan and hopefully not the head gasket.

[128ibro]

Originally Posted by desertman123

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1180020

This is the DIY I used

Only problem was a bolt snapped - fix it by just getting the 1/4" torque wrench lol

Haha, been through the same thing I tried to tighten the bolts to see if it'll stop the leak and one of them snapped; removed it with picker and flat head.

Replaced it with steel bolt same size I found in my tool box.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Lucky1

Funny, my dealership misdiagnosed my oil pan gasket leak for this exact reason They thought it was the OFHG but I had already replaced it. My indy mechanic showed me wet oil coming out of the worn gasket area in the pan and that the OFHG was dry as a bone.

What other "while you are" things should OP and I address besides motor mounts? Don't want to have to drop this subframe again. I'm at 125K miles.

Maybe motor mounts ? I really can't think of anything else.

[Lucky1]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Maybe motor mounts ? I really can't think of anything else.

Thats not a bad thing. My air conditioning is acting up and only blows very cold on the passenger side vents. I'll put the money into figuring that problem out instead of while I'm there stuff with the oil pan gasket.

[Havocsteve]

Originally Posted by Lucky1

Thats not a bad thing. My air conditioning is acting up and only blows very cold on the passenger side vents. I'll put the money into figuring that problem out instead of while I'm there stuff with the oil pan gasket.

Mine was doing this. I got my AC recharged and it blows ice cold on both sides. Worth it just to recharge for the summer and see next year if anything needs to be replaced. I only paid $40 since "I know a guy".

[Lucky1]

Originally Posted by Havocsteve

Mine was doing this. I got my AC recharged and it blows ice cold on both sides. Worth it just to recharge for the summer and see next year if anything needs to be replaced. I only paid $40 since "I know a guy".

Yes now that you mention it I do remember that was a symptom that went away after a recharge. After the recharge I concluded the system is designed that if it only has so much refrigerant left it only directs the most cooled air through the passenger side vents.

Last recharge was two years ago almost to the date per my records. Also included dye in the freon so will try and pinpoint the source of the leak this visit.

[Havocsteve]

I had mine done last year, still ice cold to this day. The passenger side was cold/cool but drivers was only heat. Recharged it as a "see if it leaks" then ill continue with further repairs. Guess I got lucky, although a AC recharge every two years is still cheaper then replacing ac parts over the cost of 20 years (10 refills per 2 year).

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Lucky1

Thats not a bad thing. My air conditioning is acting up and only blows very cold on the passenger side vents. I'll put the money into figuring that problem out instead of while I'm there stuff with the oil pan gasket.

Sounds like one of your blend doors is broken. I would also remove your pollen filter and check for any debris down in the HVAC intake fan area. I don't see how recharging your AC would fix a bad blend door. I think you could also check for faults via a scan tool, checking the AC module.

Dack

[128ibro]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Sounds like one of your blend doors is broken. I would also remove your pollen filter and check for any debris down in the HVAC intake fan area. I don't see how recharging your AC would fix a bad blend door. I think you could also check for faults via a scan tool, checking the AC module.

Dack

Dack the forum full of 1 series owners who had the same problem. Some got it fixed by refilling and others had to replace the evaporator. BMW changed their evaporator part, but I'm not sure after what model.

Mine got fixed after refilling with freon.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by 128ibro

Dack the forum full of 1 series owners who had the same problem. Some got it fixed by refilling and others had to replace the evaporator. BMW changed their evaporator part, but I'm not sure after what model.

Mine got fixed after refilling with freon.

IDK... I don't see "half" the evaporator working and the "other half" not.

Dack

[08135IFL]

I recharged mine, worked for a week. Added dye and an evaporator leak was obvious on a lift with the dye dripping out.

If you try refilling it first, add the dye and you may save having to do it twice.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

IDK... I don't see "half" the evaporator working and the "other half" not.

Dack

That is the first sign of being low on refrigerant on pretty much any car.