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      07-19-2020, 08:20 AM   #1
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Help with unusual noise before startup

For the 10 years I've owned the car, when I open a door after a period of sitting I'd hear a whining noise of sorts, which I always assumed was a fuel pump pressurizing to get the car started more quickly (I don't know if that's actually what it was, but assumed).

Now that noise has become a rattle, which doesn't make sense for a fuel pump. The car seems to start up and drive normally, but I want to solve / fix this before I get stranded somewhere someday.

Anyone else experienced this? Video linked. It's clearly under the hood, but I can't quite locate it - it seems fairly centralized i.e. under the plastic cover.

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      07-19-2020, 03:16 PM   #2
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Solely based on what could make that kind of noise, 11377603979 Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Actuator.
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      07-19-2020, 03:23 PM   #3
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I have spent a lot more time researching and am headed that direction as well. That or the sensor.

Found this: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?p=8987098

Then of course is a "why" question, if something else is fudged up nearby (i.e. oil leak getting on parts).

Thanks though, yeah I'm close now. Ugh, I have been inside engines but am working full time and have a 4 year old. This may end up at a local indy.
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      07-19-2020, 04:35 PM   #4
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I wonder if there's some type of relearn procedure?
Maybe it's freaking out because the battery went dead/low at some point and it learned some wrong data?

*edit

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...40&postcount=4
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      07-19-2020, 06:24 PM   #5
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Nice, thanks!

Thinking about the software investigation potential, I have a plan of sorts when asking about a repair:

Pull any codes even though check engine light hasn't come on (I have Carly and can do this one myself)
This procedure above or similar done via software to check limits and see the results - gives a chance to ask about calibrating later if replaced
Ask about motor vs. sensor as internet searching says both have been the fix
Ask for a description of how the motor works, why it would rattle, if nothing else than to gauge their understanding of how it actually all actually works (and if they could do a competent repair)
Ask about not replacing the shaft itself if not needed, and how it can be checked (i.e. smooth movement / rotation, wear)

Well it's not an awesome plan but to feel out the ability to fix it without spending money needlessly.

Dang, car's an '11 but only 29k miles on it. Some things fail over time, most with use, I'd expect this to be fine for much longer. I did have the VANOS bolts done a while back and I know there's some interrelationship there. Hope they didn't botch something. The rattle's only appeared recently though so I suppose not.

I've sent some shortcuts to my desktop of various repairs and posts about it after finding more about what to look for. I saw bbnks2 apparently with this issue in the past and recognize the user name, wonder if he might weigh in as well?
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      08-13-2020, 09:05 AM   #6
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Random update, in case it helps anyone in the future.

No CEL but I used Carly to see that there were codes stored, 3 of them, all valvetronic related. Cleared but of course came right back.

Brought it to a local shop, they extended the wiring to a cylinder head assembly on a bench and verified that the harness was good as the valvetronic motor and eccentric on the tester worked as expected. Connected back to my car and of course still did not. Saw that ~ 20A or so was being pulled trying to get things to move, so obviously something on my head is stuck.

Got a $4000 quote from them so I called around. Dealership said $2500 if both the motor and shaft needed to be replaced, less if it was just one of them (though it's unlikely to be that way) so it's there now. I saw it'd be $1500 in parts alone for me to do it. I know I'd eventually get it done but for $1000 since I don't have quite all the necessary tools, the software. nor the time I am letting them have it. It's in the shop now.

Likelihood seems that the shaft has frozen in place and the motor is trying to turn it. Expecting some wear between the two where the worm gear / eccentric teeth come together and expecting to replace both. Hoping it's just a bad motor but not counting on it.
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      08-13-2020, 04:05 PM   #7
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Guess it's done, I have to go pick it up tonight. No more rattle, no more codes. About $3k out the door when the diagnostic fee is added and a harness replaced due to a missing gasket (either the indy shop or another dealer across town during the Vanos bolt recall lost it). I should have probably skipped that one and DIY'd it, but it didn't add to the labor and was parts cost only so I just let them do it.

I lost my Cobb tune, bummer. I know it isn't the best out there but it was when I got it on about 6-7 years ago. Not sure if I'll put it back on, go MHD, or just skip it. I have a feeling I can live without the extra power but I'll likely hate the non-linear stock throttle.

Lost my Carly settings too like the eliminating the disclaimer, gongs, etc. I can take care of that easy enough at least.
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