N55 135i Track reliability... should I be scared for my engine??

[Jhonea02]

I own a n55 135 and I really want to track it this coming year. I have been doing some research and I have read almost nothing but horror stories of engines seizing/oil starvation. My dad has an e36 M3 he has tracked quite a bit and i have tracked it some and i am wanting to do the same in my 135 with him. Im not a super good driver, im a 19 year old college student actually, but doesnt change the fact that I want to get it on the track. Should I be super scared that ill lose an engine or should I just take the chance and go for it?

[edycol]

Fill it with bit more oil, good oil. I track my N52 using Castrol Edge 0W40. Excellent results.
Don't go super sticky tires. Go performance tires like Yokohama Advan Apax V601 or Continental Extreme Contact. That will not allow you to exert too high of G forces.
If you don't have radiator type oil cooler, install it.

[lforter]

Don't take my word as a 100% true statement as I am not completely familarized with the 135i for track, but i can chime in with what have I investigated. Due to your status as a college student, tracking the 135i seriously is a bad idea, it's an expensive car to track and you wont be learning as much as you could like in a cheap car. Tracking with it is bad cus you need some experience to dial in some problems the 135i has in stock form, as for blowing out your engine? you most likely wont just because of lack of experience in tracks, but as you go fast you need an Acussump or a m2 n55 oil mod to keep oil pressure optimal during high Gs.

The 135i has a lot of potential and it's a good chasis, but it needs cash, track experience and mechanical knowledge to untap the true speed of the car at an optimal cost. A lot of people discover that low HP cars tend to do similar to a 135i (just like a lot of cars that are 300+ HP), but that's very likely a skill limiting factor since you really need to master some skills before going full bore on a 135i, simply put, as you add more horsepower (and thus more weight) to a car it gets harder to carry the momentum in a turn since you need more high quality parts and suspension perfection to keep it nice and dandy, otherwise a low HP (lighter) car will be enough. To make my point more practical, let's say some pros rate your suspension (in a scale of 1-10) with a 7 but your HP with a 10, then you have more power than your suspension can handle, thus a car with a 7 power rating will perform better because of the lower weight and the suspension can handle the power, so you need to tune the suspension to a 10 rating to match the power (and this can get expensive if you don't to it right).

You can start tracking the 135i but I don't recommend tracking it seriously for a long term solution simply because it's not cost effective to start with. Seat time will make you a better driver, also try not to blame much the car but rather think about what you can do to drive faster, this will make you a better driver.

Finally, the lighter cars are easier and cheaper to track since you can make more mistakes on them (you can make more mistakes on turns and won't be penalized that much and you can buy your consumables used for learning at a lower cost).

[carguy138]

I'm having the same thoughts OP.

I'm installing a 3qt accusump on my N55 and will be shying away from R-comp tires. Also mounted the tablet that I use for MHD on the dash and will use the gauge function to keep an eye on oil pressure.

From what I've read, oil pressure can drop very low (10-20 PSI) on high G left hand turns and under hard braking. N55 idle oil pressure is around 40 PSI and fluctuates from 60-100 PSI under hard driving.

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by lforter

Don't take my word as a 100% true statement as I am not completely familarized with the 135i for track, but i can chime in with what have I investigated. Due to your status as a college student, tracking the 135i seriously is a bad idea, it's an expensive car to track and you wont be learning as much as you could like in a cheap car. Tracking with it is bad cus you need some experience to dial in some problems the 135i has in stock form, as for blowing out your engine? you most likely wont just because of lack of experience in tracks, but as you go fast you need an Acussump or a m2 n55 oil mod to keep oil pressure optimal during high Gs.

The 135i has a lot of potential and it's a good chasis, but it needs cash, track experience and mechanical knowledge to untap the true speed of the car at an optimal cost. A lot of people discover that low HP cars tend to do similar to a 135i (just like a lot of cars that are 300+ HP), but that's very likely a skill limiting factor since you really need to master some skills before going full bore on a 135i, simply put, as you add more horsepower (and thus more weight) to a car it gets harder to carry the momentum in a turn since you need more high quality parts and suspension perfection to keep it nice and dandy, otherwise a low HP (lighter) car will be enough. To make my point more practical, let's say some pros rate your suspension (in a scale of 1-10) with a 7 but your HP with a 10, then you have more power than your suspension can handle, thus a car with a 7 power rating will perform better because of the lower weight and the suspension can handle the power, so you need to tune the suspension to a 10 rating to match the power (and this can get expensive if you don't to it right).

You can start tracking the 135i but I don't recommend tracking it seriously for a long term solution simply because it's not cost effective to start with. Seat time will make you a better driver, also try not to blame much the car but rather think about what you can do to drive faster, this will make you a better driver.

Finally, the lighter cars are easier and cheaper to track since you can make more mistakes on them (you can make more mistakes on turns and won't be penalized that much and you can buy your consumables used for learning at a lower cost).

So I actually bought the car with upgraded suspension, and completely stock engine except a burger motorsport intake. I have some seat time in my dads M3, and have done HPDE before. And I work full time so I have had plenty of money to use if anything were to go wrong, which if I start to track will be money spent not saved but i am okay with that. The biggest thing I was wanting to know is if i were to do 2-4 track days a year, will it still be reliable enough to daily like i am?

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by carguy138

I'm having the same thoughts OP.

I'm installing a 3qt accusump on my N55 and will be shying away from R-comp tires. Also mounted the tablet that I use for MHD on the dash and will use the gauge function to keep an eye on oil pressure.

From what I've read, oil pressure can drop very low (10-20 PSI) on high G left hand turns and under hard braking. N55 idle oil pressure is around 40 PSI and fluctuates from 60-100 PSI under hard driving.

I have read the article on here about adding the accusump, but i have also seen that its not a for sure solution for oil starvation for some reason.

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by edycol

Fill it with bit more oil, good oil. I track my N52 using Castrol Edge 0W40. Excellent results.
Don't go super sticky tires. Go performance tires like Yokohama Advan Apax V601 or Continental Extreme Contact. That will not allow you to exert too high of G forces.
If you don't have radiator type oil cooler, install it.

I have the yokahama advan apex v601 on the car right now, I really like the tires actually. but thats good to know to add a little oil to help. and I do have an oil cooler on the car

[lforter]

Originally Posted by Jhonea02

So I actually bought the car with upgraded suspension, and completely stock engine except a burger motorsport intake. I have some seat time in my dads M3, and have done HPDE before. And I work full time so I have had plenty of money to use if anything were to go wrong, which if I start to track will be money spent not saved but i am okay with that. The biggest thing I was wanting to know is if i were to do 2-4 track days a year, will it still be reliable enough to daily like i am?

I think with 2-4 track days its good. Just do regular maintenace like changing fluids, good tires and brakes and you will be good to go. Keep an eye on car stats if you can (oil temp and pressure, temps etc...).

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by lforter

I think with 2-4 track days its good. Just do regular maintenace like changing fluids, good tires and brakes and you will be good to go. Keep an eye on car stats if you can (oil temp and pressure, temps etc...).

I've not looked into it but how hard is it to get oil pressure gauges set up?

[Dieselboy]

Originally Posted by Jhonea02

I have read the article on here about adding the accusump, but i have also seen that its not a for sure solution for oil starvation for some reason.

The Accusump is the only cost effective solution that addresses the oil starvation issue from what I've read. Baffles and external pumps seem to offer negligible improvement, especially in prolonged high-g left hand corners.

Lots of information on Sp00lSteet if you search "Addressing N5x oiling and spun rod bearings"

[PcarDefector]

Originally Posted by Jhonea02

I own a n55 135 and I really want to track it this coming year. I have been doing some research and I have read almost nothing but horror stories of engines seizing/oil starvation. My dad has an e36 M3 he has tracked quite a bit and i have tracked it some and i am wanting to do the same in my 135 with him. Im not a super good driver, im a 19 year old college student actually, but doesnt change the fact that I want to get it on the track. Should I be super scared that ill lose an engine or should I just take the chance and go for it?

An accusump system is wise but you should be concerned about other trouble areas beyond the oiling systems. Other major problem areas that should be addressed are:

- Brake ducts
The 135i calipers have ceramic coated pistons. The ceramic coating will likely melt or delaminate under high heat conditions such as tracking. The overheating causes the piston seals to crack and your caliber will leak brake fluid. Cooling ducts are highly recommended. An easy mod is shown below or you can swap to F30 brake backing plates. These are far cheaper than rebuilding your calipers.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527501

- Lower charge pipe
BMW charge pipes have been know to fail under boost as they are made of plastic. Many people recommend replacing with an aftermarket aluminum part.

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by PcarDefector

An accusump system is wise but you should be concerned about other trouble areas beyond the oiling systems. Other major problem areas that should be addressed are:

- Brake ducts
The 135i calipers have ceramic coated pistons. The ceramic coating will likely melt or delaminate under high heat conditions such as tracking. The overheating causes the piston seals to crack and your caliber will leak brake fluid. Cooling ducts are highly recommended. An easy mod is shown below or you can swap to F30 brake backing plates. These are far cheaper than rebuilding your calipers.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527501

- Lower charge pipe
BMW charge pipes have been know to fail under boost as they are made of plastic. Many people recommend replacing with an aftermarket aluminum part.

I am getting my calipers powder coated soon so I will be disassembling them obviously so my plan is to just rebuild them when I do that. But I will definitely look into f30 brake backing plates.

So I have replaced all the intercooler piping, including an upgraded intercooler. Pretty much the entire cooling system has been replaced in the last year ive owned it, I just need an aluminum radiator.
'
One more question. Do you think the engine will be okay after one track day here at hear at heartland park in topeka ks. Or will even one track day be a high risk for the motor?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Jhonea02

I am getting my calipers powder coated soon so I will be disassembling them obviously so my plan is to just rebuild them when I do that. But I will definitely look into f30 brake backing plates.

So I have replaced all the intercooler piping, including an upgraded intercooler. Pretty much the entire cooling system has been replaced in the last year ive owned it, I just need an aluminum radiator.
'
One more question. Do you think the engine will be okay after one track day here at hear at heartland park in topeka ks. Or will even one track day be a high risk for the motor?

StopTech makes what they claim to be upgraded pistons. I am not sure how good they are, probably there are reviews online.
Go do it.
Put more oil than max, add additional 0.5qt. You will be fine. Get good street oil that has track capabilities like Castrol 0W40 or Mobil1 0W40. Reason for this is that if you experience but of hydrodynamic loss, these oils have enough ZDDP to form glossy surface to protect piston rings or bearings.
Don't go crazy on tires. 200wt tires provide more G load but then G load is an issue in left corners. Go max performance summer tires 280wt.

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by edycol

StopTech makes what they claim to be upgraded pistons. I am not sure how good they are, probably there are reviews online.
Go do it.
Put more oil than max, add additional 0.5qt. You will be fine. Get good street oil that has track capabilities like Castrol 0W40 or Mobil1 0W40. Reason for this is that if you experience but of hydrodynamic loss, these oils have enough ZDDP to form glossy surface to protect piston rings or bearings.
Don't go crazy on tires. 200wt tires provide more G load but then G load is an issue in left corners. Go max performance summer tires 280wt.

The stoptech kit was the one I was going to buy. Ive watched videos and read reviews and im confident in them.

Sounds good, ill overfill just a little. And I use 5w30 right now would that work for tracking as well or should I go 0W40

The tires i have on right now are yokahama advan apex v601 which is a 280wt tire. Would those work good?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Jhonea02

The stoptech kit was the one I was going to buy. Ive watched videos and read reviews and im confident in them.

Sounds good, ill overfill just a little. And I use 5w30 right now would that work for tracking as well or should I go 0W40

The tires i have on right now are yokahama advan apex v601 which is a 280wt tire. Would those work good?

The most important thing when it comes to oil wear protection is HTHS, not grade.
HTHS (High Temperature-High Shear) is resistance of oil to temporary or permanent loss of viscosity. In N55 you want minimum HTHS of 3.5. That can be achieved with so called heavy XW30 or light XW40 oils. But on track, you want minimum 3.6 if oil has super strong additive pack (Mobil1 0W40) or at least 3.7 (a lot of X40 good oils have this HTHS).
Now the reason why I wouldn't use 5W30 (whatever brand you use) is that it doesn't have Porsche A40 approval. Porsche A40 approval means that oil was tested at simulation of 8hrs at Nordschleife track. That is one of the tests, but Porsche A40 approval is unique that has that specific track test. Both Mobil1 and Castrol 0W40 have that approval.
Another thing is ZDDP (Zinc dithiophosphate). It is THE MOST important anti wear additive (DO NOT add any aftermarket ZDDP additives. Long story). There is no replacement for ZDDP. So for track in street oils you really want ZDDP at 1,000ppm level. ZDDP is the last line of defense. When HTHS breaks down, ZDDP is what protects piston rings and cylinder walls. That is place where the breakdown of HTHS is most likely. But in N55 you could experience loss of hydrodynamic capabilities of oil around bearings, again ZDDP is what creates glossy film over surfaces.
Considering price of Mobil1 0W40 (HTHS 3.6) and Castrol 0W40 (HTHS 3.7) they are best bang for a buck and probably two best oils on the market when it comes to street oils.

One more thing about HTHS. You don't want to go too crazy. Higher the HTHS=more resistance =more heat=loss of hp.
You want to be in some 3.7-4 range (Mobil1 0W40 being exception).
Mobil1 0W40: 3.6
Castrol 0W40: 3.7
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40: 3.8
Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2: 3.8
Valvoline European Vehicle 5W40: 3.7

Those oils would be my choice for street and track. Now specific track oils are not best choice for street. Motul 300V is probably best track/race oil. But additives are geared toward very high temperatures. They really don't do their anti-oxidation and cleaning job well in grocery pick up regime.

This is Porsche oil rig they use to test various things, including testing oils for approvals:

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by edycol

The most important thing when it comes to oil wear protection is HTHS, not grade.
HTHS (High Temperature-High Shear) is resistance of oil to temporary or permanent loss of viscosity. In N55 you want minimum HTHS of 3.5. That can be achieved with so called heavy XW30 or light XW40 oils. But on track, you want minimum 3.6 if oil has super strong additive pack (Mobil1 0W40) or at least 3.7 (a lot of X40 good oils have this HTHS).
Now the reason why I wouldn't use 5W30 (whatever brand you use) is that it doesn't have Porsche A40 approval. Porsche A40 approval means that oil was tested at simulation of 8hrs at Nordschleife track. That is one of the tests, but Porsche A40 approval is unique that has that specific track test. Both Mobil1 and Castrol 0W40 have that approval.
Another thing is ZDDP (Zinc dithiophosphate). It is THE MOST important anti wear additive (DO NOT add any aftermarket ZDDP additives. Long story). There is no replacement for ZDDP. So for track in street oils you really want ZDDP at 1,000ppm level. ZDDP is the last line of defense. When HTHS breaks down, ZDDP is what protects piston rings and cylinder walls. That is place where the breakdown of HTHS is most likely. But in N55 you could experience loss of hydrodynamic capabilities of oil around bearings, again ZDDP is what creates glossy film over surfaces.
Considering price of Mobil1 0W40 (HTHS 3.6) and Castrol 0W40 (HTHS 3.7) they are best bang for a buck and probably two best oils on the market when it comes to street oils.

One more thing about HTHS. You don't want to go too crazy. Higher the HTHS=more resistance =more heat=loss of hp.
You want to be in some 3.7-4 range (Mobil1 0W40 being exception).
Mobil1 0W40: 3.6
Castrol 0W40: 3.7
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40: 3.8
Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2: 3.8
Valvoline European Vehicle 5W40: 3.7

Those oils would be my choice for street and track. Now specific track oils are not best choice for street. Motul 300V is probably best track/race oil. But additives are geared toward very high temperatures. They really don't do their anti-oxidation and cleaning job well in grocery pick up regime.

This is Porsche oil rig they use to test various things, including testing oils for approvals:

Thank you, super super helpful. Ill just go over to 0w40 from now on. It is my daily driver as well but i assume it would be alright for daily driving.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Jhonea02

Thank you, super super helpful. Ill just go over to 0w40 from now on. It is my daily driver as well but i assume it would be alright for daily driving.

M1 and Castrol 0W40 are street oils with all toughest approvals (minus BMW LL01). Reason why they don't have LL01 is that BMW updated LL01 in 2018 and removed all 0W40 oils bcs. oxidation. 0W40 oils have bit higher oxidation bcs. base stocks, type of polymers etc. BMW doesn't want those oils in new B generation engines and their OCI regime. But in N55 they are excellent. Also, they have MB229.5 approval which is the most comprehensive approval.
This is my UOA of Castrol Edge 0W40 in left column that had 47 laps at High Plains Raceway (5,000ft altitude and 102f ambient temperature) and overall some 5k of street driving. Right column is Castrol Edge 0W30 in winter driving without track. This UOA is as good as it gets even if there was no track. N52 engine.

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by edycol

M1 and Castrol 0W40 are street oils with all toughest approvals (minus BMW LL01). Reason why they don't have LL01 is that BMW updated LL01 in 2018 and removed all 0W40 oils bcs. oxidation. 0W40 oils have bit higher oxidation bcs. base stocks, type of polymers etc. BMW doesn't want those oils in new B generation engines and their OCI regime. But in N55 they are excellent. Also, they have MB229.5 approval which is the most comprehensive approval.
This is my UOA of Castrol Edge 0W40 in left column that had 47 laps at High Plains Raceway (5,000ft altitude and 102f ambient temperature) and overall some 5k of street driving. Right column is Castrol Edge 0W30 in winter driving without track. This UOA is as good as it gets even if there was no track. N52 engine.

You really do know a lot about engine oil and im thankful for that haha. I have an oil change in about 400 miles so Ill be throwing in 0w40 and hoping it treats me well on track. Do you think that an accusump is really necessary on a 115k mile e series n55 that probably wont get tracked more than 2 times a year?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Jhonea02

You really do know a lot about engine oil and im thankful for that haha. I have an oil change in about 400 miles so Ill be throwing in 0w40 and hoping it treats me well on track. Do you think that an accusump is really necessary on a 115k mile e series n55 that probably wont get tracked more than 2 times a year?

Not sure. I didn't research a lot N55 to know exactly on which cars that happen. That engine is tested on track. But if you push your set up (suspension improvements and tires) I guess it reaches limits. I personally go 0.5qt over max in my N52. But I am not sure N52 has these issues like N55.
I think if you don't go with too sticky tires, you will be fine. Remember, you are not getting paid to do this. You are not setting up records. I track my 328 xDrive stick which is my DD, with two child seats in the back. Who cares? I go, blow off some steam, drive back home.
Make sure your cooling system is upgraded, you have lower oil temperatures (they increase pressure), good oil, low coolant concentration, other fluids are ok, and hit the track.

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by edycol

Not sure. I didn't research a lot N55 to know exactly on which cars that happen. That engine is tested on track. But if you push your set up (suspension improvements and tires) I guess it reaches limits. I personally go 0.5qt over max in my N52. But I am not sure N52 has these issues like N55.
I think if you don't go with too sticky tires, you will be fine. Remember, you are not getting paid to do this. You are not setting up records. I track my 328 xDrive stick which is my DD, with two child seats in the back. Who cares? I go, blow off some steam, drive back home.
Make sure your cooling system is upgraded, you have lower oil temperatures (they increase pressure), good oil, low coolant concentration, other fluids are ok, and hit the track.

Most of my cooling system is all new, I need to get an aluminum radiator this winter. Luckily my 135 had the additional oil cooler when i bought it. And low coolant concentrate do you mean like half water and half coolant?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Jhonea02

Most of my cooling system is all new, I need to get an aluminum radiator this winter. Luckily my 135 had the additional oil cooler when i bought it. And low coolant concentrate do you mean like half water and half coolant?

No, 10-20% coolant concentrate rest distilled water. Less coolant means better heat exchange.
Oil cooler might be sufficient. But personally I would upgrade on N55. I think CSF has upgrade option. Not sure. I use oil cooler from 335 on my 328 and it is just right. Though I am at high altitude, and altitude is most challenging for cooling. See how it goes.

[Jhonea02]

Originally Posted by edycol

No, 10-20% coolant concentrate rest distilled water. Less coolant means better heat exchange.
Oil cooler might be sufficient. But personally I would upgrade on N55. I think CSF has upgrade option. Not sure. I use oil cooler from 335 on my 328 and it is just right. Though I am at high altitude, and altitude is most challenging for cooling. See how it goes.

Ill definitely look into upgrading the oil cooler. Is the CSF aluminum radiator the best option