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      01-16-2022, 03:14 PM   #23
edycol
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Originally Posted by edycol View Post
No, 10-20% coolant concentrate rest distilled water. Less coolant means better heat exchange.
Oil cooler might be sufficient. But personally I would upgrade on N55. I think CSF has upgrade option. Not sure. I use oil cooler from 335 on my 328 and it is just right. Though I am at high altitude, and altitude is most challenging for cooling. See how it goes.
Ill definitely look into upgrading the oil cooler. Is the CSF aluminum radiator the best option
I think so. Maybe some other people know more about that.
See your temperatures after you upgrade coolant radiator. Don't upgrade oil cooler until you see where your oil temperature is after that upgrade.
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      01-16-2022, 05:16 PM   #24
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I haven't tracked my 135i yet, but I did buy it with that intent... I have full bolt ons, 5" VRSF intercooler + BMS oil cooler valve... that valve made a huge difference in my operating temperature. MHD also has a cooling profile you can adjust, I had to revert my cooling profile back to stock after I changed the oil cooler valve, otherwise I had a hard time getting above 85c for oil temps. I think with a little preparedness the N55 which runs relatively hot will perform amicably for light track use.
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      01-16-2022, 06:54 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by WilsoN55 View Post
I haven't tracked my 135i yet, but I did buy it with that intent... I have full bolt ons, 5" VRSF intercooler + BMS oil cooler valve... that valve made a huge difference in my operating temperature. MHD also has a cooling profile you can adjust, I had to revert my cooling profile back to stock after I changed the oil cooler valve, otherwise I had a hard time getting above 85c for oil temps. I think with a little preparedness the N55 which runs relatively hot will perform amicably for light track use.
Make sure your oil temperature is always above 100c during daily driving. Otherwise moisture won't evaporate properly and additives won't clean it as intended.
Best scenario is if you can keep oil temperatures in daily driving around 110c and on track 130-135 max.
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      01-17-2022, 08:30 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilsoN55 View Post
I haven't tracked my 135i yet, but I did buy it with that intent... I have full bolt ons, 5" VRSF intercooler + BMS oil cooler valve... that valve made a huge difference in my operating temperature. MHD also has a cooling profile you can adjust, I had to revert my cooling profile back to stock after I changed the oil cooler valve, otherwise I had a hard time getting above 85c for oil temps. I think with a little preparedness the N55 which runs relatively hot will perform amicably for light track use.
Make sure your oil temperature is always above 100c during daily driving. Otherwise moisture won't evaporate properly and additives won't clean it as intended.
Best scenario is if you can keep oil temperatures in daily driving around 110c and on track 130-135 max.
yeah I think I'm going to replace it with the stock valve, would be beneficial in hot climates where you get right up to temp quickly.. but where I am it just seems to slow warm up and keep the engine bordering on too cold.
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      01-17-2022, 09:58 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilsoN55 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilsoN55 View Post
I haven't tracked my 135i yet, but I did buy it with that intent... I have full bolt ons, 5" VRSF intercooler + BMS oil cooler valve... that valve made a huge difference in my operating temperature. MHD also has a cooling profile you can adjust, I had to revert my cooling profile back to stock after I changed the oil cooler valve, otherwise I had a hard time getting above 85c for oil temps. I think with a little preparedness the N55 which runs relatively hot will perform amicably for light track use.
Make sure your oil temperature is always above 100c during daily driving. Otherwise moisture won't evaporate properly and additives won't clean it as intended.
Best scenario is if you can keep oil temperatures in daily driving around 110c and on track 130-135 max.
yeah I think I'm going to replace it with the stock valve, would be beneficial in hot climates where you get right up to temp quickly.. but where I am it just seems to slow warm up and keep the engine bordering on too cold.
Yep. That valve is more geared to strictly track. But in the end if you don't have large enough cooling capacity only think it does it buys you some time. It open earlier, but doesn't do anything to increase heat exchange.
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      01-17-2022, 07:37 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by edycol View Post
I think so. Maybe some other people know more about that.
See your temperatures after you upgrade coolant radiator. Don't upgrade oil cooler until you see where your oil temperature is after that upgrade.
Okay. Daily driving oil temp is around 230-240 degrees. Havent tracked it yet so hopefully oil temps are only around 270-80.
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      01-17-2022, 08:48 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Jhonea02 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
I think so. Maybe some other people know more about that.
See your temperatures after you upgrade coolant radiator. Don't upgrade oil cooler until you see where your oil temperature is after that upgrade.
Okay. Daily driving oil temp is around 230-240 degrees. Havent tracked it yet so hopefully oil temps are only around 270-80.
So 230-240 is where it should be on street. Question is whether it has capacity to keep it in 260-270 range on track.
Upgraded coolant radiator will help cooling engine. So see first how that works.
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      01-21-2022, 11:17 PM   #30
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Many of us have done this journey. Lots of good advice already given. I have a 2012 E82 with 110K that is now, "modified". I won't say "heavily" because there are some true race car builds in here and mine is still streetable. I'll summarize what I think will help in the short term and a map that should keep the car fairly reliable with minimal risk of engine damage. But, as always YMMV.

For the most part, I prioritized upgrades to the car in the following priority order: Reliability, safety, performance. There is overlap.

You mentioned that you have 115K and only intend to do 2 track days a year. You didn't mention how much seat time you have in the E36, so I don't know your real starting point or how hard you already know how to push the car. If you don't have much experience and don't consider yourself a "track driver" (sounds like your Dad can advise you here). If you are at the early stages, better tires, brakes, cooling and an Accusump are not needed and you can grow into the car as you hit limits and your budget allows.

First Mods:

Get an ER Charge Pipe. Stock one is plastic and at 115K is waiting to explode. Won't hurt the car but will ruin your track day.

If the water pump/thermostat haven't been replaced, just do it. BMW water pumps fail like clockwork between 75-100K. Think of it as a consumable.

Get some decent racing brake pads for your track days. Use Motul 660 or equivalent. The stock Brembos are actually pretty good and I went several track seasons before the pistons started to crack. I did the upgraded pistons and that worked, but eventually just went full BBK Stoptechs all around. You probably don't need to start with that.

Tires. If you have decent summer tires on, try a track day with those and see how you do. That should be fine for your first season if you only do a few days. Having two sets of wheels really makes life easier. I ran RE-71R's for a number of years. Finally upgraded to NT01's on the new 17" Apex's for dry track and 200TW R1R's on 18's for wet. Wouldn't do R-Comps until you have an Accusump and oil baffle. Plus you'll need stiffer suspension by then anyway.

Suspension. Stock M-sport suspension is fine for your first season or so. The body roll will start telling you when it's time to upgrade. I went from stock to swift springs for a season. Then ended up at Clubsport Coilovers with 450/750. Also added M3 control arms front and rear. Several folks in here are even stiffer than that but car becomes a lot less pleasant to drive on the street.

Camber. Stock is fine at first, but you'll need more. The biggest flaw in the 135i (besides being heavy) is its tiny front tire area. First upgrade for me was Dinan Camber plates. Ended up with Ground Control adjustables with the Clubsports. I have -3.2 front, -2.2 Rear. The max tire you can fit in the front without getting the 1M panels and bumper cover is 255s.

Tune. MHD has options and you can get custom tunes (I'd wait till your turbo expires for that). I would try it stock first (maxes at about 8#) just to see and then experiment with the stage tunes. If you want to try above Stage 1, get an upgraded intake (I have a BMS) and FMIC. I went through a 5" Wagner and ended up with an EVO3 Race ( it is...giant). You definitely don't need to start with the EVO3...lol.

Turbo. My turbo died at 108K after about 30 track days. Respectable life IMO. So, plan a turbo upgrade. I recommend PS2. Remember to get the upgraded inlet pipe.

Downpipe. Not a necessary initial mod, but you'll want it to tune higher. I went high flow catted. Others go without the feline aspect. I also ended up with a full Berk race exhaust. Again, no need for any thing like that at the start.

Cooling. This is another of the cars major limitations. Agree with doing the CSF radiator before additional oil coolers. I have the CSF Radiator. I ended up with that, plus two 19 row Setrab oil coolers and a 13 row DCT cooler, and still ran into high temp performance reductions on 90F+ days. This season the oil coolers will be 25 row and the DCT cooler will be 19 row. Hopefully that is the last upgrade because there is no more room in the front end for more coolers. Also, use MHD to code your ECU cooling to "track" for track days.

Related to cooling, if you don't know when your serpentine, tensioner, and pulleys were replaced, just replace them. There is a low percentage issue where a snapped serpentine can wind itself into the engine through the front main seal behind the balancer. This is typically a "need to buy new engine" issue. I purchased the aftermarket plate you can get installed behind there to prevent this. If your OFHG is leaking, this is one of the suspected causes of the belt coming off. So get that fixed as a priority.

I am sure I forgot something.

Basically, As I recall sitting here, the limits I ran into in order from stock were:

1. Brake pads
2. Tires
4. Brakes (went to Stoptechs)
3. Suspension (went to Clubsports)
4. First round of cooling limits - CSF Rad, second oil cooler
5. Added Accusump after seeing 25# oil pressures in long/tight left handers.
6. Second round of cooling limits - upgraded both oil coolers, added DCT cooler.
7. New turbo (also did new stiffer engine mounts and a pan baffle and had the rod bearings done - when you do any work that lowers the subframe, do all the related work you can).
7. Third round of cooling limits - upgrading oil and DCT coolers again

In there I also upgraded RSFB's, exhaust, downpipe, charge pipe, intake, strut bar (mason), LPFP (fuel it stage 2), aluminum undertray, APR Splitter, custom diffuser and CF trunk and hood. And a bunch of other little stuff I am forgetting.

Right now the car is in the shop getting an M2 flywheel put on the DCT and a Wavetrack LSD installed. When I get it back I'll do the cooler upgrades.

Oh, don't forget the Scroth QuickFit Pro harnesses. I really need to do full on race seats and a half cage at least, but I am resisting the final steps of this being a track-only car...

I mention all the stuff above to illustrate how far down the rabbit hole you can go. And there are others farther than I. Just pace yourself.

Bottom line, the car is a lot of fun and if you prioritize reliability and safety mods first, you will maximize your chance of keeping it reliable and usable.
__________________
Best,
Andy

'12 E82-PS2,Stoptechs,Clubsports+M3 bits,Accusump,Wagner DP+EVO III FMIC,ERCP,BMS Intake,Mason Strut Bar,Wedge Tune

Last edited by AndyW; 01-21-2022 at 11:22 PM..
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      01-25-2022, 07:31 PM   #31
Jhonea02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Many of us have done this journey. Lots of good advice already given. I have a 2012 E82 with 110K that is now, "modified". I won't say "heavily" because there are some true race car builds in here and mine is still streetable. I'll summarize what I think will help in the short term and a map that should keep the car fairly reliable with minimal risk of engine damage. But, as always YMMV.

For the most part, I prioritized upgrades to the car in the following priority order: Reliability, safety, performance. There is overlap.

You mentioned that you have 115K and only intend to do 2 track days a year. You didn't mention how much seat time you have in the E36, so I don't know your real starting point or how hard you already know how to push the car. If you don't have much experience and don't consider yourself a "track driver" (sounds like your Dad can advise you here). If you are at the early stages, better tires, brakes, cooling and an Accusump are not needed and you can grow into the car as you hit limits and your budget allows.

First Mods:

Get an ER Charge Pipe. Stock one is plastic and at 115K is waiting to explode. Won't hurt the car but will ruin your track day.

If the water pump/thermostat haven't been replaced, just do it. BMW water pumps fail like clockwork between 75-100K. Think of it as a consumable.

Get some decent racing brake pads for your track days. Use Motul 660 or equivalent. The stock Brembos are actually pretty good and I went several track seasons before the pistons started to crack. I did the upgraded pistons and that worked, but eventually just went full BBK Stoptechs all around. You probably don't need to start with that.

Tires. If you have decent summer tires on, try a track day with those and see how you do. That should be fine for your first season if you only do a few days. Having two sets of wheels really makes life easier. I ran RE-71R's for a number of years. Finally upgraded to NT01's on the new 17" Apex's for dry track and 200TW R1R's on 18's for wet. Wouldn't do R-Comps until you have an Accusump and oil baffle. Plus you'll need stiffer suspension by then anyway.

Suspension. Stock M-sport suspension is fine for your first season or so. The body roll will start telling you when it's time to upgrade. I went from stock to swift springs for a season. Then ended up at Clubsport Coilovers with 450/750. Also added M3 control arms front and rear. Several folks in here are even stiffer than that but car becomes a lot less pleasant to drive on the street.

Camber. Stock is fine at first, but you'll need more. The biggest flaw in the 135i (besides being heavy) is its tiny front tire area. First upgrade for me was Dinan Camber plates. Ended up with Ground Control adjustables with the Clubsports. I have -3.2 front, -2.2 Rear. The max tire you can fit in the front without getting the 1M panels and bumper cover is 255s.

Tune. MHD has options and you can get custom tunes (I'd wait till your turbo expires for that). I would try it stock first (maxes at about 8#) just to see and then experiment with the stage tunes. If you want to try above Stage 1, get an upgraded intake (I have a BMS) and FMIC. I went through a 5" Wagner and ended up with an EVO3 Race ( it is...giant). You definitely don't need to start with the EVO3...lol.

Turbo. My turbo died at 108K after about 30 track days. Respectable life IMO. So, plan a turbo upgrade. I recommend PS2. Remember to get the upgraded inlet pipe.

Downpipe. Not a necessary initial mod, but you'll want it to tune higher. I went high flow catted. Others go without the feline aspect. I also ended up with a full Berk race exhaust. Again, no need for any thing like that at the start.

Cooling. This is another of the cars major limitations. Agree with doing the CSF radiator before additional oil coolers. I have the CSF Radiator. I ended up with that, plus two 19 row Setrab oil coolers and a 13 row DCT cooler, and still ran into high temp performance reductions on 90F+ days. This season the oil coolers will be 25 row and the DCT cooler will be 19 row. Hopefully that is the last upgrade because there is no more room in the front end for more coolers. Also, use MHD to code your ECU cooling to "track" for track days.

Related to cooling, if you don't know when your serpentine, tensioner, and pulleys were replaced, just replace them. There is a low percentage issue where a snapped serpentine can wind itself into the engine through the front main seal behind the balancer. This is typically a "need to buy new engine" issue. I purchased the aftermarket plate you can get installed behind there to prevent this. If your OFHG is leaking, this is one of the suspected causes of the belt coming off. So get that fixed as a priority.

I am sure I forgot something.

Basically, As I recall sitting here, the limits I ran into in order from stock were:

1. Brake pads
2. Tires
4. Brakes (went to Stoptechs)
3. Suspension (went to Clubsports)
4. First round of cooling limits - CSF Rad, second oil cooler
5. Added Accusump after seeing 25# oil pressures in long/tight left handers.
6. Second round of cooling limits - upgraded both oil coolers, added DCT cooler.
7. New turbo (also did new stiffer engine mounts and a pan baffle and had the rod bearings done - when you do any work that lowers the subframe, do all the related work you can).
7. Third round of cooling limits - upgrading oil and DCT coolers again

In there I also upgraded RSFB's, exhaust, downpipe, charge pipe, intake, strut bar (mason), LPFP (fuel it stage 2), aluminum undertray, APR Splitter, custom diffuser and CF trunk and hood. And a bunch of other little stuff I am forgetting.

Right now the car is in the shop getting an M2 flywheel put on the DCT and a Wavetrack LSD installed. When I get it back I'll do the cooler upgrades.

Oh, don't forget the Scroth QuickFit Pro harnesses. I really need to do full on race seats and a half cage at least, but I am resisting the final steps of this being a track-only car...

I mention all the stuff above to illustrate how far down the rabbit hole you can go. And there are others farther than I. Just pace yourself.

Bottom line, the car is a lot of fun and if you prioritize reliability and safety mods first, you will maximize your chance of keeping it reliable and usable.


Im definitely far from a "track driver". I have only had 2 track days in my dads m3. And been to colorado 2 times blasting through mountain roads, once in my dads e36 and once in an m2 which was a blast. But very far from an good driver.

Ill give you a list of "upgrades" if you can call them that, and maintenance.

Upgrades/things done to car:
1.Yokahama advan apex v601 tires, i have really liked them actually
2.H&R lowering springs done by first owner
3.VMR v703 VB3 CSL wheels by previous owner
4.BMS intake done by me
5.VRSF intercooler by me
6.and a 1m style bumper which is obviously not a performance upgrade
7. Upgraded charge pipe done by previous owner

Maintenance:
1. I did waterpump/thermo 4k miles ago at 111k plus a couple coolant hoses
(This is the only thing thats gone wrong in my exactly one year of ownership)
2. So supposedly the OFHG and valve cover gasket was done, no leaks now
3. Going to do spark plugs and coils this month.
4. Control arms both sides
clucth i unfortunately don't know when it was done

Plans before I track:
1.CSF radiator
2. Brake pads (are slotted rotors worth it or just keep stock?)
3. Brake lines maybe
4.eventually rebuild calipers
5. accusump eventually
6. bc coilovers
7. stage 1 turbo because no upgrades are really nnecessary i have read

Thats probably all the further Ill go until i get better because it is my daily also.
I would like to tune the car maybe someday but honestly power isnt really on my mind because it is fast enough already.


Last thing is do you think I should replace rod bearings before i track or no? How worn were yours when you rreplaced yours?
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      01-28-2022, 10:38 PM   #32
edycol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhonea02 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Many of us have done this journey. Lots of good advice already given. I have a 2012 E82 with 110K that is now, "modified". I won't say "heavily" because there are some true race car builds in here and mine is still streetable. I'll summarize what I think will help in the short term and a map that should keep the car fairly reliable with minimal risk of engine damage. But, as always YMMV.

For the most part, I prioritized upgrades to the car in the following priority order: Reliability, safety, performance. There is overlap.

You mentioned that you have 115K and only intend to do 2 track days a year. You didn't mention how much seat time you have in the E36, so I don't know your real starting point or how hard you already know how to push the car. If you don't have much experience and don't consider yourself a "track driver" (sounds like your Dad can advise you here). If you are at the early stages, better tires, brakes, cooling and an Accusump are not needed and you can grow into the car as you hit limits and your budget allows.

First Mods:

Get an ER Charge Pipe. Stock one is plastic and at 115K is waiting to explode. Won't hurt the car but will ruin your track day.

If the water pump/thermostat haven't been replaced, just do it. BMW water pumps fail like clockwork between 75-100K. Think of it as a consumable.

Get some decent racing brake pads for your track days. Use Motul 660 or equivalent. The stock Brembos are actually pretty good and I went several track seasons before the pistons started to crack. I did the upgraded pistons and that worked, but eventually just went full BBK Stoptechs all around. You probably don't need to start with that.

Tires. If you have decent summer tires on, try a track day with those and see how you do. That should be fine for your first season if you only do a few days. Having two sets of wheels really makes life easier. I ran RE-71R's for a number of years. Finally upgraded to NT01's on the new 17" Apex's for dry track and 200TW R1R's on 18's for wet. Wouldn't do R-Comps until you have an Accusump and oil baffle. Plus you'll need stiffer suspension by then anyway.

Suspension. Stock M-sport suspension is fine for your first season or so. The body roll will start telling you when it's time to upgrade. I went from stock to swift springs for a season. Then ended up at Clubsport Coilovers with 450/750. Also added M3 control arms front and rear. Several folks in here are even stiffer than that but car becomes a lot less pleasant to drive on the street.

Camber. Stock is fine at first, but you'll need more. The biggest flaw in the 135i (besides being heavy) is its tiny front tire area. First upgrade for me was Dinan Camber plates. Ended up with Ground Control adjustables with the Clubsports. I have -3.2 front, -2.2 Rear. The max tire you can fit in the front without getting the 1M panels and bumper cover is 255s.

Tune. MHD has options and you can get custom tunes (I'd wait till your turbo expires for that). I would try it stock first (maxes at about 8#) just to see and then experiment with the stage tunes. If you want to try above Stage 1, get an upgraded intake (I have a BMS) and FMIC. I went through a 5" Wagner and ended up with an EVO3 Race ( it is...giant). You definitely don't need to start with the EVO3...lol.

Turbo. My turbo died at 108K after about 30 track days. Respectable life IMO. So, plan a turbo upgrade. I recommend PS2. Remember to get the upgraded inlet pipe.

Downpipe. Not a necessary initial mod, but you'll want it to tune higher. I went high flow catted. Others go without the feline aspect. I also ended up with a full Berk race exhaust. Again, no need for any thing like that at the start.

Cooling. This is another of the cars major limitations. Agree with doing the CSF radiator before additional oil coolers. I have the CSF Radiator. I ended up with that, plus two 19 row Setrab oil coolers and a 13 row DCT cooler, and still ran into high temp performance reductions on 90F+ days. This season the oil coolers will be 25 row and the DCT cooler will be 19 row. Hopefully that is the last upgrade because there is no more room in the front end for more coolers. Also, use MHD to code your ECU cooling to "track" for track days.

Related to cooling, if you don't know when your serpentine, tensioner, and pulleys were replaced, just replace them. There is a low percentage issue where a snapped serpentine can wind itself into the engine through the front main seal behind the balancer. This is typically a "need to buy new engine" issue. I purchased the aftermarket plate you can get installed behind there to prevent this. If your OFHG is leaking, this is one of the suspected causes of the belt coming off. So get that fixed as a priority.

I am sure I forgot something.

Basically, As I recall sitting here, the limits I ran into in order from stock were:

1. Brake pads
2. Tires
4. Brakes (went to Stoptechs)
3. Suspension (went to Clubsports)
4. First round of cooling limits - CSF Rad, second oil cooler
5. Added Accusump after seeing 25# oil pressures in long/tight left handers.
6. Second round of cooling limits - upgraded both oil coolers, added DCT cooler.
7. New turbo (also did new stiffer engine mounts and a pan baffle and had the rod bearings done - when you do any work that lowers the subframe, do all the related work you can).
7. Third round of cooling limits - upgrading oil and DCT coolers again

In there I also upgraded RSFB's, exhaust, downpipe, charge pipe, intake, strut bar (mason), LPFP (fuel it stage 2), aluminum undertray, APR Splitter, custom diffuser and CF trunk and hood. And a bunch of other little stuff I am forgetting.

Right now the car is in the shop getting an M2 flywheel put on the DCT and a Wavetrack LSD installed. When I get it back I'll do the cooler upgrades.

Oh, don't forget the Scroth QuickFit Pro harnesses. I really need to do full on race seats and a half cage at least, but I am resisting the final steps of this being a track-only car...

I mention all the stuff above to illustrate how far down the rabbit hole you can go. And there are others farther than I. Just pace yourself.

Bottom line, the car is a lot of fun and if you prioritize reliability and safety mods first, you will maximize your chance of keeping it reliable and usable.


Im definitely far from a "track driver". I have only had 2 track days in my dads m3. And been to colorado 2 times blasting through mountain roads, once in my dads e36 and once in an m2 which was a blast. But very far from an good driver.

Ill give you a list of "upgrades" if you can call them that, and maintenance.

Upgrades/things done to car:
1.Yokahama advan apex v601 tires, i have really liked them actually
2.H&R lowering springs done by first owner
3.VMR v703 VB3 CSL wheels by previous owner
4.BMS intake done by me
5.VRSF intercooler by me
6.and a 1m style bumper which is obviously not a performance upgrade
7. Upgraded charge pipe done by previous owner

Maintenance:
1. I did waterpump/thermo 4k miles ago at 111k plus a couple coolant hoses
(This is the only thing thats gone wrong in my exactly one year of ownership)
2. So supposedly the OFHG and valve cover gasket was done, no leaks now
3. Going to do spark plugs and coils this month.
4. Control arms both sides
clucth i unfortunately don't know when it was done

Plans before I track:
1.CSF radiator
2. Brake pads (are slotted rotors worth it or just keep stock?)
3. Brake lines maybe
4.eventually rebuild calipers
5. accusump eventually
6. bc coilovers
7. stage 1 turbo because no upgrades are really nnecessary i have read

Thats probably all the further Ill go until i get better because it is my daily also.
I would like to tune the car maybe someday but honestly power isnt really on my mind because it is fast enough already.


Last thing is do you think I should replace rod bearings before i track or no? How worn were yours when you rreplaced yours?
No, slotted rotors are not necessary. You can go by all means if want. But please don't go drilled!
Dimpled rotors are also fine if you just want looks. But regular ATE, Pagid or Zimmerman rotors are fine.
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AndyW596.00
      01-29-2022, 08:52 AM   #33
beattiecj
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A lot of overkill prep in here just to do 2-4 track days just get a set of better pads like carbotech xp8/10 or hawks. Go have fun your motor will not explode lol, at worst it'll go into limp mode or burn a bit of oil.

I started stock was fun then just found the weaknesses as I progressed and upgraded accordingly.

Just start off slow and you'll get the hang of it, get that seat time!

I did 5 or so weekends a year for 3 years no major issues.
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AndyW596.00
      01-29-2022, 05:33 PM   #34
AndyW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhonea02 View Post
Im definitely far from a "track driver". I have only had 2 track days in my dads m3. And been to colorado 2 times blasting through mountain roads, once in my dads e36 and once in an m2 which was a blast. But very far from an good driver.

Ill give you a list of "upgrades" if you can call them that, and maintenance.

Upgrades/things done to car:
1.Yokahama advan apex v601 tires, i have really liked them actually
2.H&R lowering springs done by first owner
3.VMR v703 VB3 CSL wheels by previous owner
4.BMS intake done by me
5.VRSF intercooler by me
6.and a 1m style bumper which is obviously not a performance upgrade
7. Upgraded charge pipe done by previous owner

Maintenance:
1. I did waterpump/thermo 4k miles ago at 111k plus a couple coolant hoses
(This is the only thing thats gone wrong in my exactly one year of ownership)
2. So supposedly the OFHG and valve cover gasket was done, no leaks now
3. Going to do spark plugs and coils this month.
4. Control arms both sides
clucth i unfortunately don't know when it was done

Plans before I track:
1.CSF radiator
2. Brake pads (are slotted rotors worth it or just keep stock?)
3. Brake lines maybe
4.eventually rebuild calipers
5. accusump eventually
6. bc coilovers
7. stage 1 turbo because no upgrades are really nnecessary i have read

Thats probably all the further Ill go until i get better because it is my daily also.
I would like to tune the car maybe someday but honestly power isnt really on my mind because it is fast enough already.


Last thing is do you think I should replace rod bearings before i track or no? How worn were yours when you rreplaced yours?
Late to answer here... Sorry. Only thing on "before I track" list that needs done is brake pads. You'll want to swap between street and race pads.
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