ABS lights still on after wheel speed sensor replacement

Bimmer128i · 01-09-2020, 08:00 PM

Hello, so as I was driving home from work my car threw up all of the ABS lights then about 2 minutes later they all disappeared. The next day all of the lights were on as soon I started the car. I figured it was one of the wheel speed sensors and as I was driving the car started to slow itself down. On my way back from work ever light on the dash came on the speedometer dropped to zero. So I plugged this very basic code reader I had into the car and it told me it was the right rear sensor. I replaced the sensor but this time I put two washers in between. Also, the service engine light comes on and when I clear the rear speed sensor code it disappears. The lights haven't gone away but the speed sensor issue is fixed? I am not too sure what I should do I hope it isn't the DSC control module. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you!

So far I have tried
-Recalibration of the Steering Wheel
-Wheel Speed Sensor change

Tommm · 01-10-2020, 02:07 PM

Why two washers? Is the extra washer interfering with the contact the sensor needs to send data?

Recently I helped a friend pick up a 99 Bently Arnage. On the way back, at nigh, in nowhereland Kansas the cruise control stopped, and the speedo went to zero. Then I noticed the odometer wasn't moving. Turns out it was the left front ABS sensor wire disintegrated. The sensor was only $225 at the Bentley dealer. Since all the mechanicals are BMW we probably could have gotten a BMW part for half if we knew which part would be interchangeable.

iminhell1 · 01-10-2020, 03:14 PM

Use a better scan tool.

The car isn't going to slow itself because a wheel speed is reading wrong.
You have something else going on.

Bimmer128i · 01-10-2020, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Use a better scan tool.

The car isn't going to slow itself because a wheel speed is reading wrong.
You have something else going on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Use a better scan tool.

The car isn't going to slow itself because a wheel speed is reading wrong.
You have something else going on.

I thought that it happens when one speed sensor is reading a different speed then the others and it makes the car feel like it has lost traction?

iminhell1 · 01-11-2020, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer128i

I thought that it happens when one speed sensor is reading a different speed then the others and it makes the car feel like it has lost traction?

If it weren't throwing a code this may be true. But once it throws a code that sensor is ignored.

You have something else going on.

Bimmer128i · 01-11-2020, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer128i

I thought that it happens when one speed sensor is reading a different speed then the others and it makes the car feel like it has lost traction?

If it weren't throwing a code this may be true. But once it throws a code that sensor is ignored.

You have something else going on.

Well this isn't the first time I have had this issue as I had to replace the front wheel sensors. But they never through up the same abs lights only the blinking traction light as I would drive. It was showing the same symptoms as this sensor did when it went out. It may be because I used 2 washers to space it out.

Dackelone · 01-13-2020, 02:54 PM

I agree with iminhell1 ... You need to use a BMW scan tool and see what ABS codes you have.

Go out and buy BMW Carly app and a OBDII dongle. It will be money well spent. You need a BMW code reader and not some generic reader.

IF you used a code reader to pin point a bad speed sensor... it should also be the wheel bearing(going bad and causing the ring sensor to go in and out of its plane in relation to the sensor). Or... the ring could have come loose from the bearing.

IF you are getting ABS, DSC and the warning triangle come on all at the same time... usually after driving for a while... that sounds to me like a bad DSC/ABS module. Its located next to the brake booster under the hood directly in front of the driver. You can send out the ABS ecu to be repaired. Don't try to repair it yourself. Look on ebay for services.

Good Luck,
Dackel

Bimmer128i · 01-13-2020, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dackelone

I agree with iminhell1 ... You need to use a BMW scan tool and see what ABS codes you have.

Go out and buy BMW Carly app and a OBDII dongle. It will be money well spent. You need a BMW code reader and not some generic reader.

IF you used a code reader to pin point a bad speed sensor... it should also be the wheel bearing(going bad and causing the ring sensor to go in and out of its plane in relation to the sensor). Or... the ring could have come loose from the bearing.

IF you are getting ABS, DSC and the warning triangle come on all at the same time... usually after driving for a while... that sounds to me like a bad DSC/ABS module. Its located next to the brake booster under the hood directly in front of the driver. You can send out the ABS ecu to be repaired. Don't try to repair it yourself. Look on ebay for services.

Good Luck,
Dackel

Those three lights are on as soon I turn the car on I will go ahead and buy Carly

iminhell1 · 01-13-2020, 05:08 PM

Early last year I tried using INPA to bleed the brakes. I didn't have the english parts setup so I had to fumble through with german and watching the english version on youtube. There was something not the same between the video and mine and I hit a wrong button.
Ended up screwing up the ABS block and I lost ABS/DSC/E-Diff, etc. Basically the car was now all manual, no nannies at all.

All I had to do was recalibrate the ABS block. But to do this I had to use ISTA-D.
After doing that everything came back and worked better than before actually.

Both ISTA and INPA are the shop level tools. There are shared versions you can find online. But just be aware that it is software you can really screw things up with, and it takes a fair amount of computer to make it work.
It's probably better option to bite the bullet and take it to BMW to have it all reset and checked out. If you screw up, it's going there anyways.

Carly and ProTools can not do abs recalibration. They are more coding and code reading tools. Anything that deals with calibration or updating should be done with other software.

Dackelone · 01-14-2020, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer128i

Those three lights are on as soon I turn the car on I will go ahead and buy Carly

Then it's almost certainly your ABS module has gone bad. Like I said many people on ebay can repair them for a few hundred dollars. The black "box" can unbolt from the ABS block(six torx bolts) and you can send that into a repair service shop on ebay.

For instance like this 2nd search result on ebay. I have no affiliation for them. I'm just showing you that shops CAN repair the ABS module.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...epair&_sacat=0

I had the same problem on my e39 last year. Its the "trifecta" of ABS, DSC and "!" check light that comes on. I sent my module out to be repaired and all is good now.

IF you buy a new control unit(module)... you will need to have it coded to your car. But having your old module repaired is a PnP affair, after the circuit board is repaired.

Dackel

Mr Gasser · 01-14-2020, 07:46 PM

The speed sensor has to read the circumference of the wheel ring, if that ring has trash around it, it can cause a false positive, clean out with brake cleaner and retest.

Bimmer128i · 01-30-2020, 05:49 PM

So, it turns out it was the washers separating the sensor all of the lights disappeared from the dash as I started driving and haven't come back since. Thank you, everyone, for all of the recommendations!

twinturbovan · 02-01-2020, 07:38 PM

My abs lights come on and my gauges stop working occasionally. Its bc of a bad battery control module. It's the red and black boxes on the battery in the trunk. Once it goes bad or or is loose the abs and traction control lights come on. that's what my issue is at least.

Dackelone · 02-01-2020, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer128i

So, it turns out it was the washers separating the sensor all of the lights disappeared from the dash as I started driving and haven't come back since. Thank you, everyone, for all of the recommendations!

Sounds like "rust jacking" on the ABS ring that's part of the CV axle. The rust will build back up and your problem will reoccur. Here is a video about it...

Bimmer128i · 02-01-2020, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinturbovan

My abs lights come on and my gauges stop working occasionally. Its bc of a bad battery control module. It's the red and black boxes on the battery in the trunk. Once it goes bad or or is loose the abs and traction control lights come on. that's what my issue is at least.

Are you sure it isn't your left rear wheel speed sensor?

Bimmer128i · 02-01-2020, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer128i

So, it turns out it was the washers separating the sensor all of the lights disappeared from the dash as I started driving and haven't come back since. Thank you, everyone, for all of the recommendations!

Sounds like "rust jacking" on the ABS ring that's part of the CV axle. The rust will build back up and your problem will reoccur. Here is a video about it...

Yes, I have watched that video it may be temporary but I will be able to have that done at a later date.

twinturbovan · 02-02-2020, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bimmer128i

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinturbovan

My abs lights come on and my gauges stop working occasionally. Its bc of a bad battery control module. It's the red and black boxes on the battery in the trunk. Once it goes bad or or is loose the abs and traction control lights come on. that's what my issue is at least.

Are you sure it isn't your left rear wheel speed sensor?

yes

Mr Gasser · 02-06-2020, 09:58 AM

What BMW car is in this video? which is relevant to this thread BTW: Also I would defiantly flush my brake system regularly.

01-09-2020, 08:00 PM	#1
Bimmer128i Enlisted Member 38 Rep 48 Posts Drives: BMW 128i Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Ohio iTrader: (0)	ABS lights still on after wheel speed sensor replacement Hello, so as I was driving home from work my car threw up all of the ABS lights then about 2 minutes later they all disappeared. The next day all of the lights were on as soon I started the car. I figured it was one of the wheel speed sensors and as I was driving the car started to slow itself down. On my way back from work ever light on the dash came on the speedometer dropped to zero. So I plugged this very basic code reader I had into the car and it told me it was the right rear sensor. I replaced the sensor but this time I put two washers in between. Also, the service engine light comes on and when I clear the rear speed sensor code it disappears. The lights haven't gone away but the speed sensor issue is fixed? I am not too sure what I should do I hope it isn't the DSC control module. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you! So far I have tried -Recalibration of the Steering Wheel -Wheel Speed Sensor change
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01-10-2020, 02:07 PM	#2
Tommm Driven Crazy 190 Rep 505 Posts Drives: his wife nuts 128i 6m Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: The Mile High iTrader: (1)	Why two washers? Is the extra washer interfering with the contact the sensor needs to send data? Recently I helped a friend pick up a 99 Bently Arnage. On the way back, at nigh, in nowhereland Kansas the cruise control stopped, and the speedo went to zero. Then I noticed the odometer wasn't moving. Turns out it was the left front ABS sensor wire disintegrated. The sensor was only $225 at the Bentley dealer. Since all the mechanicals are BMW we probably could have gotten a BMW part for half if we knew which part would be interchangeable. __________________ '08 128i 6M
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01-10-2020, 03:14 PM	#3
iminhell1 C2H5OH 3915 Rep 2,144 Posts Drives: 2010 SG 135i auto Join Date: May 2015 Location: Darwin, MN iTrader: (1)	Use a better scan tool. The car isn't going to slow itself because a wheel speed is reading wrong. You have something else going on.
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01-13-2020, 02:54 PM	#7
Dackelone European Editor 10539 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	I agree with iminhell1 ... You need to use a BMW scan tool and see what ABS codes you have. Go out and buy BMW Carly app and a OBDII dongle. It will be money well spent. You need a BMW code reader and not some generic reader. IF you used a code reader to pin point a bad speed sensor... it should also be the wheel bearing(going bad and causing the ring sensor to go in and out of its plane in relation to the sensor). Or... the ring could have come loose from the bearing. IF you are getting ABS, DSC and the warning triangle come on all at the same time... usually after driving for a while... that sounds to me like a bad DSC/ABS module. Its located next to the brake booster under the hood directly in front of the driver. You can send out the ABS ecu to be repaired. Don't try to repair it yourself. Look on ebay for services. Good Luck, Dackel __________________ Dackel's European Delivery Museum Guide
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01-13-2020, 05:08 PM	#9
iminhell1 C2H5OH 3915 Rep 2,144 Posts Drives: 2010 SG 135i auto Join Date: May 2015 Location: Darwin, MN iTrader: (1)	Early last year I tried using INPA to bleed the brakes. I didn't have the english parts setup so I had to fumble through with german and watching the english version on youtube. There was something not the same between the video and mine and I hit a wrong button. Ended up screwing up the ABS block and I lost ABS/DSC/E-Diff, etc. Basically the car was now all manual, no nannies at all. All I had to do was recalibrate the ABS block. But to do this I had to use ISTA-D. After doing that everything came back and worked better than before actually. Both ISTA and INPA are the shop level tools. There are shared versions you can find online. But just be aware that it is software you can really screw things up with, and it takes a fair amount of computer to make it work. It's probably better option to bite the bullet and take it to BMW to have it all reset and checked out. If you screw up, it's going there anyways. Carly and ProTools can not do abs recalibration. They are more coding and code reading tools. Anything that deals with calibration or updating should be done with other software.
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01-14-2020, 07:46 PM	#11
Mr Gasser First Lieutenant 73 Rep 341 Posts Drives: 135i 09 M-Sport Black on Black Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	The speed sensor has to read the circumference of the wheel ring, if that ring has trash around it, it can cause a false positive, clean out with brake cleaner and retest. __________________ Metallic Black on Black 2009 135i, new waterpump, OFHGs, and VC gasket...RB turbo PCV valve (ooo), NGK performance plugs...V3Cobb access port stage 2+FMIC, Injen intake, Mishimoto clone FMIC, ARM charge pipe, ARM downpipes, Whiteline subframe bushings
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01-30-2020, 05:49 PM	#12
Bimmer128i Enlisted Member 38 Rep 48 Posts Drives: BMW 128i Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Ohio iTrader: (0)	So, it turns out it was the washers separating the sensor all of the lights disappeared from the dash as I started driving and haven't come back since. Thank you, everyone, for all of the recommendations!
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02-01-2020, 07:38 PM	#13
twinturbovan Second Lieutenant 205 Rep 223 Posts Drives: 2009 BMW 135i M Sport Vert Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: San Antonio, TX iTrader: (0)	My abs lights come on and my gauges stop working occasionally. Its bc of a bad battery control module. It's the red and black boxes on the battery in the trunk. Once it goes bad or or is loose the abs and traction control lights come on. that's what my issue is at least.
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02-06-2020, 09:58 AM	#18
Mr Gasser First Lieutenant 73 Rep 341 Posts Drives: 135i 09 M-Sport Black on Black Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	What BMW car is in this video? which is relevant to this thread BTW: Also I would defiantly flush my brake system regularly. __________________ Metallic Black on Black 2009 135i, new waterpump, OFHGs, and VC gasket...RB turbo PCV valve (ooo), NGK performance plugs...V3Cobb access port stage 2+FMIC, Injen intake, Mishimoto clone FMIC, ARM charge pipe, ARM downpipes, Whiteline subframe bushings Last edited by Mr Gasser; 02-06-2020 at 10:04 AM..
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