Just got my second 135i & got some ?'s

[thez99]

Originally Posted by mfindigital

There is a sticky for dct lag issues right above your thread, it's normal but not acceptable. Zx10guy has a write up on what fixed it for him, but i'd say 95% of people saw the issue resolve with a tune (like me, once I went mhd stage 1 the lag went away). PPK fixes it for most people too, any tune seems to help.

Speaking about a DCT tune or just a performance tune in general like JB4?

I've already pretty much sworn off tuning this car as I know it doesn't need anymore power from the ecu. Just a few "helper" mods like intake filter, maybe grab a maddad axleback again as I loved that setup (though I had the maddad mids as well before and I do not have $1300 to spend on exhaust atm).

[elitesales305]

The tip was prolly backed into on a high curb at a wal mart or something that has those super tall fuckin concrete corbits..
The heavy steering.. yea thats why we like these cars.. the faster you go the lighter it should feel.. if its heavy at high speed check the lines and fluid.. this is not ur golf or tt.. this is the ultimate driving machine

[thez99]

Originally Posted by elitesales305

The tip was prolly backed into on a high curb at a wal mart or something that has those super tall fuckin concrete corbits..
The heavy steering.. yea thats why we like these cars.. the faster you go the lighter it should feel.. if its heavy at high speed check the lines and fluid.. this is not ur golf or tt.. this is the ultimate driving machine

I concur it is.

However that's not at all to downgrade the GTI, I've had 3 all separate gen's and they're all fantastic, the 1er just had a special place in my heart that needed to be filled again. There's things I do miss about the gti like the perfect pedal/seat placement and more storage, but I can deal.

[Esteban]

Test drove a new GTI a few years ago and thought it was a very solid car. Quick, handled well and was reasonably priced.

Have had two 135s and really loved them. Good looking, fun, with lots of power. Never thought I'd part with my 2nd 1er. LeMans Blue with the DCT. Truly wonderful car. But just got bored after several years and wanted something different.

Enter the GLI. It's everything (almost) the GTI is, but in sedan form, which has a little less utility but is more my personal taste. Plus lots of tech, including a touch-screen with nav, and most important to me, a back-up camera.

Loved my 135s. Both awesome cars. Will forever be a 1ADDICT and will always understand the love 1er owners have for these great little cars, whether it's a 128i, 135i, or the top of the line 1M.

Congrats OP, on your new (to you) 135i. Love the Mineral Grey and DCT. Hope it brings you years of fun.

[thez99]

So. I think i posted this a few weeks back when it happened, but when I'd been to a local import shop to get the exhaust fixed, they said it was the spring and shoulder bolts from the axleback to the midpipe were bad, they replaced em with shorter bolts, washers and nuts behind them. The exhaust sits center now but the tips are further back then I think they should be, they're slightly behind the valance.

Also they said the hangers were fine, I still am positive the drivers side rear exhaust hanger is bent downward, as its obvious the rubber hanger mount is all jacked up still, it wouldn't be if everything was as it should be. My question is wtf should I do? I'm about to pull on a new Maddad whisper axleback (yes, REAL maddad!) and I want it to fit perfectly! Will the bolts the shop put in place be fine or do I need to get new spring bolts and get the fucking hanger checked??

Also the last two pictures are another question, I know the stock exhaust has a anti-vib mount or something on it, but wtf is this, do I need it and how in gods name do I remove it?? It felt solid and did not give and it's connected to something in the car...

[thez99]

It may be hard to tell, but from the direction the hanger on the exhaust is going, and how fucked up the rubber mount is hanging, I feel like this is how the hanger should actually be sitting

Thoughts!?

[thez99]

Also I just looked up pricing at ECS for those two bolts and springs, $56 for them...Really??

[elitesales305]

Originally Posted by thez99

Also I just looked up pricing at ECS for those two bolts and springs, $56 for them...Really??

Hahahahaha... ohh the joy of bmws
Ok, so i dont know about maddad.. i know they are were good popular... but i like the stockish look of the perf exh.. and the note is awesome.. some complian of drone w the PE.. but i think its the way to go..
If u dont care about leeping it semi stock purist angle..
Then, buy a 1m rear and custom dual tip it.. at that point u can straight pipe to cat downpipe.. or just goto your mids if theyr not all ghetto from what you got going on down there..
If it were me.. if u can.. catless dp/ n55 mids/custom dual exh

[thez99]

Originally Posted by elitesales305

Hahahahaha... ohh the joy of bmws
Ok, so i dont know about maddad.. i know they are were good popular... but i like the stockish look of the perf exh.. and the note is awesome.. some complian of drone w the PE.. but i think its the way to go..
If u dont care about leeping it semi stock purist angle..
Then, buy a 1m rear and custom dual tip it.. at that point u can straight pipe to cat downpipe.. or just goto your mids if theyr not all ghetto from what you got going on down there..
If it were me.. if u can.. catless dp/ n55 mids/custom dual exh

I appreciate the advice on the exhaust but the type of exhaust is really the least of my concerns here

I'm def going with maddad, I had one on my previous 1er and it was perfect, fitment, flow, sound, install. Period. I don't need a $1500 axle back quad exhaust by any means, def don't want to change out my valance either. I may end up going with a vrsf dp but itd be the 200 cell catted version. I can't stand catless, it's entirely too droney, noisey and stinky, not to mention it fucks up your emissions passing.

My issue is much more regarding the apparently bent drivers rear exhaust hanger and how to correct it (Scott from Stromung suggested urging it back with a pipe or hammer. I'm just worried about it snapping)
And also wondering if the new bolts/nuts my shop used would suffice. I know the goodness of the stock bolts, but honestly...with a bolt the exact same size and threads just a little shorter with a solid nut and washers..I don't see why that wouldn't seal the pipes to the gasket just as well as the stock bolts? I mean we're talking a full 2 of each new bolts, nuts, washers, etc. for like 5 bucks versus almost 60 damn dollars for 2 stock bolts and 2 stock springs...Does anyone else concur with me here, anyone else sub'd out cheaper bolts, etc. for them or not? I'm fairly certain my gasket is ok to reuse.

[tracer bullet]

I think the idea of the stock bolts is to allow a little movement. Agreed it might not be needed. I'd think there are other knock-off options that cost less? If not I'd probably go solid as well assuming the alignment of the parts is good - make sure to check that first and proceed with caution.

The hanger should easily be bent into shape without IT snapping, just be careful how you hold it so it doesn't come off the exhaust pipe itself. That's where something could go wrong if it were to go wrong.

[thez99]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

I think the idea of the stock bolts is to allow a little movement. Agreed it might not be needed. I'd think there are other knock-off options that cost less? If not I'd probably go solid as well assuming the alignment of the parts is good - make sure to check that first and proceed with caution.

The hanger should easily be bent into shape without IT snapping, just be careful how you hold it so it doesn't come off the exhaust pipe itself. That's where something could go wrong if it were to go wrong.

Well the hangar that's bent is the black steel one welded to the chassis, not the one on the exhaust itself. I'd have to take that side of the exhaust off the mount and try bending it back. I don't see how a pipe could work as the hangar is S shaped, that would only work with a straight hangar, I guess I could try using a sledge..I dunno, I'm not metal works professional by any means. I have plenty of tools, I just don't wanna fuck it up cuz if it snaps then I have to go to a weld shop and get a new one welded on

[chris82]

Originally Posted by thez99

So after driving a few more days I'm getting the feeling it is more of a getting used to it situation with the steering. It still feels a bit too heavy at times when driving from a start-20mph but overall it feels ok. I am still getting an alignment monday as I have a feeling it needs it.

Hopefully I can get my shop to succesfully bend the exhaust hanger to where it should be without damaging it. I'll likely be getting an exhaust from Stromung (Maddad's manufacturer), but still not positive on that.

Maybe there is a set of M3 control arms installed up front, check for an ///M badge on the arms up front. should be easy to see looking under the car.

IIRC the steering felt a little heavier after installing those.

[chris82]

Originally Posted by thez99

It may be hard to tell, but from the direction the hanger on the exhaust is going, and how fucked up the rubber mount is hanging, I feel like this is how the hanger should actually be sitting

Thoughts!?

What you majestically drew there looks correct to me. Those rubber hangers should not look deformed, if they're all janky like that, it's not right.

[thez99]

Originally Posted by chris82

Maybe there is a set of M3 control arms installed up front, check for an ///M badge on the arms up front. should be easy to see looking under the car.

IIRC the steering felt a little heavier after installing those.

Nah the car is basically stock, the heavy steering was more of a getting used to thing as I've seen now.

I do want the M3 front arms though. Currently if I feel like I'm not broke, my overall suspension mods are such: M3 upper and lower control arms. Dinan camber plates max. Eibach 28mm front sway (because M3 bar is just too much more with additional hardware).

I've considered the Bilstein B12 kit, I just really don't want to lower this car. I def don't feel it needs it, I mean right now the lowest point where the bolts sits running from DP to midpipes are bout 6-7 inches off the ground. My previous GTI could've used a lower but this car is perfect ride height.

I've seen plenty of proof that the sloppy hoppy shit that happens with this platform can be all but corrected with what I have above and perhaps a set of Bilstein B6's. I'm not delving deeper than that honestly, don't have the money for any of that, I could consider shit like solid rear subframe bushings and rear sways, etc. I just don't honestly feel the rear needs near as much work on this car as the front. Not at least for the cost to performance/feel outcome ratio.

I'm sure there's plenty on here that'd refute that and say go all out on the rear too, point is i'm not tracking this car and I don't have a ton of money to unload on mods anyways. The suspension fixes are much more for fixing the front slop and allowing better steer and grip. Not near as much needed for the rears unless you really beat the absolute shit out of the car

[thez99]

Also, I THINK i've kind of gave up the idea of changing out my wheels. There's just not near enough of a selection for a staggered set to fit this car without either modding the fuck outta the car or paying WAY out the ass for the wheels. I had my eye on the VMR 701's but I've been informed they no longer make the 18x9.5 et50's for the rears nor do they offer the powdercoat i'd like either and for the cost and minimal weight reduction there's no point after that. Also looked at Konig freeforms which are nice but the only set that would work would be a square set with 18.8.5 et43's with 235/40 tires but there's possible fitment issues there, and its at least another grand there.

So I may just swap out tires on my oe 261's, question though, would 235/40's fit on my front 18x7.5's and 255/35's on my rear 18x8.5's?

[thez99]

Hah, so yea I've listed a bunch of random shit.

Here's the list of shit I need to know::

1.What's up with the black thing I showed above connected to the rear exhaust, how do I remove it, what's it connected too??

2. Answer to the new size tires on the stock wheels question

3. Best way to effectively bend the stupid rear steel hanger back, when it's an S shaped hanger bent at the area it's welded to the car?

4. Whether the new bolts the shop put on would work alright or do I really need to form over $56 for 2 goddamn shoulder bolts and springs??

[chris82]

Originally Posted by thez99

Nah the car is basically stock, the heavy steering was more of a getting used to thing as I've seen now.

I do want the M3 front arms though. Currently if I feel like I'm not broke, my overall suspension mods are such: M3 upper and lower control arms. Dinan camber plates max. Eibach 28mm front sway (because M3 bar is just too much more with additional hardware).

I've considered the Bilstein B12 kit, I just really don't want to lower this car. I def don't feel it needs it, I mean right now the lowest point where the bolts sits running from DP to midpipes are bout 6-7 inches off the ground. My previous GTI could've used a lower but this car is perfect ride height.

I've seen plenty of proof that the sloppy hoppy shit that happens with this platform can be all but corrected with what I have above and perhaps a set of Bilstein B6's. I'm not delving deeper than that honestly, don't have the money for any of that, I could consider shit like solid rear subframe bushings and rear sways, etc. I just don't honestly feel the rear needs near as much work on this car as the front. Not at least for the cost to performance/feel outcome ratio.

I'm sure there's plenty on here that'd refute that and say go all out on the rear too, point is i'm not tracking this car and I don't have a ton of money to unload on mods anyways. The suspension fixes are much more for fixing the front slop and allowing better steer and grip. Not near as much needed for the rears unless you really beat the absolute shit out of the car

You will be very happy with M3 front arms and that sway bar. I put the m3 arms and sway bar in all at once, can't beat the performance gain for the price. Stock just feels lazy in comparison

I also drove a 1 series with the bilstein b12 kit. I used to have a JRZ setup and was very impressed with how well the b12 handled, not super low either. I just purchased Koni adjustables and the Eibach pro kit. Will post my impressions once it's installed. Bimmerworld is having a nice sale on koni and Eibach products, currently 20% off koni and 10% Eibach springs, worth looking at!

[chris82]

Originally Posted by thez99

Hah, so yea I've listed a bunch of random shit.

Here's the list of shit I need to know::

1.What's up with the black thing I showed above connected to the rear exhaust, how do I remove it, what's it connected too??

2. Answer to the new size tires on the stock wheels question

3. Best way to effectively bend the stupid rear steel hanger back, when it's an S shaped hanger bent at the area it's welded to the car?

4. Whether the new bolts the shop put on would work alright or do I really need to form over $56 for 2 goddamn shoulder bolts and springs??

That black thing controls the exhaust flap in one of the tips. Search for golf tee mod, a lot of people just remove it, also the performance exhaust does not have a connection for it FYI so it's safe to remove.

[thez99]

Originally Posted by chris82

You will be very happy with M3 front arms and that sway bar. I put the m3 arms and sway bar in all at once, can't beat the performance gain for the price. Stock just feels lazy in comparison

I also drove a 1 series with the bilstein b12 kit. I used to have a JRZ setup and was very impressed with how well the b12 handled, not super low either. I just purchased Koni adjustables and the Eibach pro kit. Will post my impressions once it's installed. Bimmerworld is having a nice sale on koni and Eibach products, currently 20% off koni and 10% Eibach springs, worth looking at!

Originally Posted by chris82

That black thing controls the exhaust flap in one of the tips. Search for golf tee mod, a lot of people just remove it, also the performance exhaust does not have a connection for it FYI so it's safe to remove.

So the flap thing has a wire attached that passes underneath panneling but I couldn't really see how it could be removed, the wire is so short too so I can't remove the exhaust first. Can you just yank the wire out of the exhaust or cut it? What then, do most just duct tape it to the underbelly? Any codes thrown from it not being connected?

I'm still considering the control arms and front sway, also possibly considering the Koni special Actives as they've gotten some great raves and apparently all that was wrong with the past FSD's was fixed with these. Not to mention a full set costs less than half what a set of bilsteins or coilovers costs!

[Captain Blood]

Originally Posted by thez99

Is the slight lag on acceleration with the DCT normal from a near stand still? Happens usually when I come to a stop sign and go again, feels like a light bit of lag, not turbo lag or anything obviously. May just be another bit of getting used to pedal feel, etc.

P.S. I now remember again full circle why I lovingly hated the pedal position in this car. Dead pedal and other pedals are set slightly to the left versus the straight seat position, yet another thing to get back to used too. The wider brake pedal on the 13' DCT doesn't help that but eh well

Oh yea, also turns out the exhaust issue was due to the bolts connecting axle-back to mid-pipe were either incorrect, busted or something. Shop had to replace the bolts which apparently set the exhaust back where it needed to be, up and to the left. Though the rubber hanger adapter on the driver's side of the exhaust still looks bent up. Not sure if it's just going to stay that way, perhaps I'll just replace that rubber bit if I ever go with a diff exhaust

Is it better with the AC turned off? I could be a software problem. If the ac is on (I recommend turning the AC to 60 and making sure it is on full blast) and it lags and lurches, its the DCT software.

[thez99]

Originally Posted by Captain Blood

Is it better with the AC turned off? I could be a software problem. If the ac is on (I recommend turning the AC to 60 and making sure it is on full blast) and it lags and lurches, its the DCT software.

Nah I hardly ever use A/C in the car.

The pause is random and usually happens when I've slowed to a temp stop and got on it again. It may just be a pedal slip but also prob just the DCT catching up. I'm sure there's a DCT "tune" somewhere to make it lightening fast all the time, but that also prob kills the tranny a lot faster

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by thez99

Nah I hardly ever use A/C in the car.

The pause is random and usually happens when I've slowed to a temp stop and got on it again. It may just be a pedal slip but also prob just the DCT catching up. I'm sure there's a DCT "tune" somewhere to make it lightening fast all the time, but that also prob kills the tranny a lot faster

PPK worked for me. But then I got Dinan Stage 2. Others like MHD, which is newer and better, according to some. I was happy with Dinan. You have a 2013 and that presents some complications because of the newer DME.

Honestly I never had any of the DCT issues (throttle lag, idle fluctuation, lurching forward - there are several threads about it) with my 2011 that other folks had but that could be because I got PPK almost right after I got the car.