BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      04-13-2019, 02:22 AM   #23
juld0zer
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Fully charge the battery and try again. Better yet, if you have access to a workshop power supply connect it and then cold start it. The charger will reduce to load on the alternator to almost zero and if the alternator is at fault then your noise should reduce in duration or be gone.

On engines that have clutched alternator pulleys, a chirping belt is a symptom but i have found no documentation on this species of Denso alternator. The pulley visually looks like a solid steel pulley.

All N20 and N55 harmonic balancers have a bit of wobble in them. Even on brand new cars. The reason for using the flywheel lock tool is so you don't use the central crank bolt to counter hold the crank whilst tightening the harmonic balancer bolts. If that central bolt loosens, you cannot guarantee the engine is timed correctly anymore as there is no key.
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      04-13-2019, 02:23 AM   #24
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Also make sure the belt is correct and the alternator you purchased is correct. N54 alternators will not be suitable
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      04-13-2019, 10:10 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mybimmer View Post
Trying another belt would have been the cheaper and first thing to rule out. You're gonna kick yourself if it's the belt dude.
I think I may have to kick myself...replaced the belt again with a continental brand vice gates. About 100 miles now and the sound has not come back. Lesson learned - replace all the less expensive stuff TWICE before replacing any major component.

Oh, and don't buy Gates belts, I suppose...
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      04-16-2019, 06:18 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
I think I may have to kick myself...replaced the belt again with a continental brand vice gates. About 100 miles now and the sound has not come back. Lesson learned - replace all the less expensive stuff TWICE before replacing any major component.

Oh, and don't buy Gates belts, I suppose...
At least its sorted mate.
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      04-26-2019, 08:16 PM   #27
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As odd as it seems, I went through this last fall. It's likely the valve cover. $120 on ebay with a new gasket and it takes about 2-3 hours.

You must remove the cowling under the windshield( which means the wipers) and the braces/supports. It makes getting the three bolts on the back easy. Otherwise it's an insane nightmare. the 3 mins to get that stuff out of the way makes it easy.
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      05-26-2019, 02:49 PM   #28
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Sidenote, I also just recently started chasing a squeak - serpentine belt, deflector pulleys, and tensioner and over running alternator got it.

But the surprise kicker was that I had to floss the crank pulley/harmonic balancer with twine. I was measuring for some bypass length belts and noticed the twine was extremely nasty. I found way too much grime accumulated in the CP/HB so I flossed it till the twine was clean and no more grime in any of the v groove channels.

Started up with new belt extremely quiet. almost too quiet. It's nice.
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      05-27-2019, 01:45 AM   #29
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A dab of silicone based grease usually stops any noise. $1.99 at any auto parts store.
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      05-27-2019, 07:10 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallicia View Post
Sidenote, I also just recently started chasing a squeak - serpentine belt, deflector pulleys, and tensioner and over running alternator got it.

But the surprise kicker was that I had to floss the crank pulley/harmonic balancer with twine. I was measuring for some bypass length belts and noticed the twine was extremely nasty. I found way too much grime accumulated in the CP/HB so I flossed it till the twine was clean and no more grime in any of the v groove channels.

Started up with new belt extremely quiet. almost too quiet. It's nice.
A lot of folks (even experienced guys) downplay the importance of having clean pulleys. Fact is, belts wear down on the sides of their ribs mainly. As the ribs wear, they get thinner so the peaks of the ribs eventually can touch the valleys of the pulley ribs, depositing rubber. Slap on a new belt and since the pulleys are also slightly worn, the new belt's ribs sit lower and closer to the pulley's valleys, elevating the belt and causing the ribs to not make proper contact.

Leaky oil filter housings melt the rubber belt, which adds to this problem.
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      05-27-2019, 07:33 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
A lot of folks (even experienced guys) downplay the importance of having clean pulleys. Fact is, belts wear down on the sides of their ribs mainly. As the ribs wear, they get thinner so the peaks of the ribs eventually can touch the valleys of the pulley ribs, depositing rubber. Slap on a new belt and since the pulleys are also slightly worn, the new belt's ribs sit lower and closer to the pulley's valleys, elevating the belt and causing the ribs to not make proper contact.

Leaky oil filter housings melt the rubber belt, which adds to this problem.
Clean ensures proper functioning, anyone who ignores grime is asking for problems. Squeaky clean ensures no squeaking!
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