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      06-24-2019, 11:58 AM   #1
OkieSnuffBox
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High RPM rattle? '13 135, DCT, 34k miles, all stock

So yesterday on the way home, I accelerated hard from a stop light, around 4500 rpms, I start hearing this weird metallic rattle that grows with RPMs.

Tried it a few more times on the way home, same strange rattle starting about 4500 and getting louder as the RPMs go up.

Car was still running fine, no ticking/knocking at idle, it didn't seem to effect power, and is otherwise running fine everywhere else in the RPM range with no noise. So I don't suspect it's a rod knock or anything.

It reminds of the "marbles in a can" sound when the VANOS on an E36/E46 was starting to fail..........but more much more aggressive.

Ideas? I've read N55s don't really have the wastegate problem (and that seems to be at idle and cold from what I've read here), it sounds like it's coming from the front so I don't think it's the exhaust flap issue.

I thought I've read that as the tensioner gets close to failing it can make weird noises? But I just had the OFHG changed back in December and they gave it and the belt a clean bill of health so to speak.
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      06-24-2019, 01:45 PM   #2
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Tensioner and the OFHG usually result in a squeak more than a rattle. Will it do it at a stop? Maybe have someone look in the engine bay while you rev up to see if they/you can pinpoint a little easier?

Also, any codes, lights on dash, hesitations, anything?
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      06-24-2019, 02:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Tensioner and the OFHG usually result in a squeak more than a rattle. Will it do it at a stop? Maybe have someone look in the engine bay while you rev up to see if they/you can pinpoint a little easier?

Also, any codes, lights on dash, hesitations, anything?
I did a few quick revs when I got home and didn't hear it, but may not have revv'd it hard enough.

No codes, lights, anything. It's really weird. I'm going to run it by my indy shop on Thursday morning and have him take a look.

Just thought I'd ask here first in case anyone had any insight.
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      06-25-2019, 08:33 AM   #4
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You sure it’s coming from under hood? If so have someone sit it car at idle and run up the rpms while you keep your head nearly the engine to see if you can isolate the noise. If that doesn’t work try a long wrench extension and use it as a mechanics stethoscope and touch it around and listen, that usually works well.
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      06-25-2019, 12:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54Yankee View Post
You sure it’s coming from under hood? If so have someone sit it car at idle and run up the rpms while you keep your head nearly the engine to see if you can isolate the noise. If that doesn’t work try a long wrench extension and use it as a mechanics stethoscope and touch it around and listen, that usually works well.
I wouldn't testify in court, but it definitely seemed like it was coming from in front of me.

I didn't do get on it, on the way to work this morning. But it started up just fine, no weird noises or anything, and drove just the way it normally does.
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      06-27-2019, 03:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54Yankee View Post
You sure it’s coming from under hood? If so have someone sit it car at idle and run up the rpms while you keep your head nearly the engine to see if you can isolate the noise. If that doesn’t work try a long wrench extension and use it as a mechanics stethoscope and touch it around and listen, that usually works well.
My mechanic confirmed my worst fears this morning, the beginnings of rod knock. $5500-6000 to put in a USED engine. This car has been nightmare from the beginning.

I summarily drove the car 1.5 miles away and traded it in on a used, '18 Mazda 3.
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      06-27-2019, 03:52 PM   #7
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Sorry to hear that and enjoy the new ride.
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      06-27-2019, 06:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox View Post
My mechanic confirmed my worst fears this morning, the beginnings of rod knock. $5500-6000 to put in a USED engine. This car has been nightmare from the beginning.

I summarily drove the car 1.5 miles away and traded it in on a used, '18 Mazda 3.
Damn, that sucks. For the internet archive, can you let us know a brief history of the car? Mileage, previous maintenance, any other history (has it been tracked, tuned, motor opened before, vanos recall, etc, etc)
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      06-28-2019, 12:41 PM   #9
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Damn, that sucks. For the internet archive, can you let us know a brief history of the car? Mileage, previous maintenance, any other history (has it been tracked, tuned, motor opened before, vanos recall, etc, etc)
I mentioned the mileage in the title, but to be more specific, it was 33,900 when I traded it in yesterday. Bone stock. I was the 2nd owner, the first thing I did when I brought it home was a fresh oil change, bleed the brakes, change the filters.

No tracking, stock tune (mentioned in the thread title), it's a 2013 (again as mentioned in the title of the thread) so it didn't have the VANOS recall. The car saw about 40 miles a week, since I only go into the office 3 days a week and it's only 5 miles from my house.

The last oil change was December (by a competent indy shop), OFHG in Feb, DCT reprogrammed in April.

I have a buddy that runs an indy BMW shop in the Nashville area, he said he's seen lots of N55 bearing problems, and they typically happen after an oil change or OFHG replacement. He has some speculation but no hard proof yet.
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      06-28-2019, 12:47 PM   #10
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Yeah, bearing failure at that mileage I would think would be very rare. I thought I read a horror story about getting coolant into the oil during an OFHG replacement and then engine failure, I wonder if that might have been the cause as well here.

No chance you took an oil sample for analysis before you traded it in right?
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      07-01-2019, 07:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Yeah, bearing failure at that mileage I would think would be very rare. I thought I read a horror story about getting coolant into the oil during an OFHG replacement and then engine failure, I wonder if that might have been the cause as well here.

No chance you took an oil sample for analysis before you traded it in right?
I guess that's possible, but I doubt it.

No oil sample, had no real reason too. I specifically avoided an E92 M3 because of the bearing issues and went with the 135.

My mechanic here said he has seen some bearing issues with the N55 engine. He basically said, everything on the N55 (turbo/wastegate/injectors/etc) is more reliable than the N54.........except the bearings. But admitted it's still really rare to see one with issues and such low mileage............and not tuned or abused.


Bad luck I suppose. It happens.
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