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      07-11-2017, 09:24 AM   #67
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Anyone have any experience with the BMS SSK + Billet shift rod? Particularly on the N54 6MT.
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      07-13-2017, 03:47 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Anyone have any experience with the BMS SSK + Billet shift rod? Particularly on the N54 6MT.
I've got the BMS SSK (Shifteck) and the billet rod. Throws are shorter and was pretty stiff on initial installation. After some time throws became less tight.
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      07-13-2017, 04:44 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inevitab1e View Post
I've got the BMS SSK (Shifteck) and the billet rod. Throws are shorter and was pretty stiff on initial installation. After some time throws became less tight.
Thanks. Less tight as in good like breaking in a rifle bolt? Or less tight as in loose.
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      07-13-2017, 07:25 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Thanks. Less tight as in good like breaking in a rifle bolt? Or less tight as in loose.
Loose, meaning it takes less effort to throw it. Maybe it was just the installation guy who did mine. But it was tight in neutral too, left/right movements.

Feels good now, I recommend it.
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      07-13-2017, 08:27 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inevitab1e View Post
Loose, meaning it takes less effort to throw it. Maybe it was just the installation guy who did mine. But it was tight in neutral too, left/right movements.

Feels good now, I recommend it.
Awesome. I'll be getting one soon!
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      07-14-2017, 06:42 PM   #72
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Hmmm. I thought you could re us the old carrier


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You'll need the carrier too just so you know.
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      07-14-2017, 08:17 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by d k View Post
Hmmm. I thought you could re us the old carrier
Do you mean #7 in the first diagram bellow? If so... yes, you can reuse that with a new shift lever.


The white plastic bushing(#4) for the shift lever should always be replaced. Most of the time it gets brittle since it sits right on top of the exhaust. Always replace it.

You should also buy new washers and c-clips(#6) for the rod linkage... you WILL loose one or more and then your F'd. Buy some spares they are cheap.

135i Perf shifter
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128i shifter
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      09-20-2017, 02:00 PM   #74
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Measured my 2012 N55 6MT throws, with ZHP knob.
1st to 2nd, measured C-to-C at the bottom of the collar at the base of the knob:

Stock: 70mm

with E60 550i SSK Lever: 57mm.

Bear in mind, the 550i lever raises the top of the knob about an inch higher than the stock lever did.
Throws feel super short and positive!

Now I just need to take it out again to un-bend it so neutral is in the center of the gate...
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      09-21-2017, 05:06 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
Measured my 2012 N55 6MT throws, with ZHP knob.
1st to 2nd, measured C-to-C at the bottom of the collar at the base of the knob:

Stock: 70mm

with E60 550i SSK Lever: 57mm.

Bear in mind, the 550i lever raises the top of the knob about an inch higher than the stock lever did.
Throws feel super short and positive!

Now I just need to take it out again to un-bend it so neutral is in the center of the gate...
Great! I really love my 550i shifter installed on my e39/540i. Even though the throw must be close to the Perf SSK on my 135i... the 55i shifter just feels better to me. I don't know what it is... but I really like the 550i shifter.

Yep, now you know what I meant about bending the shift lever so it sits right in the 135i.

take care,
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      09-22-2017, 10:38 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Great! I really love my 550i shifter installed on my e39/540i. Even though the throw must be close to the Perf SSK on my 135i... the 55i shifter just feels better to me. I don't know what it is... but I really like the 550i shifter.

Yep, now you know what I meant about bending the shift lever so it sits right in the 135i.

take care,
Dckel
I know, and I knew. I just had some trouble setting it up, and told myself "maybe it's close enough".
Then I buttoned it all up before checking, because - midnight. And couldn't undo since I had to drive to work in the morning.

As it is, it feels amazing shifting into 2nd and 4th!
5th and 6th give interference issues, and R, 1 and 3 feel a little rubbery. But I'm pretty sure that in addition to stretching out the boot on each of those, I'm also running into the foam inner surround. Gonna try to clear it up this weekend.
Aluminum trim Ring and longer leather boot are on order, but not expected for a little while yet.

I think the thing that feels amazing about this shifter lever is the height.
Shifts like a little snick-snick stubby jobby, but your hand is in a comfortable position away from the console and up near the steering wheel.
Makes me feel like I'm shifting a race car!

For me, it also makes the CDV delete, UCP, and exhaust work in perfect harmony on every shift. Just a delight to run through the gears.
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      09-22-2017, 06:45 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post

I think the thing that feels amazing about this shifter lever is the height.
Shifts like a little snick-snick stubby jobby, but your hand is in a comfortable position away from the console and up near the steering wheel.
Makes me feel like I'm shifting a race car!

For me, it also makes the CDV delete, UCP, and exhaust work in perfect harmony on every shift. Just a delight to run through the gears.

Cool! Take some pics when you get a chance. Sounds like this mod is a must have - just like I thought.

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      09-23-2017, 12:18 AM   #78
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Pics are on Pg5 of the other SSK thread.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...=806148&page=5

Here's my current 5th gear location!


Last edited by tjswarbrick; 09-23-2017 at 06:57 AM..
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      09-24-2017, 02:09 AM   #79
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Took it apart again. Had the lever in hand in 20 minutes - a definite improvement!

Tried the vice and sockets trick. Nothing doing. Wouldn't budge.
Tried a pipe vice and standing on the thing. Same effect - nothing. Just flexes - no deformation.
( Any engineers watching - that isn't 100% accurate. Got some elastic deformation, but no plastic deformation. No permanent change.)

Finally went down to the local HF. Picked up a 1 Ton manual press. With that and the pipe vice I finally got some movement. Straightened out the front-to-back kink in the 550i Short lever. Side to side was still there - knuckles still knocked the cupholder.
Yes - I could still pull the cupholder. But I like having water handy on long drives. More importantly, Neutral wasn't centered in the gate.

Was going to un-bend in the other direction, but decided to flip it around 180 degrees first.
Success!!!

Neutral is in neutral. Hand doesn't interfere with hardware.

More accurate throw measurement gives 58mm. Will have more information on feel after Sundays 250 mile drive.
A few pics once I get home.
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      09-25-2017, 01:36 PM   #80
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Okay. (Hopefully) Final Update:

Love, love, love the 550i ssk lever in the N55 135i. Short, tight, positive. Gets the UCP (in central "sport" setting), MDP Cold Air Intake, and AP Exhaust, to sing in unison on every shift Both up- and down-!

However, getting there was a giant pain in the butt.
Vice trick had no effect on that steel rod. Mostly because it would just flex inside the plastic mounts in the upper lever.

Rod is in car at this point, but here's the setup I would up using to straighten it out:



Even had to drill a hole toward the front of the press. With massive lag bolts tightened all the way down at the rear position, the thing still wanted to pull off the header before the lever arm gave way.

Here it is, installed "backward", in the neutral position:



And here it is in 5th, with plenty of clearance for my knuckles:


Found a used trim ring because the forward tabs were broken previously and the one nearest the I-Drive controller gave its life for this little exercise. Should arrive in about a week. But the old one actually still snaps in there nice and tight.

Looks like the longer, leather shift boot is about 2 weeks out. Haven't received confirmation yet. Stock one still tugs in R and 5 if snugged down below knob. 1/2" would probably have done, but getting it an inch longer means I've got a little more leeway for cementing it to the ring and zip-tying it to the lever.
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      10-02-2017, 11:11 AM   #81
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So what would be the culprit of problems going into first sometimes? Sitting at a light, trying to go into first, wall. Have to put into 2nd and back to 1st. Transmission fluid change would help?
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      10-02-2017, 12:48 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inevitab1e View Post
So what would be the culprit of problems going into first sometimes? Sitting at a light, trying to go into first, wall. Have to put into 2nd and back to 1st. Transmission fluid change would help?
Fairly normal, really.
I try to double-clutch into first while moving whenever I can. When I go to first from a standstill and it balks, back into 2nd or Reverse, then 1st, usually takes care of it. Certainly not specific to the 1.
Usually just slipping it to neutral, letting the clutch out, and depressing it again will align things and let you slide into 1st. But I find it just as quick to snick it into another gear real quick.

Has it gotten worse?

I replaced tranny oil with Redline ATF in my N55 6MT gearbox. It lightened things up a slight bit when warm, made it a little notchier when cold, and other than the first time when cold really had no noticeable effect on 1st gear engagement. (Made that worse, actually - not better. But only slightly.)
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      10-03-2017, 10:06 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjswarbrick View Post
Fairly normal, really.
I try to double-clutch into first while moving whenever I can. When I go to first from a standstill and it balks, back into 2nd or Reverse, then 1st, usually takes care of it. Certainly not specific to the 1.
Usually just slipping it to neutral, letting the clutch out, and depressing it again will align things and let you slide into 1st. But I find it just as quick to snick it into another gear real quick.

Has it gotten worse?

I replaced tranny oil with Redline ATF in my N55 6MT gearbox. It lightened things up a slight bit when warm, made it a little notchier when cold, and other than the first time when cold really had no noticeable effect on 1st gear engagement. (Made that worse, actually - not better. But only slightly.)
I wouldn't say it's gotten worse, it's just annoying having to think about it at a light. In my mind I'm thinking "is it going to cooperate this time?" Doesn't happen often, maybe a couple times a week.
There's no harm in putting a little elbow grease to engage is there? (transmission can handle force while putting into gear?)
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      10-04-2017, 03:41 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inevitab1e View Post
So what would be the culprit of problems going into first sometimes? Sitting at a light, trying to go into first, wall. Have to put into 2nd and back to 1st. Transmission fluid change would help?
This sounds like a classic bad clutch disc to me. The disc isn't sliding freely on the splines.

Next time that it happens.... HOLD your foot down on the clutch with your hand trying to put the car into 1st... then with your other hand... switch off the engine. IF the gear lever slides into first gear as the engine spins down... then it's your clutch disc! Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

This is why the clutch disc has a nickel coating on it and the installer has to put a minimal amount of grease on those splines. Too much and you get this problem. Too little and the same. Also... driving into deep water can let water get up into the clutch area and cause some rust on the splines. I take it you have not been driving into any deep puddles lately ?

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      10-18-2017, 12:39 PM   #85
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Finally! Got my package from Italy.

Installed the longer Redline leather shift boot to go with my SSK lever:




This is the new Neutral.
2, 4 and 6 are just barely behind it.

Glad I got the "Regular" and not the Nappa - the grain texture is just right.

I'm pretty sure the stock boot is a petroleum and not a bovine product. Shrank when heated, smelled bad, never felt quite like the real thing, and this new one matched the knob and handbrake much better.
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      10-24-2017, 01:22 AM   #86
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Now that I'm happy with the short shifter, I used a smaller zip-tie to secure the top of my new shift boot, and RTV'd the knob in place:





So much fun, I ride around a gear high just to blipshift down at every opportunity.
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      10-25-2017, 01:56 PM   #87
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tjswarbrick I'm happy everything worked out for your SSK. Like I have said... this e60 550i shifter is my favorite shifter of all time. I love it in my e39 540i manual and I think more people will use it on their 135i's now that they can see your photos and how you mod'd it to fit on your 1er. Thanks for posting your awesome pics!

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      10-25-2017, 03:02 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
tjswarbrick I'm happy everything worked out for your SSK. Like I have said... this e60 550i shifter is my favorite shifter of all time. I love it in my e39 540i manual and I think more people will use it on their 135i's now that they can see your photos and how you mod'd it to fit on your 1er. Thanks for posting your awesome pics!

Dackel
Thanks Dackel!
With an aftermarket clutch stop, CDV delete, and UCP, it's a brilliant upgrade and makes the car shift like a dream.
However, I don't want people going into it thinking for under $100 the E60 550 SSK Shift Lever is a drop-in replacement for their 135i.
I can't speak directly to the N54 gearbox, but on my N55 I needed to straighten out the lever, and get a longer shift boot, to make it work.
If you don't have the tools and talent to straighten it and remove/replace the boot, or are paying someone to do it for you, you may be better off with an aftermarket solution. But if a little manual labor doesn't scare you away, and you realize you'll need to get a new boot, it is highly recommended!
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