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12-20-2009, 09:00 PM | #23 |
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Drives: 1988 M3, 1990 M3, 1998 M3/4
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
iTrader: (7)
Garage List 1998 BMW M3/4 [10.00]
2011 BMW M3 Sedan [9.28] 1988 BMW M3 [9.40] 1990 BMW M3 [10.00] 2008 BMW 135i - sold [0.00] 2003 BMW M3 - sold [0.00] |
Honestly, I would call Harold at HPautowerks and talk with him about what you want out of your setup and listen to what he recommends. There were some things he recommended for my car that seemed completely off the wall to me, but in hindsight, I'm glad I trusted him. My personal opinion is that if you are mainly just wanting to lower the car some, do some springs. If you want to change the way it drives....do the M3 bits.....ALL of them (subframe bushings as well). The trick here is you need to decide what to do with your swaybars and replace the rear bar when you do the subframe bushings. Search for posts by Orb and see what he has done to his car. He has supplied Harold with a lot of technical information that just flat out WORKS!! I cannot begin to describe how happy I am with how my car rides and handles on both the street and my one outing autoXing. The car is completely transformed to the point that I don't regret not getting an M3 and yet it is still extremely comfortable on the street with pretty stiff springs.
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1988 BMW M3 - Hennarot/Black
1990 BMW M3 racecar - Diamond Schwarz/Black 1998 BMW M3 - Alpine White/Mulberry 2011 BMW 328i racecar - LeMans Blue/Black |
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