BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      07-06-2016, 01:12 AM   #1
Foxadn
Private
11
Rep
67
Posts

Drives: BMW 135i 2011
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: San Jose, CA

iTrader: (1)

E82 Audio Upgrade vs Coding, MOST, etc..

Hi all,

I've been doing extensive research over the last month before jumping into my next project: upgrading my sound system! However I still have some unanswered questions, and I hope there is someone out there who can shed some light for me

Car info:
2011 135i
Prod. date: 07/10
Engine: N55
Region: US

Head unit: Professional (663)
Speakers: Base (Stereo)

Other possibly relevant equipment:
- USB/Audio interface (6FL)
- Complete prep. cellular phone USA/CDN (639) - I have an use hands-free BT with the radio
- Satellite radio (655)


What I am planning on doing:
- add tweeters in the A-pillar (currently plastic covers with no griles)
- replace midrange speakers with better quality (TBD)
- replace underseat woofers with Morel MW266 (requires custom spacer/adapter)
- add JL Audio XD700/5 to power the tweeters, midranges and woofers (paralleled)
- add a DSP between the head unit and the amplifier (miniDSP balanced)
- use Metra or Scosche connectors to make a harness that won't require cutting any wires from the car harness

What I am not sure of yet:
- either code my head unit to Hifi and add a small 2ch amp for the rear (nice-to-have down the road)
OR
- leave the rear speakers powered by the main unit and defeat the Base EQ in the DSP


Prep work so far:
- installed the BMW programming tools suite on my mac running WinXP (parallels)
- ordered a K+D-CAN cable from eBay (link)
- ordered the Morel woofers
- ordered amp install kit
- bought the JL amp (used)


Some questions:

1. Has anybody measured the rms output level of the Pro head unit at max volume?
bmw oem audio systems tis.pdf says 4x25W / 2 Ohm (4 Ohm mids // 4 Ohm woofers)
--> that would mean that the voltage out is sqrt(25*2) = 7.1Vrms
--> therefore each 4 Ohm speaker would receive: ((7.1)^2)/4 = 12.5W

I read another post that said that Pro HU without CIC was only capable of 4x15W...
If someone has an actual volt measurement (either with a multimeter while playing 50Hz full scale sine wave or with an oscilloscope) that would be very nice to know.


2. Does anybody know if my car likely uses MOST (for USB, Sirius or BT phone interface)?
If this is the case, will I be able to use an aftermarket connector like Metra or Scosche? I remember reading that there was no aftermarket connector that supported MOST.
I know it's easy to take the HU and check, I'll try do that soon...


3. I suspect my battery will need to be replaced soon (when I leave the radio on with engine off for like 10 min I get a chime with battery icon). It is the original battery from 2010 and the car has only 20k miles on it. Still it starts perfectly everyday and no particular problem.
--> will this make coding unsafe? Shall I replace the battery before coding?*

* I am aware that replacing the battery will require to reset the adaptive charging system. Any advice on that (what tool to use) would be greatly appreciated.


4. Because of the additional options like bluetooth, should I still be able to code my HU to HiFi?
Is there any additional module I will need to reset?
Honestly the complete procedure is still vague to me.


5. For coding the HU, I've read many different things. Can you please clarify (only if you have a working practical experience please):
- do I need a powerful charger or can I start up the engine to maintain a safe battery voltage?
- is it easier/safer to add 676 (HiFi) or SZMFA (Alpine retrofit) to the VO?


Thank you for any help you can provide !!!
Fox

=============================

VIN decoder result below for my car:

Type code UC9C
Type 135I (USA)
Dev. series E82 ()
Line 1
Body type COUPE
Steering LL
Door count 2
Engine N55
Cubical capacity 3.00
Power 225
Transmision HECK
Gearbox MECH
Colour BLACK SAPPHIRE METALLIC (475)
Upholstery LEDER BOSTON 2/D1 KORALLROT (LWD1)
Prod. date 2010-07-15

Order options
No. Description
1CA SELECTION COP RELEVANT VEHICLES
2MR M ALLOY WHEELS DOUBLESP. 261 M/MB
2VB TYRE PRESSURE INDICATOR
249 MULTI-FUNCTION FOR STEERING WHEEL
319 INTEGRATED UNIVERSAL REMOTE CONTROL
337 M SPORT PACKAGE
4AS FINE-WOOD TRIM OPLAR GRAIN GREY
4NA INTERIOR MIRROR WITH DIG. COMPASS
403 GLAS ROOF, ELECTRIC
430 INT/EXT RR VW MIRROR W AUT ANTI-DAZZLE
431 INTERIOR RR VW MIRROR W AUT ANTI-D
459 SEAT ADJUSTM., ELECTR. W. MEMORY
481 SPORT SEATS F DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER
488 LUMBAR SUPPORT DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER
494 SEAT HEATING F DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER
502 HEADLIGHT WASHER SYSTEM
521 RAIN SENSOR
522 XENON LIGHT
524 ADAPTIVE HEADLIGHTS
534 AUTOMATIC AIR CONDITIONING
540 CRUISE CONTROL
563 LIGHTS PACKAGE
570 STRONGER ELECTRICITY SUPPLY
6FL USB-/AUDIO INTERFACE
639 COMPLETE PREP. CELLULAR PHONE USA/CDN
655 SATELLITE RADIO
697 AREA-CODE 1
704 M SPORT SUSPENSION
710 M LEATHER STEERING WHEEL
760 INDIVIDUAL HIGH-GLOSS SATIN CHROME
775 INDIVIDUAL ROOF-LINING ANTHRACITE
8SC COUNTRY SPEC. RELEASE OF TELESERVICE
8SP COP CONTROL
840 HIGH SPEED SYNCHRONISATION
925 SHIPPING PROTECTION PACKAGE

Series options
No. Description
321 EXTERIOR PARTS IN BODY COLOR
473 ARMREST, FRONT
645 RADIO CONTROL US
663 RADIO BMW PROFESSIONAL
823 HOT CLIMATE VERSION
845 ACOUSTIC BELT WARNING
850 ADD FUEL TANK FILLING FOR EXPORT
853 LANGUAGE VERSION ENGLISH
876 RADIO FREQUENCY 315 MHZ

Last edited by Foxadn; 07-07-2016 at 03:09 AM..
Appreciate 0
      07-07-2016, 01:46 AM   #2
reisf
Lieutenant
reisf's Avatar
Australia
89
Rep
524
Posts

Drives: LBB M2
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (0)

Regardless of what you do, you MUST recode your headunit to HiFi. This will remove the factory EQ that drastically overcompensates for the unfortunate misery that is the factory speakers. This is done by adding $676 to the cars VO and recoding your RAD2 module.

Also your headunit is not a CCC (this is the first gen idrive).

BTW, personally i think you should have bought a 6 channel amp:
- 2 ch for front speakers
- 2 ch for front subs
- 2 ch for rears

Also, buy a technic PnP Harness.

To Answer your other questions:

Your car uses MOST for the sirius and bluetooth functions. Adding an amp will not affect this. You will not need to touch the MOST bus at all.

Yes buy a new battery, go for a genuine replacement.

Additional options have no bearing on recoding your head unit. Plenty of information on this but as i said above: add $676 to your vehicle order in NCSExpert, then use job SG_CODIEREN on RAD2 Module.

Code your car after you change your battery, you do not need a charger but it is recommended. I would not recommend doing any coding on your car until you change your battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxadn View Post
Hi all,

I've been doing extensive research over the last month before jumping into my next project: upgrading my sound system! However I still have some unanswered questions, and I hope there is someone out there who can shed some light for me

Car info:
2011 135i
Prod. date: 07/10
Engine: N55
Region: US

Head unit: Professional / CCC (663)
Speakers: Base (Stereo)

Other possibly relevant equipment:
- USB/Audio interface (6FL)
- Complete prep. cellular phone USA/CDN (639) - I have an use hands-free BT with the radio
- Satellite radio (655)


What I am planning on doing:
- add tweeters in the A-pillar (currently plastic covers with no griles)
- replace midrange speakers with better quality (TBD)
- replace underseat woofers with Morel MW266 (requires custom spacer/adapter)
- add JL Audio XD700/5 to power the tweeters, midranges and woofers (paralleled)
- add a DSP between the head unit and the amplifier (miniDSP balanced)
- use Metra or Scosche connectors to make a harness that won't require cutting any wires from the car harness

What I am not sure of yet:
- either code my head unit to Hifi and add a small 2ch amp for the rear (nice-to-have down the road)
OR
- leave the rear speakers powered by the main unit and defeat the Base EQ in the DSP


Prep work so far:
- installed the BMW programming tools suite on my mac running WinXP (parallels)
- ordered a K+D-CAN cable from eBay (link)
- ordered the Morel woofers
- ordered amp install kit
- bought the JL amp (used)


Some questions:

1. Has anybody measured the rms output level of the Pro head unit at max volume?
bmw oem audio systems tis.pdf says 4x25W / 2 Ohm (4 Ohm mids // 4 Ohm woofers)
--> that would mean that the voltage out is sqrt(25*2) = 7.1Vrms
--> therefore each 4 Ohm speaker would receive: ((7.1)^2)/4 = 12.5W

I read another post that said that Pro HU without CIC was only capable of 4x15W...
If someone has an actual volt measurement (either with a multimeter while playing 50Hz full scale sine wave or with an oscilloscope) that would be very nice to know.


2. Does anybody know if my car likely uses MOST (for USB, Sirius or BT phone interface)?
If this is the case, will I be able to use an aftermarket connector like Metra or Scosche? I remember reading that there was no aftermarket connector that supported MOST.
I know it's easy to take the HU and check, I'll try do that soon...


3. I suspect my battery will need to be replaced soon (when I leave the radio on with engine off for like 10 min I get a chime with battery icon). It is the original battery from 2010 and the car has only 20k miles on it. Still it starts perfectly everyday and no particular problem.
--> will this make coding unsafe? Shall I replace the battery before coding?*

* I am aware that replacing the battery will require to reset the adaptive charging system. Any advice on that (what tool to use) would be greatly appreciated.


4. Because of the additional options like bluetooth, should I still be able to code my HU to HiFi?
Is there any additional module I will need to reset?
Honestly the complete procedure is still vague to me.


5. For coding the HU, I've read many different things. Can you please clarify (only if you have a working practical experience please):
- do I need a powerful charger or can I start up the engine to maintain a safe battery voltage?
- is it easier/safer to add 676 (HiFi) or SZMFA (Alpine retrofit) to the VO?


Thank you for any help you can provide !!!
Fox

=============================

VIN decoder result below for my car:

Type code UC9C
Type 135I (USA)
Dev. series E82 ()
Line 1
Body type COUPE
Steering LL
Door count 2
Engine N55
Cubical capacity 3.00
Power 225
Transmision HECK
Gearbox MECH
Colour BLACK SAPPHIRE METALLIC (475)
Upholstery LEDER BOSTON 2/D1 KORALLROT (LWD1)
Prod. date 2010-07-15

Order options
No. Description
1CA SELECTION COP RELEVANT VEHICLES
2MR M ALLOY WHEELS DOUBLESP. 261 M/MB
2VB TYRE PRESSURE INDICATOR
249 MULTI-FUNCTION FOR STEERING WHEEL
319 INTEGRATED UNIVERSAL REMOTE CONTROL
337 M SPORT PACKAGE
4AS FINE-WOOD TRIM OPLAR GRAIN GREY
4NA INTERIOR MIRROR WITH DIG. COMPASS
403 GLAS ROOF, ELECTRIC
430 INT/EXT RR VW MIRROR W AUT ANTI-DAZZLE
431 INTERIOR RR VW MIRROR W AUT ANTI-D
459 SEAT ADJUSTM., ELECTR. W. MEMORY
481 SPORT SEATS F DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER
488 LUMBAR SUPPORT DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER
494 SEAT HEATING F DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER
502 HEADLIGHT WASHER SYSTEM
521 RAIN SENSOR
522 XENON LIGHT
524 ADAPTIVE HEADLIGHTS
534 AUTOMATIC AIR CONDITIONING
540 CRUISE CONTROL
563 LIGHTS PACKAGE
570 STRONGER ELECTRICITY SUPPLY
6FL USB-/AUDIO INTERFACE
639 COMPLETE PREP. CELLULAR PHONE USA/CDN
655 SATELLITE RADIO
697 AREA-CODE 1
704 M SPORT SUSPENSION
710 M LEATHER STEERING WHEEL
760 INDIVIDUAL HIGH-GLOSS SATIN CHROME
775 INDIVIDUAL ROOF-LINING ANTHRACITE
8SC COUNTRY SPEC. RELEASE OF TELESERVICE
8SP COP CONTROL
840 HIGH SPEED SYNCHRONISATION
925 SHIPPING PROTECTION PACKAGE

Series options
No. Description
321 EXTERIOR PARTS IN BODY COLOR
473 ARMREST, FRONT
645 RADIO CONTROL US
663 RADIO BMW PROFESSIONAL
823 HOT CLIMATE VERSION
845 ACOUSTIC BELT WARNING
850 ADD FUEL TANK FILLING FOR EXPORT
853 LANGUAGE VERSION ENGLISH
876 RADIO FREQUENCY 315 MHZ
Appreciate 0
      07-07-2016, 03:18 AM   #3
Foxadn
Private
11
Rep
67
Posts

Drives: BMW 135i 2011
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: San Jose, CA

iTrader: (1)

Hi Reisf,

Thanks a lot for all the answers you gave! Really appreciate.

I know I should have gone for the 6ch amp... but I couldn't resist this one on CL for much less...

Ok for the CCC --> I edited my post to prevent future confusions.

Ok for the battery and coding.

I guess I'll do the HW install first little by little, then when everything is done (and should sound so-so) I will get to the battery, recode and finally fine tune all that.

I'm trying hard to stay on a budget (my family before my car) so I only put money into the parts that matter the most (and what I can't do myself). I know Technic's harness is great but I think I can do something for much less. It makes the project fun too!

Will keep you guys posted when I make some progress.
Appreciate 0
      07-08-2016, 02:46 AM   #4
reisf
Lieutenant
reisf's Avatar
Australia
89
Rep
524
Posts

Drives: LBB M2
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Sydney, Australia

iTrader: (0)

If your comfortable making your own harness then go for it! Just wasn't sure how familiar you are with this sort of thing.
Just with your idea of going with the hardware first, dont install your amp/dsp and use it without doing the coding. There is a huge amount of EQ added on the headunit with the base stereo. When you take that signal and put it through an amp and dsp it just sounds awful.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
audio, coding, most fiber optic, sound, speaker

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:55 PM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST