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04-08-2023, 10:30 PM | #1 |
Private First Class
50
Rep 128
Posts |
Oil Leak! where is it coming from??
I thought it's the OFHG, I replaced that and I dried the area. Now I look at it again there's small pool of oil again in the same spot.
In the picture that's behind the oil filter, oil sitting on the engine and goes down. I also replaced my spark plugs and coils. I didn't see oil on plugs or around VCG. And if VCG leaking usually it would be from the passenger side; not the side where I have the oil leak. Any thoughts or anyone with similar experience? Thanks in advance |
04-10-2023, 06:38 AM | #3 |
Wolfsburg to Munich
75
Rep 294
Posts |
I would say the oil cooler housing gasket and line o rings but not sure if the 128 has one. I did mine on my 135 when I did the OFHG. Is it also possible that the filter cap is cracked?
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04-10-2023, 10:35 AM | #4 |
Lieutenant
341
Rep 539
Posts |
if this just started after an oil change, I would verify that the new rubberband oil filter cap gasket didn't get kinked when you tightened up the cap
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04-10-2023, 03:25 PM | #5 |
Private First Class
50
Rep 128
Posts |
No it was before the oil change. Then did the ofhg, changed oil, cleaned, and dried same spot. A week later it look like this. I found someone who had same situation, but he had a head bolt missing and this is where the leak came from. Mine still in place.
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04-19-2023, 09:44 PM | #7 |
Private First Class
50
Rep 128
Posts |
I haven't and I just did. It is lose. I hope the head isn't broken. I don't want to remove bolt for manifold. Just waiting on flex head ratcheting wrench to get it tight.
Any thoughts easiest way to get it tight? since there's no room for a socket or regular wrench to tighten it |
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04-20-2023, 02:22 PM | #8 |
Major
789
Rep 1,005
Posts |
I don't know your situation or history of the car, but if it were me, I would just bite the bullet and remove the manifold. While you've got the manifold off, you might consider replacing the starter and crankshaft position sensor as preventative measures since they are failure-prone.
There's no way to be very accurate with torque when you're coming at it with one or two U-joints on your ratchet. The only way to be sure is to remove the manifold and come at the bolt straight-on. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I'm obsessed with factory torque specs on the N52. It's not very forgiving of errors.
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