BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      05-27-2021, 11:30 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoIsJaime1M View Post
Build looks wicked, can't wait to see more.
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Originally Posted by BMWWorld View Post
Wow great build👌🏽
I'm eager to see the finished product🔥

Any info on the chasis mounted brackets for the wing? Would it fit a CSL style trunk?
Thanks! The uprights are from HARD Motorsport, the E90 kit. Not sure on fitment for the CSL lid.
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2009 Widebody 135i ///Build Thread
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      05-28-2021, 10:52 PM   #46
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Dieselboy , reach out to Brant at Fikse Wheels. He can make you anything you want, and it'll be light and strong. He'll respond right away too. brant@fikse.com

Tell him Alex sent you.
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      06-04-2021, 09:59 AM   #47
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So, 5 weeks and still no Turbos, but supposedly Pure is building the N54 turbos this week. Anyway, in preparation for this I started the work to pull the stockers. I have had no issues with my water pump, but I'll most likely replace the thermostat, pump, and some of the hoses while I have easy access. Car is at 46k.


The parts I do have are the second oil cooler, front Ohlins coilovers and relocation inlets and outlets.

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      06-04-2021, 03:36 PM   #48
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Turbs ready to come out. Time for a beer(s).

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      06-09-2021, 04:39 PM   #49
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Some of the boring stuff arrived, still no turbos..

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      06-09-2021, 05:10 PM   #50
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Looks like a fun build.

Friendly tip: re-think those spring rates/shocks. For the amount of tire and aero you're planning, the car will be massively under-sprung.
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      06-09-2021, 08:20 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
Looks like a fun build.

Friendly tip: re-think those spring rates/shocks. For the amount of tire and aero you're planning, the car will be massively under-sprung.
Curious as to why you think so and what you would recommend?

I spoke with Barry from 3DM about my setup and the 80/140 is what he recommended for track use.

Since I am changing so much at once, and since theres not another build quite like this it's hard to know exactly what to expect.
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      06-10-2021, 04:10 PM   #52
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The dampers are nice units, however, if I was doing my build over again (I've since demodded my track 1er and made it a fun daily), knowing what I know now, with my old setup (255/265 track tire, max effort stock body fitment), my car was way too soft with 400 lb/in fronts and a 700 lb/in rear spring. Tire wear sucked and the car handled lazily.

Even with my stock body fitment, I would start at something like 500 lb/in fronts and a minimum 800 lb/in rear spring, and probably settle on something like a 900-1000# rear spring, given the awful motion ratio that the E82 is working with. If those shocks can keep up with spring rates in that area, great!

I suspect with that big wing, you'll end up migrating towards a very stiff rear spring in the end.

For perspective: my new track chassis has the same basic suspension setup, similar tire sizing, less weight, with a slightly better rear end MR and I've landed at 600/1000, no aero, and it's fantastic. A lot of factors (setup, tracks, driver preference) go into the numbers I'm tossing around, so consider it a rough starting point, and information I wish I had all those years ago.

Be mindful reading the forums here that most people parrot information blindly, and the actual fast drivers have long since learned from the collective thoughts and posts from years ago. I listened to this the "common consensus" on here many ears ago and my car sucked to drive until I started thinking more critically about setup and actually testing changes on track, and backing them up with lap times...
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Last edited by Ginger_Extract; 06-10-2021 at 04:16 PM..
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      06-10-2021, 09:47 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
The dampers are nice units, however, if I was doing my build over again (I've since demodded my track 1er and made it a fun daily), knowing what I know now, with my old setup (255/265 track tire, max effort stock body fitment), my car was way too soft with 400 lb/in fronts and a 700 lb/in rear spring. Tire wear sucked and the car handled lazily.

Even with my stock body fitment, I would start at something like 500 lb/in fronts and a minimum 800 lb/in rear spring, and probably settle on something like a 900-1000# rear spring, given the awful motion ratio that the E82 is working with. If those shocks can keep up with spring rates in that area, great!

I suspect with that big wing, you'll end up migrating towards a very stiff rear spring in the end.

For perspective: my new track chassis has the same basic suspension setup, similar tire sizing, less weight, with a slightly better rear end MR and I've landed at 600/1000, no aero, and it's fantastic. A lot of factors (setup, tracks, driver preference) go into the numbers I'm tossing around, so consider it a rough starting point, and information I wish I had all those years ago.

Be mindful reading the forums here that most people parrot information blindly, and the actual fast drivers have long since learned from the collective thoughts and posts from years ago. I listened to this the "common consensus" on here many ears ago and my car sucked to drive until I started thinking more critically about setup and actually testing changes on track, and backing them up with lap times...
For what it's worth, my car also got better and easier to drive when we went up in front spring rate from 400 to 500 and that's on relatively small 255 street tires. With aero and real tires, for sure I'd be going further yet.

-Mark
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      06-11-2021, 10:29 AM   #54
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Appreciate the advice. I'm sure I will have a lot of adjustments to make when the car is finished and I get some seat time. Based on your experience, it sounds like my springs (450/800) will be under sprung. The car will still see some street use so it may not be too bad of a starting point.
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      06-15-2021, 08:31 PM   #55
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Turbos are out. My Pures should arrive tomorrow. All in all I'd say it took about 9 hours.

I noticed far more carbon buildup on the rear turbo than the front. I also noticed some oil in the inlet. I dont run a catch can, but I probably should pick one up and replace the PCV valve.

My other dilemma is, I bought MMP silicone relocation inlets and outlets, probably 4 years ago and they've been sitting, waiting until I replaced the turbos. Based on what I've read, the silicone outlets commonly fail, so I am debating using the silicone replacement inlets with stock outlet, or get an upgraded aluminum outlet. Not sure an upgraded outlet would do much except potentially cause reliability issues.

Thoughts?



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      06-16-2021, 05:14 PM   #56
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Turbos arrived. They forgot to send the install kit though..

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      07-09-2021, 04:52 PM   #57
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Haven't had much time to wrench lately. Just got the Pures on loosely. Going to ditch the silicone outlet pipe and stick with the stocker. I've read nothing but problems with aftermarket outlets. I will be putting the relocation inlets on.

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      07-11-2021, 03:30 PM   #58
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So after loosely fitting the turbos/inlets, I've determined that heat will definitely be an issue here. I am going to get a pair of turbo blankets and I may also add the RB turbo manifold heatshield with heat tape.

For the heat blankets there are options from Forge, PTP, Mishimoto, and Heatshield products. They're all rated for 1800F continuous, and all are made from similar materials. I'll most likely go with Forge since it's the least costly, and looks to be on par with the others.

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I could then wrap the metal shield in Heat Tape and position the rear turbo inlet over this, and it should keep IAT cool. I am hopeful that all of this insulation with shorter and larger diameter passenger side inlets that the IAT will be cooler than what can be achieved with any driver side inlets.

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      07-14-2021, 12:22 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
The dampers are nice units, however, if I was doing my build over again (I've since demodded my track 1er and made it a fun daily), knowing what I know now, with my old setup (255/265 track tire, max effort stock body fitment), my car was way too soft with 400 lb/in fronts and a 700 lb/in rear spring. Tire wear sucked and the car handled lazily.

Even with my stock body fitment, I would start at something like 500 lb/in fronts and a minimum 800 lb/in rear spring, and probably settle on something like a 900-1000# rear spring, given the awful motion ratio that the E82 is working with. If those shocks can keep up with spring rates in that area, great!

I suspect with that big wing, you'll end up migrating towards a very stiff rear spring in the end.

For perspective: my new track chassis has the same basic suspension setup, similar tire sizing, less weight, with a slightly better rear end MR and I've landed at 600/1000, no aero, and it's fantastic. A lot of factors (setup, tracks, driver preference) go into the numbers I'm tossing around, so consider it a rough starting point, and information I wish I had all those years ago.

Be mindful reading the forums here that most people parrot information blindly, and the actual fast drivers have long since learned from the collective thoughts and posts from years ago. I listened to this the "common consensus" on here many ears ago and my car sucked to drive until I started thinking more critically about setup and actually testing changes on track, and backing them up with lap times...
+1 just follow Berns setup haha, I agree though... 500/900 is a pretty good starting point and then adapt based on sways and driving style.

I real liked the 550/850 setup with stock rear sway and Dinan front. If I ever get back on track again (newborn+new job+moving has really killed my track time) I'll definitely invest in some adjustable sway bars... Wish I picked some up sooner to dial in the car at a test and tune day.

Build looks awesome! Excited to see the finished product.
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      07-15-2021, 07:58 PM   #60
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The turbo manifold blankets arrived. Not impressed with the stitching on these, but once they're in they should be fine. I also wrapped the outlets with heat reflection tape. I may wrap the inlets as well, but I'm not sure how well it will hold up on the silicone. Getting the rear inlet on is going to be a nightmare...

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      07-23-2021, 05:58 PM   #61
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I pulled the stock oil lines from the stock oil cooler. There was a small protrusion on the fitting that didn't allow my adapter to sit flush so I took an end mill to it. Now i will be running AN lines from the engine to the stock cooler, over to the Setrab cooler and back to the engine.

I also bought a welder so I'll be custom fabricating a mounting bracket for the new oil cooler.

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