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[joe86]

I have vorshlag camber plates (just installed, set to min caster), m3 control arms, rogue engineering tension strut bushings, bisltein sport shocks and swift spec r springs and rolled fenders with trimmed f bumper tab. I tried 255/35r18 pss's on stock 135 rear wheels installed on the front with 12mm spacer (tried 10mm but to close to strut). I tried this when I had dinan camber plates and got slight rubbing on the front bumper edge and fender(not the tab). So I figured with vorshlag camber plates maxed out it should be ok, but surprisingly it's rubbing the bumper so much on bumps it is un-driveable but looks like its clearing the fender. I had zero toe with 2.2 maxed camber when I had the dinan plates. I know more camber equals more toe out which may be why its rubbing over bumps in straight line. But If I did adjust the toe back to zero I would think that during a low speed slight turn the inner wheel would toe out and rub if hitting a bump. I haven't seen any signs of body work/damage and there is no accidents on record. Has any body else ran across this problem? Did bmw update the bumper after a certain production date?

[lowbudgethero]

10mm shouldn't rub on the strut it should help a lot, but the real problem is ride height, you really should be close to stock ride height for 255s to work unless you have a crazy stiff suspension

[Ginger_Extract]

Nope, I have the same issue. With 17x9 and 255's, I clear the fender just fine, but I'm hitting the bumper during sharp bumps. The bumper can be heated and reformed a touch, but it's still a tricky fitment. Oddly, it's only the driver's side for me.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract

Nope, I have the same issue. With 17x9 and 255's, I clear the fender just fine, but I'm hitting the bumper during sharp bumps. The bumper can be heated and reformed a touch, but it's still a tricky fitment. Oddly, it's only the driver's side for me.

I have the same issue, its also only on the drivers side. Guess were just fat

[Ginger_Extract]

Originally Posted by BrokenVert

I have the same issue, its also only on the drivers side. Guess were just fat

My car is corner balanced for my fat ass. What's your excuse?

[MightyMouseTech]

Maybe increase caster?

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract

My car is corner balanced for my fat ass. What's your excuse?

Late night CS sessions and lots of pita chips

[joe86]

Thank you for all your replys. I think ill get some re71rs in 235/40s and if they hit the oil cooler grill ill figure something out. I'm only going to use them on weekends that i auto x anyways.

[lowbudgethero]

Try going back to 10mm, I had 12mm originally and would still rub on sharp compressing bumps on the highway

I'm running nearly the same setup as you, but the only difference we have is that I'm on stock shocks and springs with no camber plates, 10mm spacer, and i'm running a fatter 255 dunlop tire. I don't rub at all.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by joe86

Thank you for all your replys. I think ill get some re71rs in 235/40s and if they hit the oil cooler grill ill figure something out. I'm only going to use them on weekends that i auto x anyways.

I hit the cooler grille even with 235s, just shaved it down and beyond that I don't care, only happens on bumps at nearly full lock.

[John_01]

My front 245/40/17 R888 used to rub the front bumper tab at full compression. Its mounted on a 17x8.5 ET38 wheel with M3 front arms and -3.0 degree camber. As the shoulders of the tires have worn slightly the issue seems to have resolved itself. Maybe its possible to trim/grind the front bumper tab to gain some clearance. However a 18" tire setup will need more space than my 17s. I think that more negative camber will help too.

[ShortShift]

ive been using stock style 264 wheels for almost 2 years as a square setup. specs are 18x8.5 ET52 - 255/35R18 RS3's
front has 10mm spacer et42
rear has 15mm spacer et37 (rolled fenders)

recently installed some KW V3s and with swift spring conversation and switched front and rear spacers so new offsets are


front Et37
rear et42


i do get minor rub when going fast over dips or bumps but thats about it.

[lowside67]

How much camber have you got with the M3 arms and the Vorshlag plates?

Most people don't think about it but the M3 arms actually make tire clearance worse than if you had the same camber setting but without the arms. Not to say 3 degrees with arms is worse than 2.5 degrees without arms, but 3 degrees with arms is definitely worse than 3 degrees without arms for fitment.

Mark

[joe86]

Originally Posted by lowbudgethero

Try going back to 10mm, I had 12mm originally and would still rub on sharp compressing bumps on the highway

I'm running nearly the same setup as you, but the only difference we have is that I'm on stock shocks and springs with no camber plates, 10mm spacer, and i'm running a fatter 255 dunlop tire. I don't rub at all.

With the 10mm spacer I used there is 1-2mm of clearance to my strut. I like a little extra wiggle room just in case something happens like a bubble in the sidewall.

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Maybe increase caster?

If I adjust caster via the plates it would decrease my max camber. By how much I don't know. I have seen offset bushings that let you adjust caster +/-0.5. I wonder if getting 255's to fit by reducing caster via bushing or increasing caster via plate would bring my wheel far enough back to clear. but would the neg. side effects of less caster via bushings or less camber via plates out way the positive of 255's during auto-x?

Originally Posted by lowside67

How much camber have you got with the M3 arms and the Vorshlag plates?

Most people don't think about it but the M3 arms actually make tire clearance worse than if you had the same camber setting but without the arms. Not to say 3 degrees with arms is worse than 2.5 degrees without arms, but 3 degrees with arms is definitely worse than 3 degrees without arms for fitment.

Mark

I haven't had it aligned yet but I plan on having a max camber with some toe out auto-x setting and a street setting (with my dinan plates I had it at max camber and zero toe). So lets say that getting rid of the m3 arms gives me enough room to run 255's without damaging my bumper. Would the positives of having 255's instead of 235's out weigh the negatives of the lost camber during auto-x?

[lowside67]

For autocross you are going to want the 255s as long as you can make them fit. The only situation where you should consider removing the arms is if you get to a point where your autocross setup is not maxing the plates against the strut tower. If this is the case (ie you are choosing to run less than the max camber that you can get) then you should kill the arms and max the plates, this will move the top of the tire inboard and effectively help you rub less.

Mark

[3002 tii]

I think caster is the issue. The wheel is pushed further up than before which is causing contact in that particular area. Vorshlag plates have max caster as the default setting. Bring it in one setting and you'll probably gain even more negative camber.

[dmytro98]

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if you found a solution to this issue as I'm having rubbing in the same exact spot you're talking about with coilovers, m3 arms and dinan camber plates for about 2.5 degrees of camber.

[machine4321]

I’ll be embarking on this soon. My 255 are on and no rubbing except under really big dip/bump When one side of the car hits it.

18x8.5 et 45 stock msport (b14 in mail) m3 arms. I’m hoping to stay close to stock ride height with the b14 and turner fixed plates.

[sibanez]

Originally Posted by dmytro98

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if you found a solution to this issue as I'm having rubbing in the same exact spot you're talking about with coilovers, m3 arms and dinan camber plates for about 2.5 degrees of camber.

What kind of coilovers?

I was running Bilstein B12s and had no rubbing with 17x8 ET50 and 245/40R17 RE71Rs and -2.7 of camber. Camber was through Dinam plates and M3 arms.

Now that I'm running Redshift BC Coilovers, I've lost about 3-4mm of clearance. The collar for the shock adjuster is wider than the Bilstein. With a 5MM spacer, it's fine.

The biggest thing is the M3 arms - they reduce clearance by 4-5mm. If you have camber plates and they are maxed out, there are other ways to get more camber without using the M3 arms.

[tsk94]

I'll also chime in like 3002 tii and MightyMouseTech, sounds like a caster problem. You should increase it, even if you lose max camber adjustment. More caster will increase your dynamic camber under load, so losing static camber isn't a huge deal. I've run 255's on a 128 and a 135 and never had issues with it contacting the front bumper.