What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Rallysmurf]

M3 lower arms, vert springs, and e46 m3 shocks.

Getting the strength, travel, and lift I have been wanting.

It's starting to feel really good on gravel.

Selling my Msport rear shocks $100

[Ric in RVA]

Installed summer wheels and tires.

A complete scrub of all the hidden areas that hold pollen and crap from the winter/ spring and a quick exterior wash. Vac'd out all the underhood areas that hold pin needles and crap.

This car needs a serious paint correction. Maybe next weekend.

[MGalo]

I've only had my E88 135i for 79 days, but was totally disgusted with the brake dust produced by the pads, so I replaced them yesterday, 5-15. Now to flush/bleed the fluid...

And I too enjoyed the "relative" post

[Ric in RVA]

Swapped 135i rockers over to my 128i sport. Already same color. Easy job. Gross underneath there. I'd say if you've never pull them and cleaned up the mess you might. Still even with the dirt and grime no rust at all.

It is a 10 - 15 min job to swap one rockers and takes a t30 and a non marring plastic pry tool and that is it.

First go look at the bottom and note where undertrays and rockers overlap and what is on top of or under what.


Remove door sill. (Pry tool)
Remove pins under door sill. (Pry tool again)
Remove T30 fasters under car.

Unlatch clip along top edge in front of rear wheel.
Unlatch clips along top edge behind front wheel.

Clean.... The front end of the rocker is where the exit is for all the stuff not caught by the under hood screens at the rear corners of the engine compartment. Lots of grossness there.

Pull the white pins under the door sill and reinstall them in the door sill.

Reinstallation is reverse of removal.

[low135]

These came in suuuper quick from Latvia

Such a big difference

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by low135

These came in suuuper quick from Latvia

Such a big difference

Yes they are. Made me wonder why I waited so long when I finally ordered them.

[BikeNHV]

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

Swapped 135i rockers over to my 128i sport. Already same color. Easy job. Gross underneath there. I'd say if you've never pull them and cleaned up the mess you might. Still even with the dirt and grime no rust at all.

It is a 10 - 15 min job to swap one rockers and takes a t30 and a non marring plastic pry tool and that is it.

First go look at the bottom and note where undertrays and rockers overlap and what is on top of or under what.


Remove door sill. (Pry tool)
Remove pins under door sill. (Pry tool again)
Remove T30 fasters under car.

Unlatch clip along top edge in front of rear wheel.
Unlatch clips along top edge behind front wheel.

Clean.... The front end of the rocker is where the exit is for all the stuff not caught by the under hood screens at the rear corners of the engine compartment. Lots of grossness there.

Pull the white pins under the door sill and reinstall them in the door sill.

Reinstallation is reverse of removal.

I had to remove one of the rocker covers to replace a front fender (had a slight bump/scuff due to a moron sideswiping while street parked, was most cost effective to swap on a fender from a junker with factory space gray paint).

Despite 12 years and 125k in the northeast, not a speck of rust. Just lots of crud.

I do think these cars will hold up nicely long-term.

[Ric in RVA]

Originally Posted by low135

These came in suuuper quick from Latvia

Such a big difference

'

I need those. got links for ordering?

[tjswarbrick]

Originally Posted by low135

These came in suuuper quick from Latvia

Such a big difference

Congrats on the blacklines!
Did you figure out a way to overlay or tint them?

[low135]

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Congrats on the blacklines!
Did you figure out a way to overlay or tint them?

Originally Posted by Ric in RVA

'

I need those. got links for ordering?

got them on eBay from here


https://www.ebay.com/itm/192319796366

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Congrats on the blacklines!
Did you figure out a way to overlay or tint them?

These are pretty dark as they are. I'd never tint any lights

[iminhell1]

Ordered new driveshaft for $425.

The more I dig the more I'm finding damaged parts in my driveline. First it was a noticyness in the diff. Then in what I thought was unrelated was my trans going out. After I got all that out of the car I found the support bearing to be torn. Upon pulling my diff all the CV bolts where just over finger tight, equally.

Turned out the diff had busted all but a few bolts internally. Just swapped in a JY diff to get by. I had done some very good speed while it was broken and me not knowing. Never felt weird, vibration or anything.

So in my take no chances because I'm going after even more speed, the only driveline I'm not touching is the CV's. Everything else is going to be new/refreshed. And at the cost I found a driveshaft for, I couldn't pass it up.

[1and1]

Wow, it always amazes me how age related wear can occur....

Any details on that drive shaft? Or just a lucky score on a good used part?

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Ordered new driveshaft for $425.

The more I dig the more I'm finding damaged parts in my driveline. First it was a noticyness in the diff. Then in what I thought was unrelated was my trans going out. After I got all that out of the car I found the support bearing to be torn. Upon pulling my diff all the CV bolts where just over finger tight, equally.

Turned out the diff had busted all but a few bolts internally. Just swapped in a JY diff to get by. I had done some very good speed while it was broken and me not knowing. Never felt weird, vibration or anything.

So in my take no chances because I'm going after even more speed, the only driveline I'm not touching is the CV's. Everything else is going to be new/refreshed. And at the cost I found a driveshaft for, I couldn't pass it up.

Originally Posted by 1and1

Wow, it always amazes me how age related wear can occur....

Any details on that drive shaft? Or just a lucky score on a good used part?

Could be age, could be the Ice Rallying.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Turned out the diff had busted all but a few bolts internally.

I'm guessing M-Factory?

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

I'm guessing M-Factory?

yup.

The warranty was good. They don't cover incurred damages though; which was the teeth on the ring gear. But a new JY diff is only $50, so I could really care less about that.

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by 1and1

Wow, it always amazes me how age related wear can occur....

Any details on that drive shaft? Or just a lucky score on a good used part?

Used?

Brand new, far as I'm told. But I'll know for sure when it's in my hands. About 2 weeks out they said.

I seen a used one going for about $200'ish.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

yup.

The warranty was good. They don't cover incurred damages though; which was the teeth on the ring gear. But a new JY diff is only $50, so I could really care less about that.

Cool! Do they cover removal and re-installation of the diff? Shipping?

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

Cool! Do they cover removal and re-installation of the diff? Shipping?

No. Just what you bought from them. Same for same.
In my case I bought a bare diff.

[white.nasty135i]

Installed my blackline tail lights

[1and1]

Gonna be a happy weekend for the front brakes
Rear rotors are back ordered for now, so they will be in a few weeks...


.

[low135]

Originally Posted by 1and1

Gonna be a happy weekend for the front brakes
Rear rotors are back ordered for now, so they will be in a few weeks...


.

I've heard terrible reviews of the ECS rotors....

[low135]

Granted everything ECS makes is awful as well lol it's all stuff commissioned to the lowest bidder in china