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03-19-2021, 07:06 PM | #23 |
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03-19-2021, 07:25 PM | #24 | ||
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I just looked at the Helix overdrive...looks interesting. Quote:
Asbjorn and bbnks2 , you guys have thought a lot more about the baffle issue than I ...what is your assessment of this product? I am seriously thinking of getting it instead of the VAC. Last edited by AndyW; 03-19-2021 at 09:16 PM.. Reason: Added info |
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03-22-2021, 06:53 PM | #25 | |
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03-22-2021, 07:17 PM | #26 |
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Me too... because it is upside down...lol. the install instructions are linked on that page and help a bit. It looks to me like it restricts the oil from moving easily fully aft(reduces effective sump size) and then uses a series of staged baffle "windows" to limit it's flow forward and help it return aft. It probably doesn't seal tightly to the oil pan on the bottom since it is attached to the block, which means there is always some "trickle" flow possible in or out. I dunno. I am just waiting for them to email me back to confirm it fits a standard N55 vice just M135/M235i. If they confirm, I'm doing it. It'll only cost probably $100 more than a VAC plus the welding cost.
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03-23-2021, 10:48 AM | #28 |
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Bummer. You ask if they were releasing one for e series?
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03-23-2021, 10:13 PM | #29 |
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I did. No answer yet.
I researched the two pans via Realoem and some pics online.. I actually wondered if the F series pan would fit in an E series. Based on same oil pump, oil pickup and gasket, it would. Problem is that our oil pan has a spot where the P/S pump mount bolts to it. The F series does not(I assume electric P/S?). So no getting an F series pan in order to get the cool baffle. |
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03-24-2021, 08:48 AM | #30 |
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So, MMR said they may branch into the E8X market in the future. The guy even offered that they realized the dimensions weren't that different. I wish we had enough activity from 1er track folks on this forum to build up a group buy to entice them to make it...
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03-24-2021, 09:00 AM | #31 |
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Is that something that can be retrofitted? It owuld seem that if it's got the right overall shape (fits up to the block correctly, bolt holes line up, sump is at the right depth) that would be the important stuff. After that perhaps the internals could be modified?
Just throwing out the idea, have been around many engines in the past but not actually our own. |
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03-24-2021, 04:32 PM | #33 |
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VAC makes one...but it is pretty simple and has to be welded in. That is probably the way I will go as this one, sadly, doesn't fit.
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03-24-2021, 04:34 PM | #34 | |
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03-24-2021, 04:42 PM | #35 |
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Even if the pans are different, the MMR baffle looks like it attaches to the sump/pickup itself. As long as there is enough clearance it should** work?
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03-24-2021, 06:05 PM | #36 |
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I have no idea if there is enough clearance.
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03-25-2021, 11:02 AM | #37 |
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It looks like they use the same sump PN.. I have a sneaking suspicion that the MMR baffle will actually fit with no modifications, but no one has actually checked/verified.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=11417590736 |
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03-25-2021, 12:20 PM | #38 |
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Not that anyone has the extra time, but if you did, I wonder if mmr would be open providing a sample for test fit.
Many years ago I wanted to try the do88 oil cooler replacement that was for the e9x m3 dct, but mounted in the same location as the n55 engine oil cooler. They couldn’t confirm fitment and offered the item at a discounted price since I would be trying it, but I didn’t have the time not the patience so it went nowhere lol.
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03-25-2021, 08:33 PM | #39 | |
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03-26-2021, 11:48 AM | #40 |
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So, MMR graciously offered me a 10% discount if I wanted to get one to experiment with. I am conflicted. I really like it but I know it will take a little bit of work to fit and the VAC Motorsports one is direct fit (with welding).
I did some study of the two pans and the MMR baffle (ass much as is possible with pics on the internet) and made this graphic. Blue dotted lines are where I see the MMR fitting. This appears to mean nothing in the rear will be a fitment problem. Yellow circles are reference bolt holes. Red circles illustrate where the MMR baffle is shaped on the drivers side (US) for the F series pan that the E series pan is different. I am not sure this will matter as the MMR baffle will still be "snug" against that side, and honestly, that side isn't the side we worry about as much. Green line is the angle of the F series pan and my estimation of it overlaid on the E series pan. Green circles indicate where i think there is significant difference. The MMR baffle is contoured to fit the "steps" in the F series pan. The good news is that it appears the F series pan requires that part to be taller than the E series, so it would be a cutting/grinding solution, not a "build up" solution. Anyone else see any significant pitfalls? I don't know why I've become a bit obsessed with this thing, but I kinda am. I blame houtan for posting the link.
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03-26-2021, 12:19 PM | #41 | |
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03-26-2021, 07:55 PM | #42 |
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daym, i thought i was helping out at first lol.
enjoyed reading the comparison of the pans. Tough choice imo. the 10% off is nice, but it would be more reassuring if they would offer some sort of follow up support if it doesnt fit. Maybe a design tweak so you end up with something that works. looking forward to seeing what you go with either way.
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03-30-2021, 12:04 AM | #43 |
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So, I basically refreshed my intake path when I got the new FMIC. I replaced the air filter, MAF, and TMAP. I also changed spark plugs and boost solenoid. Coils were only several thousand miles old so I figured they were OK. I want everything to be as fresh as possible for the new turbo install.
Before complete reassembly I did several boost tests to 25# to check for leaks in the intake path ( I have the kit to do it properly). The only strange response during boost leak testing was a weird hold at around 19#, then a quick drop to 15# then the typically very slow drop. This pattern was repeatable. Since the car idled and ran at the track and when I moved it from the trailer to the garage with just a bit of smoke, I figured I would start the car and make sure it I installed the stuff I refreshed. Basically, check everything I replaced while at idle. When I started it, it only stumbled a bit then went through the idle cycle but had a LOT of white smoke. I though maybe the mix was off so turned it off, used MHD to "reset MAF" and restarted. Then, oil actually spurted out of the exhaust. So, the turbo is definitely done, done. Probably pushed a seal or something with the boost testing. So, I guess I'll have to winch it into the trailer to take it to the shop for the turbo replacement now. Is there a chance I may have hurt something else?
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03-30-2021, 11:03 AM | #44 |
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Holy crap!!!
Talk about shit the bed.
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