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      01-31-2022, 04:54 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ab28 View Post
I have a 3.64 diff. It's probably my favorite part of the car.

Coming from a number of M cars I find myself greatly preferring the 128i. The lightweight nature (mine's pretty stripped) cannot be underestimated. The car feels so much more fun to drive. I also hold agility in a higher regard than power. Other than the diff I have the stage 3 intake, tune, catless headers, Autosolutions shifter, F30 335i front brakes and more. It's a hoot.

Love seeing your thread progress.
Much appreciated! Did you go LSD at the same time you went to the 3.64?

I'm starting to think my clunking is the dual-mass flywheel. Loading & unloading the drivetrain is silent... it only "thunks" on clutch engagement and disengagement. I have 115k on the original clutch, so the idea that the DMF is sticking isn't exactly outrageous.
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      01-31-2022, 05:48 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexwerks View Post
Much appreciated! Did you go LSD at the same time you went to the 3.64?

I'm starting to think my clunking is the dual-mass flywheel. Loading & unloading the drivetrain is silent... it only "thunks" on clutch engagement and disengagement. I have 115k on the original clutch, so the idea that the DMF is sticking isn't exactly outrageous.
Can you describe your "thunks"? I have a metallic "clang" or popping sound when getting on and off the gas. No sounds when taking off slowly, but when I apply any sort of throttle that causes the car's weigh to shift I get the sound. Thinking its a failing U-joint, which I'm not looking forward to fixing.
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      01-31-2022, 06:07 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexwerks View Post
Much appreciated! Did you go LSD at the same time you went to the 3.64?

I'm starting to think my clunking is the dual-mass flywheel. Loading & unloading the drivetrain is silent... it only "thunks" on clutch engagement and disengagement. I have 115k on the original clutch, so the idea that the DMF is sticking isn't exactly outrageous.
Yea it's a 2 clutch LSD from DiffsOnline with the 3.64 gearing. My friend has a stock rear in his 6MT 128i and the gearing makes it feel like an entirely different car.
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      02-01-2022, 07:53 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Popov View Post
Can you describe your "thunks"? I have a metallic "clang" or popping sound when getting on and off the gas. No sounds when taking off slowly, but when I apply any sort of throttle that causes the car's weigh to shift I get the sound. Thinking its a failing U-joint, which I'm not looking forward to fixing.
It’s not metallic sounding in my situation… if I hadn’t replaced my bushings my first thought would be a bad bushing allowing too much movement. With the clutch engaged it’s silent on/off throttle, so it’s not a driveline lash issue I don’t think. Any time I engage or disengage the clutch, I get the thunking noise.
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      02-01-2022, 07:54 AM   #49
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Yea it's a 2 clutch LSD from DiffsOnline with the 3.64 gearing. My friend has a stock rear in his 6MT 128i and the gearing makes it feel like an entirely different car.
Nice! That’s certainly on my list… would you recommend DiffsOnline?
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      02-01-2022, 08:22 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by apexwerks View Post
Nice! That’s certainly on my list… would you recommend DiffsOnline?
Seems like it's one of the best go-to places.

Have nothing else to compare it to other than a stock rear end, but I cant imagine it being much better with another unit. A lot of guys run them and I really haven't heard of any complaints.

They are pricey however.
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      02-01-2022, 10:20 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexwerks View Post
Nice! That’s certainly on my list… would you recommend DiffsOnline?
Dan at DiffsOnline is hands down the best. In my old E36 M3 race car I had one of his 3.64 4-clutch diffs and it was unreal. It's not cheap but I always prefer to spend a little more to do it once and do it right. He's my go to if I even sink LSD money into my 128i.
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      02-01-2022, 12:56 PM   #52
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Thanks, hoki06 and Ab28 . Let's hope my wife hasn't seen this thread, but it sounds like an LSD is on the list.... I'm laid up for a few weeks with a foot injury, but I'll be putting in my Bilsteins next. After that I plan on driving it for a while, but I might throw the LSD on my birthday list...
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      02-01-2022, 01:17 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexwerks View Post
Thanks, hoki06 and Ab28 . Let's hope my wife hasn't seen this thread, but it sounds like an LSD is on the list.... I'm laid up for a few weeks with a foot injury, but I'll be putting in my Bilsteins next. After that I plan on driving it for a while, but I might throw the LSD on my birthday list...
I'm not exactly around the corner from you, but if you find yourself in NJ sometime and want to drive it before you commit, just send me a message.
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      02-01-2022, 01:53 PM   #54
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I'm not exactly around the corner from you, but if you find yourself in NJ sometime and want to drive it before you commit, just send me a message.
Thanks! I do occasionally travel for work, so if I end up your way I'll message you on here and take you up on the offer.
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      02-01-2022, 02:35 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoki06 View Post
Dan at DiffsOnline is hands down the best. In my old E36 M3 race car I had one of his 3.64 4-clutch diffs and it was unreal. It's not cheap but I always prefer to spend a little more to do it once and do it right. He's my go to if I even sink LSD money into my 128i.
I have a Diffsonline 3.64 3-clutch.

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      02-02-2022, 04:47 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by taslaughtery View Post
I haven't given up yet, I swear when I bought mine there weren't any on Amazon but now they have multiple for sale with free returns so I'm expecting another in a few days. I'll keep you posted on my progress. I did find an old post from someone selling plug-n-play 135i clusters with a core charge, I'll see if I can find it again.
taslaughtery saved my bacon! The R270 he linked in his thread worked perfectly. I did have to remove the cap in position C1 to successfully erase the mileage, but even without that mod the unit read and wrote the VIN.

Here's a picture, just for fun:




I still need to:
1. Use NCS to code the unit to my car
2. Modify the E90 case to fit in my E82
3. Tinker and adjust the needles

...but that stuff looks easy after virginizing the cluster.
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      02-04-2022, 08:45 AM   #57
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Nice! Glad you kept at it and got it done. I don’t know what eeprom chip yours had, mine was the 160D0wt and I was able to erase the vin as is. I had lower miles on my new cluster so I didn’t bother messing with mileage. I’ll post in my thread my experience with the oil temp gauge as I’ve actually put about 1k on it since I swapped them last week. Signing up for the first hpde of the season soon so I need to get to work on other stuff soon!!
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      02-04-2022, 01:11 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taslaughtery View Post
Nice! Glad you kept at it and got it done. I don’t know what eeprom chip yours had, mine was the 160D0wt and I was able to erase the vin as is. I had lower miles on my new cluster so I didn’t bother messing with mileage. I’ll post in my thread my experience with the oil temp gauge as I’ve actually put about 1k on it since I swapped them last week. Signing up for the first hpde of the season soon so I need to get to work on other stuff soon!!
I had a 080D0WQ chip. Your input was tremendously helpful... I couldn't tell if I was doing something wrong, or if I got a bum unit. The eBay seller was going out of his way to make me think that I was just using the tool wrong and that there was nothing wrong with the unit he sent. When I bought the unit you said worked, I had no issue at all and it worked right away.
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      02-13-2022, 04:24 PM   #59
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Finally got some time over the weekend to get shocks and struts on the 128i. I had previously swapped from the stock base model springs to Eibachs, and tried to save a few bucks by going with Sachs sport model struts. Well, even though the Eibachs are advertised as being compatible with the sport model struts, they are not. The car was bouncy and got upset really easily.

So, that effort to save money just cost me $400 and made me do a full shock/strut swap twice. At least now I'm getting pretty good at it. Got a full set of Bilstein B8s to replace the Sachs.

Old strut:



New strut:



New strut installed:



New shock installed:



The car still needs a paint correction and a good interior detail, and I'd like to install an LSD from Diffsonline. But with an alignment, I should be basically done with this project for now.
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      02-16-2022, 07:52 AM   #60
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Finally was able to drive my E82 yesterday for the first time in a few weeks. Took it to get aligned after the strut/shock install and before I could get it out of the driveway I threw a "TPMS Inactive" error. Tried multiple times to reset, all to no avail.

The guys at the tire shop checked my TPMS sensors and said all 4 were not reading, that they were likely all dead. That seems a little hard to swallow- the car has been parked for about 2.5 weeks and I had no issues with TPMS prior. I did code the new Kombi to my VO and plugged/unplugged the TPMS receivers in the front wheel wells while doing the struts. So it's possible that the sensors were on the way out and the system reset caused the car to pick up on it? Either way, I'm not replacing 4 TPMS sensors.... it's time to code the system out.

I didn't take any pictures, but the whole process took less than 20 minutes. Please note that this is a 128i without iDrive... the process may be slightly different for iDrive cars. I borrowed/modified this from a couple of E90 posts, but it worked on my E82.

1. Disconnect RDC module. Mine was in the trunk below the passenger side taillight, behind the trunk liner. Popped out a couple of plastic rivets, unplugged and removed the RDC unit and put the liner back in place.
2. Next, I had to change the VO and write it to the right modules. Open NCS EXPERT, FILE, PROFILE, EXPERTMODE
3. F1 (VIN, ZCF/FA)
4. F3 (ZCS/FA F. ECU)
5. SELECT CHASSIS (E89)
6. CAS, (VIN SHOULD POPULATE), OK
7. F2, ENTER FA
8. SELECT CHASSIS (E89), AGAIN
9. CLICK ON $2VB, HIT DELETE KEY ON KEYBOARD AND PRESS OK
10. F6, BACK
11. F4, PROCESS ECU
12. SELECT CAS, AGAIN
13. F2, CHANGE JOB, SELECT FA_WRITE
14. F3, EXECUTE JOB
15. F1, SG/SGEN, SELECT NFRM
16. F3, EXECUTE JOB
17. Next, I had to recode KOMBI to turn off TMPS now that the VO was correct. Open NCS EXPERT, FILE, PROFILE, EXPERTMODE
18. F1 (VIN, ZCF/FA)
19. F3 (ZCS/FA F. ECU)
20. SELECT CHASSIS (E89)
21. CAS, (VIN SHOULD POPULATE), OK
22. F6, BACK
23. F4, SELECT KOMBI
24. F2, CHANGE TO SG_CODIEREN, OK
25. F3, EXECUTE JOB

This worked perfectly for me.
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      02-16-2022, 08:29 AM   #61
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Huh, does seem fishy they all went out at once. Either it wasn't them, or the quality control / manufacturing of them is so great they all had identical lifespans? But, yeah, problem solved!
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      02-16-2022, 09:34 AM   #62
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Huh, does seem fishy they all went out at once. Either it wasn't them, or the quality control / manufacturing of them is so great they all had identical lifespans? But, yeah, problem solved!
Fishy is the right word... but this is a mystery I'm happy to leave un-solved!

If I had known how easy this was I would have done it proactively. If anyone hasn't done it, the choice between 20 mins coding it out and any amount of time chasing & diagnosing TPMS issues is an easy one.
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      02-16-2022, 09:51 PM   #63
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Wow - it's like deja vu all over again! I just put Bilstein B8s (B12 kit) in and when I buttoned it up . . . TPMS inactive and these codes:

• Fault code: 00604E Error RDC system / Error tire pressure control system
• Fault code: 00604F Error transmission channel VL
• Fault code: 006050 Error transmission channel VR

Okay, maybe something wrong with the connections to the RDC transmitters so I pulled the wheels and fender liners off and . . . oops! I left the right side disconnected. Left side was plugged in but I checked it and reseated it to make sure it was properly connected. Then I ran Carly diagnostics again, cleared the codes but the warning and right side code (006050 Error transmission channel VR) popped back up immediately.

I will pull the right wheel again and check/clean the connector and see if that makes a difference. But coding it out and not having to deal with a fussy system is sounding better and better. It may be time for me to learn about coding beyond what I can do with Carly. Your coding directions may be helpful down the road.
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      02-17-2022, 01:03 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by K9Leader View Post
Wow - it's like deja vu all over again! I just put Bilstein B8s (B12 kit) in and when I buttoned it up . . . TPMS inactive and these codes:

• Fault code: 00604E Error RDC system / Error tire pressure control system
• Fault code: 00604F Error transmission channel VL
• Fault code: 006050 Error transmission channel VR

Okay, maybe something wrong with the connections to the RDC transmitters so I pulled the wheels and fender liners off and . . . oops! I left the right side disconnected. Left side was plugged in but I checked it and reseated it to make sure it was properly connected. Then I ran Carly diagnostics again, cleared the codes but the warning and right side code (006050 Error transmission channel VR) popped back up immediately.

I will pull the right wheel again and check/clean the connector and see if that makes a difference. But coding it out and not having to deal with a fussy system is sounding better and better. It may be time for me to learn about coding beyond what I can do with Carly. Your coding directions may be helpful down the road.

How wild... it's always funny how many people there are working on these cars to have someone basically doing exactly the same thing and running into exactly the same problem at the same time.

Entirely possible I did the same and forgot to plug one back in when I put the fender liner back in, but I wasn't willing to pick the car back up and pull the fender liner when I could solve the problem permanently.
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      02-18-2022, 12:55 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexwerks View Post
How wild... it's always funny how many people there are working on these cars to have someone basically doing exactly the same thing and running into exactly the same problem at the same time.

Entirely possible I did the same and forgot to plug one back in when I put the fender liner back in, but I wasn't willing to pick the car back up and pull the fender liner when I could solve the problem permanently.
So, third time was the charm! Pulled the right wheel and fender liner and disconnected, cleaned the contacts, and reseated it making sure it was on completely (when I pulled it off, I could see that I had not plugged it all the way in). Reset the code and . . . success. Warning gone.
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      02-18-2022, 01:31 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexwerks View Post
If you're going to go whole hog like I did and swap in 335 wheel carriers and hubs, I believe any E90 wheel will fit. The only difference - I think - between the E8x and the E9x is the wider rear track on the E8x. The 335i hubs and carriers give you the E9x rear track and I believe you can run any E9x wheel set that clears the calipers.
This is not really true. The E9x rear hubs are 10mm narrower on either side and do help wheel fitment, and it is true that any E9x 335 wheel will clear the brakes but that does not mean they'll fit the E82 wheel wells. The E9x cars have a much lower offset.
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