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11-23-2018, 04:58 PM | #1 |
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Rear Subframe Bushings - OE vs M3 vs Aluminum
Here are some section views of OE vs M3 vs Aluminum rear subframe bushings. It is clear to me that BMW's bushings are highly engineered to provide different specific stiffness properties in the forward, side and vertical axes. For the sections on the RH side, forward is into the screen.
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11-28-2018, 01:34 PM | #3 | |
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However, i do not see the subframe bushings available on the M2 for example, at least in the parts diagram, or is that what you are referring to as "directly to the body" and nothing in between? |
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11-28-2018, 01:54 PM | #4 | |
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Note that the M3 CRT and M3 GTS back in the days also had the subframe solidely mounted to the body. |
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12-07-2018, 12:04 AM | #7 |
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I went from 135i OEM -> Alekshop Aluminum/Delrin -> TMS Solid Bushings and couldn't tell any difference in NVH. If I did it over I would go straight to solid no question. I believe the solid subframe bushings alone do not add any NVH but you may get some if you have other solid bushings (ie solid diff bushings as well).
Last edited by dbronnik; 12-11-2018 at 04:24 PM.. Reason: Wrong history of SFB :) |
12-07-2018, 07:40 AM | #8 |
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No increased NVH over stock+inserts.
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12-07-2018, 01:34 PM | #10 | |
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https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...SABEgJXofD_BwE
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12-09-2018, 06:49 PM | #12 |
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Any preference on the Turner vs. Bimmerworld? The Turner solid alu are on sale right now for about $40 less than the Bimmerworld ones.
Any reason to go with the Delrin + Alu like the Alekshop bushings? Thanks. |
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12-10-2018, 09:39 AM | #15 | |
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https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...e82-1m-e9x-m3/ Bimmerworld's appear to be anodized, which is a nice feature and perhaps worth the $40 premium: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Aluminum...-1-Series.html The only argument for Delrin is if you need to satisfy a rule set that requires a non-metallic bushing. They don't provide any structural advantage over solid aluminum. |
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12-10-2018, 06:41 PM | #16 |
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12-11-2018, 10:33 AM | #17 | |
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Alum shouldn't be too hard either as they insert from the bottom. |
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12-11-2018, 12:45 PM | #18 | |
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I did this when building my LSD; I put the differential mechanism itself in the freezer overnight, put the inner bearing races in the oven for about 30 minutes, and boom...they dropped right on, and I had a press-fit job done with very, very little effort, and no press. The diff is still the best, and most educational thing I've done to the car so far...
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12-11-2018, 01:31 PM | #19 | |
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12-11-2018, 03:10 PM | #20 |
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Bimmerworld units are indeed anodised. Mine were all black anodised unlike the picture on the site. They were also longitudinally drilled out for weight reduction rather than a 100% solid brick. Didn't get to weigh them.
fe1rx
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12-11-2018, 04:27 PM | #21 | |
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If you're also planning on doing engine mounts/diff bushings, perhaps consider the Alekshop ones over the solid ones. They'll help to prevent NVH from the diff at least. If you're only going to do the RSFB, and have a fairly stiff suspension with M3 arms, etc. then I'd just go straight to the solid ones.
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12-11-2018, 04:55 PM | #22 |
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Great info, thanks everyone. I know that the 2-piece Whitelines that I was preparing to get installed are quite a bit easier to install than the M3 bushings. If I change my mind and go solid aluminum, should I assume they'll be even tougher than the M3 bushings to install? I'm just trying to get an idea of install costs. Thanks!
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