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      05-17-2016, 03:00 PM   #23
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Just finished the rear brakes on the 205,000 mile E46. I purchased new rotors and pads but once I measured the rotors they were nearly new limits - just under 20mm thickness. They were almost the same thickness as new rotors. Minimum wear limit is 17.4mm.

Goes to show the the low dust pads I had on them were very, very easy on the rotors.

I should say that while my last 100,000 miles have been mostly highway my first 100,000 were a mix of highway and city. I think I've just developed a habit of going easy on the brakes.
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      05-17-2016, 03:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA135i View Post
That's hard believe that you went 65K on a set of brakes. It seems impossible, unless you really take it easy on them.
This is third BMW and the longest I went on a set was 38K.
I'm at 56K and counting, my m roadster was at 136K before they started vibrating really bad

If you do a lot of highway/backroad miles they will last and it's not farfetched

and I have driven the cars hard enough to smell the brakes (just not too often)
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      05-18-2016, 07:33 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowbudgethero View Post
I'm at 56K and counting, my m roadster was at 136K before they started vibrating really bad

If you do a lot of highway/backroad miles they will last and it's not farfetched

and I have driven the cars hard enough to smell the brakes (just not too often)
Yeah, well I think that's obvious that if you drive a lot of highway miles the brakes will last much longer.
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      05-18-2016, 08:38 AM   #26
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BMW replaced my fronts at 21k miles because they were warped and I was getting pretty bad vibrations. Front pads were also low at that point.

It's been another 25k miles now and the front rotors are still in great shape (multiple track days too). Front pads also don't look like there is that much wear on them at all... Not sure how to explain that other than maybe moving to a wider front tire is helping prolong the life of my brakes.

Rears haven't been touched yet after ~45k miles. They are low and due to be replaced within another 5k miles I'd say.
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      05-23-2016, 10:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie1 View Post
Edit: Mileage is at 44k and I do not know if PO tracked it.
If PO tracked it, PO might also have taken excellent care of the brakes, since they are ultra-important on the track. I have better brakes than 95 percent of the cars on the road, and that's with minimal upgrades.
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      06-16-2016, 03:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fboutlaw View Post
If your brakes are squealing it could be from a few things:
1. Poorly bedded rotor - Try rebedding sequence
2. gravel trapped in the caliper. This happens at autox's all the time. Drive backwards and jam on the brakes to try to dislodge.
3. If those don't work, you can either have your rotors shaved down and re-bed or replace them completely.

Good luck
Thanks.... Noise still exist. Thought the the OEM rotors couldn't be shaved?
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      06-18-2016, 01:41 AM   #29
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Could be the pad sensors. They start rubbing at about 7.5mm. One on the lf an rr. I just tied mine back because I inspect my brakes regularly. Edit: If your build date is 3/10 or above it has sensors that start rubbing at 3mm.
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Last edited by joe86; 06-18-2016 at 01:50 AM..
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      06-18-2016, 01:59 PM   #30
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A big variable on brake life is the transmission. Both my Suzuki SUV and my e88 are manuals. I have less than 50K on my e88 but have almost 126K on the zuk. It still has it's original brakes. I drive mostly in town. The e88 also still has it's original brakes but I will check them at 50K miles. I expect them to still be fine but different cars react differently. I might even put on some pads that dust less - BMWs are terribly dusty.

In brake cost, the variables are what gets replaced and by who. When I do the zuki, it will get pads - only. The disks are plenty thick. I won't have them turned either unless there are deep grooves. I will have to be careful for the first few stops to let the pads wear to the disks but after that, the brakes will be fine. I've done this on several other cars without issue. On my e88, I'm not sure. I might go "fancy" and put on new discs. But if I do the discs, I will probably not use BMW parts. Brake discs are not a high tech product. Aftermarket should be fine. Brakes are also not something a dealer needs to do. Any decent mechanic should be able to do brakes without issue.

Doing it myself and only doing pads, I would expect to do the Zuk for $100 or less. I'll spend more on the bimmer but I can't imagine spending more than $500.
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      06-18-2016, 03:17 PM   #31
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Maybe the biggest factor in brake life is the brake material itself.

BMW typically uses a softer brake material that gives up their life faster but with superior braking ability.

I know many people who have changed from the OEM material to a longer life pad.
They work fine but don't stop as well as the OEM pads.

I currently have 32K on my front pads. The car just passed state inspection, so they are still OK. I don't think I'll make it to 40K without replacing them.
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      06-27-2016, 10:15 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe86 View Post
Could be the pad sensors. They start rubbing at about 7.5mm. One on the lf an rr. I just tied mine back because I inspect my brakes regularly. Edit: If your build date is 3/10 or above it has sensors that start rubbing at 3mm.
Good point - thanks. At this point, I will take it to a shop. I tried CRC Brake Parts Cleaner and didn't work

The production date was Nov. 2009 and delivered Jan.10. In service Apr 2010


IF there is a bad sensor can it be replaced or do you have to replace the pad/dic too?


Thanks,
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      06-27-2016, 11:05 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WP1 View Post
Good point - thanks. At this point, I will take it to a shop. I tried CRC Brake Parts Cleaner and didn't work

The production date was Nov. 2009 and delivered Jan.10. In service Apr 2010


IF there is a bad sensor can it be replaced or do you have to replace the pad/dic too?


Thanks,
Once the sensor starts to rub the rotor the correct way to fix it is to replace the pads. It is not advised to grind down a new sensor to make it fit.
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      06-29-2016, 09:57 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe86 View Post
Once the sensor starts to rub the rotor the correct way to fix it is to replace the pads. It is not advised to grind down a new sensor to make it fit.
Well, took the car to the mechanic and just looking at the breaks he noticed they seem to be a good shape (plenty of disc and plenty of pads). I recorded the sound yesterday and he heard it. He didn't like it too and recommended to change the brakes because he believe the sensor would not make that noise and will send a message to the computer or to my dashboard. It seem impossible that there is not "quick" fix and not paying $$$$$ to have that noise disappear.. I really feel embarrassed when I break because of the noise. No good points for the Unlimited Driving Machine.
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Last edited by WP1; 06-29-2016 at 10:02 AM..
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