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      01-11-2020, 09:46 AM   #45
Jeef
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The options chosen for the rebuilt motor are not the best... read more and look more into engine rebuilders before pulling the trigger.

I'm surprised people ship their cars to him..
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      01-11-2020, 11:22 PM   #46
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Car max and drive a honda
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      01-13-2020, 02:59 PM   #47
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Seems like Ghassan is not to be trusted with major work.
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      02-08-2020, 12:21 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guslealisla View Post
BAD update:

I sent the engine to be rebuilt by ghassan auto in OK. It took about 8 months for the shop to pull the engine, then send it, then have it rebuilt then get it back in. 150 miles into the engine break it it started knocking. I took it to the shop and it seized while we were there...

I ended up shipping the whole car to the engine builder. I should have probably done that the first time. Ghassan the engine builder claimed injector failure dumped gas into the oil and reduced its viscosity and it seized because of that.
Claim: Not his fault... it needed new motor, new injectors, new starter, new battery.

another $6,000...

the car arrived 6 months later (he said it would take 2). It arrived with a broken front bumper, missing toe hitch, lug nut bar, entire undertray plastics, and bumper covers. Gauge cluster was not functioning. Also it has a boost leak. It had mismatching spark plugs and the coils went in a couple hundred miles.

He said he was going to look into it and never got back to me.


Luckily I left Dallas and moved back to phoenix where i'm from and I have a shop that I trust and we have been getting the car dialed in.

I may have the worst luck on this forum. I bought the car for $13,500 and now have just over $20,000 in repairs in under 2 years and less than 4K miles driven since I bought it.

I'm so upside down on this car that I am never going to sell it.


OUCH.

Dang you were in local. I seriously need to start doing more weekend work. Too many of good bits are being destroyed by scary af places. wow.
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      02-25-2020, 07:26 AM   #49
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Well, it's time for me to look into replacing my OFHG. Even though I feel I'm quite mechanically inclined and have performed every maintenance task on my 1er so far, I'm a little hesitant given this thread.

I phoned my dealer for some pricing on the gaskets and started asking questions. I asked if they've heard of any N55s seizing and they said yes, most likely caused by debris entering the check valve inside the oil filter housing itself.

They recommended If I'm doing it myself to just replace the whole housing instead of just the gaskets. For only $50 more it's a sure way of not getting any debris in the system. Does anyone have insight on replacing the whole housing? Thoughts?
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      02-25-2020, 09:36 AM   #50
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not sure what a new housing is going to do to help. I wouldn't buy a new one. clean the old one out with brake clean or something
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      02-27-2020, 07:15 PM   #51
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What would only be $50 more? The whole OFH? Really?
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      02-27-2020, 09:58 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devin_rsv4 View Post
Well, it's time for me to look into replacing my OFHG. Even though I feel I'm quite mechanically inclined and have performed every maintenance task on my 1er so far, I'm a little hesitant given this thread.

I phoned my dealer for some pricing on the gaskets and started asking questions. I asked if they've heard of any N55s seizing and they said yes, most likely caused by debris entering the check valve inside the oil filter housing itself.

They recommended If I'm doing it myself to just replace the whole housing instead of just the gaskets. For only $50 more it's a sure way of not getting any debris in the system. Does anyone have insight on replacing the whole housing? Thoughts?
This sound unnecessary. I replaced just my gaskets (technically there's two) and I've had no issues or leaks. This whole thread gives me nightmares as shops have screwed me before.

Best of luck to OP.
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      11-03-2021, 07:05 PM   #53
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I read on the 335i forums that this may be caused by failing to prime the oil pump after an OFHG replacement? There is a TSIB about this?

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1829827
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      11-18-2021, 03:29 AM   #54
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N55 OFH Priming

It would be most helpful if someone could say which number glove box fuses need to be pulled for the low side fuel pump in the E82 N55. I understand you can also pull spark plugs, and disconnect the electric connections on your injectors, crank for 10 seconds, rest 20, repeat twice to prime oil pump. I just finished replacing my OFHG and have a few things left to touch up before I start my car up. Getting the radiator fan in is the worst. Wish me luck!

Last edited by N55135i; 11-18-2021 at 03:36 AM..
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      11-23-2021, 08:09 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N55135i View Post
It would be most helpful if someone could say which number glove box fuses need to be pulled for the low side fuel pump in the E82 N55. I understand you can also pull spark plugs, and disconnect the electric connections on your injectors, crank for 10 seconds, rest 20, repeat twice to prime oil pump. I just finished replacing my OFHG and have a few things left to touch up before I start my car up. Getting the radiator fan in is the worst. Wish me luck!
Good luck! or now, how'd it go?

DIY is likely done 1000% better than shops.

Shops act like this is an area with little concern and haphazardly handle it. It's very odd how many shops disregard the criticality of a clean oil system.

Degreasing and brake cleaning all around the OFH area is pretty simple.

Watching youtube vids of OFHG replacement and this area is all nasty and covered in dirt and debris, knowing some of that is going to end up in there is like watching slow motion engine destruction.
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      11-24-2021, 05:59 AM   #56
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N55 135i OFHG Tips

I completed changing my OFHG, ordered a better gasket material, & installed the $400 Mosselman thermostat upgrade. I want to emphasize the importance of vaccuming above the manifold before loosening it. It's a tight area especially in the back cylinders & dirt can drop in from above. I didn't reinstall my boost pipe clamp correctly so on my first run it actually popped off resulting in a nerve racking check engine light. When I ran the MHD diagnostic it pointed to boost leaks so I visually saw the pipe was out of place. My car has been running fine since. Labor on this would have easily cost me, guessing $800 plus. Also, what I did was trim around the fan plastic because it gets caught in several places. If you just take a dremel & grind down certain plastic overhang areas on these cars like the N55 bottom piece plastic engine cover, installing & removing things becomes wayyy easier with more tolerance for yourself or anyone else that has to work on it.

Edit, another thing I need to point out, my fuel pump fuse is #70. I pulled it to prime my engine but as expected, it did immediately start up for a few seconds because there was still fuel in the lines. So if I was doing it again, I would unplug the coils as well before priming. Theres a lot that goes into this, I did pour oil into the filter before starting, & I didn't even mention all the torque specs or tools needed. Had I known all this after dropping it off at a shop, I would definitely be concerned that they miss a step.
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Last edited by N55135i; 11-24-2021 at 12:29 PM..
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