Automatic Climate Control stopped working.

[Ursan]

2012 128i coupe.

Yesterday for my AM commute, the ACC didn't power on. No lights, nothing.

I've tried searching this forum without result, but I did find some clues on other sites.

1: check fuse. Here's the problem with that. The fuse diagram is missing from my car. So I'm not certain what fuse I'm looking for. Plus what diagrams I am finding are NOT for my car. (BMW's decision to locate the fuse panel where it is leaves much to be desired.)

2: replace ACC. I've not had this car for 2 weeks and this is already happening. Just a bit frustrated.

Any ideas?

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Ursan

2012 128i coupe.

Yesterday for my AM commute, the ACC didn't power on. No lights, nothing.

I've tried searching this forum without result, but I did find some clues on other sites.

1: check fuse. Here's the problem with that. The fuse diagram is missing from my car. So I'm not certain what fuse I'm looking for. Plus what diagrams I am finding are NOT for my car. (BMW's decision to locate the fuse panel where it is leaves much to be desired.)

2: replace ACC. I've not had this car for 2 weeks and this is already happening. Just a bit frustrated.

Any ideas?

I'm guessing you know that the fuse diagram is hidden away behind the glovebox as well as the fuses, and is why you said it was missing right?

I'll take a picture of my fuse diagram for you from my 135i in case it might help you at all.

[Ursan]

Originally Posted by dtla1

I'm guessing you know that the fuse diagram is hidden away behind the glovebox as well as the fuses, and is why you said it was missing right?

I'll take a picture of my fuse diagram for you from my 135i in case it might help you at all.

I can see where's supposed to be, but it's not there. I'm hoping that isn't a sign of problems to come.

[Dackelone]

Have you tried scanning for HVAC codes ?


Also be aware there is a recall for BMW to check the wires going to your blower motor. They get burnt up over time and can cause a fire. Check your VIN at your nearest dealer.

fuse card(s)...

[Ursan]

Thank you very much! That looks a lot more like what I have than the other diagrams I've been able to find.

Based on this, what is(are) the fuse(s) I should be looking at? How does one scan HVAC codes? Regular OBD scanner?

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Have you tried scanning for HVAC codes ?


Also be aware there is a recall for BMW to check the wires going to your blower motor. They get burnt up over time and can cause a fire. Check your VIN at your nearest dealer.

fuse card(s)...
Attachment 2196669

Attachment 2196671

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Ursan

Thank you very much! That looks a lot more like what I have than the other diagrams I've been able to find.

Based on this, what is(are) the fuse(s) I should be looking at? How does one scan HVAC codes? Regular OBD scanner?

A generic code reader won't work. You need something that can read bmw specific codes.

BMW Carly + you will need the OBDII dongle from Amazon($60 SW +$25 for the dongle). I like using Carly you can download it from any app store online. But you need that OBDII dongle.

MHD software is free... but you need a special cable for your phone.

I think even the Creator C310 will read some of the "other" ecu's in our cars.

As for which fuses to check... I don't know exactly. I would look at:
6, 77, 88 and; 14, 15, 18, 19, 27, 42, 56, 63

Dackel

[Gangplank]

Looks like Dackel posted the diagram. When you say the AC won't power on what happens when you push the AC button on the console? Mine stays in what ever setting it was in last time I drove (and it remembers based on the key that was used).

[Ursan]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

Looks like Dackel posted the diagram. When you say the AC won't power on what happens when you push the AC button on the console? Mine stays in what ever setting it was in last time I drove (and it remembers based on the key that was used).

Not AC, ACC. Automatic Climate Control. The entire HVAC control unit doesn't power on. No heat, blower, AC, or heated seats. Nothing works.

[Ursan]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

BMW Carly + you will need the OBDII dongle from Amazon($60 SW +$25 for the dongle). I like using Carly you can download it from any app store online. But you need that OBDII dongle.

As it happens, I have the Carly reader and software. It was the first thing I purchased, though yet to use it. Are you saying the reader needs an OBDII adapter?

As for which fuses to check... I don't know exactly. I would look at:
6, 77, 88 and; 14, 15, 18, 19, 27, 42, 56, 63

1/2 a foot of snow today. I'll check them ASAP.

[dtla1]

By the way, does the Blower Motor Wiring Recall apply to you, if so, have you gotten it done?

If not, might as well take your car to get it done. Not sure if a precursor to that thing catching fire are your symptoms.

[tracer bullet]

Back in the day, when car stereos were easy and I was also into them, this would sound like a power plug simply got knocked off the backside of the HVAC assy in the dash. Not the kind of thign that happens on its own, but if anyone has been in the dash for any reason (i.e. putting an aftermarket stero back to stock before selling the car), it could be something like this?

[Ursan]

Originally Posted by dtla1

By the way, does the Blower Motor Wiring Recall apply to you, if so, have you gotten it done?

If not, might as well take your car to get it done. Not sure if a precursor to that thing catching fire are your symptoms.

Good call. But I checked my VIN with BMW and there aren't any open recalls for my car.

[Ursan]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Back in the day, when car stereos were easy and I was also into them, this would sound like a power plug simply got knocked off the backside of the HVAC assy in the dash. Not the kind of thign that happens on its own, but if anyone has been in the dash for any reason (i.e. putting an aftermarket stero back to stock before selling the car), it could be something like this?

I was going to pull the ACC to see if there's power going to it (it'd be easier to pull that ACC than to check fuses) and if there are any loose cables.

[tracer bullet]

Cool. There's a site called "realOEM" that shows diagrams and part numbers for our cars. I've found it handy to get an idea of where clips and things are when removing stuff to help ensure I'm not yanking / prying too indiscriminately. Might be worth a peek to see how it goes together, unless you've already found another source.

[Ursan]

So I couldn't find a bad fuse. (did I mention that BMW did a lousy job placing it there?)

I ordered a replacement on eBay. We'll see.

The worst part? I haven't driven it 200 miles since purchase. Last Monday was 10 days of ownership.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Ursan

So I couldn't find a bad fuse. (did I mention that BMW did a lousy job placing it there?)

I ordered a replacement on eBay. We'll see.

You really should check for codes first. And yes, you do need something to transmit from your car's OBD II port to your phone/tablet using Carly.

[Ursan]

Originally Posted by dtla1

You really should check for codes first. And yes, you do need something to transmit from your car's OBD II port to your phone/tablet using Carly.

I have the Carly dongle and was able to get codes. Other than the lack of TMPS in my 4 tires, I had 00A6E0 (heated seat driver) which makes sense and a 00A738 (Power Interrupted) But I can't see what that's pointing at.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Ursan

I have the Carly dongle and was able to get codes. Other than the lack of TMPS in my 4 tires, I had 00A6E0 (heated seat driver) which makes sense and a 00A738 (Power Interrupted) But I can't see what that's pointing at.

Ran the second code through google and this thread from the M3 forums came up: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1451007

They're saying it's the code for a DC/DC Converter fault. It looks like that converter is located in the white box under the hood, and you can get them for relatively cheap online.

[Ursan]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Ran the second code through google and this thread from the M3 forums came up: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1451007

They're saying it's the code for a DC/DC Converter fault. It looks like that converter is located in the white box under the hood, and you can get them for relatively cheap online.

Mine is 00A738, you found 00A733 for the start/stop feature. Do you think it's the same thing? I'm trying to locate the DC/DC converter, do you know of another name or where I can look up the part #?

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Ursan

Mine is 00A738, you found 00A733 for the start/stop feature. Do you think it's the same thing? I'm trying to locate the DC/DC converter, do you know of another name or where I can look up the part #?

Oops, I definitely missed that.
I'm not an expert on these things at all, but I think codes that are usually close like this derive from the same or similar source usually.

Might still be the same thing, I'm trying to make sense of some wiring diagrams on TIS, but not crystal clear in my mind.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...verter/kJPH1I9
and
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e82-135i-cou/ZF6sIin


I'm having trouble trying to confirm the part number, but if you google search BMW DC DC Converter, or Torque Converter you should see some results pop up. Most seem to be used parts places.

[Ursan]

Originally Posted by dtla1

I'm having trouble trying to confirm the part number, but if you google search BMW DC DC Converter, or Torque Converter you should see some results pop up. Most seem to be used parts places.

The best I'm finding is this: But it's for the torque converter? It's the only one listed.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Ursan

The best I'm finding is this: But it's for the torque converter? It's the only one listed.

I noticed that too, but just put it down to a translation issue or something.