BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      11-03-2008, 01:38 AM   #1
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New member , couple of question on 135i

Well just registered today, I'm from Saudi Arabia . Hopefully I will be ordering my 135i by the end of this month and it should take around 3-4 months till it gets here. I'm going for Montego Blue exterior, Coral Red Boston Leather interior, and Aluminum accentuated pattern interior trim.

I keep reading about the E-diff, any info on that and how it works? any known reliability issues? my current car is an E46 318ci cabrio so I know BMWs can have some small glitches here and there but nothing major. Also wanted to know the "Year 1 of the one" is a US only thing.

Edit: One more thing , I've read that the DSC system allows for more sporty driving is this related to the E-Diff?
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      11-03-2008, 06:34 AM   #2
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The E-diff is simply an extension of the Stability and Traction Control system.

When you start the car you get DSC as always.

And just like your E46 when you press the DTC button the system then allows more wheel slip and sideways action before intervening

Now when you hold the DTC button down until the system shuts off completely, you get E-diff. What the system does is use the rear brakes to slow the over spinning wheel in a turn, and so causes the open differential to send more power to the under spinning wheel. In effect you get the action of a limited slip differential without the weight or cost.

As far as reliability goes, it sure seems like it might give your rear brakes a lot of extra work at the track. On the other hand a LSD is very expensive.

Now I'd like to put the standard warning that BMW likes changing things in different markets so this information may not apply to you.
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      11-03-2008, 06:43 AM   #3
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thank you for your reply.We get Euro spec cars.

Any reliability issues with the turbo engine?
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      11-03-2008, 10:38 AM   #4
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      11-03-2008, 10:45 AM   #5
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There are lots to read about the car, my suggestion is try the search first. Lots of posts about everything from the little stuff (from stains to wax) to the bigger stuff (ECU version, brake pistons, mods, etc)

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      11-03-2008, 10:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adood84 View Post
thank you for your reply.We get Euro spec cars.

Any reliability issues with the turbo engine?

As far as I know the turbo's are reliable. The only engine problems people seem to have are the infamous fuel pump problems. Not sure if it applies to Euro spec though. But when you get your car, if you notice that when you start it up the engine consistently takes extra long to rev up and start, its the fuel pump. same problem on 335's, and i'm assuming 535's.

EDIT: It isn't an engine "problem" exactly, but people also say the car tends to go into limp mode when they push it hard and its very hot outside. Generally it's not problem, but considering your location (never been to SA, but I'm assuming it's pretty hot there), you might want to be mindful if you track or race your car.
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      11-03-2008, 11:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1speedbike View Post
As far as I know the turbo's are reliable. The only engine problems people seem to have are the infamous fuel pump problems. Not sure if it applies to Euro spec though. But when you get your car, if you notice that when you start it up the engine consistently takes extra long to rev up and start, its the fuel pump. same problem on 335's, and i'm assuming 535's.

EDIT: It isn't an engine "problem" exactly, but people also say the car tends to go into limp mode when they push it hard and its very hot outside. Generally it's not problem, but considering your location (never been to SA, but I'm assuming it's pretty hot there), you might want to be mindful if you track or race your car.

It gets very hot here in the summer , reaches 50+ C, I usually drive my car hard but always ease on it at noon and when temps are hot , beacuse with this amount of heat its not only the engine you have to worry about , but also tires and brakes. Also we get a Gulf spec package which I think also relates to hot climate areas. I say this because my 318 has a hot climate air filter and it has ventted rear brakes which euro spec 318s don't come with.
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      11-03-2008, 12:00 PM   #8
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Mabrook ( Congrats ) man, Awesome color combo u went for.

Manual or Auto?
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      11-03-2008, 08:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QJS View Post
Mabrook ( Congrats ) man, Awesome color combo u went for.

Manual or Auto?
I'm going to order an Auto, with Pro Sat Nav, Electric Seats, Bluetooth, USB, M-Steering wheel, and No Sunroof.

Although I love driving manual, having it in traffic it tiring . Plus this is going to be daily car for at least a couple of years :headbang:. From what I heard the Auto is really good, anybody got any experience with it ? the auto I have on my 318 would shift automatically when it reaches the redline, its slow in downshifting for example.

And one more thing , does the boot have space for a spare tires? I would be planning on changing those RFT and getting some PS2s and a spare from BMW in a year from getting the car.


One funny thing is some of my family members who are cluless about cars , said why would you go down from a 3 series to a 1 series lol , its funny the associate the fist number only even though 3 was followed by a 18 LOL

QJS: How is the AC on the 135i ? have you tired it yet? my 318s AC was very good so I'm not expecting anything less I hope.
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      11-03-2008, 11:20 PM   #10
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The A/C is quite good IMO. Some have complained about it, but I never had any problems getting it to cool down the cabin rather quickly. Then again, it doesn't get up to triple-digit (degrees farenheit) all that often where I'm from.
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      11-04-2008, 02:56 AM   #11
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The N54 runs pretty hot, there are some people who complain about overheating, limp mode, etc. Probably something to look into since you're in a hot hot place.

EDIT: This issue was addressed, my bad.
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      11-04-2008, 09:13 AM   #12
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i test drove the 135 in auto (all they had) , ordered it in manual ---- but I must say the 135 in auto was the most fun i've ever had in a car without a clutch.
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      11-04-2008, 09:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruck View Post
i test drove the 135 in auto (all they had) , ordered it in manual ---- but I must say the 135 in auto was the most fun i've ever had in a car without a clutch.
thats really good to know :thumbup:
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      11-04-2008, 09:31 AM   #14
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Has there been any 135's that overtemped and went into limp, I had only heard of 335's doing it, and even that was because they lacked the second oil cooler that all the 135's come with.
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      11-04-2008, 09:33 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by ARES45 View Post
Has there been any 135's that overtemped and went into limp, I had only heard of 335's doing it, and even that was because they lacked the second oil cooler that all the 135's come with.

So the 135i comes with another oil cooler that the 335i doesn't come with ? interesting I would like to know also
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      11-04-2008, 09:45 AM   #16
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I believe the 335s have it now as well, originally they only had one and it wasn't enough during hard driving to stop an overtemp, then when problems arose, BMW would put in another one to keep the engine from overtemping. In the begining for 335's you had to have a problem to get the extra oil cooler, now I think they come with the secondary oil cooler.
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      11-04-2008, 10:47 AM   #17
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the oil cooler is there, but isn't very efficient. N54s typically run oil temps at about 250 degrees F or 120 C. If you push it hard in very hot weather it will get dangerously hot.

What's gay is, instead of genuinely addressing the temp problem in newer 335s or 135s, BMW just changed the oil temp gauge to read 250F in the middle tick.
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      11-04-2008, 10:56 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lambammm View Post
the oil cooler is there, but isn't very efficient. N54s typically run oil temps at about 250 degrees F or 120 C. If you push it hard in very hot weather it will get dangerously hot.

What's gay is, instead of genuinely addressing the temp problem in newer 335s or 135s, BMW just changed the oil temp gauge to read 250F in the middle tick.
well from this thread

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129666

it seems that Oil cooler is added only for cars with Sport and bigger wheels.

This post states something different to what your saying

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=17


Quote:
Even with the oil cooler your temps will still hit 240-250. The thermostat to open oil flow to the cooler is set at 240 from what I remember, so it will always get to there. If you look in all the new 3s and 1s, the mid point of the oil temp gauge is set at 250, where in mine (Oct. 06 build) its set at 210.
it seems that the new Oil cooler will open when temps hit 240.
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      11-04-2008, 11:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lambammm View Post
the oil cooler is there, but isn't very efficient. N54s typically run oil temps at about 250 degrees F or 120 C. If you push it hard in very hot weather it will get dangerously hot.

What's gay is, instead of genuinely addressing the temp problem in newer 335s or 135s, BMW just changed the oil temp gauge to read 250F in the middle tick.
250F is where you want a full synthetic. Synthetics have flash points of 475-500F versus 400F for most dino oil. Synthetics will be in optimal effective range up to ~400F versus ~300F for dino. A hotter synthetic will still give you a cooler crankcase. And if you don't believe me, just ask your local formula 1 team.

The only post I've seen about a 1 overheating came from the guys that took best in class and blew the factory M3 out of the water in 1 Lap of America. That car was modded, and a third oil cooler in series addressed the problem IIRC.
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      11-04-2008, 11:08 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esses View Post
250F is where you want a full synthetic. Synthetics have flash points of 475-500F versus 400F for most dino oil. Synthetics will be in optimal effective range up to ~400F versus ~300F for dino. A hotter synthetic will still give you a cooler crankcase. And if you don't believe me, just ask your local formula 1 team.

The only post I've seen about a 1 overheating came from the guys that took best in class and blew the factory M3 out of the water in 1 Lap of America. That car was modded, and a third oil cooler in series addressed the problem IIRC.
Yea, but we're not in Saudi Arabia. And yes, everyone knows that we need synthetic oil.
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      11-04-2008, 11:15 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adood84 View Post
well from this thread

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129666

it seems that Oil cooler is added only for cars with Sport and bigger wheels.

This post states something different to what your saying

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=17




it seems that the new Oil cooler will open when temps hit 240.

I'm just saying I had an early model 335i coupe and when I asked about the oil temp, they just offered to change the gauge for me. I'm afraid the problem is more long term than say limp mode. But I guess we'll all just have to see. How many cars do you know run a consistent 120 C oil temp from the factory? (not rhetorical, I actually wanna know)
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      11-04-2008, 11:17 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lambammm View Post
How many cars do you know run a consistent 120 C oil temp from the factory? (not rhetorical, I actually wanna know)
LOL to be honest the 318 was my very first car , so I'm used to have that BMW neddle to be setting right in the middle between the red and blue box . So there are no numbers
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