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| 10-09-2015, 10:48 AM | #45 | |
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| 08-20-2016, 07:48 PM | #46 |
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Eliminating e-Diff & Other Nannies
I am going to completely ignore the elephant in the room that it's been an embarrassingly long time since I've updated this thread. It's been a busy year and unfortunately not with autocross, or really the car at all. But now that work is calming down a little, I am making some efforts to get back to this and deal with some of the things that have been frustrating me about this otherwise great little car. As you likely know, the 1 series (along with most every modern BMW) has an electronic differential, which basically means that when it detects a wheel slipping, it simple applies the brakes selectively to that wheel. This works just fine on the street but is not a desirable characteristic on a track or autocross course - it's hard on your rear brakes, makes the car unpredictable, and generally is inferior to a mechanical differential.. Most people who have installed an LSD have reported that they have no issues with interactions between the new mechanical LSD and the stock e-diff. I am not one of those people, my car feels like a civil war is being fought between the incumbent e-diff and new mechanical LSD. Specifically, at autocross with DSC fully disabled by the 3 second push, you can absolutely feel the brakes / ediff fighting aggressively. It has incredibly loud vibration / noise when applying power out of a turn in a traction limited situation. I have been doing lots of reading, and today I took the plunge and had my car recoded to eliminate the e-diff (along with a few other things while I was in there). Guide to electronic nannies and how to code them off and a few other threads here and on E90post have been invaluable to learning which modules/codes need to be tweaked. Here are the 4 I recoded from the DSC module (descriptions blatantly stolen from the excellent "Paradoxical" guide linked above): DIFF_LOCK This is the actual electronic differential - ie the automatic application of one wheel braking to whichever rear wheel is detected to be slipping under throttle application. FLR ("Engine Power Reduction to Prevent Brake Disc Overheating") This is the worst of them all. Modern BMWs will actively cut the throttle in the middle of your track day if it has reason to believe that your brake pads are overheating. Normally, this wouldn't be such a bad thing - nobody wants to crash into ARMCO going 140mph. The problem is, your BMW doesn't actually have temperature sensors anywhere in the braking system. The computer relies on a "calculated" brake disc temperature based on several inputs including ground speed, brake pedal application force, and the frequency with which the electronic differential applies "torque-vectoring" braking. Your BMW has no way to know that you installed a Stoptech Big Brake Kit with Castrol SRF fluid and Performance Friction PFC01 pads. It just assumes you are running the stock system and cuts your throttle based on values that would overheat the OEM brake pads. FBS ("Brake Fading Compensation") Brake fade compensation "calculates" the temperature of your brake fluid. The higher the calculated temperature of your brake fluid (remember, there is no real sensor), the more hydraulic assist will be added to your brake pedal. In theory, this masks brake fade on the street. On the track, it makes a consistent brake pedal literally impossible. BB_RAB ("Brake Standby") This is another ridiculous feature that works well on the road, but terribly on track. If your car detects an aggressive throttle lift-off, it will pre-tension the brakes in anticipation of a hard braking maneuver. This would actually be great if it wasn't for what it does next - if you don't brake within 8 seconds of throttle lift-off, it un-tensions the brakes. I have a theory that people who think they are experiencing pad knock-back on the track are actually just being victimized by this "feature." Turn it off for a more consistent brake pedal that responds predictably. Here are the actual values I have changed these to: Code:
Codes changed in DSC module: (these are the "after" values) C0F_DIFF_LOCK wert_00 wert_01 C0F_FBS wert_00 C0F_FLR wert_00 wert_02 C0F_BB_RAB wert_00 Code:
Stock TRC file for 2011 BMW 128i (Canadian edition, 07/10 build date) DSC module: SZL wert_02 C0X_C8 wert_02 C0F_AFH_HSA wert_01 C0F_AFS wert_00 C0F_ASC_AMR_STB wert_03 C0F_ASC_BMR_STB wert_02 C0F_ASL wert_00 C0F_BAUART wert_02 C0F_BB_RAB wert_01 C0F_BBV wert_00 C0F_BBV_KORR_HA wert_00 wert_03 C0F_BBV_KORR_VA wert_04 C0F_BERGAB_GERASTET wert_00 wert_01 C0F_BERGAB_KENNEN wert_00 wert_01 C0F_BERGABANSATZ wert_00 C0F_BTM wert_00 C0F_CBC wert_00 C0F_CF_ESM_HB wert_00 wert_01 C0F_CF_ESM_LB wert_00 wert_01 C0F_CR_ESM_HB wert_00 wert_01 C0F_CR_ESM_LB wert_00 wert_01 C0F_DBC_MIN_AUSLOESEDRUCK wert_00 C0F_DCC_C_AAT wert_00 C0F_DCC_C_ATT_SCHUB_AUS wert_00 C0F_DCC_C_ATT_SCHUB_EIN wert_00 C0F_DCC_DTC wert_00 C0F_DELTA_PSI_BETA_LIMIT wert_01 C0F_DF_DIR wert_02 C0F_DIFF_LOCK wert_02 C0F_DRUCKMODELL_HA wert_02 C0F_DRUCKMODELL_VA wert_02 C0F_ECBA_DCC wert_00 C0F_FBS wert_01 C0F_FLR wert_01 C0F_GETRIEBE wert_00 C0F_GMB wert_00 C0F_GMK_ECBA_HA wert_01 C0F_GMK_ECBA_VA wert_03 C0F_GMR_MAX_LIMIT_SCHRAEG wert_00 C0F_GMR_MIN_LIMIT_SCHRAEG wert_00 C0F_HSA wert_02 C0F_HSA_AFH_AFU wert_00 C0F_IPM_MAX_P_RES wert_00 C0F_KUEHLSCHACHT wert_02 C0F_LCL wert_00 C0F_LENKWINKELKENNLINIE wert_03 C0F_LF_ESM wert_00 wert_01 C0F_LR_ESM wert_00 wert_01 C0F_LUEFTER wert_00 C0F_LWK_X2 wert_00 wert_01 C0F_LWK_X3 wert_00 wert_01 C0F_LWK_X4 wert_00 wert_01 C0F_LWK_Y1 wert_00 wert_01 C0F_LWK_Y2 wert_00 wert_01 C0F_LWK_Y3 wert_00 wert_01 C0F_LWK_Y4 wert_00 wert_01 C0F_M_ESM wert_00 wert_01 C0F_MIN_DRUCKAUFBAU_GRAD wert_00 C0F_MOTOR wert_05 C0F_MOTOR_LEISTUNG_MAX wert_00 wert_18 C0F_MOTOR_SCHLEPP_P wert_00 wert_01 C0F_PRE_MSR wert_00 C0F_PRE_USC wert_00 C0F_RPA wert_00 C0F_RPA_SCHWELLE wert_01 C0F_SC_X_ESM wert_00 wert_01 C0F_SC_Y_ESM wert_00 wert_01 C0F_SCHUBABSCHALTUNG wert_00 C0F_SDR_CTC wert_00 C0F_SETZ_V_MAX wert_00 C0F_SPURWEITE wert_00 wert_01 C0F_SST wert_00 C0F_TB_BDD wert_01 C0F_THETA_ESM wert_00 wert_01 C0F_UEBERSTEUERN_MUE_0 wert_03 C0F_UEBERSTEUERN_MUE_1_2 wert_03 C0F_UNTERSTEUERN_MUE_0 wert_00 C0F_UNTERSTEUERN_MUE_1_2 wert_00 C0F_UNTERSTEUERSCHWELLE wert_00 wert_02 C0F_V_EINHEIT wert_00 C0F_VERZOEG_NEG_FEIN wert_00 C0F_VERZOEG_NEG_GROB wert_00 C0F_VERZOEG_POS_FEIN wert_00 C0F_VERZOEG_POS_GROB wert_00
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| 09-17-2016, 07:08 PM | #50 |
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Installing Active Autowerke Headers
I've had these sitting on the shelf for some time and finally had the time (to con my friend into installing them for me). These are standard off the shelf Active Autowerke 128i headers, purchased directly from AA along with their Simon 3 flash tool for a new tune.  Straight out of the gate, these headers are beautiful to look at! They appear well made, inside they are not perfect (ie some of the O2 bung welds have been smoothed internally and some have not) but the fitment was bang on, just as AA said they would be, and for the price I think they are a well made product.  To do this job, you are going to want a hoist - you need to alternate between working from the engine bay and underneath and ultimately trying to snake the headers in while on jackstands would be at best incredibly difficult and at worst, impossible.  I am fortunate that in addition to the shop, I have a good friend who is a BMW technician to "help" (ie do the work). The job took a total of 3.5 hours including cooling the engine down (the orange fan) and a brief McDonalds break.  The obligatory "before" shot.   It is immediately obvious when you put them side by side how much better these will flow given the elimination of the primary catalytic converters combined with the far less harsh bends required.  Primed and ready for the new headers.   I also took the opportunity to weigh them. The OEM manifolds weigh 8.300kg (I have correctly zeroed them to not weigh my "props") or 18.298lbs. The AA headers weigh 6.593kg or 14.535lbs. Their benefit will be far larger than the weigh savings but almost 4lbs saved is a nice perk.  As previously mentioned, the AA headers fit perfectly out of the box and included all required hardware. Now that the headers are in, I have had an opportunity to drive the car and have some initial thoughts although the tuning is not yet installed. The sound: my car's exhaust was 100% stock, no BMW Performance exhaust before this modification. The addition of the header has helped the car sound "throatier" and has added some additional "oomph" when at full throttle, especially lower in the power band, but has really not resulted in much increase in volume, just a change in sound. It's extremely manageable and most people would probably think it was stock and just sounded nice. The performance: some portion is no doubt placebo, but the car simply feels torquier. I do not have the software installed yet, and the idle is very poor as the car is hunting, but there has so far not been a check engine light triggered though I've only driven about 25 miles. While it idles poorly, it runs perfectly well at 1,500rpm+ and feels great. So far I am very pleased, and am looking forward to getting the AA tuning in and reporting further. Until next time, Mark
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| 09-18-2016, 06:12 AM | #51 |
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If you haven't built a race exhaust yet, both Kyle and I have substantial performance increases from the designs we sorted out. Mine weighs 16(!) lbs more, but is stock-like sound (80.3 DB). I'll be swapping the heavy rear muffler for a Borla ProXS at events next year, it's actually too quiet. Had it v-banded post-resonator, so easy to swap.
I run the same headers. They're fine, but IMO there'd be a good bit gained from a custom route. Packaging demands and $$ prevent me from wanting to bother. |
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| 09-18-2016, 11:24 PM | #52 |
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Yeah this is good enough on the $$$/effort basis right now. I just downloaded my stock software and sent it to AA so hoping for a revised tune in the next day or so. I have still not had a CEL turn on despite about 100 miles of varied driving.
Mark
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| 10-23-2016, 05:23 PM | #53 |
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First event since the recoding... fantastic improvement. Can't even begin to say what a difference it made - the car was absolutely hideous to drive with the grinding/fighting of the back end, and it is completely gone.
I actually look forward to getting this thing back on track! Mark
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| 11-28-2016, 08:34 PM | #54 |
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I just did these myself over the last few days. I didn't beat your 3.5 hour mark... my arms just didn't fit in there so it was a bit of a struggle. As far as your rough idle I had the same thing after updating to the new tune. Once I reset the adaptations the idle was smooth at ~650 rpm.
The instructions from AA said that I could reset the adaptations though the Simon3 software, but that box was greyed out when I tried to get to it in the diagnostics tab. I had to reset them using a snap-on scanner w/ the euro package. If your buddy has a factory scan tool that should solve your idle issue. My impression of the heads is the same as yours.... beautiful, and fits well. Andrew and Nic at AA were awesome and I had the tune update 30mins after I placed the order for the header.
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| 11-29-2016, 02:36 PM | #55 | |
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| 11-29-2016, 04:02 PM | #56 | |
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I am running the super sprint mid section and a magnaflow cat back already. I also discovered a bit of a rattle that is bugging the hell out of me because the two collectors are barely touching. I backed the nuts off a few turns to get some wiggle, shoved a piece small piece of wood in there and still need to tighten it back up. My arms look like I have been punching though windows after screwing with this for the last few days so I threw in the towel this afternoon. I thought I had my idle surge issue sorted last night but when I fired up the car this morning and after giving it a few revs it came back. I HOPE the issue is that I had an exhaust leak at the head which was freaking out the o2's. Fingers crossed it goes away after I make the adjustments and tighten it all down again. (sorry for the thread jack)
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| 11-30-2016, 09:37 AM | #58 | |
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Thanks.
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| 11-30-2016, 12:48 PM | #59 |
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Idle surging would come and go for me, NBD. No driveability impact.
I'm switching into an AS / SSR Z06 for 2017, and making the 128 my daily. Just simplifying, mostly due to out-of-autocross life factors. |
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| 11-30-2016, 03:59 PM | #60 |
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I'm glad to know this is a common thing. I was pulling my hair out (the little I have left) running smoke tests, checking o2 data, etc.
Good luck in the Vette. I was looking at either a C6 or c5 Z06 instead of my 1 series back in 2011. Mark... I think you and I are the only two idiots trying to make these work in STX. *** I just put 20 miles on the car tonight and the idle smoothed out. Thanks for putting me at ease. ***
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| 11-30-2016, 07:44 PM | #61 |
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That's not true. Michael Carpenter picked up Kyle's old car and is actively developing it, he just isn't posting on here. He's going pretty crazy making changes to Kyle's build, so we'll see how that works out for him.
I still really like the 128 as a street car, and I'm not really going out of my way to part out the core STX stuff (power, diff, shocks) as of now, and they're staying on the car. I'll probably play around with it a little bit this year at some local events. FWIW, I still think the 128 is the best car for the class when fully developed, it is just, well, a pretty big undertaking to get there. The cost to get it down within 50lbs of E36 weight (which is possible) is pretty staggering, and requires R&D I've lost motivation to take on myself. |
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| 12-01-2016, 10:14 AM | #62 | |
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| 12-01-2016, 08:00 PM | #64 | ||
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| 01-09-2017, 12:43 AM | #65 |
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Front Tension Arms
One of the upgrades that is most talked about for the E8X/E9X is the OEM M front control arms - the tension arms and lower wishbones. Unfortunately, in the class I am competing in, the longer M wishbones are not a legal upgrade, but the tension arm is, so I decided to do the upgrade.  Top is a 67k mile stock tension arm shared by any non-M E8X/E9X. The bottom is a TRW 1M/M3 tension arm. The arm and ball joints are identical (although the new ball joint is a nice thing to have, my old ones seem to move smoothly and show no signs of wear) but the reason these are an upgrade is the bushing. The top bushing is the standard soft-as-heck bushing that has considerable give in each direction, while the bottom is a much stiffer bushing providing for less deflection during cornering and braking. The install is easy - this thread has some great images: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=778726 A few things that that thread does not do well though is understand how to remove the balljoint nut. What worked well for me was a 21mm on my impact gun to loosen it initially, then a 21mm wrench and a T40 socket on the end of the bolt. To reinstall just did the opposite substituting an impact gun for torque wrench. Don't forget to not torque the bushing end until the car is at ride height - in my case we lowered the car (on its front wheels) onto ramps which allowed us to still get underneath and the access is actually quite easy at that point. The first impressions were not hugely different, but the biggest reason I wanted to do this mod is to help the car not behave strangely under braking, so I look forward to testing it at autocross. One other thing we checked was the the noise I was getting from my front swaybar. Despite less than 10k miles and no real winter driving, it turned out upon undoing the end links, that the swaybar was not only making tons of noise, but actually binding to the point that it was almost not moving. Some grease into the handy zerk fittings and cycling through its range of motion has it silent and now moves much easier - this was a huge difference on the drive home and makes me think that the car may have really been struggling. Well worth triple checking regularly even when it's not making noise. -Mark
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| 05-27-2017, 12:37 PM | #66 |
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A Quick Update...
The build has continued much like the thread, slower than anticipated. However, thankfully the car is now at a point where it is starting to work as an STX car and now instead of chasing fires, I am starting to be able to work on driving and setup.  The car now goes, stops, and turns without too much drama. No more rubbing, no more clunking, just generally seems to work. There is a lot of prep to go still but this car is now starting to at least feel like it is no longer fighting, and we are now just working towards incremental improvements (time/$$$).  Here is a summary of how the car has been doing so far. You can see the car is improving, and all events with the exception of the very last, have been on Ryan's old RE71Rs - to say they are well loved would definitely be fair. We also have a lot of weather related issues over this part of the season for us so I would say while the STX results tend to be comparable since we are run together, there were at least a few events where the race tire guys (some of our most competitive classes) got better weather and skewed the overall PAX results. Oct 23/16: UBC Sports Car Club "Slush 1" STX: 9/12 (+4.571s to first) PAX: 49/91 (+5.848s to first) Nov 20/16: UBC Sports Car Club "Slush 2" STX: 3/16 (+2.310s to first) PAX: 27/83 (+3.801s to first) Dec 4/16: UBC Sports Car Club "Slush 3" STX: 4/14 (+1.139s to first) PAX: 19/82 (+2.386s to first) Apr 2/17: UBC Sports Car Club "Slush 7" STX: 2/11 (+0.836s to first) PAX: 17/79 (+1.241s to first) Note: very short course (my time 36.668s) Apr 16/17: VCMC "Cup 2" STX: 1/12 (-0.792s to second) PAX: 3/120 (+0.925s to first) Apr 30/17: UBC Sports Car Club "Here Comes The Sun" STX: 1/12 (-0.834s to second) PAX: 9/91 (+1.499s to first) May 14/17: UBC Sports Car Club "Raydays #1" STX: 1/10 (-1.148s to second) PAX: 9/75 (+0.783s to first) Note: new tires as of this event May 28/17: VCMC "Cup 3" STX: 1/15 (-0.397s to second) PAX: 10/124 (+1.018s to first) Note: no codriver for this event Jun 11/17: VCMC "Cup 4" STX: 1/15 (-0.162s to second) PAX: 20/119 (+1.803s to first) Note: coned away fastest run, good for 0.511s improvement, improving to PAX 10/119 Jun 18/17: UBCSCC "Raydays 2" STX: 1/13 (-0.634s to third since we were in first and second) PAX: 11/91 (+1.945s to first) Note: coned away fastest run, good for 1.804s improvement, improving to PAX 3/91  Up next for the car is custom offset bushings for front control arms to add additional camber, they are here now so just need to go in. The next "big ticket" is likely an exhaust - power, weight, and sound - all good stuff... While I have a few more local events to attend, we have two major events coming up in the PNW that I am registered for: Canadian Nationals at the end of June (4 courses with 3 runs each) and Packwood SCCA National Tour (mid July). It will be very interesting to see how the car does! Until next time, Mark
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