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      02-26-2021, 03:58 AM   #1
gwolfe
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Valvetronic servo motor noise. Replace just Eccentric shaft actuator or actuator and

Hello all,

I bought a 2011 135i 6MT with 49k miles for 18k after test driving a 14' 328i with 50k and a 14' m235i with 80k. I by far liked the 135i the best so I pulled the trigger. It had a good service history, interior was nice, and most importantly was low miles and a manual. The only issues were the paint could have been better and it had been sitting at the dealer for quite awhile, only being driven about 400 miles in the last year. When he bought it at auction he replaced the clutch and flywheel. Then covid hit and he hadn't gotten many hits so he lowered the price and I bought it.

When it test drove it, it ran great, the carfax was clean, nothing to make me nervous. The dealer has great reviews and a dealership full of lightly used BMW's.

I drive 15 minutes home and drive the car up on ramps to change the oil due to how long it had been sitting and when I lock the car I hear a rapid clicking noise for about two seconds. After doing some searches on this site and other bmw forums it seems I have a valvetronic/ eccentric shaft actuator issue.


Luckily the dealer is being cool about it and offered to have his in house mechanic diagnose and fix it. After researching my only concern is if they only replace the eccentric shaft actuator or motor. Should the shaft be replaced as well? Has anyone had this issue themselves after their car sat for awhile? Also can I drive the car to the dealer and another bmw shop to get a second opinion or should I have it towed. It drives totally fine. No check engine lights, just the loud rapid clicking when locking the car.

Thanks for any advice. Really looking forward to actually driving my car, right now it's sitting my driveway until I get it fixed.
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      02-26-2021, 09:55 AM   #2
drwillb
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You will need to check for codes on the computer. These can help you figure out what's going on.

Last summer, my 2012 135 said the actuator was dead. This was after the usual clicking and ticking noises upon unlocking and opening a door. After a week or so the actuator noises stopped altogether. That's when it had died.

I went ahead and did the valvetronic motor replacement and programed the endpoints, etc. as per the manual. A couple of months later, the clicking and ticking started again but this time the codes said it was all beyond resetting. I did try the full eccentric shaft reset but it did not work. At that point it was time to replace the shaft.

Runs perfect now but it was a 12 hour job and tedious. Not difficult, but you have to dig deep to get it done. From my searching I found out that $3500 for the job is a common fee. Be prepared for that or more if you don't do it yourself. The shaft alone is a $900 part.

And, yes, if you're going to have the shaft replaced, definitely replace the actuator. It's only an additional part cost now vs. part + a few hours labor as a separate job down the road
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      02-26-2021, 11:41 AM   #3
MightyMouseTech
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BMW says replace the motor first. Then replace the shaft if noise returns.
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      02-26-2021, 11:54 AM   #4
Thunderguts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
BMW says replace the motor first. Then replace the shaft if noise returns.
I haven't heard of too many shaft failures. How much mileage do you typically see before the shaft shows enough wear to cause a fault?
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      02-26-2021, 02:03 PM   #5
drwillb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderguts View Post
I haven't heard of too many shaft failures. How much mileage do you typically see before the shaft shows enough wear to cause a fault?

Mine failed at 112k miles. It was definitely shot. I wish I had taken a picture but forgot to. I think what happened, at least in my case, is that the needle bearings and carriers wear and that allows too much fore-aft movement. On my eccentric, the toothed gear part that the servomotor engages had been riding up against the bearing journals. The thing was quite scored and grooved.
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      02-26-2021, 02:11 PM   #6
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BUmmer.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1740751

I didn't look at the actual parts but the dealer I took mine too said that there was galling between the motor and the shaft and they felt it would come back. I normally have an overactive skepticism of diagnoses I don't do myself but they seemed pretty legit and had even sent videos of what they were working on since I'd been asking so many questions about it. Tech seemed to have a lot of experience so I went w/ his opinion and got it done.

Good luck!
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      02-26-2021, 02:13 PM   #7
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That's a fair amount of material wearing down to cause that much play. I wonder if you could predict it early with an oil analysis.
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      02-26-2021, 03:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderguts View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
BMW says replace the motor first. Then replace the shaft if noise returns.
I haven't heard of too many shaft failures. How much mileage do you typically see before the shaft shows enough wear to cause a fault?
Seems to be directly related to lack of oil changes and letting the car idle too much, not related to mileage.

But ya, if you go in there and see wear on the eccentric gear, better to replace it.
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      02-26-2021, 03:51 PM   #9
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I had 29k miles, didn't idle much, and the times I drive it are usually 20-30 minutes at least, to be sure it'd be warmed up. Annual changes (about every ~ 1,000 miles). I wondered if there was such a thing as driving it too little LOL.

I'm sure that idling and lack of oil changes are the likely causes. I was really surprised to have an issue.
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      02-26-2021, 07:52 PM   #10
gwolfe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
I had 29k miles, didn't idle much, and the times I drive it are usually 20-30 minutes at least, to be sure it'd be warmed up. Annual changes (about every ~ 1,000 miles). I wondered if there was such a thing as driving it too little LOL.

I'm sure that idling and lack of oil changes are the likely causes. I was really surprised to have an issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
I had 29k miles, didn't idle much, and the times I drive it are usually 20-30 minutes at least, to be sure it'd be warmed up. Annual changes (about every ~ 1,000 miles). I wondered if there was such a thing as driving it too little LOL.

I'm sure that idling and lack of oil changes are the likely causes. I was really surprised to have an issue.
Yea I suspect the culprit with mine is it was barely driven a year and some change. Luckily the dealer I bought it from is going to pay for at least part of it. Looks like I'm just going to encourage them to replace the shaft as well or I will pay the difference. Thanks for the advice everybody!
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      02-27-2021, 12:41 PM   #11
drwillb
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On higher mileage motors the needle bearing carriers (plastic) degrade due to high temps and thermal cycling. Same as the VC, pan, and OFH gaskets.

I'm pretty sure my eccentric was replaced prior to my purchasing the car at 48k miles. One of the bolts that hold down the cam followers for the eccentric shaft was loose and two were completely off and laying there looking at me. How the bolts didn't end up in the valve train is truly a miracle. I found this when doing the VC and OFH gasket job at around 55k miles.

So, I'd say my car is on a roughly 50k mile replacement interval for the eccentric.

And, NO, I don't idle long or forget to change my oil. If anything, my engine spends more time above 5k rpm than at idle.


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Owned so far: 88 M3 x 2, 95 325is, 95 M3 x 2, 06 Mini Cooper S, 08 335 xi, 09 Z4 35i, 01 M3, 12 135i

Last edited by drwillb; 02-27-2021 at 12:49 PM..
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