Liqui-Moly Oils and Lubricants

[brauheist2007]

My '11 135i has been out of warranty for a bit so I've decided to start my own DIY maintenance routine. With that I wanted to find a good oil to start using in my car. I know that it's pretty specific what should go in it.

I've seen Liqui-Moly advertised on different BMW race cars in different racing series so I contacted them directly to see what they'd recommend. I'm definitely going with the Leichtlauf 5W-40 oil and will probably use the Jectron cleaner at some point. I am a little hesitant to use the Cera Tec though. I've seen rave reviews on other european auto forums (VW, Audi, even Volvo), but I've never used an oil additive. The dude seemed to understand I wanted to increase the longevity of my motor and it's what he recommended. Thoughts?

Here's the e-mail conversation and a couple of attachments:

Nachricht:
Hi! I have decided to switch from BMW Castrol/Shell Oil to a better higher performance oil. I have a BMW 135i with the N55 engine and 42000km on the engine. I plan to keep my car for a long time because I think it will be a classic someday. I recently tuned the engine with a Dinan tune which increased the turbo boost. Which of your oils would you recommend for increased performance and best life of the engine? I only drive the car about once a week. Or about 3200km a year. Temperature ranges from -12 to 43 C where I live, but the car is kept in a garage. Thank you for your time! Christian USA

Dear Christian.

Thank you for your inquiry and your interest in Liqui Moly products.
I recommend you as engine oil for your BMW 135i our Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech SAE 5W-40 part no. 2332 (5 l). This synthetic oil meets the required specification BMW Longlife-01 and is very suited for tuned engines. The Leichtlauf High Tech ensures a fast lubricating of the engine and provides a stable lubricating film even under extreme conditions.

To get the best wear protection, i recommend you also our Liqui Moly Cera Tec part no. 3721. By a combination of a chemical friction modifier an a ceramic solid lubricant, Cera Tec prevents the direct metal-to-metal contact and reduce so the friction and the wear.

In addition, i recommend you our Liqui Moly Jectron Fuel Injection Cleaner part no. 2007 to get the best performance from your engine.

I send you our product informations in the attachment. Should you have any further questions, please contact us.

Best regards
i. A. Roman Göser
Anwendungstechniker
application engineer

[PA135i]

I use the other Liqui moly oil treatment (MOS2 anti-friction engine treatment) and have for years with no issues. Use at every oil change.
I also use the Jectron injection cleaner along with the valve clean once a month. I figure it will keep the injectors cleaner using it consistantly every 30 days or so. I also switched to Top Tier gasoline as an added benefit. I probably don't need the cleaners with the top tier gas but I use it anyway.

Lubro moly has been around for years and is a top company. I thought about the Cera tec but I feel better using the MOS2 oil treatment. My Independent shop uses Motul oil. They claim it is better than BMW's current oil and soon I will be switching to that. You can't go wrong with Lubro moly. Keep us updated.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by PA135i

I use the other Liqui moly oil treatment (MOS2 anti-friction engine treatment) and have for years with no issues. Use at every oil change.
I also use the Jectron injection cleaner along with the valve clean once a month. I figure it will keep the injectors cleaner using it consistantly every 30 days or so. I also switched to Top Tier gasoline as an added benefit. I probably don't need the cleaners with the top tier gas but I use it anyway.

Lubro moly has been around for years and is a top company. I thought about the Cera tec but I feel better using the MOS2 oil treatment. My Independent shop uses Motul oil. They claim it is better than BMW's current oil and soon I will be switching to that. You can't go wrong with Lubro moly. Keep us updated.

Liqui-Moly is good stuff.

I have been using the MOS2 oil additive for years in everything I drive, including the 1er. Moly is good stuff, and not put in modern oils because if burning a lot of oil, it can damage the cat.

May not be great for the cat, but I would rather replace a cat than an engine.

Also, to the OP, just because a racecar has a sticker, does not mean they actually use it.

Our GrandAm BMW was sponsored by some oil company, can't remember right now who, we had all the stickers on the car, and their oil bottles everywhere, which had been cleaned out and refilled with Redline oil.

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Liqui-Moly is good stuff.

I have been using the MOS2 oil additive for years in everything I drive, including the 1er. Moly is good stuff, and not put in modern oils because if burning a lot of oil, it can damage the cat.

May not be great for the cat, but I would rather replace a cat than an engine.

Also, to the OP, just because a racecar has a sticker, does not mean they actually use it.

Our GrandAm BMW was sponsored by some oil company, can't remember right now who, we had all the stickers on the car, and their oil bottles everywhere, which had been cleaned out and refilled with Redline oil.

Moly is used as an additive by Mobil 1 and is in their European formula. I believe Redline and Amsoil use it as well. It will do no harm to your cat. You might be thinking of Zinc and Phos, which I believe at high levels can damage your cat.

Oil additives are not really needed in a modern engine, if you use top grade oils. Liqui Moly is an okay oil to use, but I would never pay more for it than Mobil 1 0W-40 or Castrol 0W-40, which are just as good, if not better oils.

[brauheist2007]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Also, to the OP, just because a racecar has a sticker, does not mean they actually use it.

Our GrandAm BMW was sponsored by some oil company, can't remember right now who, we had all the stickers on the car, and their oil bottles everywhere, which had been cleaned out and refilled with Redline oil.

Haha. Well I figured stickers didn't mean they HAD to use it or if it even worked well. Just saw it enough and I figured there had to be something to it so I decided to contact them. I'm planning on doing the MTF and diff fluid as well and I hear Redline is the stuff to use.

[brauheist2007]

Decided I'll use the Ceratec as well. I can't find anything negative about the product or the technology behind it. I've read a bunch of success stories though. I'll revive this thread once I get it in the car.

[2PUTT]

May I suggest getting your oil analyzed with Blackstone first. It will tell you where your car stands with the current oil being used. If you want to try new oil, go ahead. Maybe send another sample after 2-3 oil changes with the new oil for analysis. This would be the best way to determine if switching is worth it or not.

I've used moly products as well as Amsoil, Motul, and even Rotella. They're all great products. The oil analysis would probably your best bet. The kits are free and the analysis is pretty cheap.

[PA135i]

I'm approaching 100K and don't burn a drop of oil, so I don't think an analysis would tell me much. As far as different oils ... I do want to switch to Motul because it was recommended by my indy shop as a better oil than the BMW dealer's Castrol/Shell oil du jour.

[2PUTT]

Originally Posted by PA135i

I'm approaching 100K and don't burn a drop of oil, so I don't think an analysis would tell me much. As far as different oils ... I do want to switch to Motul because it was recommended by my indy shop as a better oil than the BMW dealer's Castrol/Shell oil du jour.

100k is a great time to check. It might even tell you if it detects any traces of coolant or adhesives just as an example. It would never hurt to check.

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by 2PUTT

100k is a great time to check. It might even tell you if it detects any traces of coolant or adhesives just as an example. It would never hurt to check.

I agree, it won't hurt to check, but oil analysis should be done over time with multiple samples to establish trends. Variability in the test is such that, one data point does very little good.

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by PA135i

I'm approaching 100K and don't burn a drop of oil, so I don't think an analysis would tell me much. As far as different oils ... I do want to switch to Motul because it was recommended by my indy shop as a better oil than the BMW dealer's Castrol/Shell oil du jour.

Any oil that is certified as an LL-01 oil is a very good oil (especially if it has the Mercedes and Porsche certifications, which most that are certified to BMW, also have the other two).

Choosing one over the other has more to do with brand preference and marketing than anything. Motul is really no better than Mobil 1 0W-40 or Castrol 0W-40 and I doubt you can find anyone with scientific evidence to prove otherwise.

[PA135i]

BMW recommends 5W30 for my vehicle. Where I live it makes the most sense as we have some very cold winters ..like last winter. I'm just relaying what my independent shop was telling me as the oil he recommends to his clients. This shop works on all European makes but mostly Audi, BMW and Porsche.

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by PA135i

BMW recommends 5W30 for my vehicle. Where I live it makes the most sense as we have some very cold winters ..like last winter. I'm just relaying what my independent shop was telling me as the oil he recommends to his clients. This shop works on all European makes but mostly Audi, BMW and Porsche.

You can also use a 0W-30 or 5W-40 or 0W-40 oil. A 0W oil is better for cold winters, since it flows better a colder temperatures and will reduce start-up wear (where the majority of engine wear occurs). A 40W should also protect your engine better at operating temperatures, with the only detriment being an approximate reduction in fuel mileage (~1% or less, which is probably not even noticed). Though any oil that meets LL-01 pretty much needs to be a relatively heavy 30W oil.

[PA135i]

Oil is a big debate on every car site. If BMW says 5w30 I'll use 5w30. The brand and quality is narrowed to LL-01 specification. I'm aware of the different weights and brands out there. I'm fine with what the dealer recommends and what my shops choice is. This isn't something I need to be schooled on. but thanks anyway.

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by PA135i

Oil is a big debate on every car site. If BMW says 5w30 I'll use 5w30. The brand and quality is narrowed to LL-01 specification. I'm aware of the different weights and brands out there. I'm fine with what the dealer recommends and what my shops choice is. This isn't something I need to be schooled on. but thanks anyway.

Not trying to "school you". BMW says you can use other weights, not just 5W-30, so I'm not just making things up. Use what you want, its your engine.

Finally, no real debate here, since I'm talking physics and facts.

[PA135i]

Originally Posted by Iron Man

Not trying to "school you". BMW says you can use other weights, not just 5W-30, so I'm not just making things up. Use what you want, its your engine.

Finally, no real debate here, since I'm talking physics and facts.

Hey pal. relax and have a coke and a smile. and yes.. you are trying to "school me"... all the info you have given me I have known for several years....
so I don't need any more classroom instruction.. but thanks anyway..I just heard the bell ring.. can I go now.

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by PA135i

Hey pal. relax and have a coke and a smile. and yes.. you are trying to "school me"... all the info you have given me I have known for several years....
so I don't need any more classroom instruction.. but thanks anyway..I just heard the bell ring.. can I go now.

Thanks, but by your response, you seem less relaxed than I am, so you might want to have a coke yourself.

You said that you were just going to accept whatever some shop was recommending, which didn't sound too educated to me (based on their suggestion and your needs).

[PA135i]

Originally Posted by Iron Man

Thanks, but by your response, you seem less relaxed than I am, so you might want to have a coke yourself.

You said that you were just going to accept whatever some shop was recommending, which didn't sound too educated to me (based on their suggestion and your needs).

I can assure you I am very relaxed. And yes I accept the shop and mechanic that has worked on these cars for more than 15 years.

And I don't appreciate your insult saying that I am not educated.
I am a PE. Professional Engineer. I had to get a lot of education for that. lol
but it appears I can never top your post because of your own quest to get in the last word.

this will be my last word. you've already wasted too much of my time.

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by PA135i

I can assure you I am very relaxed. And yes I accept the shop and mechanic that has worked on these cars for more than 15 years.

And I don't appreciate your insult saying that I am not educated.
I am a PE. Professional Engineer. I had to get a lot of education for that. lol
but it appears I can never top your post because of your own quest to get in the last word.

this will be my last word. you've already wasted too much of my time.

Woah, I think you need to relax a lot more than. I'm only replying since I think you have the wrong impression from my last post.

I never said you weren't educated, nor trying to insult you. There is a difference between saying someone has appeared to make an uneducated decision and being uneducated. They are mutually exclusive.

Either way, good day sir.

[PA135i]

Good day indeed. Oh my..