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05-25-2022, 02:12 PM | #1 |
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Have pure stage 2, no bottom end power?
So as the title says, I recently purchased a 2011 135i with the N55 engine. The car has only 38k miles on it and already has the pure stage 2 turbo installed with 2k miles on that, along with intercooler, injen jntake, charge pipe, catless downpipe and a custom tune with MHD.
This past week I finally installed a wavetrac LSD so I had smoky tire hopes with it. And I cannot get the damn thing to break traction. It has Michelin pilot all seasons in 245 in the rear. Those should absolutely melt…but even flooring it while turning a 90 right from a stop will not get them loose. (DTC is off) For comparison I've had a 2012 135 that was stock and another 2011 135 with 90k miles with full MHD on stock turbos and that thing could not keep from spinning Michelin super sport 265's. So I was quite shocked to not be able to get the little 245 tires to spin or drift. It was daytime and I didn't want to be violent with it, but what I was doing would have easily resulted in nice drift with the previous cars. Once the turbo spools around 4K rpm it pulls hard, but is this normal to have such non existent bottom end? I will be looking for and taking it to a local shop here in Broward to Dyno it. I learned a lesson with a previous car that just because it has this and that installed, it "should" make this much power. Well the Dyno will tell the story of what it's actually doing. Goal for the car is a fun street car but definitely a track car for road course events. I'd also like it to drift. Nothing seems obviously wrong, and I attributed its behavior to simply a shift of power to the top end. Im going to guess much of it is tuning, and a different map may help, but say it doesn't. Im satisfied with 400-450 at the wheels, does the pure stage 1 better suit what I want? I would imagine it's more efficient to run the stage 1 vs the stock turbo since stock turbo isn't intended for that level of power. Open to advice and suggestions. Once I Dyno it I will report back.
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05-26-2022, 02:34 PM | #2 |
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Ask your tuner to increase torque on low RPM
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05-28-2022, 07:30 PM | #3 |
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Do you have a third gear log? The PS2 spools very fast so something is not right.
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08-07-2022, 08:04 PM | #4 |
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Update, have taken the car into M Tech Performance in Ft Lauderdale and they diagnosed a pretty big boost leak from the diverter valve. Should be getting the car back this week hopefully and also asked for a dyno run once it's all back together. Stay tuned for results.
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08-07-2022, 10:22 PM | #5 |
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Who is the tuner? A log would be the best way to give you feedback
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08-26-2022, 10:44 PM | #6 |
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Hi Zoli007 ,
Very similar build. 2011, PS2 installed at 65K miles, all supporting FBO and custom tune from Wedge to run on CA 91 Oct (add 1 gallon of E85 to help with timing corrections) Would agree and have similar thoughts about the PS2. I specifically only drive Canyons (in CA) and expressed this both to the shop and tuner with end results in mind. However, after many map revisions, the PS2 stills spools very late (close to 5K) and then goes off like a rocket. Below 5K, the car feels dead. This is not well suited to canyon driving. Yes - I have changed driving style to suit, but still, keeping the car in high revs is challenging at times, particularly on technical, lower speed roads. The car almost feels 'ON' or 'OFF'. Knowing what I know now, I would say the PS2 suits the guys looking for fast drag times and more open/sweeper roads & tracks. Keeping the PS2 in that higher rev range to exploit the turbo can be challenging on technical roads. I have asked Wedge to see if we can spool earlier, but have been advised to just drive the car in higher RPM...... Cheers |
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08-26-2022, 10:48 PM | #7 | |
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08-28-2022, 01:03 PM | #8 |
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PS2 definitely does not spool anywhere as fast as stock in my experience. Beyond that it's kind of subjective as to what is "fast" spooling. I don't expect much from my PS2 below 3k RPM.
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08-28-2022, 01:40 PM | #9 |
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Its one of the fastest spooling turbo kits. I think it's the fastest but I don't have data.
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08-29-2022, 10:48 AM | #10 | |
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I have a PS2, self tuned, and in 3rd if I go WOT at 3100 rpm I'm at 23#, which is my target, by 4300 rpm. In 4th if I go WOT at 2k I'm at 23# by 3500. Even from a 2k roll in 5th gear I'm at 23# by 3300. I think your issue is your tune NOT the PS2. I really like the PS2, but having said that I think I've maxed out what I can (reliably & efficiently) get from it and am leaning towards a PS3 swap probably within the next 6 month.
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2011 135i DCT - FBO PS2 1Mpostr Last edited by JPuehl; 08-29-2022 at 10:55 AM.. |
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08-30-2022, 12:15 PM | #11 |
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Where in CA, Bruce? I'm in Socal, near Malibu.
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09-04-2022, 01:08 PM | #12 |
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Sorry I haven't responded to this post in a while, I figure it's time to update what the latest info is.
I had reached out to pure to see what they say and was told the PS2 should spool around 2500 RPM. And that at 4K which mine was spoiling at there was definitely a problem somewhere in the system. They advised I check for boost leaks and then look at the the tune. Took to shop and was diagnosed with a big boost leak from the diverter valve. They replaced it and I had asked for a dyno run. And then I got the bad news, apparently the turbo blew on the dyno. Prior to sending the car in I was getting some decent amount of blue/black smoke from the exhaust so I don't put any blame on the shop for what happened it just happened in their possession. So now, I'm at the point where I obviously need a new turbo and just weighing options. A rebuild of my existing turbo is at most $1200 so that's likely what will happen. I will have one more chat with pure about what stg1 vs stg2 looks like for drive ability since top end power isn't a priority for me but smooth track driving and drift ability. That's what I've got for now, once it's rebuilt I'll update with power numbers and we see. As for why it failed in 2 years, they suggested that due to the boost leak, the turbo was over spinning to produce boost and that's what led to the premature failure. Seems to make sense to me. Annoying, especially since it will be 3+ weeks to get it rebuilt, but part of the fun I guess. This is a toy and not a daily so ultimately not the end of the world. Still waiting on the front and rear brake kit bought back in February…
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09-06-2022, 04:10 PM | #13 |
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ps2 is making crazy power at 3k rpm. Anyone saying it only makes power at 5k is mistaken or has a major issue. The car actually stops building extra power over 5500rpm, it just doesn't dip like the stop turbo does. Your power levels will be basically the same on PS2 from 5500-7000rpm. The stock turbo loses power over 5500 rpm (i posted a dyno that confirms this way back). PS2 drives almost exactly like stock until 4k rpm, then you notice the extra 150whp.
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2011 Space Grey 135i DCT:
Pure Stage 2, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, ST XTA Coilovers, Berk Street Axle Back, MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless DP, VRSF 5" FMIC, VRSF LCP, BMS UCP, M3 FSB, e92 M3 Drivers Seat. |
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01-05-2023, 02:28 AM | #14 | |
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Did you get it rebuilt? If so what damage had occurred? My ps2 has failed..I think its the thrust bearing..there minor damage to housing..just curious if yours was same and if that type of damage is still acceptable to rebuild. Cheers Mark |
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01-21-2023, 05:24 PM | #16 |
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My 135i build just finished and im on PS2 lower high flow turbos. Im currently sitting over 500rwhp according to my tuner. Once i go Port Injection in 2 weeks, i should be somewhere between 600rwhp to 700rwhp. My turbos spool really fast id say by 3000rpm im hitting boost extremly fast. I think it has a lot to do with your tuner. Im currently tuned with JSR Tuning. I have 3 maps. Map one is low boost street map on 93 octane, Map 2 is High Boost Agggressive Track Map (my car is a track car not a drag/street car) E30/E85, Map 3 is Low Boost E30/E85. My car continues to surprise me once ive put these PS2s. Once you fix the boost leak id talk to your tuner and get some maps for your tune to work with the PS2s. You should be hitting boost by 3000rpm pretty hard.
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