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      12-02-2020, 10:33 AM   #23
mKilgore
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My suspicion is similar to your above notations AndyW. Though I have no real knowledge, I believe that the computer has some logic that is coupled to the TSTAT position. When the TSTAT is fully closed, the logic has an expected delta that the coolant temperature should warm up to versus time. When the coolant temp does not meet that increase in temperature versus time (due to the CSF radiators increased efficiency) then the assumption is made that the TSTAT is not properly closed and flowing more coolant than it should. This is why you get the "TSTAT jammed open" code. Which makes sense, the car is trying to close the TSTAT but is not seeing the corresponding increase in coolant temp it is expecting and thus there must be a fault. However, none of that is true, it is simply that the radiator cools the coolant at a delta below the computers logic.

My experience with this is that it is a computer issue. Not a physical fault like the TSTAT or wiring. I admire your persistence, but unless you want to get into the computer programming of the DME and start messing with that then I would just tape off your grill and call it a day. You won't have to worry about having to stop and reset your car all winter.
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      12-02-2020, 01:10 PM   #24
blue135
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Do these engines use an electronically controlled thermostat (actual movement governed by inputs from control source) or is the thermostat movement in response to temperature of coolant?
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      12-02-2020, 06:00 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by blue135 View Post
Do these engines use an electronically controlled thermostat (actual movement governed by inputs from control source) or is the thermostat movement in response to temperature of coolant?
My understanding is it is both. I read somewhere that the ECU can control +-20% of where the mechanical position is.
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      12-02-2020, 09:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mKilgore View Post
My experience with this is that it is a computer issue. Not a physical fault like the TSTAT or wiring. I admire your persistence, but unless you want to get into the computer programming of the DME and start messing with that then I would just tape off your grill and call it a day. You won't have to worry about having to stop and reset your car all winter.
But we do have people in this community that do know how to access and modify the DME...
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      12-03-2020, 08:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mKilgore View Post

My experience with this is that it is a computer issue.
The only thing that doesn't make sense is...why does the temperature sensor show a fault too? Why wouldn't the DME just let it continue to track actual temp? That part is really tripping me up in this hypothesis. If the temperature indicated a failure first (which I don't know how to check - which one comes first), that could cause the TSTAT to code. But, it still goes to a specific temp (226F), which looks suspiciously like a "on fail go to this value". It's also interesting that the temp sensor code is a Shadow (inactive) code. Every time. While the TSTAT code stays active.

The new TSTAT and pump came in, so, it'll be nice to get that refresh done. I guess I'll find out afterwards if it was done early or not...
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      12-25-2020, 03:32 AM   #28
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hello andy. I have the same problem. error codes 348a and 293e. the fan runs on a cold engine at low temperatures. I replaced the sensor and the water pump, but the fan is still working. did you fix this problem? sorry for my English. greetings
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      12-27-2020, 02:07 AM   #29
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hello andy. I have the same problem. error codes 348a and 293e. the fan runs on a cold engine at low temperatures. I replaced the sensor and the water pump, but the fan is still working. did you fix this problem? sorry for my English. greetings
Sorry, haven't replaced the pump and thermostat yet. Only the temp sensor.
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      12-27-2020, 02:50 AM   #30
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Ok! write if you can fix the problem. I am curious if the thermostat replacement will help. I have no other idea for that
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      06-15-2021, 04:16 PM   #31
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Ok! write if you can fix the problem. I am curious if the thermostat replacement will help. I have no other idea for that
So, water pump and thermostat replaced and...it now does it below about 55F...lol. So the pump appears to be stronger. I think mKilgore is correct: It's an ECU programming issue and the solution is to mask off one kidney grille half the year...
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      06-25-2021, 02:10 AM   #32
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My car runs with the CSF radiator + the auxiliary water cooler, and there is zero protest from the ECU. Engine is N54 with MT.

I'm guessing it must be the programming for N55's and automatic transmissions...
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      06-25-2021, 08:09 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt View Post
My car runs with the CSF radiator + the auxiliary water cooler, and there is zero protest from the ECU. Engine is N54 with MT.

I'm guessing it must be the programming for N55's and automatic transmissions...
Likely true. But N54 also runs hotter so in this case that helps. My 335i is N54 AT and also has a CSF rad and dies not have the issue.
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