1m with ap racing bbk

[ahtim]

Just replaced my brakes to bbk ap racing, I would like to ask apart from changing the fluid, do I need to do any software related things? My car is a stock 1m, just installed bbk and nth else

Thanks in advance

[CarJunkie]

Should not need any programming. If you left the rear stock, you will definitely have more of a front breaking bias which may affect behavior at the limit when threshold breaking. If you run a square tire set up, it actually ends up being ideal.

[ahtim]

Originally Posted by CarJunkie

Should not need any programming. If you left the rear stock, you will definitely have more of a front breaking bias which may affect behavior at the limit when threshold breaking. If you run a square tire set up, it actually ends up being ideal.

Because it is a diy, I end up doing the front last Sunday, but not yet the rear, so do I need to do anything apart from brake fluid change? Thanks

[CarJunkie]

No, all you need to do is flush the fluid.

Just make sure you bleed all of the air out of the system. Even if you use a pressure bleeder, I would recommend doing at least a few pumps with the old-school method (pushing the Brake pedal all the way to the floor with bleeder screw open). It takes long enough to change out the caliper that air can make its way up into the master cylinder. Our master cylinder is oriented add an upward slant and air will pocket at the top end of the cylinder and will not be pushed out when bleeding with a pressure bleeder. Cycling the master cylinder will get all of the air out of there.

[PRTSB1M]

The BMW prescribed method is to use INPA to bleed the brakes using the DSC/ABS pump method. Search YouTube, plenty of videos on how-to.

[CarJunkie]

Originally Posted by PRTSB1M

The BMW prescribed method is to use INPA to bleed the brakes using the DSC/ABS pump method. Search YouTube, plenty of videos on how-to.

I suppose you can do that if you want to make it really complicated. I don't worry about the small amount of fluid that stays in the ABS pump since I'm changing it so regularly anyway. You can bleed using that pump, but with the exception of the pump itself, you get just as effective a fluid change with a pressure bleeder hooked to the reservoir or the old school pump method.

[ahtim]

Originally Posted by CarJunkie

I suppose you can do that if you want to make it really complicated. I don't worry about the small amount of fluid that stays in the ABS pump since I'm changing it so regularly anyway. You can bleed using that pump, but with the exception of the pump itself, you get just as effective a fluid change with a pressure bleeder hooked to the reservoir or the old school pump method.

I don't have the Bmw computer, so I don't think I can do the complicated way, I will try and do the traditional way. Thanks a lot

[PRTSB1M]

Originally Posted by ahtim

I don't have the Bmw computer, so I don't think I can do the complicated way, I will try and do the traditional way. Thanks a lot

Yeah, not everyone is interested in it, but you can find all the software online; you just need a USB to OBD2 cable. I’m sure you can get a great bleed using a pressure bleeder I’m still waiting on my stoptechs, but will most likely use one during the install.

[ahtim]

Originally Posted by PRTSB1M

Yeah, not everyone is interested in it, but you can find all the software online; you just need a USB to OBD2 cable. I’m sure you can get a great bleed using a pressure bleeder I’m still waiting on my stoptechs, but will most likely use one during the install.

Those 16mm nuts are so tight and with limited space it is not easy to take it off ,that's the hardest part, others are easy

[ahtim]

Originally Posted by ahtim

During bed in you can already feel the braking force is so strong, now I think at 50%pedal force is like stock with 100% pedal force

[CarJunkie]

Looks awesome!

Please verify that you put the rotors on the correct sides. The slots on slotted rotors usually rake forward, which is counterintuitive. Make sure that the internal cooling vanes rake backward. I have put slotted rotors on 3 vehicles in the past few years (RX8, stoptech kit on the 1M, and my tow rig) and they all rake forward.

[ayao]

I am having a mild panic attack for OP based on CarJunkie's comment (good eye!)

Dave Zeckhausen explains it well here:
https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6515

AP's website is not that helpful:
https://apracing.com/race-car/brake-...ntilated-discs

Let us know what you find, OP!

[ahtim]

Originally Posted by ayao

I am having a mild panic attack for OP based on CarJunkie's comment (good eye!)

Dave Zeckhausen explains it well here:
https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6515

AP's website is not that helpful:
https://apracing.com/race-car/brake-...ntilated-discs

Let us know what you find, OP!

There is an arrow on the brake disc, so I think it's correct, I am running project mu999 brake pad in the front and mx72 at the rear. I somehow think I need to upgrade my cup2s, it's obviously not grip enough

[CarJunkie]

Originally Posted by ahtim

There is an arrow on the brake disc, so I think it's correct, I am running project mu999 brake pad in the front and mx72 at the rear. I somehow think I need to upgrade my cup2s, it's obviously not grip enough

Phew!

[PRTSB1M]

Originally Posted by ahtim

During bed in you can already feel the braking force is so strong, now I think at 50%pedal force is like stock with 100% pedal force

Looking great What wheel/tire spec are you running here?

[ahtim]

Originally Posted by PRTSB1M

Looking great What wheel/tire spec are you running here?

The wheels should be very obvious, stock size cup2