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      10-22-2013, 06:36 AM   #45
octainejunkee
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Great thread
Can somebody tell me how much these would be in the uk and where i can get them from please?
Cheers Jamie
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      10-22-2013, 07:34 AM   #46
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I have a question: Is it possible to install the e92 Bmw M3's Coilovers on my bmw 1M. These coilovers are the same?
Thanks
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      10-22-2013, 08:54 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo21 View Post
I have a question: Is it possible to install the e92 Bmw M3's Coilovers on my bmw 1M. These coilovers are the same?
Thanks

The answer is yes
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      10-23-2013, 12:45 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octainejunkee View Post
Great thread
Can somebody tell me how much these would be in the uk and where i can get them from please?
Cheers Jamie
Sent you a PM!


Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo21 View Post
I have a question: Is it possible to install the e92 Bmw M3's Coilovers on my bmw 1M. These coilovers are the same?
Thanks
Yes, they will fit. However, you will not follow the recommended settings from the instructions as the 1M weighs much less, but rather use it as a guide.
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      10-24-2013, 11:42 AM   #49
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Thanks for the answer ;-)
Hi devo6!
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      11-28-2013, 03:37 AM   #50
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Hi, i have just mounted the ohlins R/T previously mounted on a bmw m3 E92 in my bmw 1M. But there is a problem: the rear height is too high! More than stock
The Mechanic also said to me that it is impossible to lower the car more.
Rear:


Front:

Last edited by gibbo21; 11-28-2013 at 03:50 AM..
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      12-08-2013, 01:15 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo21 View Post
Hi, i have just mounted the ohlins R/T previously mounted on a bmw m3 E92 in my bmw 1M. But there is a problem: the rear height is too high! More than stock
The Mechanic also said to me that it is impossible to lower the car more.
Rear:


Front:
Very odd. I adjusted the spring perch to the lowest point and my tires were nicely tucked under the fender. You should remove one wheel to verify if your spring perch is maxed out.
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      12-08-2013, 09:32 PM   #52
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Make sure the spring perch was installed correctly.
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      12-11-2013, 10:38 AM   #53
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KW clubsport and ohlins which is sport ?
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      01-17-2014, 12:08 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnite View Post
KW clubsport and ohlins which is sport ?
You will get both a better ride quality and performance with the Ohlins R&T. The DFV is where it's at for a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde personality.
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      02-20-2014, 10:51 PM   #55
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I'm looking at a set of these from an e92, should I worry about gibbo21's pictures? Was his install definitely messed up and i should buy the e92 set with no worries?
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      02-21-2014, 11:51 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo21 View Post
Hi, i have just mounted the ohlins R/T previously mounted on a bmw m3 E92 in my bmw 1M. But there is a problem: the rear height is too high! More than stock
The Mechanic also said to me that it is impossible to lower the car more.
Rear:


Front:
Check if they removed part 10.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...10&hg=33&fg=45
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      02-21-2014, 11:54 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo21 View Post
Hi, i have just mounted the ohlins R/T previously mounted on a bmw m3 E92 in my bmw 1M. But there is a problem: the rear height is too high! More than stock
The Mechanic also said to me that it is impossible to lower the car more.
Rear:


Front:
Check if they removed part 10.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...10&hg=33&fg=45
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      02-21-2014, 11:54 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo21 View Post
Hi, i have just mounted the ohlins R/T previously mounted on a bmw m3 E92 in my bmw 1M. But there is a problem: the rear height is too high! More than stock
The Mechanic also said to me that it is impossible to lower the car more.
Rear:


Front:
Check if they removed part 10.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...10&hg=33&fg=45
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      02-21-2014, 12:55 PM   #59
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There should be enough adjustments to lower your 1M below stock height. Double check your installation to make sure everything was installed properly.
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      03-04-2014, 08:05 AM   #60
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Is there an actual set that says it's for E82 1M on the box. Or are all the sets for E9X M3?
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      03-04-2014, 08:20 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua View Post
Is there an actual set that says it's for E82 1M on the box. Or are all the sets for E9X M3?
Suspect they all say E9x M3.

Neil
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      03-22-2014, 08:29 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
Suspect they all say E9x M3.

Neil
+1 it's an E9X M3 kit.
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      03-31-2014, 12:40 AM   #63
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I finally got my ohlins installed with Vorshlag camber plates. What is the ideal stiffness for a street setup? Im driving on fairly bumpy roads most of the time.

Also should the fronts and rears be same stiffness or the rears slightly stiffer?
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      05-07-2014, 11:57 PM   #64
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Ok,
I have just installed my Ohlins R&T and I have a few questions to anyone who can answer me.
- Usable clicks. There appear to be more than the suggested 20clicks of adjustment. Can I go softer than the twentieth click and will this damage anything or actually continue to adjust the damper?
- Rear Adjuster Extension. I have ordered the extender for the rear adjuster. Can someone please give me a measurement so i know where to cut a hole in my boot liner?
- Orientation of Sway bar bracket. I roughly oriented the front shock so the Ohlins sticker faces out and the dropper link is fairly well aligned with the sway bar. Is there anything more that I should take into consideration here?

Thanks

Toby
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      05-08-2014, 11:20 AM   #65
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Obiwun,
Do you prefer the Ohlins to stock?
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      05-08-2014, 06:01 PM   #66
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Adjustment range:
Based upon memory, I found that the front struts had about 28 clicks or total adjustment and the rear shocks about 36 clicks. During my limited testing, I felt that adjustments beyond the 20 click range from full stiff didn’t cause damage, but they also didn’t work very well. At over 20 clicks it seemed like the Dual Flow Valve might have been too free to move because the dampening was inconsistent. The car was almost under damped for small movements and then abruptly transitioned to normal dampening over larger movements. The transition was not pleasant when entering a corner. I settled on 13 clicks from full stiff for daily driving. Due to the different total range of adjustment front to rear, I think it is very important to base all adjustments relative to full stiff.

Adjuster extensions:
Sorry, I can’t find my notes as to where I drilled the hole in the trunk liner, but I can describe the process. First, I temporarily installed the extensions on the shocks, and then measured the position of extension shaft relative to one of the liner mounting holes on the chassis. I then transferred this measurement to the liner itself starting from the corresponding mounting hole in the liner. Make sure to account for the slight offset in position due to the angle of the extension shaft and the gap between the top of the shock and the bottom of the liner. Fortunately, the extension shaft is flexible so it can compensate for small errors in alignment.

Orientation of sway bar bracket:
You should rotate the strut so that the rod ends on the link are in the center of their range of travel and therefore have maximum range of motion. If the strut is rotated too far in either direction, the rod ends might bind.

Overall, I think the Ohlins were a GREAT upgrade. At 13 clicks from full stiff, the car rides over small bumps (road reflectors) with much less harshness and motion while also feeling much better planted at high speeds. I also like the way it settles much faster from larger bumps and dips without being jarring. That said, it can feel pretty stiff over very large bumps. After the upgrade, the car feels like it is riding on a more expensive and sophisticated suspension. It just feels more refined. I’ve had the chance to compare my car back to back with an almost identical car on the stock suspension, and I’m definitely keeping the Ohlins.
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