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      05-29-2018, 05:51 AM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berns View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 135 View Post
berns, those SPL arms are a nice idea but they only push the bottom of the wheel/tyre out which doesn't really help clearance where it's needed. What's required is for the top of the strut to move even further inboard to provide additional clearance between the tyre and guard/fender lip and bumper tab.
Finding the additional -.7* from the bottom length had barely any effect on clearance. Certainly better than notching the towers.
Sure, the clearance between the tyre and guard/fender may not really be affected and those SPL arms would be fine if staying with 255s or some 265s but moving the strut inboard at the top provides additional clearance for 265s and also allows you to run 285s up front (without a 1M front-end). Just two different options for achieving additional negative camber, dependent on your goals.

I'd still be interested to see how those SPL arms fare over the next 12 months and beyond.
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      05-29-2018, 09:25 AM   #200
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I am dreading dropping the rear subframe again and getting another alignment. Which is why I'm inclined to go with the Eibach bar which I feel will be more manageable with traction than the M3 22mm. I'll see how motivated I am next week.
I am sure you saw the thread where I argued about this elsewhere, but the M3 rear swar bay bushings are DESIGNED to bind. When I had an M3 rear subframe sitting in my driveway I pushed and pulled on the bar adn you could see the bushing clamped on the bar and deflecting internally rather than the bar rotating freely. My entire body weight barely budged the bar 1" and that entire 1" was all bushing deflection. This means the M3 sway bar is active when squatting and not just in roll. Get yourself some aftermarket bushings... I don't think there is a significant % difference between an E92 M3 rear sway and a SOLID Eibach 15mm rear sway. I believe Eibach might even claim their bar is stiffer? I'd ask them for the % difference before you change bars again.


Last edited by bbnks2; 05-29-2018 at 01:46 PM..
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      05-29-2018, 12:23 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
Any E9x M3 rack should work. You'll need to use 135 inner tie rods, outters are the same.
Thank you I got one on order this morning,


OP are you at the hoonigan garage? were is your build break down?? I want to say I've seen you car in the background in a few videos?
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      05-30-2018, 09:41 AM   #202
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Originally Posted by TJ135i View Post
Thank you I got one on order this morning,


OP are you at the hoonigan garage? were is your build break down?? I want to say I've seen you car in the background in a few videos?
Yeah, I’m there often. Those guys are all longtime friends.
We haven’t done a BBD episode because I want the car to be complete for it. Almost there!
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      05-30-2018, 10:30 AM   #203
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Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
I am sure you saw the thread where I argued about this elsewhere, but the M3 rear swar bay bushings are DESIGNED to bind. When I had an M3 rear subframe sitting in my driveway I pushed and pulled on the bar adn you could see the bushing clamped on the bar and deflecting internally rather than the bar rotating freely. My entire body weight barely budged the bar 1" and that entire 1" was all bushing deflection. This means the M3 sway bar is active when squatting and not just in roll. Get yourself some aftermarket bushings... I don't think there is a significant % difference between an E92 M3 rear sway and a SOLID Eibach 15mm rear sway. I believe Eibach might even claim their bar is stiffer? I'd ask them for the % difference before you change bars again.

I'll look into it. Problem with the bushings, even if the bar does bind naturally, is that I'm pretty sure I installed them with the bar in the wrong position. AKA, had to really pull on it to get it to fit correctly. It's not in the right spot / position.
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      06-04-2018, 03:52 PM   #204
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Man... Went out to run Streets of Willow yesterday with Team Topak, and didn't realize Round 2 of Global Time Attack Pro-Am was going on next door at Big Willow. So, I registered for both and played double duty.

Car wasn't too happy, engine / IAT's were through the roof, even with the VRSF 7.5" race core. Time for better ducting and flow to the cooler, and ventilation and better cooling for the engine.

CSF radiator and my custom twin Setrab oil cooler setup worked well. Despite the 107* ambient temps, coolant never went beyond 223* and oil never went past 260*.

First time at streets since it was repaved, haven't been there in 2 years. First time driving the 1 there as well, obviously, and in my total 8 laps there over the day, I put down a best of 1:26.3

Better news, though! I ended up coming away with 1st place in Street RWD class and 1st overall in Street class (rwd, fwd, awd) in GTA on Big Willow! Best time was a 1:34.4. I couldn't improve on my last time, 1:34 flat, but that was done in 75* weather, albiet, on way worse tires. Convinced that in cooler weather on these new BFG Rival S, the car has a 1:30 in it if I sack up a bit more for Turn 1, Turn 2 and 8&9.

Had a friendly battle with spxxx too, who came in just behind with a solid 2nd place finish. Where else can you find 2 135's on the podium? Pretty rad.





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      06-04-2018, 03:58 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berns View Post
Man... Went out to run Streets of Willow yesterday with Team Topak, and didn't realize Round 2 of Global Time Attack Pro-Am was going on next door at Big Willow. So, I registered for both and played double duty.

Car wasn't too happy, engine / IAT's were through the roof, even with the VRSF 7.5" race core. Time for better ducting and flow to the cooler, and ventilation and better cooling for the engine.

CSF radiator and my custom twin Setrab oil cooler setup worked well. Despite the 107* ambient temps, coolant never went beyond 223* and oil never went past 260*.

First time at streets since it was repaved, haven't been there in 2 years. First time driving the 1 there as well, obviously, and in my total 8 laps there over the day, I put down a best of 1:26.3

Better news, though! I ended up coming away with 1st place in Street RWD class and 1st overall in Street class (rwd, fwd, awd) in GTA on Big Willow! Best time was a 1:34.4. I couldn't improve on my last time, 1:34 flat, but that was done in 75* weather, albiet, on way worse tires. Convinced that in cooler weather on these new BFG Rival S, the car has a 1:30 in it if I sack up a bit more for Turn 1, Turn 2 and 8&9.

Had a friendly battle with spxxx too, who came in just behind with a solid 2nd place finish. Where else can you find 2 135's on the podium? Pretty rad.





Good seeing you out there! Wish our cars were functioning better, I think we can both get real close to 1:30 with more than a single hot lap. We need to figure out what's going on with the power reduction. My IATs, oil, water were all looking good. I suspect we both have the same problem and maybe it's related to ambient temp?

Pretty annoying only being able to put down 1-2 hot laps before the power reduction kicks in.

Anyhow congrats dude! You were flyin.
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      06-11-2018, 03:14 AM   #206
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Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
Good seeing you out there! Wish our cars were functioning better, I think we can both get real close to 1:30 with more than a single hot lap. We need to figure out what's going on with the power reduction. My IATs, oil, water were all looking good. I suspect we both have the same problem and maybe it's related to ambient temp?

Pretty annoying only being able to put down 1-2 hot laps before the power reduction kicks in.

Anyhow congrats dude! You were flyin.
You have the same Problems?
Really really odd... Here in Germany we only had Problems because of Water or oil temp getting too high....
What map do you run?
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      07-10-2018, 01:51 PM   #207
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Update time!

As you all know, I tried my best to fit a meaty front tire within the constraints of the stock fenders. I was very successful in that endeavor, won some events and was happy with the car overall. But from the day I got the car, I knew I'd eventually tackle the body, because I just hate the front-end of the non-M e82. So high and narrow. Not for me.

I toyed around with the idea of building my own custom kit, but eventually just said screw it and ordered a 1M front bumper, fenders and associated bits from www.getbmwparts.com
I didn't want to waste the opportunity to finish off the front end completely, so I ordered a Seibon vented BM-style carbon hood as well. I didn't have a scale with me at the body shop, but I can tell you this: the stock hood is absurdly heavy, and the Seibon hood can be lifted with one hand. As much as I love carbon fiber, I didn't want any of it visible on this car, so I painted the whole thing and finished it off with AeroCatch hood pins for added security and style points.

I can't thank my buddy Ivan at Strassesport enough. Everything came out perfectly. If you're in So Cal and need body work, give him a call.

Timing is always stupid, and I'm an idiot, so I decided to get the car together just in time to load it on a trailer and take it to Laguna Seca for Bimmer Challenge with Speed Ventures. It was an awesome weekend, as it always is with the SV dudes. I haven't run any of the Bimmer Challenge events this year, but wanted to see how I stacked up against the others in B3 class and might try to finish off the season with them. I think I'll try to run the full season next year and keep the car in B3 class, or maybe move into B2 if I get Aero.





























It's a bummer Bimmer Challenge doesn't count your last session. Awards happened after the 3rd session. Despite the fact that I ended up in 5th place with a 1:44.681, I probably had the best driving session of my life in that 3rd session. No limp mode, no CEL, perfect temps for 12 laps straight, chasing some properly sorted E46 M3s, and E90 M3 and a McLaren. I wish I was recording for this session, but that's how it always goes.

Session 5, I was able to improve with no traffic and less sideways action, and ran a 1:42.9. The following morning, despite the track being cold, damp and super slippery, I put down a 1:42.49

This video is from a 1:42.88 with traffic:


Fun drift moment onto the straight:


A little sideways action in the corkscrew:

Last edited by berns; 07-10-2018 at 02:06 PM..
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      07-10-2018, 03:39 PM   #208
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Damn! That drift looked awesome! Love the hood I want to do. The same thing except leave the bump carbon but paint match the rest. Anywho great build and documentation bro
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      07-10-2018, 04:20 PM   #209
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So is limp mode just something you all have to deal with at the track? There is no way to reprogram the ECU to ignore the stock temp values (or whichever values it's looking to restrict power) since you all are monitoring it? It's really great to see both you and spxxx out there. It really does help when there is another one out there pushing you; esp. when it's the same platform.

Maybe time to break out the gold foil tape and dry ice.
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      07-10-2018, 04:42 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrahams View Post
So is limp mode just something you all have to deal with at the track? There is no way to reprogram the ECU to ignore the stock temp values (or whichever values it's looking to restrict power) since you all are monitoring it? It's really great to see both you and spxxx out there. It really does help when there is another one out there pushing you; esp. when it's the same platform.

Maybe time to break out the gold foil tape and dry ice.
Whatever was going on in the 110* heat a few weeks ago, causing both our cars to lose power, I'm not 100% sure. My most educated guess would be IAT's.

I'm dealing with some other issues right now, unrelated to temperature.
Oil and Water temps are looking amazing with the CSF radiator paired with my custom twin oil cooler setup.

I've got a faulty LPFP sensor, throwing a 2AAF code for that so who knows what the ECU is asking for with no reading.
Also have a 30FF that won't go away
2E9F - oil condition sensor
2F8F - accelerator pedal module and brake pedal...

Going to take some time to sort all these things out before I go out again. You can see the CEL on in that Turn 11 Drift vid above. It'll usually come on at high RPM out of nowhere and I feel a definite loss of power. Not full limp mode, but definitely down.
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      07-10-2018, 05:04 PM   #211
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The 30FF/FE codes are definitely annoying. I would notice it on tracks with decent elevation changes; it turns out my waste gate would get hung up and stuck, either open or closed, giving me 30FF and 30FE intermittently. New turbos solved it.
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      07-10-2018, 05:13 PM   #212
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What wheel/tire specs are you at now with the 1M front kit?
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      07-10-2018, 05:23 PM   #213
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What wheel/tire specs are you at now with the 1M front kit?
18x9.5 +22 front
18x9.5 + 58 rear
275/35/18 BFG Rival S front and rear
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      07-11-2018, 02:00 AM   #214
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My heat issues have actually been resolved for the most part (water pump was acting up with the OTS MHD tunes) I really need to build myself a better tune... I'm also seeing the limits of the 34 row cooler due to, what I believe, is an airflow problem. May have to run another core on the driver side or optimize flow to the core that I built (it's ghetto so airflow is a major problem)

Of course I'm now running into misfire issues but a new set of injectors should solve that problem, I will probably just be dumb and spend the money on OEM injectors and some fresh RE71Rs or rivals for the rest of the season.
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      07-11-2018, 02:38 AM   #215
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Originally Posted by berns View Post
Whatever was going on in the 110* heat a few weeks ago, causing both our cars to lose power, I'm not 100% sure. My most educated guess would be IAT's.

I'm dealing with some other issues right now, unrelated to temperature.
Oil and Water temps are looking amazing with the CSF radiator paired with my custom twin oil cooler setup.

I've got a faulty LPFP sensor, throwing a 2AAF code for that so who knows what the ECU is asking for with no reading.
Also have a 30FF that won't go away
2E9F - oil condition sensor
2F8F - accelerator pedal module and brake pedal...

Going to take some time to sort all these things out before I go out again. You can see the CEL on in that Turn 11 Drift vid above. It'll usually come on at high RPM out of nowhere and I feel a definite loss of power. Not full limp mode, but definitely down.
Did you try a MHD OTS Map ?

I told you your sensor is shot :-). And the CELīs you are getting is because of your tune at least if it is still the same like shown in your logs.

I donīt understand why you have so much Problems on the track, i only run a small setrab core behind the bumper with the OEM cooler in row. Besides that the car is Stock. And i didnt ever had a CEL because of temperatures...

And i know quite a lot N54 Cars which get driven on Different tracks here in Germany.

What will you do with your rear? Do you know you do all the things i also want to do :-D?
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      07-11-2018, 11:44 AM   #216
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Originally Posted by frontside0815 View Post
Did you try a MHD OTS Map ?

I told you your sensor is shot :-). And the CELīs you are getting is because of your tune at least if it is still the same like shown in your logs.

I donīt understand why you have so much Problems on the track, i only run a small setrab core behind the bumper with the OEM cooler in row. Besides that the car is Stock. And i didnt ever had a CEL because of temperatures...

And i know quite a lot N54 Cars which get driven on Different tracks here in Germany.

What will you do with your rear? Do you know you do all the things i also want to do :-D?
You keep forgetting we live in a very hot climate. Every car out on a track here has to take drastic measures to ensure the cooling system is overkill.
I don't have a temperature issue right now.
I did switch to the MHD Stage 2 OTS map. I haven't taken any logs but all the same problems showed up.
I didn't have time to replace the LPFP sensor before heading back out but I'll take care of it this week and go from there. I believe my boost is way below target, still, but I don't see or hear any visible leaks. All the vac lines are brand new and the intercooler doesn't have many connections. They are all super tight.
We'll see how it goes.

I will either do a 1M rear bumper, sideskirts and rear arches, or do something a little more custom for the rear fenders and keep the factory bumper and sideskirts.
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      07-12-2018, 09:37 AM   #217
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Quote:
Going to take some time to sort all these things out before I go out again. You can see the CEL on in that Turn 11 Drift vid above. It'll usually come on at high RPM out of nowhere and I feel a definite loss of power. Not full limp mode, but definitely down.
Have you had the car on a dyno to see if you can replicate it and log some data?
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      07-16-2018, 03:59 PM   #218
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Beautiful track car!

What 1M front splitter is that?
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      07-17-2018, 08:42 AM   #219
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First off I absolutely love your build!!! I saw you car for the first time on a Hoonigan episode and have been following you ever since. When I first purchased my car I put a list together of what I planned on doing and it is basically item for item of what you have done to your car!!! I believe certain cars are produced to be driven and especially track driven!! especially this one!! Also thank you for being so informative. Because of builds like yours a guy like me will be able to get it right the first time!! Also please keep the videos coming!!!
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      07-18-2018, 06:32 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrahams View Post
Have you had the car on a dyno to see if you can replicate it and log some data?
Not yet. There are some things I'd like to do before I get on the dyno to chase down issues and finally dial in a good flex fuel tune.
  • LPFP sensor was bad, I just replaced it and finally have LPFP pressure readings on MHD. Who knows what a flatlined 50psi was telling the ECU to do.
  • I need to install my Fuel-It! upgraded fuel line and ethanol content analyzer
  • Also need to install the Motiv Flex Fuel Box
  • Time for a major boost leak test to rule this out and make sure everything is tight. I'm tired of the 30FF code ruining my laps. If it's not a leak, then I'll replace the overpriced wastegate solenoids.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sliiiiick View Post
Beautiful track car!

What 1M front splitter is that?
Thanks! It's an ebay lip. Wasn't about to spend $600+ on something I'll likely destroy. This will do for now, and it should be good for mounting the full carbon splitter on a flat surface later down the line. I'll either fill those holes or run proper brake ducts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by triggergt View Post
First off I absolutely love your build!!! I saw you car for the first time on a Hoonigan episode and have been following you ever since. When I first purchased my car I put a list together of what I planned on doing and it is basically item for item of what you have done to your car!!! I believe certain cars are produced to be driven and especially track driven!! especially this one!! Also thank you for being so informative. Because of builds like yours a guy like me will be able to get it right the first time!! Also please keep the videos coming!!!
Thanks for all the good words, dude! Stoked you've been following along and enjoying the build. I'm happy to be as informative as I can be. Full disclosure -- I'm not a professional mechanic or engineer, these are just the parts I've chosen after trying to build the perfect car for me.

I can't get over this thing. I'm in love with the front end. Wish I could say I was done, but I can't stop thinking about widening the rear and removing the sunroof...


Last edited by berns; 07-18-2018 at 06:41 PM..
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