Loose Nuts

[ejm3]

Originally Posted by BikeNHV

I'm still stumped that it's specific to a corner, even though you've tried multiple wheels on that same corner. I'm worried that you'll be disappointed with the result after buying 1 new steel wheel.

That’s exactly my concern too. The wheel is $100 plus TPM is $158 then I need to get it mounted and balanced.

If that doesn’t solve the problem I’ll be annoyed.

I might just put the summer tires back on and just take it out once a week on a nice day for the winter.

[NorthernDancer]

I agree with you to put summers back on and see what happens. Without reading all posts, I think you have put a different steel wheel there and problem is same with a different wheel. So now [as already mentioned] we have to look at rotor and hub for something, dirt, rust, mis-alignment. And, BTW I use anti-seize on all my cars but just a very thin coat brushed on with an old tooth brush.
NOW, with summers on and no longer a problem, we can eliminate rotor/hub and we're back to square 1. Good luck & keep us posted.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Another thought, is each wheel assigned a corner (i.e. tires are directional and wheels are different widths)? Or are they truly swappable as in all wheels the same size and tires not directional? If each wheel is assigned a corner at the moment, you could try swapping them around. At least left / right sides. It's OK to run treads backwards for a while, it's not ideal but it won't make you crash or anything. See if it stays at that corner or moves with the wheel itself. Might help narrow it down.

Did you see this or do this? I'll suggest it again especially before you buy any new wheels.

[ejm3]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Did you see this or do this? I'll suggest it again especially before you buy any new wheels.

Yes the blizzaks are unidirectional.

So when I take them off in the spring I mark where they came from.
Then next fall all I do is move them from front to rear to even out wear but I keep them on the same side of the car to the direction is still correct.

Unlike the factory summer tires the blizzaks are same size all around.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by ejm3

Yes the blizzaks are unidirectional.

So when I take them off in the spring I mark where they came from.
Then next fall all I do is move them from front to rear to even out wear but I keep them on the same side of the car to the direction is still correct.

Unlike the factory summer tires the blizzaks are same size all around.

Cool, so - sounds like it is NOT the wheel then as you mentioned. Just wanted to be sure. My summer tires for example have a corner they live at, and don't really swap well. I could do L / R and have the tread "backwards" for a while but generally the come off and go back to the same spot ever year.

You might still swap your F / R again, or L / R temporarily, to be 100% sure, but.... sounds like you already have. And given that I'd say do not bother getting a new steel wheel.

Are they in need of hubcentric spacers or a direct perfect fit? Often aftermarket wheels have oversized bores and need these rings to get a correct fit. Ensures they are installed correctly and not off center. I could see that becoming a loose wheel or even simply feeling like one.

Also I'm sure you've said it but to be 100%, when you tighten the bolts, you are indeed actually turning them until snug, and they were not at first? Is it with a torque wrench? Ever considered marking the individual bolts to see if it's just 1 or 2 of them doing it and the rest are OK? Or is it all 5?

Just throwing out some more ideas, hope it helps.

[WDE82]

I was hoping the link for the wheels would show the hub diameter but it didn't.

As far as sides, the tires should have "outside" written somewhere on them to correspond to the side they go on.

Check your wheels and make sure a tire isn't mounted backward. That would mean if the tire was right side out on that wheel, the wheel would be backward and not mount correctly. That's totally possible on steel wheels.

[Lester]

Another option to try, convert to studs with lug nuts. These are available for racing wheels. This may provide a fix. Then when you swap back to summer tires, but the lug bolts back in. The problem could be caused by the lug bolt curved taper shoulder on the BMW setup not exactly matching the steel wheel which might be designed for a regular taper.

[tracer bullet]

^^^ Good point, the nuts are shaped to the wheels, and could be mismatched. There aren't a ton of shapes but there are a few.

[ejm3]

I got the car back today and the best they could determine is that the factory lugs are made for wheels that have tapered lug holes, as the factory wheels do.

They say these steel wheels have basically just holes in them not tapered and the bolts come loose.

So maybe I need some different bolts that don’t need tapered holes?

Anyway I drove it home (maybe 5 miles) and they didn’t come loose but who knows.

[NorthernDancer]

Well I don't buy the answer. Why only 1 when the other 3 are OK. I would keep a lug nut wrench in the car and check those bolts after every drive. I would also call The Tire Rack and explain to them the issue. I wouldn't be surprised that they might send you a new steel wheel at no charge. There just might be a manufacturing defect in that 1 wheel that no one can see.

[SamelCamel]

Good luck in finding flat seat replacement lug bolts that will fit a BMW. That seems like an odd fit. You might be able to get better luck with ball seat lug bolts. Those are easier to find and may provide enough grip to stop them from backing out.

Happy New Year!

-Sam

[WDE82]

You could buy this BMW part number steelie instead. It would definitely have the right hub centric dimensions and lug bolt holes.

36111095013

Wait nvm probably wont clear 135i brakes...

[Lester]

Those are only 16" wheels, but the price is good $100 for four.

The OP has 17".

[tracer bullet]

I'd get hold of Tire Rack and see what bolts they recommend to use. Probably going to be more round shaped versus conical. NorthernDancer may be right but on the other hand I kinda do believe the wrong bolts could back out. The right kind of flexing of the wheel under them could be an issue.

If they sold the wheels in theory they'd better know how to hold them on.

Might need something along this line:

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

(Not an actual link to buy just an example)

[ejm3]

Officially Tire Rack says to use the factory bolts.
What do you mean by hub-centric?

Also I never go anywhere without a lug wrench.

[tracer bullet]

Picture example: https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-s094...906859.jpg?c=2

Basically the wheel bore is bigger than the spot on the car itself, and you use an adapting ring to get a good fit. Otherwise the wheel isn't quite centered when it's installed.

If you remove a bolt, can you tell if there's a shape at all on the wheel itself under them. I.e. is it a thin piece of flat metal, does it have a cone shape, a round bowl shape? If it's a bowl shape I'd day Tire Rack is wrong, and you should try finding rounded bolts like linked earlier. If it's cone shaped, then... you probably do use factory. If it's flat I just don't know.

I can see a scenario where's there's little friction of the bolt to the wheel and so the bolt backs off especially if the wheel flexes at all.

Crappy answer because $$$ but maybe just get different wheels?

[BikeNHV]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Crappy answer because $$$ but maybe just get different wheels?

Unfortunately I was thinking this too...a cheap set of 17" stock wheels that will clear your brakes may be your best bet. May be able to find a set for sale on the forum that already have the TPMS in them.

[ejm3]

Thanks.
A couple considerations...
I’ve had these wheels and tire for like 6 winters now.
They have decent tread left because I don’t drive it much in the winter. Honestly it doesn’t go out the the snow or rain.

And second I am working from home now (I had a 75-mile round trip) so if I continue to have issues I might just put the summer tires back on and for the winter just take it out here and there when the weather is nice.

It’s still annoying though.

Edit:
Yesterday was a pretty nice day (at least for January in CT) and I drove it around with the steel wheels on.
It seemed ok so new plan is to just drive it until the bolts loosen again then switch back to summer wheels & tires.

[Tommm]

Go on the list of Craig and find a set of used alloy wheels from a BMW. Just make sure the offset is correct. Mount your tires and sensors on the alloy wheels and dump the ugly steel wheels.

Here are two links to sites with wheel specs
https://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/in...ting_chart/bmw
https://www.auto-treff.com/wcf/index.php?article-list/

https://newlondon.craigslist.org/sea...bmw&srchType=T