135i rear calipers for 128i

[johanrl]

I know is been discuss before, but i can't find any older threads with the info. What is need to have funcitonal rear 135i brakes on the 128i. Only switching because i got a great deal and did install the fronts but know want to do rear.

[Jeb_]

Bump because I'm currently looking into this as well. Only I'm looking to install rear brakes from an F30 335i.

As far as I can tell it's the same issue with parking brake location/size when going from a *28i car to a *35i car over the past couple generations. From what I've been reading, the only way to get the parking brake to work on an 128i when installing 135i brakes looks to be by swapping out the hubs with ones from an 135i as well. I'm not sure what all is involved with that swap.

[Kerbouchard]

Just came to find the same answer actually. Have a full set of 135i calipers waiting to go on pending a solution here. Anyone found a shop who would fab up custom parking brake shoes to fit? Alternatively can someone please link the DIY for the hub swap?

[One28i]

I am on the similar thought process. I was planning on doing a complete F30 brake swap with 340mm rotor 4 piston fronts and 345mm rotor 2 piston rears, to learn that the rears don't fit as a direct swap. I was thinking of getting the E82 135i rear calipers and install those, but have not confirmed that that it is a direct fit either. on the F30 swap for the rears, the spacing and hole size was off, see the links below, of what has been done. also what complicates the process, is our rear hub on 128i is different from 135i and rest of E9X from my readings...

https://1.***********.com/threads/e8...-kit-f-r.2540/

https://babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic....10449&start=15

https://babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=76490
this guy used E39M5 rotors...

some from the E9X sections

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1030156

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...828362&page=76

I am still looking for the full proof method before I buy all my bits and pieces.

let the discussion continue

[johanrl]

Now I'm wondering if the e39 m5 rotors will fit 128i shoes. I know there is a guys here that did use a f30 328i rear rotors which fit over 128i shoes but need it to shave about 15mm due to the rotors being 345mm.

[Jeb_]

Originally Posted by One28i

I am on the similar thought process. I was planning on doing a complete F30 brake swap with 340mm rotor 4 piston fronts and 345mm rotor 2 piston rears, to learn that the rears don't fit as a direct swap. I was thinking of getting the E82 135i rear calipers and install those, but have not confirmed that that it is a direct fit either. on the F30 swap for the rears, the spacing and hole size was off, see the links below, of what has been done. also what complicates the process, is our rear hub on 128i is different from 135i and rest of E9X from my readings...

I followed that same chain of threads and discovered that getting the rear f30 335i brakes to work was going to be more difficult than I originally anticipated.

From another thread on here: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=886475

I decided to go with the rear 135i brakes. I want to keep the e-brake but I prefer not to go through making the hybrid shoes by cutting and welding the 128i and 135i ones together. I'm going to try what was mentioned with swapping to 135i supporting plates and e46 M3 shoes.

I ordered the e-brake parts. Now I just need rotors and rear calipers before I can give this a try.

[johanrl]

Originally Posted by Jeb_

I followed that same chain of threads and discovered that getting the rear f30 335i brakes to work was going to be more difficult than I originally anticipated.

From another thread on here: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=886475

I decided to go with the rear 135i brakes. I want to keep the e-brake but I prefer not to go through making the hybrid shoes by cutting and welding the 128i and 135i ones together. I'm going to try what was mentioned with swapping to 135i supporting plates and e46 M3 shoes.

I ordered the e-brake parts. Now I just need rotors and rear calipers before I can give this a try.

Could you elaborate on the 135i plates and e46 m3 shoes option. Thx

[Jeb_]

Sure thing.

From what I've been reading, it looks like the most common way (or at least the way I found best documented) to get the parking brake to work when swapping 128i rears for 135i ones is to:
- Remove the friction material from the 128i shoes
- Cut 135i shoes in a way that the part with the friction material has a radius that will match up with the outer radius of the 128i shoe
- Weld the two pieces together

Which will allow shoe contact with the inner barrel of 135i rotors without needing to swap any other parts. However, I don't have a welder and would prefer not to go the full "custom" route.

I have seen it mentioned once or twice that there is another option that doesn't require welding a hybrid shoe together, but it's not nearly as well documented. As far as I can tell it involves:
- Swapping the 128i e-brake shoe supporting plates (34216771429) for the 135i part (34216771430)
- Replacing the 128i shoes with ones from an E46 M3 (34416761293).

Supposedly you'll need to file away some material on the shoes to get the catch points to line up with the original 128i components. And it's possible the width of the shoes will need ground down some if there's a step on the inner barrel of the 135i rotors.

I now just need rotors and I'll have everything I need. But realistically it's going to be a month or two before I have the time to be able to say whether this works or not.

[lovethe1]

Hello all,

I did this swap a few years ago. For a proper rear swap you need
135i knuckles and axles.

[Jeb_]

Finally got around to trying to fit the 135i rear brakes. Figured I'd post what I learned here.

After doing some research my original plan was to try 135i backing plates with the shoes from an e46 m3. I had read on one of the many threads out there on this topic that maybe that would work. It doesn't. After having the parts and taking the rear rotor off it can be seen that:
- The boss for the 135i hub is larger than that of a 128i. Because of this, the inner diameter of the 135i backing plates would not contact and be located by the hub boss on the 128i. It also causes the bolt circle to mount the 135i backing plate to be larger than the 128i part.
-The surfaces on the 128i knuckle that the backing plate mounts to drop off pretty much right outside of the diameter of the screw heads. I haven't measured accurately to know for sure, but I don't think it would be an option to fill in the existing threads and re-drill the threads to line up with the 135i backing plates. Even if it was possible, I'd be worried about not getting the 135i backing plate concentric with the 128i hub.

Discovering this, the route I have decided to take is the proven method of swapping the knuckles and axles from a pre-LCI automatic 135i that had the type 188L differential. I believe the knuckles from any 135i (or e9x 3-series possibly?) are a direct swap. However, the axles must be from a car that also had the 188L differential so that they will bolt up to the 128i diff. They probably can be found from any salvage yard for cheaper, but I got mine off of ebay. They were about $240 each and came with the knuckle, hub, axle, rotor, full e-brake assembly, and all of the arms.

[johanrl]

you can also use 328 auto axle with the 135i knuckle and hub carrier

[chris_flies]

I suppose it can't be this easy, but can you just use 128i axles in the 135i hubs?

The splines are probably different, aren't they?

[Jeb_]

Question for those of you that have swapped to 135i knuckles. Did you have to do any coding for the wheel speed sensors?

I got everything buttoned up the other day but I'm getting a brake and ESC light. I swapped out the sensors for 135i ones when I did the swap, but it seems that the ESC is unhappy because the wheel speed measured at the 135i encoder ring doesn't match up with what it expects.

[Jeb_]

Got it covered. The shop I was having do an alignment and code for performance brakes found an option for the 135i hubs to code in.

[Jeb_]

Well after the I swapped the knuckles and sensors, as soon as I pulled out of the driveway for a shake down drive I got the warning lights. Scanned the car, and I forget the exact codes, but it was showing low brake fluid (old code from an INPA bleed) and both RR and LR wheel speed reading high. I cleared the codes and the wheel speed ones came back seconds after I started driving again.

I've driven about 100 miles since the shop and no lights yet.

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

After you installed the hubs the alignment was so bad that the wheels were spinning at different rates and the computer threw a code. When I did mine it was practically crabbing sideways and I got 2 or three DCS codes about wheel rates and such. I just went up the street a half a block to settle the suspension a bit before I aligned it, but that was enough. Pulled back into the garage, did a full alignment (I has also installed an M3 steering rack) and all codes went away.

I'll give your guys a pass as maybe they think they coded out the problem.

But, no. It was the alignment that fixed it.

Hello,

I allow myself to react to this post because I have a similar problem that I can't seem to solve.

I installed a full 135i rear axle a while ago on my 125i. From time to time I have the DSC lighting up on the dashboard.
So I looked at what was happening under INPA and the surprise I see that my rear wheels are turning the wrong way!

Rueckwaerts --> Backward

Vorwaerts --> Frontward

however the wheel speed are OK on the x4 wheels.

The sensors are those of the 135i. Voila, I am a little annoyed because I do not know what to do ...

I tried to reverse the wires in the connector... but it does not work, the sensor goes into default. for information I add the SPBR option code.

Is it possible to code anything in the DSC maybe?


Thanks for your help.

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by Jeb_

Got it covered. The shop I was having do an alignment and code for performance brakes found an option for the 135i hubs to code in.

Coud you please tell us what option has been coding? I fear having the same problem as you.

Thanks a lot

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

I'm fairly new to INPA so I'm no hope there, but I'll repeat it again: There's no coding needed to put the 135i/larger hubs on. As far as wheel speed direction, the wheel bearing has a pulse generator built in to it. It has no clue what direction the wheel is spinning, nor does the wheel speed sensor. Both the wheel speed sensors and the bearings fit on both sides of the vehicle and are therefore not directional.

Maybe if the DCS light is lighting up you're just having too much fun I'm mean, does it just flash, or does it stay on and you have to clear an error code.

Thanks for your answer.

"Both the wheel speed sensors and the bearings fit on both sides of the vehicle and are therefore not directional."

you are correct it is the first thing that i have checking.

however when i drive, front wheel sensors are indicate the good direction and rear ones the wrong...

The DSC light ususally just flash, but i had on permanent too with an error.

005DA6 front sensor indicate wrong direction of rotation.

one more thing, i have fitted M2 knuckles.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...4#post26157994

i don't know if there is a link or not? is it possible that the front sensors can modify the reading sens of rotation of the rear sensors???

I am going to try to make a DSC reset with ISTA-D, maybe it will help.

thanks

So i have calibrated the DSC with ISTA but without sucess

there is always a different sens of rotation displayed between front & rear wheeel sensors.

[Jeb_]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

After you installed the hubs the alignment was so bad that the wheels were spinning at different rates and the computer threw a code. When I did mine it was practically crabbing sideways and I got 2 or three DCS codes about wheel rates and such. I just went up the street a half a block to settle the suspension a bit before I aligned it, but that was enough. Pulled back into the garage, did a full alignment (I has also installed an M3 steering rack) and all codes went away.

I'll give your guys a pass as maybe they think they coded out the problem.

But, no. It was the alignment that fixed it.

That makes sense and I do believe that you didn't have to do any coding. I'm just not 100% sure that was what was going on in my case yet. I didn't notice any difference in how the car was tracking after swapping the knuckles. Not that that means the alignment didn't change at all, but
however it did change was either very minor, or a large difference mirrored left to right left it feeling minor.

Could be influenced by tires I suppose. When I switched back to summer tires I had them remounted and then I rotated front to back so that could be causing a difference in wheel speed front to back that when then combined with even a small change in alignment could bring the wheel speeds out of tolerance.

[Jeb_]

Originally Posted by ornicar

Coud you please tell us what option has been coding? I fear having the same problem as you.

Thanks a lot

I'll be talking with the guys at the shop again later in the week so I'll get more specifics on what coding they did exactly.

[ornicar]

Great! thanks a lot for your feedback.

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

That's normal.




I did too, but I cleared the code and aligned the car and now all's good.



Nothing about this makes me think that you have a problem with your 135i rear hub conversion.

OK, thanks for your answer,

i am lost.

you are probably correct, the root cause have to be in the front because my 135i rear axle swap was Plug & play.