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      09-27-2018, 09:47 AM   #23
bbnks2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo135i View Post
Any half competent BMW tech knows about this relatively common issue and should know what to do if the belt shreds.

Doesn't sound like he is dealing with one...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo135i View Post
Also I do not understand why they would replace an oil pan gasket and not the leaking oil filter housing first, as the oil filter housing is a much more obvious and critical leak. Not to mention when it leaks badly enough oil makes its way around the seam of the oil pan and makes it look like it’s leaking when in fact it may not be.
They probably just assumed the oil leak was the pan. If they aren't that familiar with these cars then they wouldn't know about the OFHG leak and how the oil wicks down the entire side of the motor making it look like a rear main seal or oil pan leak...

If they snapped the drive belt then the front main seal should be checked. There is no way an OFHG replacement caused spun bearings unless they pinched the gasket cause fluids to mix. I think you would be able to spot coolant in oil pretty easily though... Might be time to lawyer up. Sound like they already tore the engine down so you won't be able to see the front main seal for yourself... or, the fluids they took out.
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      10-19-2018, 02:36 PM   #24
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Turns out it is a crank bearing. They recommend at this point a new or used engine. They quoted me 11k for a used engine and labor 3k of that is labor for swap. Decided to look at engine shops.

I got with a company out of houston called MMP after doing some searching. 5K for them to rebuild the engine with shipping back and forth from dallas. Also going to get a new turbo since the engine will be out. Requested a loan for 9k and starting the process if I get approved.

Here's a link to the engine shop. Wish me luck!

https://mmp-e.com/collections/produc...engine-program
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      10-20-2018, 06:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
I did my OFHG about one month ago. Had this thread been up then, I might not have done the job myself.

Anyway, all went well.

In general, one can pull the fuses for low and high pressure fuel pumps then crank the car. This will get the oil pump and all mechanicals spinning and send oil through the block. However, the one response from a tech, above, says the problem is due to an air bubble and cavitation that will not clear the pump. That's a bigger problem.
Same!! this is scary, I literally just popped it off put the new gasket in and popped it back on and went on with life
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      10-23-2018, 01:03 PM   #26
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Decided to add a stage Pure Stage 1 rebuild and a Burger Race intercooler to the build because... I'm already down the rabbit hole. Got the financing yesterday. Here we go!

http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_135_...tercooler.html

https://www.pureturbos.com/store/bmw...o-upgrade.html
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      02-17-2019, 09:15 PM   #27
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Same thing happened to me last week. Brought my '11 x5 to get Valve cover gasket and OFHG changed and when they went out for a test drive they said the motor stopped and wouldn't start/the starter will no turn over the engine. They then towed it to the shop and removed the oil filter and there were metal filings in the oil (to me it didn't seem like a lot, but I'm not sure) they then opened my old oil filter and there were filings in that one also (seemed to be less filings than in the new one). They are saying that there two possibilities for this failure.
1. At some point my car ran low on oil.

2. There was some sort of carbon build up on the springs inside the valve cover and when the oil change was done the detergent washed it loose and this "carbon" clogged an oil port somewhere.

I should mention that I had just purchased the vehicle on
Dec 06 2018 and I only ran less than 6000km(3500 miles). So as far as whether proper oil changes were done in the past I do not know.

The shop/ mechanics claim no responsibility.
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      03-03-2019, 12:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guslealisla View Post
Turns out it is a crank bearing. They recommend at this point a new or used engine. They quoted me 11k for a used engine and labor 3k of that is labor for swap. Decided to look at engine shops.

I got with a company out of houston called MMP after doing some searching. 5K for them to rebuild the engine with shipping back and forth from dallas. Also going to get a new turbo since the engine will be out. Requested a loan for 9k and starting the process if I get approved.

Here's a link to the engine shop. Wish me luck!

https://mmp-e.com/collections/produc...engine-program
I wouldn't do this. Sometimes you have to take losses in life. If you don't, it'll cost you more in the long run.

First, you should see what you can get out of this shop. It may be worth a couple of dollars to get the opinion of an attorney. Short of that, junk it or part it out.
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      04-26-2019, 10:11 PM   #29
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This all seems to speak more of shops and dealerships. I replaced my valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft and it wasn't that hard at all. the special tools needed were more annoying than anything, mostly because I wish I could just rent them for the afternoon or get a loaner.

I replaced my oil pressure sensor on top of the OFH last night, took all of 2 mins. with plans to do the OFHG gaskets and clean the intake valves when I remove the intake manifold. Figure 3 hours, and then I see so many OFHG stories, and I just was like WUUUUTTTTT.....

Short of coolant not being drained then flowing into the oil passage and washing oil off bottom end bearings and being left to sit on them and or corrode them enough to create a rough edge, this was inconceivable.

Or debris being knocked into the coolant passages because it wasn't cleaned thoroughly before OFH removal..

And an air bubble in the oil passages!? if the oil pump has oil to draw in, it's going to push oil through every passage that isn't blocked.

These things don't just happen in a sealed system.

I'd never ever ever trust a shop that had a motor "fail" on them and they started investigating before being given permission to go ahead to turn a single bolt on it. That wreaks of stink.

Having dealerships forgot to put motor mount bolts in, and leave tools in cabin filter trays, and leave bolts finger loose


Sidenote - Does anyone know a place to borrow/rent the tools to remove/install the exhuast cam to do the cam seals for the VANOS gear adjusters?


guslealisla - what was the final outcome, Did you get a solid new motor put in?
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      05-03-2019, 02:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallicia View Post
This all seems to speak more of shops and dealerships. I replaced my valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft and it wasn't that hard at all. the special tools needed were more annoying than anything, mostly because I wish I could just rent them for the afternoon or get a loaner.

I replaced my oil pressure sensor on top of the OFH last night, took all of 2 mins. with plans to do the OFHG gaskets and clean the intake valves when I remove the intake manifold. Figure 3 hours, and then I see so many OFHG stories, and I just was like WUUUUTTTTT.....

Short of coolant not being drained then flowing into the oil passage and washing oil off bottom end bearings and being left to sit on them and or corrode them enough to create a rough edge, this was inconceivable.

Or debris being knocked into the coolant passages because it wasn't cleaned thoroughly before OFH removal..

And an air bubble in the oil passages!? if the oil pump has oil to draw in, it's going to push oil through every passage that isn't blocked.

These things don't just happen in a sealed system.

I'd never ever ever trust a shop that had a motor "fail" on them and they started investigating before being given permission to go ahead to turn a single bolt on it. That wreaks of stink.

Having dealerships forgot to put motor mount bolts in, and leave tools in cabin filter trays, and leave bolts finger loose


Sidenote - Does anyone know a place to borrow/rent the tools to remove/install the exhuast cam to do the cam seals for the VANOS gear adjusters?


guslealisla - what was the final outcome, Did you get a solid new motor put in?
funny you say that when the dealer replaced my transmission they left my motor mounts attached to the notor but not my frame, had me chasing what i thought to be suspension issues for months!!
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      05-03-2019, 03:22 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallicia View Post
Sidenote - Does anyone know a place to borrow/rent the tools to remove/install the exhuast cam to do the cam seals for the VANOS gear adjusters?
N55 shouldn't need to look at this since the rings should be Teflon. At least my 12/2010 build date N55 already had the new style Teflon seals... realoem also shows the Teflon part number for my car.
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      05-26-2019, 03:40 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
N55 shouldn't need to look at this since the rings should be Teflon. At least my 12/2010 build date N55 already had the new style Teflon seals... realoem also shows the Teflon part number for my car.
I think I have the teflon rings as well. I

t ended up being the exhuast solenoid. Swapping back to an old BMW spare solenoid I had on hand and now it's running great. Might have been something in the oil passage or an inner o ring seal on the solenoid, but she's acting right now.
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      07-14-2019, 03:26 PM   #33
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Exact same issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitram22 View Post
Same thing happened to me last week. Brought my '11 x5 to get Valve cover gasket and OFHG changed and when they went out for a test drive they said the motor stopped and wouldn't start/the starter will no turn over the engine. They then towed it to the shop and removed the oil filter and there were metal filings in the oil (to me it didn't seem like a lot, but I'm not sure) they then opened my old oil filter and there were filings in that one also (seemed to be less filings than in the new one). They are saying that there two possibilities for this failure.
1. At some point my car ran low on oil.

2. There was some sort of carbon build up on the springs inside the valve cover and when the oil change was done the detergent washed it loose and this "carbon" clogged an oil port somewhere.

I should mention that I had just purchased the vehicle on
Dec 06 2018 and I only ran less than 6000km(3500 miles). So as far as whether proper oil changes were done in the past I do not know.

The shop/ mechanics claim no responsibility.
2011 X5 35I with 95k had been serviced at authorized dealer to replace Valve cover. They had test drive and locked up the motor.
It seems so many vehicle have had same issues. Since this cases are related to serious safety issues, I hope NHTSA will understand number of cases building up. Then BMW NA may consider campaign, recall or extension of warranty period.
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      07-15-2019, 03:47 AM   #34
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Did the OP seriously ignore everyone in this thread and let the shop screw him over? Don't tell me the original shop put in the new engine???

OP did you even confront them about how the sump works?
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      07-15-2019, 08:29 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5 Inline6 View Post
I hope NHTSA will understand number of cases building up. Then BMW NA may consider campaign, recall or extension of warranty period.
Has anyone filed a complaint? Their site never seems to work right lol...
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      07-16-2019, 06:56 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
Has anyone filed a complaint? Their site never seems to work right lol...
I may contact to a person who in NHTSA directly in case BMW donít take responsibilities for this matter. I donít want to use work relationship for private thing though.
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      07-29-2019, 08:06 AM   #37
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February 2017......my saga is eerily familiar...but my dealer stepped up and bought me a used motor.

They are full of it if they say they were were unaware.

My SA said they had heard of reports of this.



https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...0&postcount=34


"Two Mondays ago my 135i went in for an alignment after installing the M control arms and they found I needed an OFHG. I had found that during the CA install and had cleaned up all the oil and new oil had leaked in the 50 miles I drove.

The price was OK but high and I rationalized...."Hey let the pros do it....".

I had them do the repair and they must have allowed something into the oil system as 5 miles after picking car up motor seized up. RPMs just dropped to zero on an upshift.
SNIP

Working theory is something got dropped into the oil gallery and was distributed to the oil system unfiltered. Likely plugging an oil squirter or roaching the mains. The engine can only be turned with tools a half turn then binds up.

This PDF download was a great help in seeing what is fed by the OFHG....everything.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1303136356



The dealer has been OK so far.

At first they were sort of ...."well we put everything back together right. " and I said well you guys were the only one who could introduce foreign matter down stream of the filter and anyone would draw the conclusion that something got in the oil gallery. I asked them "How much grit can we drop into one of your cars on the lot down stream of the filter?......for me it would be whatever the filter would pass."

Then they were saying it had a non OEM bmw filter (Bosch), the oil was dark and JB4. So what?

The filter was intact and the JB4 has no control over oiling and it died in 35 mph traffic.

The oil was changed in september with BMW spec Castrol and there is a spare quart in the trunk.

Their own DINAN and PPK would do what the JB4 on map 1 would do. The car should be capable of sustained full throttle running for many laps around any race track... not die in traffic.

Still some unresolved issues but I am sure we can come to an agreement.

So far they are installing a motor from a wrecked car with similar mileage at no cost to me and providing a 1 year warranty on the engine. I am going to ask them to agree to 1 yr labor warranty.

I have an X3 loaner.

I am going to ask them for the old motor back unless there is a core. Going to make a wicked N55 block coffee table or rebuild it. Plus I want to salvage the injectors, coils and other pieces not exposed to contaminated oil.

I am not sure it is worth rebuilding but maybe it is and that might be compensation enough to have a spare motor in the garage.

What else am I missing?

I need to find out about the Vanos bolts on the new motor, check the clutch at 60K and replace while out of car at my cost, consider R&R the pan gasket (my cost) and (gulp) the OFHG...which they still have not refunded me the cost of come to think of it.

They say they can clean the oil coolers, lines and turbos and re-use. I figure with the warranty that would be fine.

What else would you change while engine out of car?

What other things am I missing?"



Car ran great after the repair. Smoother engine than the first one. Sold it on and it got wrecked when someone pulled out in front of them. RIP.

Happily moved back to 128i's.
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      07-29-2019, 08:27 AM   #38
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guslealisla Any updates? It's been a ong time since you last posted? Don't tell me, your shop is still working on your rebuild ?

Dack
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      08-27-2019, 09:53 PM   #39
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I hope folks learned dealerships are not the best place for a BMW to get worked on, very far from it in my many years/decades of experience. And when the engine gets opened up. It's open heart surgery, which is easy when prepared - cover the right things, do it right and methodically and all works out great. Get sloppy and treat it with disrespect and it'll be fine attitude, and a big nooope is incoming.
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      08-28-2019, 12:49 PM   #40
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I did mine last week, changed both gaskets, changed belt, oil change, primed oil filter and housing. Started for 5 minutes, turned off and later turned it on and its been driving fine.

It was taken apart for a week and I didn't do any oil priming steps.
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